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Khaleej Times
31-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Khaleej Times
Dressing real people makes couture beautiful, says designer Tarun Tahiliani
Couture is larger than life. But must it feel cumbersome? This is a question Indian designer Tarun Tahiliani addresses in his latest collection Quintessence, which was showcased in the recently concluded India Couture Week. Tahiliani, who completes 30 years in the fashion industry this year, has married traditional maximalism with contemporary silhouettes, and says his greatest joy is in styling for regular people whose joys, anxieties, fears, exuberance — all contribute to the aesthetic he's come to be known for. As his spectacular show at The Oberoi New Delhi, that itself is celebrating 60 years in the hospitality industry, won unanimous applause, he reflected on his legacy and the way forward for Indian fashion. Edited excerpts from an interview: It's been 30 years of Tarun Tahiliani. How do you encapsulate your journey of three decades? It's been an extraordinary journey of refining an aesthetic rooted in India yet global in spirit. What began as a desire to drape India in its own sensibility, with structure and lightness, has evolved into a body of work that I believe speaks of timeless elegance, quiet luxury, and emotion. Thirty years in, I feel we're still learning, still evolving — every collection is a new chapter, not a reinvention but a refinement of everything we've stood for. Has the aesthete in you often been at odds with the business mind? Of course — there's always a natural tension. The aesthete seeks purity, precision, and a kind of uncompromising idealism, while the business mind is grounded in pragmatism, timelines, and scalability. But over the years, I've realised that neither can exist in isolation. The challenge — and the beauty — lies in marrying the dream with structure, so that creativity doesn't just remain an idea, but becomes something that lives, breathes, and reaches people. How did an early exposure to understanding sportswear shape your idea of couture? That exposure taught me a lot about functionality, construction, and movement — which later became central to how I imagined modern couture. You could say my sensibility has always been about marrying drape with structure. Even in bridal or occasion wear, I wanted it to feel like a second skin, not a costume. That came from learning early on that clothes must serve the body, not imprison it. How has the evolution of the Indian wedding industry impacted the way we imagine couture? Weddings today are no longer just about pageantry — they are personal, curated, and often deeply emotional. With this shift, couture too has had to evolve. It's not just about spectacle anymore; it's about individuality, versatility, and wearability. Brides and grooms want to feel like themselves — beautiful, yes, but also comfortable, empowered, and modern. You recently told The Hollywood Reporter India that when it comes to bridal wear, "real glamour lies off-screen — in the people who live it, breathe it and pay for it". What is it about dressing real people that holds allure for you as a designer? Because that is where fashion lives and breathes — in reality. Dressing real people, understanding their stories, their anxieties, their joy — that's what makes couture meaningful. These aren't mannequins. They're individuals stepping into a new chapter, and it's a privilege to be part of that. That connection, that emotion — that's the real glamour. Quintessence captures the very heart of the Tarun Tahiliani aesthetic and design philosophy. What has really gone into it? Quintessence is not just a collection, it's a distillation — of everything I've believed in for three decades. It's where craft meets lightness, where heritage is reinterpreted with clarity and grace. It's about restraint rather than excess. Layered yet effortless. This collection carries the spirit of everything we've built: timeless, intimate, India Modern. In an era where more is more, Quintessence is focused on wearability as much as opulence. What does it take for you to strike a balance? It's about editing — always editing. You can have craft, but it must breathe. Embroidery must enhance, not overwhelm. We look at silhouettes, we consider movement, we ask: will the woman or man in this feel like themselves? Because true luxury isn't about being seen — it's about being felt. Cultural appropriation is the buzzword in fashion at the moment after we saw Prada not crediting Indian artisans, or India, for the famous Kolhapuris. You have been a passionate advocate of the design heritage and artisans who continue to uphold those traditions. What were your thoughts when you heard of the incident? Frankly, it's infuriating — but also not new. For too long, India has been the anonymous hand behind global luxury. We've been the invisible artisans. That must change. We need to protect our heritage, not just with IP laws but with pride and clarity. The world has appropriated for decades — it's time we assert ownership and celebrate our craftspeople as the true treasures they are. Social media is the new site of fashion and influencers are increasingly setting the agenda for a younger generation. Is there a danger of dilution of the understanding of a design aesthetic when that happens? There is a danger when attention spans shorten and nuance gets lost. But it also depends on how you use it. Social media is a powerful tool — it can educate, inspire, and democratise fashion. The onus is on designers and creators to go beyond just visuals, and tell stories — about craft, process, and intention. Because that's where longevity lies. After three decades, what lies ahead for the Tarun Tahiliani brand? This is a moment of both reflection and renewed ambition. As a brand, we're looking to scale our presence — to reach new audiences while staying true to the essence of India Modern. The idea is not just to grow, but to deepen: to refine our couture further, to continue elevating craftsmanship, and to build on the foundation we've created. With OTT by TarunTahiliani, we've opened a new chapter — a more accessible, contemporary expression of our design philosophy. It's an exciting time where each vertical — couture, bridal, menswear, accessories, and now OTT — speaks to a different facet of the same story: everyday luxury rooted in heritage, worn with lightness, and made for how people truly live today.
NDTV
27-07-2025
- Entertainment
- NDTV
NDTV Exclusive: Tarun Tahiliani Says, "Hindus Did Beautiful Textiles, Islam Brought Embroidery And The British Brought Tailoring"
Designer Tarun Tahiliani, who has marked 30 years in the fashion industry celebrated this milestone with a hallmark show case, Quintessence that was nothing but an ode to India and its legacy of couture. The extravagant fashion show was held at The Oberoi, New Delhi on Saturday, July 26, 2025, which was day 4 of the ongoing Hyundai Indian Couture Week 2025. The made in India for a modern India themed couture show was an intimate gathering to celebrate craft, culture and couture. It saw beauty moful Shahnaz Husain among other leading names in attendance. What's more, the finale of the show featured models walking to Alisha Chinai's hit pop song, Made In India that left the audience grooving too. View this post on Instagram A post shared by FDCI (@fdciofficial) Speaking to NDTV exclusively post the show Tarun Tahiliani said, "The collection was very opulent and rich in craft, but understated at the same time." View this post on Instagram A post shared by FDCI (@fdciofficial) Speaking of the focus on artisanship, especially now on a global level and how it can be promoted. Tarun Tahiliani said, "So our fashion did not exist in the western way. It was textile, embroidery and was handmade, whether it is Bandhani, Chikankari or Mukaish and all the weaves. Because suddenly we are becoming so western, it lost relevance. But the job of us designers is to revive it and we as Indians love it." View this post on Instagram A post shared by FDCI (@fdciofficial) He further said, "It is my big endeavour, where we want to be modern and live in the moment, but we also have to respect our heritage. The motto my company is 'All that we were and more'. So I always say Hindus did beautiful textile, Islam brought embroidery, the British brought tailoring; and our generation mixes it all together. That is the process of evolution, the more you do, the more you learn, the more you can do. And it becomes more relevant, in a way." View this post on Instagram A post shared by FDCI (@fdciofficial) Since Tarun Tahiliani's couture label is celebrating 30 glorious years in the industry this year. The stalwart designer gave witty and positive response to where does he see himself in the next 30 years to come. "I will still be here doing the same thing, but on a trampoline this time I hope."
News18
27-07-2025
- Entertainment
- News18
Tarun Tahiliani's ‘Quintessence': A Salon-Style Ode To Craft, Clarity, And The Evolved Bride
Tarun Tahiliani's Quintessence is a poetic ode to couture that celebrates craft, clarity, and the evolving Indian bride. In the hushed elegance of The Oberoi's ballroom, imbued with the scent of fresh mogra and the soft refrains of live jazz, classical, and Indian instrumentals, Tarun Tahiliani unveiled 'Quintessence', his latest couture collection at India Couture Week 2025. Far from a typical runway spectacle, the designer chose an intimate salon-style presentation, where models meandered gracefully between seated guests, allowing the garments to be appreciated up close. It was a conscious nod to the original Parisian couture salons reimagined in the heart of Delhi, as Tahiliani marked 30 years in fashion, celebrating craftsmanship not with grandeur, but with intimacy, precision, and poetic restraint. Quintessence is exactly what the name suggests the most distilled essence of the designer's aesthetic vocabulary. Across 95 couture looks, the collection told a quiet, deeply layered story of India's heritage, interpreted through the lens of movement, modernity, and memory. The craftsmanship spoke in fluent whispers: fine chikankari, soft resham, delicate kasheedakari, shaded threadwork, intricate jaali, and whisper-light zardozi embroidery adorned panels of tulle, satin organza, lace, and bandhini. The silhouettes ranging from breezy panelled kalidars and concept saris to structured corsets, layered jackets, and fluid lehengas were designed with the contemporary bride in mind: one who values both comfort and couture. Sculpted yet effortless, each ensemble allowed for breath, movement, and expression. The palette unfolded like a sunrise beginning in notes of ivory, beige, and soft gold, then blooming into misty rose, almond, blush, and romantic pinks, finally culminating in deeper reds. Every hue felt deliberate, never overpowering. At the heart of the showcase was a profound sense of lightness not just in the physical weight of the garments, but in their spirit. There were no exaggerated flounces or heavy embellishments. Instead, pearls, crystals, resham threads, and abstract floral motifs were applied with intention. Further enriching the experience was a stunning collaboration with de Gournay, renowned for their hand-painted wallcoverings. For the show, they created a bespoke series of panels titled 'Early Views of India', painted on Ivory Indian Tea Paper, which transformed the ballroom into a living canvas of India's visual past. One of these paintings was also translated into a one-of-a-kind couture jacket, where decorative art and fashion converged in a single, breathtaking moment. More than just a collection, Quintessence is a mirror of Tarun himself 'deeply Indian, constantly evolving, thinking in English, dreaming in chikankari." It represents a shift, not a severance. A reimagining of bridalwear for a generation that seeks presence over pretense, lightness over legacy. The collaboration with The Oberoi, New Delhi, celebrating its 60th year, added yet another layer of legacy to the presentation. With its architectural poise and timeless energy, the hotel served not just as venue, but as muse mirroring the collection's calm, refined, and elemental beauty. In a couture landscape often dominated by spectacle, Quintessence chose a different kind of power: quiet, intelligent, exquisitely detailed. It's a collection that doesn't shout for attention, it simply holds it. view comments Location : New Delhi, India, India First Published: July 27, 2025, 11:14 IST Disclaimer: Comments reflect users' views, not News18's. Please keep discussions respectful and constructive. Abusive, defamatory, or illegal comments will be removed. News18 may disable any comment at its discretion. By posting, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.
The Hindu
27-07-2025
- Entertainment
- The Hindu
Tarun Tahiliani's collection at India Couture Week 2025
Within the elegant confines of the Oberoi's ballroom, under the soft glow of lights and the scent of fresh mogra, 95 looks — rich with chikankari, resham, kasheedakari, shaded threadwork, jaali, and zardozi — narrate the story of artisanal techniques. Tarun Tahiliani's collection Quintessence, showcased as part of India Couture Week, is a quiet celebration of craft — textile, form, and finish. Strains of the piano, saxophone, cello, and drums fill the hall as models meander across the different seating areas. The music segues into jazz, classical, Indian and soft rock even, in a way that is symbolic of the diverse moods of today's bride. The silhouettes — in tulle, lace, satin organza, and bandhini — include lehengas, panelled kalidars, concept saris, layered jackets, and structured corsets, created keeping in mind movement, grace, and lightness. The colour palette starts off mellow with subtle shades of ivory, beige and soft gold and graduates to misty rose, blush, almond, pinks and then to reds. For this presentation, the designer chose to ditch the usual runway and do a salon-style viewing. The salon is a kind of runway — just more intimate, says Tarun. 'Couture, by nature, is incredibly detailed. Even I'm often stunned when I see how many thousands of hours go into a single garment,' he says. To honour this craftsmanship, he wanted people to experience the pieces up close, like the original Parisian couture salons where models walked between seated guests. 'Back then, it was about silhouettes. For us, it's about silhouette and the mastery of embroidery — something I believe no one in the world does quite like India. With the subdued colour palette in Quintessence, you need to get close to truly see the finesse,' explains Tarun. The garments teem with delicate florals, abstract foliage, and reimagined Mughal motifs. This collection, in some way, is a reflection of who Tarun is — 'deeply Indian, constantly evolving, thinking in English, dreaming in chikankari'. Quintessence is light and devoid of excesses. It takes a step back from heavy bridal wear. It's an evolution, not a rejection of tradition, Tarun clarifies. Brides today are choosing individuality over convention. They want to own who they are on their big day, not be weighed down by what they're 'supposed' to wear. The market is shifting too and this stems from women becoming more emancipated, educated, and expressive. They want wedding clothes that reflect them, not just societal expectation, he says. The wedding market now has a lot of Gen Z brides. This generation is known to be starkly different from the previous generations of millennials, Gen X, etc. Does the designer take a different approach while designing for them? 'I don't design for generations — I design for now. And 'now' is fluid,' says Tarun, adding, 'Gen Z brides are confident, self-aware, and experimental, but that doesn't mean we discard tradition. Rather, we reinterpret it — like a farshi skirt reimagined as a pleated wrap or chikankari on modern corsetry.' He approaches it by understanding the intention of the bride/groom. Whether someone is seeking minimalism or maximalism, Tarun offers tools to express that identity through cut, fabric, and detail. 'The only rule is authenticity,' he adds. For this show, Tarun once again chose to disperse with the concept of a celebrity showstopper. This goes with his firm belief that clothes must be the showstopper. He says, 'I've said it time and again — craft, karigar, construction: that's the real star. Let the work speak.'
News18
26-07-2025
- Entertainment
- News18
Tarun Tahiliani: Couture Absolutely Needs Reinvention, But Reinvention That Honours Its Roots
Marking 30 years of Tarun Tahiliani, the couture and bridal collection, Quintessence, will be presented at India Couture Week 2025. Marking 30 years of Tarun Tahiliani's journey in the world of couture is not just a celebration but a gift that keeps on giving. Tarun Tahiliani is the Quintessence of Indian modernity, and the couture czar is all set to celebrate it on the runway at the Hyundai India Couture Week 2025. The couture and bridal collection, Quintessence, reimagines India's rich heritage through a modern lens — refined, soulful, and deeply personal. It is made for the bride who wants to feel light, present, and entirely herself. 30 years of redefining couture. What is Tarun Tahiliani the Quintessence of… At its heart, I'd say Tarun Tahiliani is the Quintessence of India Modern—where heritage techniques meet contemporary structure, where drape meets precision, and where comfort meets couture. Over the past three decades, we've built a language of refined opulence—where every detail is intentional, every silhouette allows movement, and the wearer always feels like the most elevated version of themselves. Quintessence is the merging of technique and experience, culminating in dreams. How has your design aesthetic evolved over the years, and does this collection mirror your journey? It's been an ongoing process of refinement. When I began, I was fascinated by structure, by pattern-making, by how Indian textiles could be tailored in a more international idiom. But with time, I realised that true luxury is about ease—about how something feels when it's worn, not just how it looks. The aesthetic has become lighter, quieter, and more nuanced. Quintessence is very much a mirror of that journey. It reflects where we are now—clear in identity, anchored in craft, but with a certain softness and intimacy that comes only with time. Tarun Tahiliani's creations have always reimagined India's heritage through a contemporary lens. Does couture need reinvention to stay relevant? Couture absolutely needs reinvention—but reinvention that honours its roots. We are custodians of a living heritage, and if we want it to resonate with a modern audience, we must evolve how we present it. That means using traditional techniques in lighter ways, designing for real movement, and understanding how today's bride or groom lives, travels, and celebrates. For me, reinvention isn't about turning away from the past—it's about making it meaningful in the present. Where do you draw inspiration from when you sit down to ideate for a new collection? It always starts with the body—with how a garment will move and feel on someone. Then comes the craft—the hand, the detail, the finesse of our karigars. Architecture often informs proportion and silhouette; miniature paintings inspire palette and embellishment. But most of all, inspiration comes from observing people—the modern Indian, deeply rooted yet fully global, who wants to express both tradition and individuality. Every collection is a response to that evolving identity. The part you are most proud of in this collection and what makes it special. What makes Quintessence truly special is its quiet clarity. There's a restraint to it—a confidence in not overdoing, in letting the craft breathe. I'm proud of how light the garments feel, how beautifully they move, and how intricately they're made, while still holding that emotional resonance. These are pieces that don't shout—but they stay with you. And ultimately, that's what I believe couture should do: hold memory, emotion, and craftsmanship, all in one timeless frame. Celebrate the spirit of Tarun Tahiliani Couture and Bridal Wear at Hyundai India Couture Week 2025 in association with Reliance Brands, a Fashion Design Council of India initiative on July 26, 2025, at The Oberoi, New Delhi. Location : Delhi, India, India First Published: July 26, 2025, 12:51 IST News lifestyle Tarun Tahiliani: Couture Absolutely Needs Reinvention, But Reinvention That Honours Its Roots Disclaimer: Comments reflect users' views, not News18's. Please keep discussions respectful and constructive. Abusive, defamatory, or illegal comments will be removed. News18 may disable any comment at its discretion. By posting, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.
