Tarun Tahiliani's ‘Quintessence': A Salon-Style Ode To Craft, Clarity, And The Evolved Bride
In the hushed elegance of The Oberoi's ballroom, imbued with the scent of fresh mogra and the soft refrains of live jazz, classical, and Indian instrumentals, Tarun Tahiliani unveiled 'Quintessence', his latest couture collection at India Couture Week 2025.
Far from a typical runway spectacle, the designer chose an intimate salon-style presentation, where models meandered gracefully between seated guests, allowing the garments to be appreciated up close. It was a conscious nod to the original Parisian couture salons reimagined in the heart of Delhi, as Tahiliani marked 30 years in fashion, celebrating craftsmanship not with grandeur, but with intimacy, precision, and poetic restraint.
Quintessence is exactly what the name suggests the most distilled essence of the designer's aesthetic vocabulary. Across 95 couture looks, the collection told a quiet, deeply layered story of India's heritage, interpreted through the lens of movement, modernity, and memory.
The craftsmanship spoke in fluent whispers: fine chikankari, soft resham, delicate kasheedakari, shaded threadwork, intricate jaali, and whisper-light zardozi embroidery adorned panels of tulle, satin organza, lace, and bandhini. The silhouettes ranging from breezy panelled kalidars and concept saris to structured corsets, layered jackets, and fluid lehengas were designed with the contemporary bride in mind: one who values both comfort and couture. Sculpted yet effortless, each ensemble allowed for breath, movement, and expression.
The palette unfolded like a sunrise beginning in notes of ivory, beige, and soft gold, then blooming into misty rose, almond, blush, and romantic pinks, finally culminating in deeper reds. Every hue felt deliberate, never overpowering.
At the heart of the showcase was a profound sense of lightness not just in the physical weight of the garments, but in their spirit. There were no exaggerated flounces or heavy embellishments. Instead, pearls, crystals, resham threads, and abstract floral motifs were applied with intention.
Further enriching the experience was a stunning collaboration with de Gournay, renowned for their hand-painted wallcoverings. For the show, they created a bespoke series of panels titled 'Early Views of India', painted on Ivory Indian Tea Paper, which transformed the ballroom into a living canvas of India's visual past. One of these paintings was also translated into a one-of-a-kind couture jacket, where decorative art and fashion converged in a single, breathtaking moment.
More than just a collection, Quintessence is a mirror of Tarun himself 'deeply Indian, constantly evolving, thinking in English, dreaming in chikankari." It represents a shift, not a severance. A reimagining of bridalwear for a generation that seeks presence over pretense, lightness over legacy.
The collaboration with The Oberoi, New Delhi, celebrating its 60th year, added yet another layer of legacy to the presentation. With its architectural poise and timeless energy, the hotel served not just as venue, but as muse mirroring the collection's calm, refined, and elemental beauty.
In a couture landscape often dominated by spectacle, Quintessence chose a different kind of power: quiet, intelligent, exquisitely detailed. It's a collection that doesn't shout for attention, it simply holds it.
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July 27, 2025, 11:14 IST
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