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Time of India
18-07-2025
- General
- Time of India
Cooking with mangoes: Aam's the khaas ingredient in desi kitchens
From tenderisers in meat curries to desserts, comforting dals, pickles and chutneys that pack summer in a jar From intensely sweet and floral alphonso and kesars to tangy varieties like totapuri and langda, Indian mangoes span a wide flavour profile. They stir senses, spark nostalgia and find a special place in the Indian regional kitchens. Just as their taste and texture vary, so do their culinary uses, with every region giving the fruit its distinctive twist – from tenderisers in meat curries to desserts, comforting dals, pickles and chutneys that pack summer in a jar. Adding a tang with kachcha aam Raw mangoes, prized for their tartness, are a common thread in regional Indian cuisines, used to add freshness, tang and complexity to savoury dishes. Mamadikaya pulihora A summer favourite in Andhra Pradesh, mamidikaya pulihora is a tangy rice dish made with grated raw mango, tempered with mustard seeds, curry leaves and green chilies. Mamadikaya pulihora (Pic: @chefreetuudaykugaji) C hef Sadaf Hussain, who curated a mango-inspired menu for a recent Bazm-e-Aam event, says, 'There's no other fruit that offers such versatility, from raw to ripe.' His regional spread featured dishes like Gujarat's ras no fajeto, Manipur's heinou metpa, Andhra's mamidikaya pulihora (mango rice), Bihar's aam ka koocha, and Rajasthan's kachche aam ki kheer - all celebrating mangoes across India's culinary map. ' Mango preserves Mango preserves are a part of many culinary cultures. Be it aam ki launji, galka or gudamba, raw mangoes are used to make sweet-spicy jams across the country. About the culinary use of mangoes in Bihar, chef Nishant Choubey, says, 'Gudamba is a chutney-like preparation made from raw mangoes, jaggery and red chillies. It is a mix of sweet and sour with a hint of heat.' The jam-like galka, made with raw mangoes and sugar or jaggery, is a Lakhnawi household favourite, says chef Taiyaba Ali. Green mangoes are indispensable in Bengali kitchens (Pic: @samitacuriouscook_) Aam bata In Bengali cuisine, aam bata is a traditional raw mango mash or paste, typically made in the summer. It is prepared by boiling or roasting green mangoes, then mashing them with mustard oil, salt and green chillies. Aam bata (Pic: @samitacuriouscook) Achraj Achraj is a traditional minced-mutton dish of the Awadhi cuisine. It blends finely minced goat meat cooked in aromatic spices and enriched with raw mango, added towards the end for a sharp, tangy finish. In the Awadhi cuisine, chef and writer Taiyaba Ali notes that raw mango is used not just for its flavour but as a tenderiser. 'One will see raw mango being cooked with meat, like in Achraj, a qeema and aam dish.' In her recently curated seven-course mango-forward dining experience, Aam Baat, the chef featured a mix of traditional dishes inspired by home-cooked Awadhi food with a twist, like acharaj pulao. Achraj, prepared by chef Sadaf Hussain as a part of a five-course mango-forward dinner Indulgence with the sweet ripe side If raw mango adds tartness, ripe mango is all about indulgence. Chef Ashish Bhasin reflects on how mango is deeply rooted in the Indian food psyche 'Unlike fruits introduced through invasions, mango is truly ours. Ripe mangoes lend a natural sweetness. Balanced with spices, they create flavours that are deeply Punjabi. Fajeto Fajeto is a Gujarati kadhi where the puree of ripe mangoes meets whisked curd and besan. It is slow-cooked with ginger, green chillies, and spices and topped with a generous ghee tempering of mustard, cumin, fenugreek, cinnamon and dry red chilli. Fajeto (Pic: @chefreetuudaykugaji) Aamras Aamras is a silky mango puree made from ripe mangoes, typically flavoured with cardamom or saffron. 'Popular in Maharashtra and Gujarat, it's often served chilled with puris as a summer delicacy. Aamras (Pic: @chefreetuudaykugaji) The mango seed acts as a preservative for aamras and prevents enzymatic browning or oxidation when aamras comes in contact with the oxygen in the air,' shares culinary consultant Reetu Kugaji, adding, 'The natural balance of sugar and acidity in mangoes, along with its ability to absorb spices, makes them ideal for traditional sweets like aamras, aamrakhand or mambazha payasam' Mambazha pulissery In Kerala, the sweet side of mangoes is showcased in dishes like pulissery, a yoghurt-based curry, where the fruit imparts richness while the yoghurt provides tang. 'It's a balance of sweet and sour that defines summer meals in the south,' adds chef Rakesh Raghunathan. Mambazha pulissery (Pic: @_usha_mathew_) Amrakhand Amrakhand, a delicious blend of ripe mango pulp and creamy hung curd, enhanced with sugar, cardamom and saffron. Enriched with blanched charoli seeds, pistachios, almonds; amrakhand is a chilled, fragrant indulgence that captures the soul of Maharashtrian and Gujarati summers Amrakhand (Pic: @chefreetuudaykugaji) Mango leather The chewy, sun-dried slices of mango takes on different names across India. It's known as aam papad in the North, mamidi tandra in Andhra Pradesh, amba poli in Maharashtra and aam sotto in Bengal. Usually made with ripe mango pulp sweetened with sugar or jaggery, some regional recipes add a bit of raw mango for a tangy twist. In Bengali cuisine, too, ripe mangoes shine in festive fare. 'We make payesh (rice pudding), doi (mango-infused curd), sandesh, sotto (aam papad) and even enjoy ripe mango with boiled rice,' says Samita Haldar. Mango leather (@msaggarwal)
New Indian Express
20-06-2025
- Entertainment
- New Indian Express
Romancing the Mango: Chef Sadaf Hussain's mango-centric dinner at Bazm-e-Aam celebrates India's beloved fruit
As monsoon clouds begin to hover over the capital, summer is slowly retreating. Despite the scorch of the past few weeks, there's one thing Delhiites still await with childlike anticipation: mangoes. From Alphonso and Banginapalli (Safeda) to blushing Raspuri, mangoes arrive across India like edible postcards of summer. But beyond fragrance and flavour, mango season tugs at childhood memories — of climbing trees and grandparents waiting with plates full of mango slices dipped in salt, chilli, and oil. To celebrate this nostalgia, Delhi-based Kashkol Collective's Bazm-e-Aam at IIC, offered an evening of poetry, dastangoi, music, and a mango feast curated by chef and author Sadaf Hussain. 'Everyone has a childhood memory with mango,' says Hussain. For him, summers meant endless mangoes at his grandparents' home in Sasaram, Bihar. He recalls eating mango mixed with rice and dal — a combo that reminded him of Thailand's mango sticky rice, 'but desi-style, though I didn't love it,' he laughs.
Time of India
16-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Time of India
Ek shaam, aam ke naam
At Bazm-e-Aam, Shivangini Yeashu Yuvraj, Isha Priya Singh, Ishan Sharma, and Archit Anand, Dholak Rani presented traditional folk songs as an ode to the desi summer (Pic: @kashkolcollective) Har desi dil mein aam ek khas jagah rakhte hain - and this love brought many mango lovers to Bazm-e-Aam, an evening dedicated to the memories, metaphors and magic of the mango. Curated by Kashkol Collective, the evening at IIC had chroniclers, chefs, artists in attendance, who sliced the mango in lyrical, poetic, musical and culinary ways. "Mango is a subject that unites us all. Everyone has a story, connection, memory related to mangoes. Bazm-e-Aam has been organised with an idea to start a tradition of an annual aam ki daawat in Delhi," said Ambreen Shah, founder, Kashkol Collective, an initiative dedicated to fostering artistic collaboration. Kashkol Collective founders Ambreen Shah and Ashhar Haque Tasting tradition through tales, sonic experience and food Bazm-e-aam began with a qissa-e-amba, performed by Ashhar Haque - tracing how the mango sparked conversations but also rivalries, inspired poetry and imagination, and continues to be used as a metaphor and a muse in our culture. Sohail Hashmi in conversation with Sopan Joshi, author of Mangifera Indica: A Biography of the Mango "This event is a starting point to talking about the mango. From the design of the paisley that was inspired by the mango to the use of mango wood in havans, mango is one fruit that grows all over the country and so the connection with mango operates in so many ways and layers," says geographer Sohail Hashmi, who was in conversation with Sopan Joshi (independent journalist and author of Mangifera Indica: A Biography of the Mango), as a part of the event. by Taboola by Taboola Sponsored Links Sponsored Links Promoted Links Promoted Links You May Like Free Chess. No Ads. Just Fun Play Classic Chess Install Now Undo Blending songs and storytelling, the Dholak Rani Ensemble gave the audience a chance to sway to melodies celebrating the spirit of summers in India. Shivangini Yeashu Yuvraj (L), Isha Priya Singh (R) presented traditional folk songs that capture the rhythms, moods, and memories of the Indian summer Historian Eshan Sharma & chef and author Sadaf Hussain Chef Sadaf Hussain showcased the versatility of mangoes through his mango-forward menu, featuring ramkela and malda varieties. The menu was a vibrant celebration of mango flavours from across regional kitchens, with dishes like Gujarat's ras no fajeto, Manipur's heinou metpa, Andhra's mamidikaya pulihora, Bihar's aam ka koocha, and Rajasthan's kachche aam ki kheer. "I wanted Delhi's mango lovers to taste dishes that were popular in regional kitchens. I don't think any other fruit offers as much versatility as mangoes, from raw to ripe," said Sadaf. Chef Sadaf Hussain's five-course dining menu was all dishes mango KN Shrivastava, Director, IIC and Salman Khurshid Chef Gunjan Goela and culinary chronicler Pushpesh Pant
Hindustan Times
07-06-2025
- General
- Hindustan Times
Chefs from across India share traditional Bakrid food varieties that date back many years
On Eid-ul-Adha, popularly known as Bakrid, chefs and food historians about the traditional delectable delicacies prepared across India. Fresh kaleji: Bihar, Jharkhand For Chef and food historian Sadaf Hussain, the celebration of Eid begins with a heartwarming home tradition. 'First, let's talk about the basics — qurbani meat is divided into three portions: one for the needy, one for relatives and friends, and one for the family. It's distributed without choice,' he explains. Hailing from Ranchi (Jharkhand), he shares his fondest food memories: 'The first thing that comes after qurbani is the liver, kidney, and heart. These are prepared first thing in the morning by the ladies of the family in three ways: thin gravy, thick gravy, and dry. My ammi makes amazing bhuni kaleji — a little spicy — served with thikona paratha.' And the one dish that makes every festive table complete? 'My second most favourite item, dahi bada or phulki. It's prepared on all festivals— Holi, Diwali, Christmas, Eid — you'll find it everywhere across religions. Kebabs, biryani, or korma comes later,' he ends. Mince wonder: Delhi, Kashmir, and Awadh 'Growing up watching my father prepare Bakrid delicacies, the first thing that comes to my mind is keema,' says chef Ishtiyaque Qureshi, founder of Qureshi Dampukht, who trained under his father, the legendary chief Padma Shri Imtiaz Qureshi. 'In Lucknow, it's kate masale ka keema, in Delhi it becomes kofta salan, and in Kashmir, my favourite is Goshtaba, prepared in white gravy,' he says. Calling kate masale ka keema outstanding and unique, the chef explains, 'The most important thing is that it is fresh keema. It's cooked in mild ghee (as it has lots of fat), with onion, garlic, ginger, chopped chillies, a little tomato, and no masala at all. Trust me, it's heavenly. Even without masala, it bursts with flavour and is eaten with plain rice. Family and guests both love it. I recently served it at an elite gathering in Delhi and it was the most loved dish on the table.' Rampuri Qurbani Korma: Rampur This rich mutton curry, once prepared in the kitchens of the Rampur royals, is still an essential part of Eid dinners in the erstwhile riyasat 'My great-grandfather worked in the royal kitchen, and during Eid-ul-Adha, this was always a regional speciality,' says chef Mujeebur Rehman, who has been reviving Rampuri cuisine for over two decades with partner chef Abdul Haleem. Unlike the Mughlai or Awadhi kormas, this dish uses put (spine portion) and seena (lamb breast) instead of nali. 'Three types of onion pastes — mild white, golden fried, and brown — go in. Itra (essence) and nuts (cashews and chirongi) aren't used, but star anise is an important ingredient. It's cooked in pure ghee and, since it's qurbani mutton, it's rich in natural fats,' he informs, adding, 'It's no longer a Nawabi dish, though. Several households still prepare it on Bakrid.' Mutanjan: Lucknow 'A dessert with mild sweetness and a hint of salt, somewhat like a savoury, this is a very Bakrid-specific dish developed in the Nawabi kitchens of Awadh where, for the first time, a dessert was prepared with mutton,' says Mohsin Qureshi, executive chef at Saraca Hotels, Lucknow. 'Mutanjan is a well-known delicacy, but now confined to traditional families who prepare it on Bakrid,' he adds, noting how it rarely appears on hotel menus and is mostly seen at food festivals or family weddings. Talking about its specialty, he explains: 'Sweet and salty rice are prepared separately and layered. Small boneless crushed mutton pieces, biryani-type yakni, are folded into the dish. The good thing is that its sweetness is very mild. For commoners, it's a mix of zarda and biryani. Rice, mutton, salt, ghee, spices, and a bit of khoya are the main ingredients.'
Indian Express
05-05-2025
- General
- Indian Express
Meet Pantua, the Bengali cousin of Gulab Jamun
The soft and syrup-soaked Pantua is symptomatic of the Bengali palate's innate love for sweetness. But more than being a rich dessert, it's also a nostalgic bite of history, still served during pujo, Bengali weddings, and celebrations. Although often compared to the more widely known Gulab Jamun, Pantua is distinct in its own right, explained food historian and chef Sadaf Hussain, due to the ingredients used and its preparation method. The origins of Pantua can be traced back to the 12th-century Sanskrit text Manasollasa, compiled by King Someshvara III, which mentions a sweet resembling modern-day Pantua, Hussain explained. This early version was made from rice flour and cottage cheese, deep-fried in ghee, and then soaked in sugar syrup. Over time, the recipe evolved, with wheat flour replacing rice flour in Bengal, leading to the Pantua we know today. The term 'Pantua' is believed to have linguistic roots in Bengali. Some scholars suggest it derives from 'Panitua' or 'Panitoba,' with 'toba' meaning 'to sink,' referencing the sweets' tendency to settle at the bottom of the syrup. Pantua vs Gulab Jamun: What is the difference? Unlike gulab jamun, which is typically made from khoya (dried whole milk), pantua is made from chhena (fresh, moist curdled milk) and semolina, giving it a distinct texture and flavour, Hussain explained. Additionally, Pantua is darker in colour and has a more caramelised flavour with a dense texture, while gulab jamun is typically lighter and soaked in a more delicate syrup and has a spongy texture as it is hollow on the inside. The dessert symbolises festivity and joy in Bengal, often served during significant occasions, he explained. Gulab jamun and Pantua are not the same (Source: Getty Images/Thinkstock) How is Pantua prepared? The process of making Pantua involves kneading chhena and semolina into a smooth dough, which is then shaped into small, round balls. Hussain explained that these balls are then deep-fried until they attain a rich, dark brown colour. The frying process gives Pantua a slightly crispy exterior, while the inside remains soft and moist. After frying, the Pantuas are soaked in a sugar syrup flavoured with cardamom, rose water, or saffron, which allows them to absorb the sweetness and aroma, making them incredibly flavourful. What are the varieties of Pantua? Over time, various regional and household variations of Pantua have emerged. Some newer versions use a filling of nuts or dried fruits, while others may incorporate flavors like saffron or rose essence into the syrup. Another popular variant is the 'Ledikeni,' a cylindrical version of Pantua named after Lady Canning, the wife of the Governor-General of India during British rule. However, the most famous is the traditional version of Pantua, which comes from Sirajganj in Bengal, Hussain said, and doesn't have a hollow centre. For those looking to explore Bengali cuisine or simply indulge in a delightful dessert, Pantua is a must-try. Its deep-rooted history and irresistible taste make it a timeless classic in the world of Indian sweets.
