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Hindustan Times
a day ago
- General
- Hindustan Times
Chefs from across India share traditional Bakrid food varieties that date back many years
On Eid-ul-Adha, popularly known as Bakrid, chefs and food historians about the traditional delectable delicacies prepared across India. Fresh kaleji: Bihar, Jharkhand For Chef and food historian Sadaf Hussain, the celebration of Eid begins with a heartwarming home tradition. 'First, let's talk about the basics — qurbani meat is divided into three portions: one for the needy, one for relatives and friends, and one for the family. It's distributed without choice,' he explains. Hailing from Ranchi (Jharkhand), he shares his fondest food memories: 'The first thing that comes after qurbani is the liver, kidney, and heart. These are prepared first thing in the morning by the ladies of the family in three ways: thin gravy, thick gravy, and dry. My ammi makes amazing bhuni kaleji — a little spicy — served with thikona paratha.' And the one dish that makes every festive table complete? 'My second most favourite item, dahi bada or phulki. It's prepared on all festivals— Holi, Diwali, Christmas, Eid — you'll find it everywhere across religions. Kebabs, biryani, or korma comes later,' he ends. Mince wonder: Delhi, Kashmir, and Awadh 'Growing up watching my father prepare Bakrid delicacies, the first thing that comes to my mind is keema,' says chef Ishtiyaque Qureshi, founder of Qureshi Dampukht, who trained under his father, the legendary chief Padma Shri Imtiaz Qureshi. 'In Lucknow, it's kate masale ka keema, in Delhi it becomes kofta salan, and in Kashmir, my favourite is Goshtaba, prepared in white gravy,' he says. Calling kate masale ka keema outstanding and unique, the chef explains, 'The most important thing is that it is fresh keema. It's cooked in mild ghee (as it has lots of fat), with onion, garlic, ginger, chopped chillies, a little tomato, and no masala at all. Trust me, it's heavenly. Even without masala, it bursts with flavour and is eaten with plain rice. Family and guests both love it. I recently served it at an elite gathering in Delhi and it was the most loved dish on the table.' Rampuri Qurbani Korma: Rampur This rich mutton curry, once prepared in the kitchens of the Rampur royals, is still an essential part of Eid dinners in the erstwhile riyasat 'My great-grandfather worked in the royal kitchen, and during Eid-ul-Adha, this was always a regional speciality,' says chef Mujeebur Rehman, who has been reviving Rampuri cuisine for over two decades with partner chef Abdul Haleem. Unlike the Mughlai or Awadhi kormas, this dish uses put (spine portion) and seena (lamb breast) instead of nali. 'Three types of onion pastes — mild white, golden fried, and brown — go in. Itra (essence) and nuts (cashews and chirongi) aren't used, but star anise is an important ingredient. It's cooked in pure ghee and, since it's qurbani mutton, it's rich in natural fats,' he informs, adding, 'It's no longer a Nawabi dish, though. Several households still prepare it on Bakrid.' Mutanjan: Lucknow 'A dessert with mild sweetness and a hint of salt, somewhat like a savoury, this is a very Bakrid-specific dish developed in the Nawabi kitchens of Awadh where, for the first time, a dessert was prepared with mutton,' says Mohsin Qureshi, executive chef at Saraca Hotels, Lucknow. 'Mutanjan is a well-known delicacy, but now confined to traditional families who prepare it on Bakrid,' he adds, noting how it rarely appears on hotel menus and is mostly seen at food festivals or family weddings. Talking about its specialty, he explains: 'Sweet and salty rice are prepared separately and layered. Small boneless crushed mutton pieces, biryani-type yakni, are folded into the dish. The good thing is that its sweetness is very mild. For commoners, it's a mix of zarda and biryani. Rice, mutton, salt, ghee, spices, and a bit of khoya are the main ingredients.'
Indian Express
05-05-2025
- General
- Indian Express
Meet Pantua, the Bengali cousin of Gulab Jamun
The soft and syrup-soaked Pantua is symptomatic of the Bengali palate's innate love for sweetness. But more than being a rich dessert, it's also a nostalgic bite of history, still served during pujo, Bengali weddings, and celebrations. Although often compared to the more widely known Gulab Jamun, Pantua is distinct in its own right, explained food historian and chef Sadaf Hussain, due to the ingredients used and its preparation method. The origins of Pantua can be traced back to the 12th-century Sanskrit text Manasollasa, compiled by King Someshvara III, which mentions a sweet resembling modern-day Pantua, Hussain explained. This early version was made from rice flour and cottage cheese, deep-fried in ghee, and then soaked in sugar syrup. Over time, the recipe evolved, with wheat flour replacing rice flour in Bengal, leading to the Pantua we know today. The term 'Pantua' is believed to have linguistic roots in Bengali. Some scholars suggest it derives from 'Panitua' or 'Panitoba,' with 'toba' meaning 'to sink,' referencing the sweets' tendency to settle at the bottom of the syrup. Pantua vs Gulab Jamun: What is the difference? Unlike gulab jamun, which is typically made from khoya (dried whole milk), pantua is made from chhena (fresh, moist curdled milk) and semolina, giving it a distinct texture and flavour, Hussain explained. Additionally, Pantua is darker in colour and has a more caramelised flavour with a dense texture, while gulab jamun is typically lighter and soaked in a more delicate syrup and has a spongy texture as it is hollow on the inside. The dessert symbolises festivity and joy in Bengal, often served during significant occasions, he explained. Gulab jamun and Pantua are not the same (Source: Getty Images/Thinkstock) How is Pantua prepared? The process of making Pantua involves kneading chhena and semolina into a smooth dough, which is then shaped into small, round balls. Hussain explained that these balls are then deep-fried until they attain a rich, dark brown colour. The frying process gives Pantua a slightly crispy exterior, while the inside remains soft and moist. After frying, the Pantuas are soaked in a sugar syrup flavoured with cardamom, rose water, or saffron, which allows them to absorb the sweetness and aroma, making them incredibly flavourful. What are the varieties of Pantua? Over time, various regional and household variations of Pantua have emerged. Some newer versions use a filling of nuts or dried fruits, while others may incorporate flavors like saffron or rose essence into the syrup. Another popular variant is the 'Ledikeni,' a cylindrical version of Pantua named after Lady Canning, the wife of the Governor-General of India during British rule. However, the most famous is the traditional version of Pantua, which comes from Sirajganj in Bengal, Hussain said, and doesn't have a hollow centre. For those looking to explore Bengali cuisine or simply indulge in a delightful dessert, Pantua is a must-try. Its deep-rooted history and irresistible taste make it a timeless classic in the world of Indian sweets.
