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Korea Herald

It's all about music

Great jazz playing in a hole in the wall, traditional folk songs in a beautiful hanok and music on request at an LP bar all make for great getaways Fru, a cozy jazz-playing izakaya in Jongno It's not always the fancy luxury bars that leave the deepest impression. Sometimes, it's the small, hidden spot you stumble on that offers just the right atmosphere and drinks. Fru, a Japanese izakaya about 300 meters from Exit No. 2 of Anguk Station on Subway Line No. 3 in Jongno-gu, Seoul, has just one four-person table and a bar with nine seats. Because the space is so small — yet very popular — it's strongly recommended to make a reservation at least an hour in advance. The menu is simple but well-curated, featuring Japanese dishes such as sashimi, ramen and rolled omelet that pair perfectly with the drinks. The food may not be extravagant, but it stays true to quality and flavor. Prices are also very reasonable. For drinks, Fru offers a range of sophisticated highballs, including cassis highball, Famous Grouse highball and Fireball cinnamon highball, as well as sweet potato shochu and Korean soju. What truly sets Fru apart, however, is its music. Most of the time, the izakaya plays jazz, but it occasionally spins hits from the 1990s and early 2000s. Guests can even request songs by jotting them down on a small piece of paper and handing it to the staff, though selections are at the bar's discretion. One thing to keep in mind: visits are limited to two hours, as there's a steady flow of customers throughout the night. Right across from the royal palace of Changdeokgung sits a modest hanok -- the Seoul Museum of Korean Folk Music. Inside, it's all about the music that once carried the rhythm of life in Korea: folk songs passed down for centuries, from field to field and village to village. These folk songs (minyo in Korean) were not just entertainment. The Korean people have always loved singing -- farmers sang to steady the pace of planting rice, fishermen to pass the time at sea, women to lighten the load of housework. There were songs for festivals and weddings, and songs to soothe grief at funerals. Minyo carries the joys and sorrows of life, as well as all the little moments in between, into our ceremonies, rituals and everyday routines. And each region shaped its own style, giving the folk tradition a colorful, varied soundscape. Here, history is something you can hear. Slip on a set of headphones and you can listen to the work songs of the Hwanghae region (now in North Korea), the playful marketplace chants of Gyeongsang provinces, or the soulful laments of the southern coast. The museum was established to preserve this oral heritage, much of which has faded with rapid industrialization. The hanok itself is part of the charm. Wander through its intimate galleries to discover themed exhibitions, audio stations and videos. On the first floor, curated listening sessions let you hear the voices of Korea's many landscapes under the eaves of traditional architecture. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., the museum offers a rare chance to step out of modern Seoul and into a soundscape shaped over generations. One of the best ways to pull the plug on work is to have good food paired with perfect drinks, and music that flows from the speakers like it was made for the moment. Nestled in the streets of Garosu-gil -- a neighborhood in Seoul's Gangnam-gu known for its eclectic cafes and small fashion boutiques -- lies Muse On, a music bar with a great atmosphere, lots of LPs and good drinks and snacks. A 10-minute walk from Exit No. 8 of Sinsa Station on Subway Line No. 3 will take you straight there. Muse On takes music recommendations from visitors, allowing them to sit back and enjoy their selections. From mid-2000s pop like Bobby V.'s "Slow Down" to Ed Sheeran's "Photograph" and indie band Wave to Earth's "Peace Eyes," the playlist spans genres and moods. Drinks are priced between 12,000 won and 20,000 won. A lemon highball costs 12,000 won, while a Moscow Mule is priced at 15,000 won. Weekends tend to get crowded, so time your visit wisely. 32 Dosan-daero 15-gil, Gangnam-gu, Seoul jaaykim@ hwangdh@ junheee@