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The Independent
03-07-2025
- The Independent
Our daughter has Down Syndrome – this Lake District destination made the perfect family holiday
Windermere is a hard no. It's not personal – we have been before, and there is plenty for families to see and do, but not this time. The holiday crowds, narrow pavements and unrelenting traffic proved to be a bit much for me, let alone my seven-year-old daughter, Alice, who has Down Syndrome. While it's not the most restrictive of disabilities, it still needs to be managed carefully. Instead, we head for nearby Coniston Water. This is the heart of Swallows and Amazons territory and my wife, Jane, and I agree it will be just the thing to get our two kids off their electronic devices. Phones and iPads had been used to get us along the motorway that crawls past Manchester, but now they have to be wrenched from our children's hands. There is a grudging acknowledgement from our 11-year-old son, Henry, that mountains and lakes might be almost as interesting as a screen; a model-railway enthusiast, he begins to contemplate how the green hillsides dotted with sheep and cows might be incorporated into his set. The weather is cloudy, but the rain is on pause, so we book a 60-minute trip on the Coniston Launch, based at Coniston Boat Landings. Alice is easily startled by noise and it is very hard to get her to calm once upset, so we come prepared with ear defenders to offset the noise made by diesel engines. These are used initially, but soon discarded once the boat actually sets sail. Compared to Windermere, this area of the Lake District is undeveloped, thanks in part to the National Trust. The draw of Peel (aka Wild Cat) Island, meant the secret harbour wasn't so secret, hosting kayakers and boats sailing around and about. Alice has already taught me how much I used to underestimate people with disabilities, so I reflect on whether she might be capable of kayaking one day. For now, we stick with the cruise; seeing the island close-up is still a treat. We could have disembarked as part of the boat trip, but opt to return to shore; hungry humans, young or old, are not conducive to happy sightseeing. We eat lunch in the Blue Bird Café (a reference to Donald Campbell and his ill-fated attempt to break the water speed record), where they do a very acceptable toasted sandwich, with excellent views across the water. Arthur Ransome is just one of many writers and artists who fell in love with the Lakes. The Victorian intellectual and aesthete, John Ruskin, is one of the few who had the chance to build a home, Brantwood, on the hills facing the Old Man of Coniston. With beautifully curated gardens and breathtaking views of the fells, it forms a stunning part of the natural landscape. Brantwood can also be reached via a short drive down very narrow roads on the eastern side of Coniston Water. Alice is prone to tiring easily, but enjoys (rather than just copes with) the walk-up steps and slopes from the car park to the house. Provision is made for disabled visitors, but parts of the house and garden are inaccessible to wheelchair users. Despite being open to the public, complete with café and gift shop, Brantwood retains a homely feel. Normally, it is a struggle to exit swiftly and cost-free through the shop. On this occasion, browsing through the books made me the guilty party, while my wife looked at the art work. Inspired by Ruskin, my son announces he wants to keep a diary of words and pictures and asks for a Brantwood pencil and notebook. For once, I'm happy that I hadn't rushed through. We stay at The Swan at Newby Bridge, a place that is well known to us and selected by The Independent as the best family hotel in the Lakes. It's easy to see why. Located off the A590 – perfect for the South Lakes and tourist attractions – it has family rooms, a swimming pool, small indoor games room and an outdoor play area. There are a few glitches – our room had not been cleaned properly – but it's dealt with by friendly staff who want to make things right. A family suite proved ideal for us. The hotel is an old coaching inn, which is part of its charm, but thought has been given to guests with mobility issues, including four accessible rooms, two of which have a wet room. There is also a wheelchair-friendly path from the hotel down to the lake side. The pub-style section to the dining area is reliable, and we would have been happy to eat there every night as it is perfect for families. We had our own food for Alice, due to aspects of her condition, which was accepted without question, as one would hope. We did eat out one night, at the Royal Oak in Cartmel, a 15-minute drive from the hotel. Without the kids, I'd be looking at blowing the budget on dining at one of Simon Rogan's places. With kids, however, a pub in the heart of the village seemed a wiser choice and we were rewarded with lovely food, warm people and beer from the local Fells Brewery. We finished with sticky toffee pudding as Cartmel holds claim to this decadent dishes' invention. Whether arriving early to the Lakes, or wanting to extend your stay on departure, Sizergh Castle, just off the M6, is a great place to stop. It's a National Trust property, which means a good café and a decent walk, if not a children's play area. Travelling with children, let alone a disabled one, can bring moments of stress and bliss in equal measure. When we were just a couple, revisiting places was anathema – there's so much of the world to discover. Nowadays, we 'risk-assess', like most parents, just more so. When we leave the Swan and the Lakes, our thoughts are less 'where next' and more 'when can we return'?
Telegraph
14-06-2025
- Telegraph
The Lake District hotel launching a luxury yacht on Windermere
An hour after leaving Langdale Chase on Windermere to return to London, the views getting rapidly greyer, I sought solace in Instagram DMs responding to what I'd posted during my stay. Friends shared cherished family holiday stories. One remembered learning to swim off the jetty at the hotel as a small boy, while his father drove their family boat, blind drunk on whisky, at speed around the water. Hey, it was the 1980s. This is the home of Swallows and Amazons, the book and two film adaptations of 1920s childhood reverie. One of the movies was filmed primarily on this lake, and the crew stayed at the Grade II-listed Langdale Chase, long before it got a ruinously expensive glow-up and became the AA Rosette dining destination and lavish 30-bedroom hotel it is today. As a child of the London suburbs, I can't imagine how fabulous growing up here would have been, but as a middle-aged man, I relished my day on the water drinking Buck's fizz, eating venison tartare canapés and listening to stories from Rob, skipper of the 1928 Albatros, who had a previous career as a police diver. I'm not big on twee tales from a century ago of outdoorsy brats with quirky nicknames, but talk to me about Line of Duty and my dopamine fires. As we glided past bushy little islands, I grilled Rob about dives for samurai swords involved in notorious murders. When he told me Kate Bush stayed at Langdale Chase last year, it was the icing on the cake. Back at the hotel, a Swallows and Amazons afternoon tea is served. To me, afternoon tea is the most pointless non-meal imaginable. You're never really hungry for it and it further spoils your appetite for dinner. But, if you skip breakfast, there's a lot to enjoy with this version of it. Yes, there are the predictable finger sandwiches and scones (not the revelation the staff will lead you to believe), but there's fabulous breaded and fried ham hock, potted shrimps on buttery crumpet, a lobster roll, spiced cake and a yummy rice pudding tart surrounded by crunchy sweet tuile, giving clever textural juxtaposition, with a swallow motif on top. You can sit in the dining room all afternoon looking out over Thomas Henry Mawson's 1890s gardens through an antique telescope. Also impressive: the tea used is grown and picked in Cornwall, which I never knew existed. Langdale Chase was originally a Victorian mega-mansion for the widow of a Mancunian industrialist who lived here in splendour with her grief and 17 servants. While the good bones of the place are visible (the ornate hand-carved wooden staircase and stained glass in the main hall create an instant 'wow'), the design today feels fresh as well as respectful. It's glamorous, with pop graphic paintings by Alice P in Perspex cases brightening up the hallways, as well as constantly blazing open fires. Much of the classic floral wallpaper is actually woven printed fabric, some of the wooden Tudor panelling is older than the building itself, and a careful reconfiguration of rooms has given every table in the dining room a lake view. I could sit in the ornately panelled bar and stare out at the clouds drifting over the fells for hours, although I could do without a lounge muzak version of Staying Alive, while a Manhattan served without a cherry is a crime. Marks off there, but straight back on again for the omnipresent hounds to cuddle. This is a dog-friendly hotel, with ever-ready cushions and water bowls. This is also a hotel where the staff have been encouraged to engage with you. Everyone seems to be having as good a time as you are. The two high points at Langdale Chase are the interiors and food. There's a burger and salad-led lounge menu that is a welcome alternative to the main restaurant, which can feel overwhelming after a couple of meals. There's no degustation in the main restaurant, but it's still definitely for special occasions: start with oysters or caviar, move on to scallops or a poshed-up prawn cocktail, charred in-season asparagus with seaweed butter and a crisped egg, then halibut, lamb, a much laboured-over version of cauliflower cheese, or a fillet steak you simply can't fault, served with onion rings and those potato pave chips made from compressed slithers of spud that elevate carbs to heights my Irish forefathers could never have imagined possible. Breakfast is served in the same dining space, with a continental spread, a Benedict, an avocado and poached egg dish with sriracha hollandaise, pancakes, waffles and smoked kippers. There's talk of a spa next year. For now, there's a cinema next to the wine cellar for rainy days, with a fridge full of ice cream and bags of Haribo (and they'll ferry drinks down to you from the bar). Or you could just sit in one of the grand rooms downstairs with a copy of Swallows and Amazons and a pot of tea. Maybe instead a gruesome true crime book and a few glasses of claret. Doubles from £315, including breakfast. There are two adapted rooms. Ambleside Road, Ecclerigg, Windermere LA23 1LW (015394 32201) Mark C O'Flaherty travelled as a guest of Avanti West Coast, which runs regular direct services between Euston and Oxenholme from £35 each way.
