Latest news with #Thevar2.0
Time Out
15-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Time Out
What it's like to dine at a two-Michelin-starred Indian restaurant in Singapore
It felt like it wasn't too long ago when we celebrated the debut of Singapore's first contemporary Indian restaurant. Chef Manogren Thevar's eponymous restaurant opened its doors in 2018 on Keong Saik Road, and after picking up two Michelin Stars, three Knives from The Best Chef awards and a spot on Asia's 50 Best Restaurants along the way, he's now ready for something new. Enter Thevar 2.0 – a well-rebooted version of the original, now located at Mohamed Sultan Road. It's twice as big for one, seating 28 guests in the main dining hall, two to three at a cushy chef's table and up to 10 in the private dining room (which is fitted with its own kitchen, restroom and private entrance). The minimalistic, sanctuary-like space is a subtle callback to Chef Mano's childhood home in Penang, with terracotta walls and Chettinad-inspired motifs embedded in its pillars and rugs. While the design of the restaurant is muted, the menu and flavours are anything but. Yes, it's the same signature items that greet you in the $298 tasting menu (though we hear new sharing dishes are on the way), but if you've got a real penchant for South Indian cuisine like us, and even if you don't, a meal at Thevar is not to be passed up. Expect nothing less than spot-on seasoning, complex spice blends and stellar presentation. Chef Mano brings his classical French training to the table – his creations are never so vibrant that they overwhelm, nor so restrained that they feel pared back. My meal kicks off with a flavour-packed snack trio of rainbow trout atop crispy idli, chaat studded with juicy Tomberry tomatoes and my favourite of the lot – pork belly and sambal aioli wrapped neatly in a betel nut leaf. Chef's take on pani puri is at once strikingly similar to yet worlds apart from the iconic snack, using a dehydrated carrot juice tart shell encasing pomegranate, tomato and buttermilk bits, elevated with a hint of feta cheese. And when it comes to the appetisers, it's an impossible fight between the lobster ishtu and abalone khichdi. The lobster arrives in an addictive yuzu-coconut stew, topped with pumpkin seeds and puffed rice for added texture. And as for the khichdi, let's just say I have no issues polishing off every tender morsel of Jeju abalone and pearl couscous in my bowl. I initially steer clear of the Mysore spiced lamb rack for fear that it might be too gamey, but one bite from my dining companion's plate is enough to change my mind. Perfectly charred with a medium rare centre and served with spiced condiments and a side of fragrant biryani and raita, it's no wonder the dish is a beloved classic. That said, the Tajima wagyu makes for a brilliant alternative, and you get the same pairing sauces of sorrel chutney, mango and pineapple achar for acidity, and a delightful touch of sweetness from the butternut squash masala. Desserts are certainly not an afterthought as well. I enjoy the peach and paneer ice cream with rose granita, especially for the refreshing sprigs of mint leaves on the side. The roasted dates kulfi is more akin to a typical restaurant dessert, weaving in familiar flavours like banana milk cream, pecan crumbles and parmesan. At Thevar, you get the sense that Indian cuisine in Singapore has evolved far beyond the usual messy fix-ups of biryani and ghee-laden curries. At the same time, Chef Mano's plates tell us that culinary refinement doesn't have to come at the cost of punchy, feel-good flavours. The only way to put this to the test? Bite the bullet and book a table. Or you can wait for the communal sharing menu to drop in a couple of months. Thevar is open from Tuesday to Saturday at 16 Mohamed Sultan Rd, Singapore 238965.
Business Times
10-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Business Times
Thevar 2.0 shows off mod-Indian cuisine in a new light
NEW RESTAURANT Thevar 16 Mohamed Sultan Road Singapore 238965 Tel: 9750 8275 Open for dinner Tues to Sat: 6 pm to 11 pm; lunch on Sat: 12 pm to 2.30 pm POOR Grandma Thevar. She got played. While her name may have been invoked when her precocious progeny Mano needed an origin story for his fledgling mod-Indian restaurant back in 2018, he doesn't really need her anymore. It's not a bad thing. Two Michelin stars and a steady creative evolution later, what comes out of Thevar's kitchen now is his (and his team's) and his alone. Namely, a deliberate, confident, follow-my-own-path playbook that isn't bound by tradition or even authenticity. The spirit of Thevar restaurant may be Indian, but other than that, anything goes. Besides, if Thevar's granny knew he was turning pani puri into carrot-derived candy shells filled with fruity bursts of ginger and tomato, she might have whacked him in the head. And so it is that we enter Thevar 2.0, which sees the chef Thevar moving into his new digs at Mohamed Sultan with the verve of a guy who finally got his own apartment after having crashed at his friend's place for the past seven years. After making do – and doing well – at Meta's hand-me-down premises in Keong Saik, you can see Thevar's delight in turning the new place into his personal universe. Cue discreet South Indian design features and tiny artworks, mood-lit dining room, shiny kitchen and even a happy 80s playlist featuring A-ha and Blondie. A NEWSLETTER FOR YOU Friday, 2 pm Lifestyle Our picks of the latest dining, travel and leisure options to treat yourself. Sign Up Sign Up Thevar 2.0 may mark a new chapter, but it is also the completion of its first. Much of the current menu originated in Keong Saik, the weary surroundings of which couldn't do justice to the sophisticated collection of precision bites developed over the years. Now, the decor matches the food, and the whole combination packs a punch. A trio of snacks to start the meal. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT The menu price is still the same at S$298, and since we haven't been back in a long while, even the old signatures feel fresh. Namely, an opening snack of crispy-melty, deep-fried piece of pork belly, smeared with sambal aioli and wrapped in a betel leaf. It's part of a trio that sets the tone for the meal – inventive, yet familiar. A chewy idli pancake gets a Nordic twist with dill yoghurt and cured ocean trout; and a miniature chaat explodes in a mix of crunchy shell, tart tamarind, tomberry tomatoes and other little bits and bobs. Thevar himself isn't there when we visit – he's briefly hospitalised at the time – but the well-oiled team led by head chef Shan delivers without a single hiccup. Vadai with smoked eel. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT Vadai is pressed into a mahjong tile shape and topped with smoky grilled eel for the token Japanese twist, but still a worthy bite. And then, of course, there's the old favourite of Chettinad chicken roti – pulled chicken curry that's creamy and rich and stuffed into a taco of lightly toasted naan, which holds its shape and texture as you polish it off. Lobster in ishtu sauce. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT A plump lobster tail has a ceremonial bath in turmeric water before being set in an ishtu sauce – a spiced, creamy coconut gravy with a hint of yuzu and cubes of nashi pear and pumpkin seeds for crunch. Little buns are convenient sponges for the remaining sauce. Indian abalone porridge. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT Good as it is, it's outshone by an incredibly tender piece of Jeju island abalone that must have been given better massages than a cow in Kobe. Steamed till it gives up all resistance and is left with just enough bite, it's laid over a bed of Indian khichdi made with koshihikari rice that's infused with heady spices. Think Korean abalone porridge with a Bombay accent. Mysore spiced rack of lamb. PHOTO: THEVAR The meal is such that you still have room for lamb biryani, a tender Mysore-spiced lamb rack served with three condiments – spicy sorrel chutney, homemade achar and a marsala-scented butternut puree. A dollop of fruity-bitter raita is served separately like a shy neighbour, but this is a party for everyone: Mix everything up with the excellent lamb and the biryani rice on the side. The delicate basmati is mixed with bits of meat, cranberries and nuts, and the only thing wrong about it is the stingy amount. Pre-dessert of soursop sorbet and rose granita. PHOTO: JAIME, BT For dessert, a waif of a pastry chef brings out a pre-dessert of soursop sorbet on rose-flavoured granita, which hides little surprises of aloe vera, grapes and mangosteen. It's perfumed, fruity, slightly bitter and is a refreshing prelude to the main dessert. We're challenged to detect the savoury element in the scoop of kulfi ice cream made with roasted dates and coffee. It turns out to be fried onions, but we just can't tell. No matter. This quirky combination that tastes like banana cake and not-too-sweet ice cream with a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese actually works. Petit fours of financier, mochi and caramel tart. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT The final sweet ending is worth the wait – a cardamom-spiced financier, fruity cream-filled mochi and a sticky-chewy toffee caramel tart. So far, so flawless, but herein lies the crux: Technically strong, Thevar 2.0 also feels safe in its comfort zone. As it progresses, it needs to grow, break more barriers and take some risks. Either way, Grandma would be proud. Rating: 7.5
