What it's like to dine at a two-Michelin-starred Indian restaurant in Singapore
Enter Thevar 2.0 – a well-rebooted version of the original, now located at Mohamed Sultan Road. It's twice as big for one, seating 28 guests in the main dining hall, two to three at a cushy chef's table and up to 10 in the private dining room (which is fitted with its own kitchen, restroom and private entrance). The minimalistic, sanctuary-like space is a subtle callback to Chef Mano's childhood home in Penang, with terracotta walls and Chettinad-inspired motifs embedded in its pillars and rugs.
While the design of the restaurant is muted, the menu and flavours are anything but. Yes, it's the same signature items that greet you in the $298 tasting menu (though we hear new sharing dishes are on the way), but if you've got a real penchant for South Indian cuisine like us, and even if you don't, a meal at Thevar is not to be passed up.
Expect nothing less than spot-on seasoning, complex spice blends and stellar presentation. Chef Mano brings his classical French training to the table – his creations are never so vibrant that they overwhelm, nor so restrained that they feel pared back. My meal kicks off with a flavour-packed snack trio of rainbow trout atop crispy idli, chaat studded with juicy Tomberry tomatoes and my favourite of the lot – pork belly and sambal aioli wrapped neatly in a betel nut leaf.
Chef's take on pani puri is at once strikingly similar to yet worlds apart from the iconic snack, using a dehydrated carrot juice tart shell encasing pomegranate, tomato and buttermilk bits, elevated with a hint of feta cheese. And when it comes to the appetisers, it's an impossible fight between the lobster ishtu and abalone khichdi. The lobster arrives in an addictive yuzu-coconut stew, topped with pumpkin seeds and puffed rice for added texture. And as for the khichdi, let's just say I have no issues polishing off every tender morsel of Jeju abalone and pearl couscous in my bowl.
I initially steer clear of the Mysore spiced lamb rack for fear that it might be too gamey, but one bite from my dining companion's plate is enough to change my mind. Perfectly charred with a medium rare centre and served with spiced condiments and a side of fragrant biryani and raita, it's no wonder the dish is a beloved classic. That said, the Tajima wagyu makes for a brilliant alternative, and you get the same pairing sauces of sorrel chutney, mango and pineapple achar for acidity, and a delightful touch of sweetness from the butternut squash masala.
Desserts are certainly not an afterthought as well. I enjoy the peach and paneer ice cream with rose granita, especially for the refreshing sprigs of mint leaves on the side. The roasted dates kulfi is more akin to a typical restaurant dessert, weaving in familiar flavours like banana milk cream, pecan crumbles and parmesan.
At Thevar, you get the sense that Indian cuisine in Singapore has evolved far beyond the usual messy fix-ups of biryani and ghee-laden curries. At the same time, Chef Mano's plates tell us that culinary refinement doesn't have to come at the cost of punchy, feel-good flavours. The only way to put this to the test? Bite the bullet and book a table. Or you can wait for the communal sharing menu to drop in a couple of months.
Thevar is open from Tuesday to Saturday at 16 Mohamed Sultan Rd, Singapore 238965.
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The Herald Scotland
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- The Herald Scotland
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