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Forbes
12-04-2025
- Forbes
Rolex Launches New Land-Dweller At Watches And Wonders 2025
The Rolex Land-Dweller in Everose gold with diamonds. Rolex doesn't have to do much to dominate coverage of any show of luxury watch introductions – one little tweak of an iconic case design is usually enough to break the internet. But Rolex earned its extensive coverage following the 2025 Watches and Wonders fair held April 1-7 in Geneva, with a new collection. The Land-Dweller is the first new Rolex collection in decades, except for the 1908, launched in 2023. The Rolex Land-Dweller in platinum. The Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller is a companion title to the Sea-Dweller and Sky-Dweller lines that completes the triumvirate, but it's less sporty than the other two. The watch is a master class in gender-neutral design, with enough edge and technical prowess to make it masculine and a size (there is a 36 mm option, in addition to the 40 mm size) and elegance that will appeal to women. The integrated bracelet, a restyled Jubilee design with flatter links, and honeycomb-motif dial give it a sport/dress aesthetic that leans toward the dress side. The fluted bezel on a 40 mm model keeps it sporty, but the optional diamond bezel 36 mm makes it the perfect ladies' watch. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona with turquoise dial. The new movement positions it firmly in the category of high watchmaking. It is the brand's first in-house high-frequency caliber, running at 36,000 vph (5 Hz) compared to the usual 28,800 vph (4 Hz), the significance of which is that the higher the frequency, the more reliable and shock-resistant the movement becomes. Because a higher frequency can also cause wear, high-beat movements usually contain wear-resistant silicon components, and this one does. Caliber 7135 has something called a Dynapulse escapement, an alternative to the traditional Swiss lever escapement that is made mainly with silicon components, which make it lightweight, energy efficient and insensitive to magnetic fields. There is also a ceramic balance staff and Paraflex shock absorbers which make the movement robust despite its slim proportions (the watch, cased, is only 9.8 mm thick). It holds 16 patent applications. Prices are: 36 mm steel and white gold, $13,900 or 40 mm $14,900; 36 mm Everose gold with diamonds, $88,300; 40 mm platinum, $63,500. There is a supple new bracelet on the Rolex 1908. The tweaks in other collections are just as newsworthy. The GMT-Master II was given a new ceramic dial in green to match the daytime half of the black and green day/night ceramic bezel, with an 18k white gold case. Rolex Datejust 31 with red ombre dial. Rolex continues its fun application on the on dials of its Oyster Perpetual, adding a muted lavender (on a 28 mm version), sandy beige (on a 36 mm) and pistachio green (on a 41 mm), all in shiny lacquer – the high-end fashion version of Rolex that extends the brand's wide appeal and further opens the door to female buyers. Rolex Oyster Perpetual with lavender dial. The 1908, Rolex's widely acclaimed 2023 replacement for the discontinued Cellini dress line, was given a new bracelet this year. The seven rows of very small links give it a suppleness that comes close to the Milano mesh style, a design that makes it hug the contours of the wrist, and a high polish gives it a jeweled quality. Rolex GMT-Master II with a new green ceramic dial. Two new dial colors are also standouts: the famous (and famously inaccessible) Daytona has a new turquoise dial on the yellow gold model; the GMT-Master II gets a tiger iron dial on the Everose gold model; the yellow gold Sky-Dweller has a new green dial; and the ladies' yellow gold Datejust 31 was given a red ombre dial. Colored dials have migrated from the realm of fashion watches to luxury watches, but with more upscale materials like ceramic and hardstone, in fact hardstone dials were one of the major trends at Watches and Wonders 2025.
Wall Street Journal
08-04-2025
- Business
- Wall Street Journal
14 Exciting Timepieces From Watches and Wonders 2025
The watch world discovered new launches from more than 55 brands, including Chopard, Hublot and Rolex, at the annual Watches and Wonders fair last week in Geneva. During the five-day conference, Bell and Ross introduced the smallest and thinnest iteration of the everyday BR-05 watch yet, while Cartier unveiled a timepiece encrusted with over 1,000 diamonds. Some houses unveiled highly complicated watches, such as Panerai's Luminor Perpetual Calendar, or A. Lange & Söhne's new Minute Repeater Perpetual. Others released elegant watches that blended with jewelry, including Chanel's braided gold style and Bvlgari's white gold, snake-like bracelet. Below are 14 noteworthy releases. For its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin introduced a limited-edition Traditionnelle, only available in 370 pieces. The new 38mm manual-winding style is available exclusively in pink-gold and platinum finishes, with a geometric motif created specifically for the anniversary. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding, $26,100. To celebrate the 20th anniversary of its flagship watch, the Big Bang, Hublot released a streamlined edition, rendered in the signature blend of titanium steel, fiberglass, rubber and ceramic. The newer, smaller face and thinner strap are complemented by a patterned dial and a touch of red. Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary Titanium Ceramic, $20,800 Chanel often uses signatures from its clothing and leather accessories in its watch designs. The Première Galon bracelet is a prime example, with a bangle bracelet made of 18-karat yellow gold in a twisted braid. Chanel Première Galon, $14,800 The Aeterna is a modern makeover of the iconic Serpenti, which dates back to 1948. It features a white-gold curve case, head and bezel set with round brilliant-cut diamonds, and a white-gold crown with diamonds. The green hands break up the icy effect. Bvlgari Serpenti Aeterna, $219,000. The beloved 1908 Rolex is now available with a seven-piece link bracelet called Settimo. Its 18-karat gold case and exceptionally bright white dial make it a modern take on minimalism. Rolex Perpetual 1908, $35,000. Bell & Ross watches are known for their precision. The redesigned BR-05 features a more compact 36mm case and a thickness of 8.5mm. Its sleek dial, luminous hands and automatic movement with a 54-hour power reserve combine functionality and style. Bell & Ross BR-05 36MM Black Steel, $4,300. The Reverso was first created for polo players. With a face that can be flipped to show a second side, the design was intended to protect the glass. The Reverso Tribute Geographic honors these roots, though the reverse dial now features a world-time indication. Only 150 of these limited-edition pink gold timepieces are available. Jaeger-LeCoultre Pink-Gold Reverso Tribute Geographic, $34,900. A testament to Panerai's philosophy of high complications, the Luminor Perpetual Calendar features a sapphire crystal dial, a dual-time GMT function and the in-house P.4100 movement—all while remaining user friendly. Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech, $67,700. A. Lange & Söhne's new Minute Repeater Perpetual incorporates two sophisticated complications: a minute repeater and perpetual calendar. The timepiece, limited to only 50 pieces, also features an enamel dial crafted in-house, and a platinum case. A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual, price upon request. The Piaget Polo 79 watch—featuring a 38mm rhodium-finished 18-karat white gold case, dial and bracelet—joins the yellow gold version presented last year at Watches and Wonders. Piaget's decorative edging and satin-finished elements are integrated into the case. Piaget Polo 79 Watch in White Gold, $82,500. The Calatrava collection, a timeless Patek Philippe style, now includes a new platinum model with a vintage touch. The polished case has a smooth, beveled bezel that transitions into a shiny chocolate-brown alligator leather strap. Patek Philippe Ref. 6196P, $47,130. The new Panthère timepiece combines watchmaking and jewelry, drawing from the brand's iconic history. The 'Toi & Moi' bracelet features the three-dimensional feline on one side, the delicate watch on the other and 1,103 brilliant-cut diamonds. Cartier Panthère Jewelry Watch, $206,000. Price subject to change. Chopard, for the first time, is adding a platinum style to its Alpine Eagle sports watch collection. This model features the ultrathin XP case and a slightly modified bracelet from previous models. The new timepiece boasts a dial with a blue gradient inspired by Alpine glaciers. Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum, $110,500. Initially released in 2016, this Frederique Constant timepiece was heralded as one of the most budget-friendly perpetual calendar watches available. Since its introduction, the style has been transformed with elevated exterior finishes and technical features, including a 40mm steel case and a three-day power reserve. Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, $9,995. Write to Rashad Minnick at
New York Times
01-04-2025
- Business
- New York Times
Piaget Revisits the Trapezoid
At the annual Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva this week, few brands are expected to introduce new designs. Luxury watchmakers recently have been consolidating collections around classics, reducing the number of models and focusing on best-selling ones. Some analysts have called it a 'flight to quality' as the industry battles declining sales. One brand plans to buck that trend, though. At the fair, Piaget is to introduce Sixtie, a small trapezoid bracelet watch inspired by one of its designs from the late 1960s. Piaget's chief executive, Benjamin Comar, said he believed the unconventional shape would attract new buyers. 'Some customers will discover Piaget through it and how distinctive we are in this market,' he said. Stéphanie Sivrière, Piaget's artistic director, described the 29-millimeter Sixtie as 'the little sister of the Andy Warhol watch,' referring to the larger cushion-shape Piaget that the Pop artist wore in the 1970s and that Piaget reintroduced, with the Warhol name, as a low-volume 45-millimeter piece late last year. She added that the two could be considered 'a couple offer of vintage Piaget watches: his and hers.' Sixtie, the brand hopes, will sustain the momentum that Piaget generated last year during its 150th anniversary. (Richemont, Piaget's owner, does not disclose the revenue of individual brands.) 'It was a very good year for us to connect with the customer about the identity, culture and history of Piaget, which was a bit forgotten,' Mr. Comar said. 'With products like the Polo 79, the high jewelry collection and the Andy Warhol collection, we showed what Piaget is about. That was what we wanted to do.' Mr. Comar said the battery-powered quartz Sixtie had a specific role to play. 'There is space in our range for a more daily watch,' he said. 'Sixtie is still very sophisticated, but it's a daily watch in the jewelry watch section.' The entry-level model, at $11,500, has a stainless steel case and bracelet and a bezel set with 51 brilliant-cut diamonds. While the name may be new, the Sixtie design is derived from one created by Jean-Claude Gueit, the celebrated designer who took control of Piaget's design department after his employer, the goldsmith Ponti, Gennari & Co., acquired the brand in 1967. He revitalized Piaget's design story, playing with asymmetry and precious stones to create the style it is still known for today. At Piaget, Sixtie's trapezoid shape was first seen in 1969 in both wristwatches and sautoirs, the long, decorative necklaces that sometimes featured multiple watch pendants. The new Sixtie collection is to include a gold sautoir set with a single watch pendant set with diamonds (expected to be about $300,000). Picking up on the recent trend of men wearing small watches, Mr. Comar said Sixtie was not explicitly aimed at women. 'We think it will be mostly women buying this watch,' he said. 'But our customers are free to wear what they want, so I don't say it's a women's watch: it's a small model watch.' Mr. Comar said he was confident of the model's success, even while the watch market was forecast to contract again this year. 'It's not a gamble,' he said. 'When you launch a line, it's not for one year, it's for a long time.'
Yahoo
18-03-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Panerai Names Emmanuel Perrin CEO
PARIS — Panerai has named Emmanuel Perrin its new chief executive officer, effective April 1. He will take over from Jean-Marc Pontroué, who held the position since 2018 and revealed his departure from the Compagnie Financière Richemont-owned company on Monday in an Instagram post. More from WWD Sandbridge Capital Taps Lynda Berkowitz for Senior Advisory Role EXCLUSIVE: Cartier Returns to Curate the Women's Pavilion at Expo 2025 in Japan L'Oréal USA Names New Dermatological Beauty Head 'It is with excitement and a deep sense of responsibility that I take the baton handed from Jean-Marc and the teams that have contributed to the development of Panerai to this day,' Perrin said in a statement announcing his new position. 'I am looking forward to being of service to the maison, its colleagues, its clients, its partners and the Paneristi [community] worldwide.' Perrin, who will report to Richemont CEO Nicolas Bos in his new role, has been head of its specialist watchmakers at group level since 2017, overseeing brands including A. Lange & Söhne, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget, Roger Dubuis and Vacheron Constantin. The incoming executive counts some 33 years of experience within Richemont. Prior to heading the specialist watchmakers, Perrin was Cartier's executive vice president of sales, international commercial director, and prior to that, served for more than four years as Cartier North America's president and CEO. He joined the jeweler in 2010 from its stablemate Van Cleef & Arpels, where he had spent almost nine years in executive roles. Perrin also served as the president of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, the organizing body of the Watches and Wonders fair. Meanwhile, Pontroué is expected to leave Richemont after 'a distinguished 25-year tenure with the group,' the watchmaking company said. It lauded the departing executive's 'pivotal role in shaping Panerai's strategy and global presence, following his leadership positions at Montblanc and Roger Dubuis.' His future plans could not immediately be learned. Best of WWD EXCLUSIVE: Maje Names Charlotte Tasset Ferrec CEO Nadja Swarovski Exits Family Company Amid Ongoing Corporate Shakeup Aeffe MD Exits Fashion Group
