14 Exciting Timepieces From Watches and Wonders 2025
During the five-day conference, Bell and Ross introduced the smallest and thinnest iteration of the everyday BR-05 watch yet, while Cartier unveiled a timepiece encrusted with over 1,000 diamonds. Some houses unveiled highly complicated watches, such as Panerai's Luminor Perpetual Calendar, or A. Lange & Söhne's new Minute Repeater Perpetual. Others released elegant watches that blended with jewelry, including Chanel's braided gold style and Bvlgari's white gold, snake-like bracelet.
Below are 14 noteworthy releases.
For its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin introduced a limited-edition Traditionnelle, only available in 370 pieces. The new 38mm manual-winding style is available exclusively in pink-gold and platinum finishes, with a geometric motif created specifically for the anniversary. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding, $26,100.
To celebrate the 20th anniversary of its flagship watch, the Big Bang, Hublot released a streamlined edition, rendered in the signature blend of titanium steel, fiberglass, rubber and ceramic. The newer, smaller face and thinner strap are complemented by a patterned dial and a touch of red. Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary Titanium Ceramic, $20,800
Chanel often uses signatures from its clothing and leather accessories in its watch designs. The Première Galon bracelet is a prime example, with a bangle bracelet made of 18-karat yellow gold in a twisted braid. Chanel Première Galon, $14,800
The Aeterna is a modern makeover of the iconic Serpenti, which dates back to 1948. It features a white-gold curve case, head and bezel set with round brilliant-cut diamonds, and a white-gold crown with diamonds. The green hands break up the icy effect. Bvlgari Serpenti Aeterna, $219,000.
The beloved 1908 Rolex is now available with a seven-piece link bracelet called Settimo. Its 18-karat gold case and exceptionally bright white dial make it a modern take on minimalism. Rolex Perpetual 1908, $35,000.
Bell & Ross watches are known for their precision. The redesigned BR-05 features a more compact 36mm case and a thickness of 8.5mm. Its sleek dial, luminous hands and automatic movement with a 54-hour power reserve combine functionality and style. Bell & Ross BR-05 36MM Black Steel, $4,300.
The Reverso was first created for polo players. With a face that can be flipped to show a second side, the design was intended to protect the glass. The Reverso Tribute Geographic honors these roots, though the reverse dial now features a world-time indication. Only 150 of these limited-edition pink gold timepieces are available. Jaeger-LeCoultre Pink-Gold Reverso Tribute Geographic, $34,900.
A testament to Panerai's philosophy of high complications, the Luminor Perpetual Calendar features a sapphire crystal dial, a dual-time GMT function and the in-house P.4100 movement—all while remaining user friendly. Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech, $67,700.
A. Lange & Söhne's new Minute Repeater Perpetual incorporates two sophisticated complications: a minute repeater and perpetual calendar. The timepiece, limited to only 50 pieces, also features an enamel dial crafted in-house, and a platinum case. A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual, price upon request.
The Piaget Polo 79 watch—featuring a 38mm rhodium-finished 18-karat white gold case, dial and bracelet—joins the yellow gold version presented last year at Watches and Wonders. Piaget's decorative edging and satin-finished elements are integrated into the case. Piaget Polo 79 Watch in White Gold, $82,500.
The Calatrava collection, a timeless Patek Philippe style, now includes a new platinum model with a vintage touch. The polished case has a smooth, beveled bezel that transitions into a shiny chocolate-brown alligator leather strap. Patek Philippe Ref. 6196P, $47,130.
The new Panthère timepiece combines watchmaking and jewelry, drawing from the brand's iconic history. The 'Toi & Moi' bracelet features the three-dimensional feline on one side, the delicate watch on the other and 1,103 brilliant-cut diamonds. Cartier Panthère Jewelry Watch, $206,000. Price subject to change.
Chopard, for the first time, is adding a platinum style to its Alpine Eagle sports watch collection. This model features the ultrathin XP case and a slightly modified bracelet from previous models. The new timepiece boasts a dial with a blue gradient inspired by Alpine glaciers. Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum, $110,500.
Initially released in 2016, this Frederique Constant timepiece was heralded as one of the most budget-friendly perpetual calendar watches available. Since its introduction, the style has been transformed with elevated exterior finishes and technical features, including a 40mm steel case and a three-day power reserve. Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, $9,995.
Write to Rashad Minnick at rashad.minnick@wsj.com
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But a new 39% U.S. tariff on Switzerland could make this hobby more expensive, and potentially less attainable for first-time buyers. The duty, imposed during President Donald Trump's latest round of tariffs, hits the world's most important market for Swiss watch exports. From January to June, the U.S. overtook Japan and China as the top destination, with $3.17 billion ( 2.56 billion Swiss Francs) worth shipped, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. 'Companies cannot realistically absorb the tariff, which means retail prices in the U.S. will rise sharply,' Marcus Altenburg, managing partner at Swiss law firm Goldblum & Partners, told Fortune. For American buyers, especially younger ones, the math is straightforward: prices are going up, Anish Bhatt, a millennial 'watchfluencer' with 1.6 million followers on Instagram told Fortune. While the 39% levy applies to an importer's cost, not full retail, industry analysts predict a 12%-14% increase in store prices if brands pass on the cost to consumers. 'For many American collectors, the 39% tariff instantly turned new releases from Swiss brands into a luxury few can justify,' Joshua Ganjei, CEO of European Watch Company in Boston, told Fortune. 'The pre‑owned market is now the best option for value and immediate availability—no import headaches and no sticker shock.' That shift to secondhand is already underway, since availability in the primary market is so limited, Bhatt said. Still, a 2024 report by Watchfinder & Co. found 41% of Gen Z aged 16 to 26 came into possession of a luxury watch the previous year—and individuals in this age bracket who are ready to buy a luxury timepiece said $10,870 would be the starting point for their next purchase. 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