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Scroll.in
17-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Scroll.in
‘Kitchen Confidential' at 25: Anthony Bourdain revealed high-end chefs as rock-star pirates
Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly was released 25 years ago into a culinary world vastly different to today's. With his signature semi-gonzo style, all sarcasm, wit and profanity, Anthony Bourdain lifted the pot lid on the world of the professional restaurant kitchen. That world, if we were to believe Bourdain, was full of ne'er-do-well line cooks, shady produce purveyors, drug-fuelled hijinks and ego. Lots of ego. It was also full of people who loved food, who recognised, as Bourdain put it, that 'food had power'. Smash-hit show The Bear is set in a kitchen universe resembling this very world. Bourdain's book is part memoir, part journalistic tell-all. Trainspotting author Irvine Welsh has written the introduction to the anniversary edition. Food writer AA Gill once called the book 'Elizabeth David written by Quentin Tarantino'. In its pages, Bourdain unfolds the story of a contrary young man who enters the culinary world because food made him feel something. A kitchen fever dream By the time he published Kitchen Confidential, Bourdain was contentedly installed as executive chef of the Manhattan branch of Brasserie Les Halles, the culmination of years of experience in the professional kitchen. The catalyst for his love of food, we're told, was an oyster, shucked fresh from the bed by a French oyster-fisher, sampled in defiance, his horrified family looking on. In his usual economically descriptive style, Bourdain tells us that 'it tasted of seawater … of brine and flesh … and somehow … of the future'. He recounts his journey from pretentious teenager, smoking pilfered cigarettes and failing out of Vassar College, to arrogant kitchen hand thrust into learning classic techniques at the Culinary Institute of America, and finally to his substance-addled climb up the professional ladder. In between this personal narrative, Bourdain offers his readers insights and opinions: why you shouldn't order fish on a Monday, the set-up of a diligent line cook's mise-en-place (the cook's prepared ingredients and essential tools), the best knife to buy if you wanted to try this at home. Bourdain wasn't the first culinary 'bad boy' to write their memoir. Marco Pierre White's White Heat, published a decade prior, portrayed White as a chain-smoking culinary savant. However, Bourdain's book went further and deeper, and his innate storytelling skill made Kitchen Confidential stand out. Reading it, it's easy to imagine the bone-deep exhaustion, feel the exhilarating rush of service, hear the patois of the kitchen. Kitchen Confidential made the work of a professional kitchen seem like a fever dream. To Bourdain, chefs were anti-authoritarians. Rockstars. Pirates. Being a chef was cool. Of course, that patina of cool hid systemic problems: drug addictions, misogyny, racism, stress and exploitation. Dark restaurant underbelly Kitchen Confidential was certainly a response to the emergent trend of food as entertainment at the time. The Food Network started programming in 1993 and turned chefs, previously known only in the depths of the culinary world, into superstars on television sets across the world. Of course, there had been cooking shows around for a long time: Julia Child's The French Chef was first broadcast in 1963. But those programs were for housewives, lacking the commercial glamour with which the Food Network gilded their stable of chefs, including American chefs and restaurateurs Emeril Lagasse and Bobby Flay. Bourdain was hypercritical of this 'credulous' approach to food, an attitude which suffuses Kitchen Confidential. Rather than embracing what he saw as the sterility of those television chefs, he revelled in the 'dark recesses of the restaurant underbelly'. He wanted us to, as well. Bourdain set out to shock the establishment. He succeeded. Kitchen Confidential is also a reflection of the state of masculinity at the turn of the 21st century. When Bourdain describes the restaurant kitchen, it is hyper-masculine. He points out those rare women who could 'cut it' in the machismo-heavy atmosphere. He claimed he had worked 'with some really studly women line cooks'. What made them so good? They 'refused to behave any differently than her male co-workers'. In order to succeed, women had to behave like men. While Bourdain may have tempered these views in his later career, men are still the dominant gender in the professional kitchen. It is not friendly to women, as non-binary Australian chef Jess Ho pointed out in their recent kitchen memoir, which has been compared to Bourdain's. You can imagine a slew of young men would have been encouraged to try their hands at the culinary arts after reading Bourdain's macho, swashbuckling stories of life on the line. Passion, isolation, abuse Kitchen Confidential also sheds light on the overwhelming amount of mental health issues at play in the professional kitchen. He detailed his own ongoing struggles, as well as those of colleagues. He recounted the story of his friend, who fired a 'cocaine-stoked and deranged employee' who then went home and took his own life. Bourdain is chillingly cold-blooded about the story, stating 'the guy had to go', acknowledging the kitchen is a cut-throat ecosystem – only the fittest survive. The stress of the kitchen and toxic workplace culture contribute to chefs currently being more likely than the general population to die by suicide, so it seems these issues have not been addressed even 25 years later. While Bourdain may have been one-dimensionally critical of those who couldn't cut it, Kitchen Confidential also provided searing commentary about equality. He illuminated the ironic divide between the haves (those enjoying high-class meals) and the have-nots (those cooking them). He was particularly keen on showing the diligence of immigrant staff, often illegal, often 'downtrodden' and 'underpaid' by unscrupulous restaurant owners who exploited their work ethic. Bourdain felt these cooks, who 'come up through the ranks', were 'more valuable […] than some bed-wetting white boy whose mom brought him up thinking the world owed him a living'. It's clear Bourdain was critiquing himself as well. Twenty-five years ago, Bourdain's work was revolutionary. Now, we see reflections of the kitchen culture exposed in Bourdain's Kitchen Confidential everywhere. A forum on Reddit for food service professionals is titled r/KitchenConfidential. Television shows such as reality show Hell's Kitchen, hosted by Gordon Ramsay, and recent smash-hit drama The Bear, reinforce that in the kitchen, passion is still the tool that gets you through the inevitable isolation, abuse and suffering. Food for everyday people Kitchen Confidential became a bestseller, arriving as popular interest in food and the restaurant industry began to take off. It launched Bourdain's further career. Despite his disdain for sanitised food television, Bourdain himself went on to become a television host. His first series, A Cook's Tour, was accompanied by a book of the same title and appeared on the same Food Network he disparaged in Kitchen Confidential. With his shows filmed in far-off places, Bourdain could have easily become a 'food adventurer', making a spectacle of and exoticising ethnic cuisines. He wasn't perfect, but his genuine enthusiasm and curiosity connected his audience not only to the food he ate on screen, but also with the social and cultural context of the people who made that food. It fostered in many, including myself, a similar curiosity about food: about why we eat what we do, with whom and how. Bourdain died by suicide in 2018 in France, while filming Parts Unknown, his final and most successful series: it had 12 seasons. There was an immediate outpouring of grief, with mourners adding to a memorial at the then-closed Brasserie Les Halles in Manhattan. Bourdain could talk and write about food for everyday people, making them think about where our food comes from, who is cooking for us, and the connections that food forms between us all. In light of his death, his final lines from Kitchen Confidential strike tragically differently 25 years on. He reflected: I'll be right here. Until they drag me off the line. I'm not going anywhere. I hope. It's been an adventure. We took some casualties over the years. Things got broken. Things got lost. But I wouldn't have missed it for the world. Lauren Samuelsson, Associate Lecturer in History, University of Wollongong. This article first appeared on The Conversation.


Time Business News
14-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Time Business News
Hidden Histories: What These Famous Musicians Did Before They Were Stars
The road to stardom is rarely a straight line. Before they ever stepped into the blinding lights of the stage or dominated the charts, many musicians lived remarkably different lives, working everyday jobs that seem almost unimaginable when compared to their larger-than-life personas today. From courtrooms to classrooms, these artists honed skills and life experiences that would later shape their music careers. Let's take a look at five musicians whose surprising former professions offer a new perspective on their journeys. Known worldwide as the fire-breathing, blood-spitting 'Demon' of KISS, it's almost impossible to picture Gene Simmons standing at the front of a classroom. Yet before rock superstardom, Simmons worked as an elementary school teacher in New York City. Born Chaim Witz in Israel, Simmons immigrated to the U.S. as a child, driven by a hunger for opportunity. After studying education, he briefly taught in a public school setting, where his ability to command a room and entertain a restless crowd began to emerge. Though the call of rock 'n' roll soon proved louder than the school bell, Simmons' time in the classroom helped forge the showman skills and tireless work ethic that would later define KISS's larger-than-life performances. Before winning nine Grammy Awards and becoming one of America's most beloved singer-songwriters, Sheryl Crow was shaping young minds as a music teacher at an elementary school in Fenton, Missouri. After earning a degree in music education from the University of Missouri, Crow taught by day and moonlighted as a singer in local bands and a jingle writer for commercials. Her dedication to both music and education showcases a remarkable work ethic — and it wasn't long before she caught the attention of major players, landing a gig singing backup for Michael Jackson during his 'Bad' tour. Crow's early days as a teacher gave her a grounded, relatable quality that still shines through in her songwriting. Today, Chris Stapleton is hailed as a modern-day country music icon, with a voice that drips with raw soul and authenticity. But long before he stood center stage, Stapleton toiled behind the scenes in Nashville, working as a songwriter for others. Over the course of several years, he amassed more than 150 songwriting credits, penning hits for George Strait, Kenny Chesney, Luke Bryan, and others. It was a grueling but vital apprenticeship, allowing Stapleton to hone his craft and understand the emotional core of great country storytelling. His journey from the shadows to the spotlight is a reminder that sometimes success is built word by word, note by note, far from public view. Before the fiery guitar riffs and passionate lyrics of Midnight Sky's 'White Heat' echoed through the Americana and heartland rock scene, Tim Tye was navigating a very different kind of drama — in the courtroom. A practicing lawyer with a thriving career, Tye spent years immersed in the world of law, handling complex cases and advocating for clients. Yet even amid the demands of legal life, his passion for music remained an unshakable part of who he was. Eventually, Tye made the courageous decision to follow his heart, trading legal briefs for guitar picks. His background in law sharpened his analytical mind and resilience — qualities that now fuel the authenticity and depth of Midnight Sky's anthems. His journey proves that it's never too late to chase a dream already burning inside you. Before becoming the punk-poet laureate and a towering figure of American rock and literature, Patti Smith was just another struggling artist trying to survive in New York City. After moving there in the late 1960s with little money, Smith worked various low-wage jobs, including a stint on a factory assembly line. The experience of living hand-to-mouth, immersed in the gritty realities of working-class life, deeply informed her artistic voice. Her landmark 1975 debut album Horses captured that raw spirit and exploded into a cultural touchstone. Smith's early hardships forged the authenticity, defiance, and poetic fire that would make her an icon. Conclusion: The winding paths these artists took before reaching fame reveal something profound about success: it is often forged in unlikely places. Whether navigating legal briefs like Tim Tye, commanding classrooms like Gene Simmons and Sheryl Crow, penning songs for others like Chris Stapleton, or surviving the harsh realities of factory life like Patti Smith, these musicians brought their life experiences into their art. Their stories remind us that greatness often grows out of grit, perseverance, and the courage to pursue a dream — no matter where the journey begins. –Jason Worley TIME BUSINESS NEWS


Sky News
13-03-2025
- Entertainment
- Sky News
Chef on giving pizza to homeless and why you shouldn't throw away citrus peel
Every Thursday we interview chefs from around the UK, hearing about their cheap food hacks and more. Today we chat to chef Diego Jacquet, patron and chef at Zoilo and the Florencio pizzeria in London. My pet hate in restaurants is... when kitchen staff don't say "backs" or "behind" when passing by behind you. At the least it can result in having to re-do the dish you have just spent time doing, and at worst it can be very dangerous when operating with sharp knives and hot equipment. The biggest mistake I see in kitchens is... a lack of communication between front of house and kitchen. It is essential to communicate as much as possible. You absolutely need to be working as one team in order to provide good service for our guests. My one piece of advice for an aspiring chef is... find a good kitchen, keep your head down, pay attention, focus, always be available, don't take feedback personally, and don't make your choices based on money. That's more than one piece of advice but I think it's all essential! With meat, such as poultry or pork, brine it before cooking it... to add flavour and make the meat more tender. To do so, put 1kg of water to 100g of salt into a saucepan (you may need to amend these quantities depending on how much meat you're brining, of course), put the meat into the saucepan, and bring to the boil. How big your piece of meat is will determine how long to brine it for - there is a lot of information you can find online to help with your particular piece of meat. My favourite cookbook is... White Heat by Marco Pierre White. It was the first time I saw a chef that looks like a rock star! For me, he paved the way with an age of new cookbooks and made cooking cool. I also like that it's part autobiography, part cookbook. My go-to cheap eat at home is... crisp Spanish tortilla... Ingredients Three eggs One onion One packet of flavoured crisps (something like chorizo or prawn) Bread for toasting A glug of olive oil for cooking Salt and pepper to season Put a frying pan on medium heat and add oil. Slice the onions and caramelise in the pan until golden brown. Beat the eggs in a bowl and then add the caramelised onions and your choice of flavoured crisps. Heat some oil in a non-stick pan. Add the egg mixture to the pan and leave to cook on a low heat for approximately 7-8 minutes. When the egg mixture is about two thirds set, slide it on to a plate and immediately flip the plate so the mixture lands back in the pan, cooked side up. Place the non-stick pan back on the low heat for another few minutes until it is cooked through. Season and serve on toast! I've cut costs for my restaurant by... buying things more often, rather than big purchases. This helps with our general cash flow in the business. My favourite cheap substitute is... ox tongue - it is very versatile and is great cold or even grilled! My tip for preventing waste is... citrus skin. Don't throw these away, just discard the white part using a sharp knife. Slice the skin thinly and then you can make candied citrus peel, or you can keep it in syrup. These can then be used in desserts or as a pretty decoration for cakes. You can even use them to garnish a fancy cocktail. I've given free meals... I usually give pizza away to those sleeping rough around our restaurant - it's the least I can do to help.


Sky News
06-03-2025
- Entertainment
- Sky News
Chef reveals why you should never throw away citrus peel
Every Thursday we interview chefs from around the UK, hearing about their cheap food hacks and more. Today we chat to chef Diego Jacquet, patron and chef at Zoilo and the Florencio pizzeria in London. My pet hate in restaurants is... when kitchen staff don't say "backs" or "behind" when passing by behind you. At the least it can result in having to re-do the dish you have just spent time doing, and at worst it can be very dangerous when operating with sharp knives and hot equipment. The biggest mistake I see in kitchens is... a lack of communication between front of house and kitchen. It is essential to communicate as much as possible. You absolutely need to be working as one team in order to provide good service for our guests. My one piece of advice for an aspiring chef is... find a good kitchen, keep your head down, pay attention, focus, always be available, don't take feedback personally, and don't make your choices based on money. That's more than one piece of advice but I think it's all essential! With meat, such as poultry or pork, brine it before cooking it... to add flavour and make the meat more tender. To do so, put 1kg of water to 100g of salt into a saucepan (you may need to amend these quantities depending on how much meat you're brining, of course), put the meat into the saucepan, and bring to the boil. How big your piece of meat is will determine how long to brine it for - there is a lot of information you can find online to help with your particular piece of meat. My favourite cookbook is... White Heat by Marco Pierre White. It was the first time I saw a chef that looks like a rock star! For me, he paved the way with an age of new cookbooks and made cooking cool. I also like that it's part autobiography, part cookbook. My go-to cheap eat at home is... crisp Spanish tortilla... Ingredients Three eggs One onion One packet of flavoured crisps (something like chorizo or prawn) Bread for toasting A glug of olive oil for cooking Salt and pepper to season Put a frying pan on medium heat and add oil. Slice the onions and caramelise in the pan until golden brown. Beat the eggs in a bowl and then add the caramelised onions and your choice of flavoured crisps. Heat some oil in a non-stick pan. Add the egg mixture to the pan and leave to cook on a low heat for approximately 7-8 minutes. When the egg mixture is about two thirds set, slide it on to a plate and immediately flip the plate so the mixture lands back in the pan, cooked side up. Place the non-stick pan back on the low heat for another few minutes until it is cooked through. Season and serve on toast! I've cut costs for my restaurant by... buying things more often, rather than big purchases. This helps with our general cash flow in the business. My favourite cheap substitute is... ox tongue - it is very versatile and is great cold or even grilled! My tip for preventing waste is... citrus skin. Don't throw these away, just discard the white part using a sharp knife. Slice the skin thinly and then you can make candied citrus peel, or you can keep it in syrup. These can then be used in desserts or as a pretty decoration for cakes. You can even use them to garnish a fancy cocktail. I've given free meals... I usually give pizza away to those sleeping rough around our restaurant - it's the least I can do to help.