Latest news with #Zardozi
Fashion Value Chain
3 days ago
- Business
- Fashion Value Chain
Zari-Zardozi Craft in Surat: A Rich Tradition of Embroidery
Ms Purva Viral Patel, Fashion Management Scholar, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India The Zari-Zardozi craft of Surat, Gujarat, is a centuries-old embroidery tradition that reflects India's opulent cultural heritage. Originating in Persia and flourishing in India during the Mughal era, Zardozi (literally 'gold embroidery') uses gold and silver threads, sequins, beads, and pearls to create intricate patterns on fabrics like silk, satin, and velvet. Once reserved for royalty and religious ceremonies, the craft now adorns bridalwear, festive attire, home furnishings, and accessories. Surat, known as the Diamond City, is a significant textile hub in India. It is renowned for its vibrant culture, economic dynamism, and crafts like Bandhani, Patola, wood carving, sculpture, and silver jewellery alongside Zardozi. Zari embroidery has especially flourished in Surat due to its strong trade connections, skilled artisan base, and the influence of Persian and Mughal aesthetics. The craft was traditionally male-dominated, but today, many women artisans work from home-based workshops. Zari-making involves transforming gold, silver, or synthetic materials into threads. There are three main types: real zari (gold/silver), imitation zari (electroplated copper), and metallic/plastic zari (synthetic). Modern techniques ensure affordability and durability while preserving the craft's regal aesthetic. The zari yarn is made using various machines like twisting, coating, and laminating machines, and involves careful processes including thread coating, electroplating, and precision winding. Embroidery is done using a wooden frame called an 'adda,' where designs are transferred onto fabric using chalk and kerosene. The embroidery is executed with tools like needles and hook-tipped awls called 'ari,' which allow artisans to work on both sides of the fabric simultaneously. The motifs are rich in cultural symbolism, ranging from florals and paisleys to birds and abstract shapes. Designs are arranged in various layouts like borders, sides, and centers, with each piece demanding high attention to detail and time. Zardozi products are diverse: sarees, lehengas, kurtis, bridal wear, cushion covers, curtains, handbags, clutches, footwear, and religious items. The art form is appreciated for its visual richness and traditional charm, making it highly marketable both domestically and internationally. The Zariwala community in Surat has been instrumental in preserving this heritage. Despite their skill, artisans face challenges like low wages, market competition, lack of technological awareness, and limited youth interest. To counter these, organizations like the AMI Charitable Trust play a vital role in uplifting artisans by offering training, education, artisan cards, and opportunities for market access. Many women, once homemakers, now earn significant seasonal incomes by taking embroidery orders, particularly during weddings and festivals. The government has also supported the craft by granting Geographical Indication (GI) status to Surat's zari work, protecting its authenticity and boosting recognition. The GI tag not only safeguards the community's rights but also promotes exports and helps differentiate genuine Zari products in the global market. In conclusion, Zari-Zardozi is not just an embroidery technique but a cultural legacy that embodies centuries of tradition, artistry, and resilience. Its continued relevance in fashion and decor today is a testament to the skill of the artisans and the efforts of institutions and government schemes to sustain this living tradition.
Hans India
24-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Hans India
Aaliya Deeba launches 'Riwayat' – Where bridal couture becomes cultural legacy
Renowned couturier Aaliya Deeba, the unparalleled queen of Khada Dupattas and traditional bridal couture, proudly launches her latest collection, 'Riwayat – A Legacy in Every Thread.' This regal new bridal line is an homage to the heritage of Indian craftsmanship and a celebration of timeless bridal elegance. 'Riwayat', meaning tradition, is more than a name—it is a living narrative of culture, artistry, and grace. Every ensemble in the collection is a masterstroke, meticulously hand-embroidered with intricate Zardozi work using gold and silver threads. The opulent detailing, accentuated with pearls, sequins, and precious stones, evokes an era of royal grandeur and vintage sophistication, yet carries a freshness that resonates with the modern bride. Aaliya Deeba has long been celebrated for her signature Khada Dupattas, Shararas, and Ghararas, and in Riwayat, she redefines these classic silhouettes with finesse and thoughtful innovation. Each garment is a dialogue between the past and present—a tribute to the richness of Indian heritage, thoughtfully reimagined for the contemporary woman. 'This collection is a love letter to the traditions that shape our identity,' says Aaliya Deeba, reflecting on her design philosophy. 'Riwayat isn't just bridal wear—it's a story. A legacy passed from one generation to the next, captured in every thread, every motif, and every movement of fabric.' Aaliya Deeba's creative brilliance lies not just in reviving traditional forms but in elevating them to global couture standards. She seamlessly integrates the delicate skills of Indian artisans with Turkish and Persian embroidery influences, resulting in pieces that are ethereal yet grounded, traditional yet boldly relevant. Her creations have adorned prestigious runways and bridal exhibitions around the world, placing Indian craftsmanship at the heart of international fashion. Her commitment to preserving and celebrating the country's textile legacy has earned her acclaim as India's most celebrated bridal designer for heritage silhouettes. Riwayat is a bridal journey, one that invites every bride to connect with her roots while embracing her individuality. Whether it's a majestic Khada Dupatta adorned with Mughal-inspired motifs, a delicately embellished Sharara echoing Nawabi luxury, or a Gharara glowing with intricate gota and resham work—every piece in the collection tells a story of love, tradition, and transformation. As the wedding season approaches, Aaliya Deeba's Riwayat promises to be the definitive choice for brides who wish to wear not just couture, but culture—for those who understand that elegance is eternal and that the past can beautifully shape the future. Discover the legacy. Wear the story. Live the Riwayat.
Hindustan Times
26-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Hindustan Times
Journey of Zardozi: Wall art can be opulent too, says artist whose Zardozi painting was gifted to PM Narendra Modi
There's something about Zardozi that instantly signals richness. Historically stitched into the robes of royalty and bridal finery, the embroidery form has long been associated with celebration and ceremony. But now, this craft, once confined to fabric, is showing up elsewhere. In frames, on walls, and as standalone panels, Zardozi is shifting gears, finding a place in living rooms, art collections, and contemporary interiors. This piece looks at how Zardozi embroidery is evolving beyond cloth and into a new visual language for the home. A handcrafted Zardozi panel of the Mahakal temple finds pride of place as Madhya Pradesh's Chief Minister presents it to Prime Minister Narendra Modi — a quiet nod to India's living craft traditions.(Tajwar Khan) Historical tapestry: Roots in opulence Zardozi's story begins with Persian roots and blossoms under Mughal patronage in India. Its golden era featured heavy silks, brocades, velvets and the use of real gold and silver thread, often paired with pearls and semi-precious stones. This was the embroidery of emperors, of ceremonial grandeur and artistic excess. As monarchies dissolved and industrial textiles took over, Zardozi slowly lost its prime place in wardrobes, relegated to the occasional wedding trousseau or boutique ensemble. But some crafts don't go quietly, and Zardozi had more to say. The modern renaissance: A new canvas There's a growing shift in how we see art. Embroidered art no longer has to be wearable to be valued. And Zardozi, with its glimmering surfaces and tactile depth, has found a new identity beyond clothing. Artists and designers today are treating Zardozi like sculpture. Intricate panels that hold light, texture and memory all at once. 'Zardozi, at its heart, is about storytelling through thread,' says designer Tajwar Khan of Zee's by Tajwar Khan. 'What's exciting now is seeing how beautifully these stories can unfold not just on fabric, but on a canvas meant for display. It's proof that this technique still has room to grow and surprise us.' The artist's brand has become known for zardozi wall art, some of which has reached global platforms and prestigious homes. One of her embroidered panels of the Mahakal temple was recently presented to Prime Minister Narendra Modi by Madhya Pradesh CM Dr. Mohan Yadav. It is a quiet reminder of how far traditional techniques can travel when recontextualised. The modern appeal lies in the blend. Zardozi wall art adds that unmistakable shimmer, texture and handwork that machine-made decor can't replicate. In a world where walls are increasingly becoming gallery spaces, this art form steps in with character and clarity. When thread becomes texture and shimmer becomes art — a collection of Zardozi wall panels capturing stories, tradition and time in each stitch.(Tajwar Khan) Crafting beyond cloth: Technique and artistic expression The move from fabric to frame isn't seamless, though. The essence of Zardozi still relies on cloth. It is the only way to fix it onto an adda (embroidery frame) and get the needlework just right. But for wall art, the choice of cloth becomes more functional than fluid. 'The base always remains fabric,' says Tajwar, 'but it has to be sturdier to carry the weight of the embroidery and to last longer as wall decor. Velvet, raw silk and even chenille work beautifully. But flowy fabrics like chiffon, crepe or modal silk are a strict no for framed pieces.' Zardozi relies on metallic threads, beads and layering techniques that give it its signature three-dimensionality. When mounted on rigid surfaces, these elements play with light differently, often resembling sculpted motifs more than flat embroidery. The gold glints, shadows deepen, and what you get is an artwork that behaves almost like a low-lit chandelier. Quietly extravagant. Challenges and the way forward Zardozi's revival doesn't come without its pressures. There's the tightrope of keeping its roots intact while also adapting it for a modern audience. Fair wages for artisans, maintaining quality in scale, and keeping the younger generation invested in slow, labour-intensive craft are all real concerns. Yet, there's also optimism. 'We're seeing Indian handwork now being appreciated globally. Not just as textile, but as high art,' says Tajwar Khan. 'The shift is happening. And platforms like destination boutiques and craft-led government initiatives are giving voice to those who create but often go unheard.' Zardozi thrives in shared hands — a rare space where both men and women craft together, tied by tradition, skill and silent collaboration.(Tajwar Khan) 5 ways you can include Zardozi in your home decor 1. Framed wall art: Go for a single zardozi embroidery motif or an elaborate panel as a focal point in your living room or entryway. 2. Accent cushions: Swap out plain covers for velvet or raw silk cushions with Zardozi detailing to add depth and shimmer. 3. Table runners or placemats: A subtle way to add texture and tradition to your dining space without going overboard. 4. Upcycled pieces: Turn old Zardozi borders from sarees or dupattas into framed art or use them as trims on soft furnishings. 5. Mirror or photo frame inlays: Small touches of Zardozi on wooden or fabric-covered frames can bring a touch of craft into everyday corners. Similar articles for you 10 popular Indian art forms you can use in your home decor Why vintage decor is making a comeback: Textile museum designer Ravisha Merchant weighs in Best mattresses for a peaceful and comfortable sleep; Here are our top 8 picks for you Mattress matters: Find your dreamy match made in heaven; Nap like a champ! The author of this article holds a Master's Degree in Interior Design and has spent over a decade in research, teaching, and designing homes from scratch. Disclaimer: At Hindustan Times, we help you stay up-to-date with the latest trends and products. Hindustan Times has an affiliate partnership, so we may get a part of the revenue when you make a purchase. We shall not be liable for any claim under applicable laws, including but not limited to the Consumer Protection Act, 2019, concerning the products. The products listed in this article are in no particular order of priority.
Hindustan Times
20-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Hindustan Times
Who is Ruchi Gujjar? Meet the woman who wore the viral PM Modi necklace at the 2025 Cannes Film Festival
Designed with traditional Rajasthani motifs, the necklace combined heritage with a powerful modern symbol. It instantly went viral, sparking curiosity across platforms. Ruchi's lehenga, created by designer Roopa Sharmaa, was a deep gold ensemble richly embroidered with Gota Patti, mirror work, and intricate hand detailing. It reflected the regal artistry of Rajasthan, her home state. Completing the ensemble was a handcrafted Bandhani dupatta from the atelier of Zaribari, designed by Ram, and finished with ornate Zardozi embellishments. 'Wearing this dupatta felt like I was draping the soul of Rajasthan,' she said. Beyond the glamour, Ruchi Gujjar is carving a path in India's entertainment industry. A graduate of Maharani College in Jaipur, she moved to Mumbai to pursue her cinematic dreams. Now a model, actor, and former Miss Haryana 2023, she's most popularly known for her appearances in music videos like Jab Tu Meri Na Rahi and Heli Mein Chor. Her journey, however, hasn't been an easy one. Raised in a Gujjar family from Rajasthan, Ruchi had to challenge deep-seated cultural expectations to pursue a career in showbiz. 'Since I belong to a Gujjar family, there, women are not allowed to work as I am working,' she said in an interview with BollywoodMDB. 'It was difficult to change how people think about women working in Bollywood. I want to be an inspiration in our community, who fought against the will of people's thoughts. And I am the only one from my community who has come so far in the Bollywood industry.' A post shared by Ruchi Gujjar (@ruchigujjarofficial) She also opened up about the role her family played — especially her father — in helping her navigate the leap from a conservative hometown to the sets of Mumbai. 'My mother was very scared when I said I wanted to go to Mumbai to work in Bollywood; however, she's quite proud of me that I've come so far. My father has always been very supportive since day one, now my entire family are supporting me,' she said. Now, with a few music videos under her belt and growing recognition, Ruchi is setting her sights even higher. 'I want to work in South movies since audiences love them, and I'd love to work in South movies,' she said. Ruchi's Modi necklace may have made headlines for its boldness, but for her, it was more than a fashion statement — it was a message. She further explained, 'Prime Minister Modi has redefined India's image across the world. I wanted to carry that pride with me, and this necklace was my tribute to his leadership. Representing Rajasthan and India at Cannes is not just a moment for me—it's a message to the world about who we are.' What do you think about this outfit?
Mint
06-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Mint
Met Gala 2025: Isha Ambani stuns in gem-laden outfit; Alia Bhatt reacts, netizens ask ‘Where's the necklace from'
Mukesh Ambani's daughter and Reliance Limited Director Isha Ambani's presence at Met Gala 2025 was a sight to to behold as she walked the red carpet in designer Anamika Khanna's creation considering this year's 'Tailored for you' theme. The spotlight was also on her diamond necklace she wore. The tailored jacket with its crisp collar, combined with the finely embroidered waistcoat, achieved an ideal blend of vintage sophistication and contemporary style. Inspired by African textiles and global craftsmanship, Isha's outfit was a true tribute to artistry. The corset, adorned with intricate geometric patterns, offered a subtle yet powerful nod to the overarching theme. She preferred dewy makeup and tied her hair in a long braid. The ensemble reportedly took 20,000 hours of intricate embroidery, adorned with pearls, semi-precious stones, and heirloom gems that infused the look with undeniable glamour. Many of these embellishments were sourced from the Ambani family's private collection, lending a deeply personal and luxurious touch to the creation. 'We used a little bit of semi-precious stones, some traditional pearl work, and drew inspiration from Black dandy style—the small elements they incorporated, the reasons behind their choices," Vogue India quoted the designer as saying. In some photos, she was spotted in white hat. One of the users said, 'She is class apart.' Another stated, 'Absolutely slayed.' Others remarked, 'The necklace??? where is that from? why is not mentioned", Uff the iconic Nawanagar necklace', 'confused, who's the art', 'Breathtakingly stunning'. An Instagram user commented, 'Iconic for sure." Alia Bhatt commented, 'Unreal.' In 2024, she turned to renowned designer Rahul Mishra to craft a floral sari gown for her. Isha's look 'embraced sustainability by incorporating elements from Rahul's past collections. Delicate samples of flowers, butterflies, and dragonflies were meticulously integrated from the archives into the design, via distinct applique and embroidery techniques, such as Fareesha, Zardozi, Nakshi, and Dabka, as well as French knots. Together, all of these elements carry a powerful narrative about the state of the planet and offer a message of hope and rebirth'. First Published: 6 May 2025, 07:15 AM IST
