Zari-Zardozi Craft in Surat: A Rich Tradition of Embroidery

Fashion Value Chain

2 days ago

Ms Purva Viral Patel,
Fashion Management Scholar,
National Institute of Fashion Technology,
Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India
The Zari-Zardozi craft of Surat, Gujarat, is a centuries-old embroidery tradition that reflects India's opulent cultural heritage. Originating in Persia and flourishing in India during the Mughal era, Zardozi (literally 'gold embroidery') uses gold and silver threads, sequins, beads, and pearls to create intricate patterns on fabrics like silk, satin, and velvet. Once reserved for royalty and religious ceremonies, the craft now adorns bridalwear, festive attire, home furnishings, and accessories.
Surat, known as the Diamond City, is a significant textile hub in India. It is renowned for its vibrant culture, economic dynamism, and crafts like Bandhani, Patola, wood carving, sculpture, and silver jewellery alongside Zardozi. Zari embroidery has especially flourished in Surat due to its strong trade connections, skilled artisan base, and the influence of Persian and Mughal aesthetics. The craft was traditionally male-dominated, but today, many women artisans work from home-based workshops.
Zari-making involves transforming gold, silver, or synthetic materials into threads. There are three main types: real zari (gold/silver), imitation zari (electroplated copper), and metallic/plastic zari (synthetic). Modern techniques ensure affordability and durability while preserving the craft's regal aesthetic. The zari yarn is made using various machines like twisting, coating, and laminating machines, and involves careful processes including thread coating, electroplating, and precision winding.
Embroidery is done using a wooden frame called an 'adda,' where designs are transferred onto fabric using chalk and kerosene. The embroidery is executed with tools like needles and hook-tipped awls called 'ari,' which allow artisans to work on both sides of the fabric simultaneously. The motifs are rich in cultural symbolism, ranging from florals and paisleys to birds and abstract shapes. Designs are arranged in various layouts like borders, sides, and centers, with each piece demanding high attention to detail and time.
Zardozi products are diverse: sarees, lehengas, kurtis, bridal wear, cushion covers, curtains, handbags, clutches, footwear, and religious items. The art form is appreciated for its visual richness and traditional charm, making it highly marketable both domestically and internationally.
The Zariwala community in Surat has been instrumental in preserving this heritage. Despite their skill, artisans face challenges like low wages, market competition, lack of technological awareness, and limited youth interest. To counter these, organizations like the AMI Charitable Trust play a vital role in uplifting artisans by offering training, education, artisan cards, and opportunities for market access. Many women, once homemakers, now earn significant seasonal incomes by taking embroidery orders, particularly during weddings and festivals.
The government has also supported the craft by granting Geographical Indication (GI) status to Surat's zari work, protecting its authenticity and boosting recognition. The GI tag not only safeguards the community's rights but also promotes exports and helps differentiate genuine Zari products in the global market.
In conclusion, Zari-Zardozi is not just an embroidery technique but a cultural legacy that embodies centuries of tradition, artistry, and resilience. Its continued relevance in fashion and decor today is a testament to the skill of the artisans and the efforts of institutions and government schemes to sustain this living tradition.