Latest news with #kimchi
Telegraph
22-05-2025
- General
- Telegraph
William Sitwell reviews Dongnae, Bristol: ‘The freshest spring shower of a feast imaginable'
It was a Damascene-like corrective. My mind and body altered, albeit on the single issue of fermented cabbage. For years I'd been swerving it. Firstly, because it involves cabbage, the vegetable that traumatised my childhood (overcooked as it was and force-fed to me) and then because it became trendy some 15 years ago. Suddenly, kimchi was everywhere. Every tattooed, unshaven mockney running a pop-up in London was serving it up. Korean food was in, crowned with a relish of cabbage, presumably dug into the ground at allotments in Hackney and then, suitably festering, brought to the surface, covered in chilli and bottled. All of sound mind – of which I was alone in the fashion-craven food world – declined it. But now, some years on, I find myself eyeing it on a table in a suburb of Bristol. The Korean revolution has now reached Chandos Road, and Dongnae, which means 'neighbourhood', offers a menu brimming with small plates, stuff from the charcoal grill, banchan (side dishes), shiksa (mains, essentially) and two puds. And a wonderfully colourful culinary experience it is too. While the outside is that of a classic Victorian shopfront, inside it's all minimal, handcrafted cabinetry, hardwood and white laminate tables, with slats screening the open kitchen. And the service is helpful and friendly, giving off that vibe you get from a university town where the students are still duped into thinking life holds some possibilities, jobs even. A starter of bream sashimi was as soft, translucent and tenderly flavoured as you might dream, and with excellent wasabi. And there were skewers of octopus and monkfish, tender and sweet in a glaze of gochucumin (a warming, devilish concoction pepped up with red chilli) and covered in crunchy chopped chives. I'd seen the word jellyfish on the menu so felt the urge to order what we would never eat at home. It came in the form of 'salted jellyfish naengchae', a salad with pork hock and Devon crab buddying up. While the crab added some sweetness, the ham and other leaves with their soft textures all conspired to camouflage the jellyfish, to mask – or indeed excuse – it. But find it I did. And all this I did selflessly so that you don't have to. I ate it in all its rubbery, chewy, seawatery glory. And, frankly, if you must know, I'd rather have been stung by it. Yet it was a segue to greatness, the centrepiece of which was wagyu beef – and not insanely priced – a strip loin from the grill presented on a handsome piece of firm wire mesh fixed in wood. The beef caressed the palate before melting. It was rich and satisfying and a dish that makes one simply admire a vegetarian for their willpower. It came with a host of little dishes: of sauce and raw garlic, chilli and verdant salad leaves. You could wrap it all up, adjust to your garlic/heat spec and stuff it all in. The freshest spring shower of a feast imaginable. Then came that kimchi, rich and hot and adding a deeply exotic texture to the table, and yet more – dongchimi – fresher and in brine. Both slapping me in the face for my history of churlish refusal. There was also deep-fried Korean chicken wings and a wonderful plate of asparagus in an eggy sauce, topped with milky trout roe. We finished with a rice pud, another childhood horror rectified to creamy glory with a tart jam of persimmon and a scattering of dried red beans. Dongnae, from price and vibe to design and flavour, is beautifully pitched.
Yahoo
08-05-2025
- Health
- Yahoo
Beets, peaches, okra and watermelon: 11 fruits and vegetables you should be pickling (besides cucumbers)
The first person to soak the humble cucumber in some vinegar couldn't in their wildest dreams have predicted the Picklewich, pickle ice cream or pickle Bloody Marys, but here we are. Pickles aren't just trendy; salt content aside, they're also pretty good for you. And — as grocery costs rise and shoppers look for more ways to extend the shelf life of their food — pickling not just cukes but also other produce might be one of the most practical things you can do in the kitchen. The question is ... how should you get started? What exactly should you be pickling? And what's the best way to enjoy your pickled fruit and veg? Here's what experts say. The first thing you need to understand is that there are two ways to pickle foods: quick pickling (involving a brine that typically features vinegar, salt and sugar) and fermentation. While both preparations offer some health benefits, fermented foods in particular are associated with good gut health and reduced inflammation. 'Fermented pickles use a heavily salted brine that supports a healthy gut because it's filled with both probiotics and prebiotics,' says Erika Dudley, president of the board of directors for Urban Growers Collective. 'The more we learn about our guts, the more we've seen the added health benefits to our immune system, metabolism and even mental health.' Some naturally fermented foods rich in probiotics — live microorganisms that restore the balance of healthy bacteria in the gut — include kimchi and sauerkraut, while pickled onions, artichokes and leeks are a source of prebiotics, or fiber that nourishes healthy gut bacteria. But don't sleep on quick-pickled foods. Sarah Bond, a food scientist, nutritionist and recipe developer at Live Eat Learn, tells Yahoo Life that even non-fermented quick pickles can offer "potential blood sugar support thanks to the acetic acid in vinegar, which may help slow glucose absorption." Pickling also helps seasonal produce last longer, reduces food waste and makes it easier to get more fruits and vegetables — and the nutrients contained within — in your diet. A lot of it comes down to personal preference, but here's what our experts love pickling most: The benefits: Vitamins A, K1 and B6; lutein for eye health; fiber; potassium; contain antioxidants including beta carotene Pickling pro tip: America's Test Kitchen recommends refrigerating pickled carrots up to three weeks; any longer and the flavoring can become "funky" Try it: As a garnish for curried deviled eggs The benefits: Radishes — which run the gamut from daikon to watermelon varieties — are low-calorie and high in vitamin C, per Healthline Pickling pro tip: Don't overlook radish greens, which deliver a peppery kick to salads, pasta dishes, quiche and more Try it: Pickled radishes can add color and crunch to a noodle or rice bowl; you might also layer some on your avocado toast The benefits: Did you know okra has protein? It's also a good source of fiber, magnesium, folate, and vitamins A, C, K and B6 Pickling pro tip: Think okra is too slimy? The Takeout suggests choosing shorter okra pods, which have less mucilage, and patting them dry before adding them to your pickling jar Try it: Southern Living's pimiento cheese-stuffed pickled okra has our mouths watering The benefits: Beets are high in folate, manganese and copper; may help keep blood pressure in check; and are associated with improved athletic performance Pickling pro tip: TastingTable suggests using golden beets if you're wary of turning your countertops pink Try it: Got last-minute company? Spread goat cheese on toasted sourdough, top with pickled beets from your stash and you've got a fancy (but low-fuss) hors d'oeuvre The benefits: Asparagus is packed with antioxidants and is a great source of fiber and folate Pickling pro tip: Your spears should face up, per Chowhound, which also recommends using any remaining pickling liquid to give vegetable soup a tangy twist Try it: Add chopped asparagus to your fave salad or creamy pasta, or take the Pioneer Woman's suggestion and stick a pickled spear in your Bloody Mary The benefits: Onions are rich in vitamin C, folate and other important nutrients and are considered beneficial for heart health, bone density and more Pickling pro tip: Per Chowhound, you should slice your onions very thinly and add them to a hot brine on the stovetop for a super-quick pickle Try it: Bored with your go-to coleslaw recipe? TastingTable says adding pickled red onions can be "transformative" The benefits: Garlic contains vitamin C, vitamin B6 and manganese, and research supports claims that it may benefit your immune system, cholesterol levels and more Pickling pro tip: According to Daily Meal, pickled garlic can last up to four months in the fridge Try it: Want some heat? TikToker Lala is credited with kickstarting the spicy pickled garlic trend, in which the brine is drained from the jar and sriracha and chili flakes are mixed in with the garlic for a powerful punch The benefits: In addition to being vitamin packed, green tomatoes feature polyphenols, a type of antioxidant Pickling pro tip: Want to pickle like an Italian? TastingTable says it's all about layering your tomatoes and salt like a lasagna Try it: Pickling your green tomatoes before frying them can make your fried green tomato sandwich extra tangy (and beats a basic BLT any day) The benefits: Plums are rich in nutrients and antioxidants, and are a solid source of vitamin C Pickling pro tip: Mashed suggests adding cinnamon, cloves or star anise to your brine Try it: Serve your pickled plums with pork or duck. The benefits: In addition to being hydrating, watermelon has lots of vitamin C and antioxidants (including lycopene) that may reduce your risk of cancer and improve your cardiovascular health Pickling pro tip: Don't forget the rind! As the Takeout notes, pickled rind can liven up a charcuterie board, be added to salads or go in a slaw (like the one topping Food & Wine's chicken lettuce wraps) Try it: Daily Meal's pickled watermelon salad features arugula, feta and chopped walnuts — yum! The benefits: Vitamin C, vitamin A, fiber, potassium, good-for-you antioxidants ... the list goes on Pickling pro tip: According to the pros at TastingTable, it's OK to not peel your peaches first Try it: Country Living's grilled pork topped with pickled peaches is hard to resist. For dessert, skip the sprinkles and top your vanilla ice cream with any leftover fruit Once you've decided on what you want to pickle, you need to choose how you want to pickle it: A quick pickle or more time-intensive canning process? According to Jorge Azevedo, CEO of Fermented Food Holdings, the former is "the most beginner-friendly" option. "All you need is to make the vinegar-based brine, season to taste and fill [your] jar with it,' he tells Yahoo Life. He recommends using wide-mouth Mason jars, available at most grocery stores; these should preferably be sterilized with boiling water prior to use. Bond also says to make sure you have labels on hand so you can write down what you've got and when you made it. She offers this quick-and-easy formula for quick pickling (no canning required): Pack clean jars with sliced produce Heat a mixture of vinegar (depending on your preference), water, salt and sugar until dissolved Pour the brine over the produce, making sure everything is submerged Cool to room temp, then refrigerate The pickled produce will be tasty within a few hours, but it's best after one to two days Shelf life can vary according to recipe, so be sure to keep track of how long your pickled fruit or vegetables have been going (which is where those labels come in handy) And take timing into consideration. 'For best results, aim to pickle the veggies when they are at their peak — typically during the summer months when spring and summer harvests are at their freshest,' says Azevedo. Bond recommends pickling cucumbers, berries and peaches in the spring and summer months, and beets, carrots and radishes in the fall and winter. You can also look up when your preferred produce is in season and pickle accordingly. When it comes to vinegar, Bond — who has pickling guidance on her website — prefers "rice vinegar for something mild, or apple cider vinegar for a fruity twist." But feel free to experiment with different recipes; you might prefer a white or red vinegar. And don't forget spices, which can add complexity to your pickled produce. 'Some of the most common spices to add to your pickles are dill, whole black peppercorns, mustard seeds, coriander seeds, allspice berries, red chili flakes, bay leaves, granulated garlic, whole garlic and grape leaves,' says Azevedo. Dudley is a big fan of mixing things up. 'One of my favorites is pickled peaches done two ways: traditional Southern style with cloves and cinnamon, and then a modern twist with tarragon and scented geraniums,' she says. She also loves cha cha (aka chow chow), a relish made from pickled cabbage, peppers, onions and carrots. Dudley's other favorite combinations include: Okra with cardamom, cumin and mustard seeds (for Indian flavors) Watermelon with ginger, lemon, star anise and cinnamon Green tomatoes with dill and lemon verbena Zucchini with cilantro and garlic
