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A man's guide to looking sharp at summer weddings, from elegant tuxedos to casual linen
A man's guide to looking sharp at summer weddings, from elegant tuxedos to casual linen

Irish Times

timea day ago

  • Entertainment
  • Irish Times

A man's guide to looking sharp at summer weddings, from elegant tuxedos to casual linen

Summer from July to September is the time for weddings – there were more than 7,000 in Ireland in the summer of 2023, the most popular month being August. It's obvious why; the days are long, the weather (mostly) good, gardens and countryside are looking their best, and being holiday time, the mood is festive. Today's trends mean matrimonial events are often spread out over several days, so it's not just the wedding day celebrations that demand some sartorial thought if you're one of the male guests. Dress codes vary but need to be considered. Louis Copeland says he has never seen so many black-tie Irish weddings as this year. 'I think it's because people can't go wrong with a tuxedo and bow tie. It's easier and more elegant.' In his opinion, 'check suits with brown shoes are terrible. The groom has to stand out, so any tie, for instance, should be different to that of the groom. If the wedding is abroad, linen suits are more casual.' He cautions against shorts and football jerseys at prior and post events. 'Most people enjoy the day after, everybody is more relaxed and can let their hair down, but you have to think of those photos in a few years' time.' Male personal shopper Eider Lette says modern weddings balance tradition with a more relaxed atmosphere, 'so blending formal and casual elements feel perfectly appropriate', though he cautions against bold colours if the setting is formal. READ MORE Black-tie attire: black dress suit (€1,145) and a tuxedo slim-fit white shirt (€230), from Louis Copeland Three-piece beige herringbone suit (€1,699), slim-fit pinpoint white shirt (€159), Brown penny loafers (€520), from Louis Copeland He recommends a suit in a classic block colour paired with an open-neck shirt and smart, classic shoes. 'If the wedding is more formal or black tie, I would recommend a crisp, closed-up shirt with a bow tie or traditional medium-width tie, avoiding loud colours.' The importance of good fit when it comes to suits cannot be overstated (a made-to-measure suit always looks the best as it is tailored to your shape), but a blazer with smart-casual trousers is a good alternative. Edward Hussey of Irish men's wear company Beggars Run agrees that no guest should steal the groom's limelight. 'The blue suit is the classic choice, but it can be tweaked with accessories like a pocket square or a tie which make it a little more fun.' [ Meet the Irish tailors making strides in contemporary suiting Opens in new window ] He also argues the case for green. 'It is always a good substitute without being too wild. Tuxedos in dark green with black trousers are that little bit different and so is dark brown, a colour now associated with luxury even in interiors. Men tend to be conservative and want suits that are versatile and can be worn to other events during the year.' Known for colourful tailoring and made-to-measure classics, Beggars Run do a lot of corduroy. 'It has casual associations, but when tailored it can be very sharp, particularly if you add a waistcoat. Lads like it because of its lustre and that it is firmer in shape and more approachable than velvet.' Velvet jackets have become popular with some men 'because it adds a dash of raciness and elegance'. Green chalk stripe suit (€1,149) with peaked lapel. Bengal stripe shirt (€219), brown leather penny loafers (€520), from Louis Copeland Bronze wool/silk/linen jackets (€699), fitted barstripe beige shirt (€169), white cotton chinos (€279), from Louis Copeland Duke blue flannel suit (€1,320) from Beggars Run [ Brianna Parkins: How to plan a wedding, without breaking the bank Opens in new window ] While some might think wool should be avoided in warm weather, Hussey disagrees. 'We do what we call a light alfresco wool called tropical wool – it's all about the weave and doesn't crease up, so it is ideal for summer weddings.' His final word of advice concerns shoes. 'They should not distract, ideally should be black or dark oxblood. And with summer weddings, brown suede shoes with a dark suit look good – it's important to allocate a bit of money for a good pair.' Celebratory dressing for summer nuptials and looking your best should be fun – and there is always the option to rent rather than buy. But don't forget the shades, and to have a decent umbrella on standby. Four weddings and a baby shower: the financial pressure of too many invites Listen | 19:56 Is the cost of attending weddings getting out of control?

A gentleman's guide to three-piece suit etiquette
A gentleman's guide to three-piece suit etiquette

Telegraph

time3 days ago

  • Entertainment
  • Telegraph

A gentleman's guide to three-piece suit etiquette

The three-piece suit needs a bit of rescuing, the format having been hijacked by the Instagram manosphere and estate agents. We are an awfully long way from Indiana Jones in his Raiders of the Lost Ark professorial garb and, like a lot of the sartorial canon, various codes have been forgotten. The first thing to know is that a three-piece suit is the least formal of suit styles, perfectly demonstrated by Tom Hardy with his excellent and discerning use of RRL, a range from Ralph Lauren that's designed to be somewhat informal and more 'rustic'. This is the rule for both lounge suit and black tie, followed by double-breasted suits and two-piece single-breasted varieties. However, this wasn't always the case. The wearing of a waistcoat was essential in the nascent years of suiting because of a decree in October 1666 by King Charles II, mandating the wearing of a waistcoat for gentlemen. We know this because it was noted in Samuel Pepys' diary, reminding us of a time where people remembered to memorialise the more important matters. In the Regency era to much of the Victorian, order of the day for established houses was morning dress (a riding outfit - the morning was when gentlemen rode out) or frock coat in the daytime, and white tie in the evening, all requiring a waistcoat. As morning dress was replaced by the lounge suit and the frock coat was more or less isolated to the Court, the waistcoat was no longer a certainty in a man's daily wardrobe. In 1856, Edward VII commissioned Henry Poole to make him an 'evening lounge suit' in midnight blue, as he disliked dressing in white tie and preferred the growing trend of tailless jackets. Black tie was born, and waistcoats also began to fall out of favour for evening wear. More on 'Dirty Bertie' later. This heritage might explain the consensus that the wearing of a three-piece suit is occasion wear, which is why it's so prevalent at weddings. The hard-man credentials of Peaky Blinders have also made a lot of men feel confident that it's an agreeable way to dress up without losing any machismo. Whether you align with Tom Hardy and wear it casually, or want to wear the three-piece for something formal, there are rules that need to be kept in mind. Button know-how This is where we return to our wonderfully short-lived but sartorially consequential monarch, Edward VII. The question surrounding waistcoats often has to do with the bottom button. There are various disputes around the origin of this, but allow me to dispel things once and for all. Edward VII was perfectly able to wear the bottom button done up, no matter how large he was, his tailor would have taken it into account and an extra button would have made no difference at all. In fact, it was popped open for riding. This could easily have been for comfort but that is not necessarily a weight issue, rather the traditions of higher buttoning on riding garments - see morning coats, paddock-cut jackets and hunting pinks - which all need raised buttons for comfort in a sedentary position. The unbuttoning of the waistcoat therefore indicated you were a man of good standing who rode, and so everyone wanted to follow suit. Just to confuse things a bit, this does not apply to double-breasted waistcoats; they must all be done up. The smartest button stance is a three-button (six altogether) angled stance in a V shape, rather than the straight buttoning you see often from fashion designers. Fit check One of the biggest fashion faux pas is the sight of a man's shirt peeking out beneath the lapel and above the trousers. It is as much of a sartorial shortfall as the triangle of death – the triangle of white above the waistline and single-breasted jacket button, betraying the jacket as too small. This is very much how a certain tight-suited, Love Island hopeful might dress. One issue is that many brands make trousers that have what is called 'a low rise', i.e. the distance between the crotch and the top of the zip is short. What a man needs are trousers that are cut higher, ideally with pleats and held up by braces, to avoid this sloppy look. The lapel debate Old school aesthetes like my father, the kind that see everything through the prism of what is allowed in the officer's mess, would die on the hill against lapels on waistcoats. The lapel debate has more to do with opinion rather than actual etiquette, and truthfully, far be it from me to speak ill of my father's opinions on style, I think this is a misstep. It is true that a single-breasted lapel should have a very small lapel, if one at all, but a double-breasted waistcoat must have one, and the prouder the better. Accessorising The Roaring Lion by Yousuf Karsh is considered one of the greatest portrait photographs of all time; Winston Churchill's moody look is because just before it was taken, Karsh removed Churchill's cigar from his mouth. What stands out the most in this image is the chain which travels across the pockets, dipping to create a W shape. Whether a pocket watch, a lighter, a Champagne swizzle stick or cigar cutter, the chain is legitimate accessorising for waistcoats. The chain should travel from the left pocket to the first button hole that sits above the line of the pocket, and then if there is a fob, it should dangle down. If long enough, it can then be passed to the opposite pocket. One form of accessorising is a more outre design of waistcoat. This is, and should remain, the domain of the prefects of Eton College, known as 'Pop', who are allowed to wear whatever design of waistcoat they like in order to distinguish their authority (and boy do they take advantage of that freedom). You also had Sixth Form Select who were the 'other' prefects, selected due to academic achievement, and they could wear silver buttons. Keep it simple on civvy street; yours should match the jacket and trouser of the suit, and with morning dress should be a pastel colour such as sky blue. Where to find inspiration Watch every episode of Jeeves & Wooster for a categoric reminder of proper classic style, and there is plenty of three-piece action in there for you to see. Further watching should be the aforementioned Indiana Jones, Jude Law as Dumbledore in the Harry Potter offshoot Fantastical Beasts (seriously, a great men's style reference), and the original Great Gatsby. For non-fiction references, look to Churchill of course, and then his Tory successor Anthony Eden. Tom Hardy is definitely a solid inspiration for men who want to avoid the dandyish look. Just remember that tweed and heavier wools are much more preferable for a three-piece suit, so in the summer look for what are known as 'high twist wools', which allow for breathability. Full linen will crease too easily, so travel fabrics like Fresco wool are ideal. The three-piece suit may feel like dress up, but perhaps with a little bit of historic enlightenment and better knowledge of the rules, you can channel your Bertie or Tom Hardy and never let anyone take your cigar without asking permission.

Phoebe Burgess shows off her VERY bold lips as she turns heads in unusual pyjama inspired ensemble at Australian Fashion Week
Phoebe Burgess shows off her VERY bold lips as she turns heads in unusual pyjama inspired ensemble at Australian Fashion Week

Daily Mail​

time12-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Daily Mail​

Phoebe Burgess shows off her VERY bold lips as she turns heads in unusual pyjama inspired ensemble at Australian Fashion Week

Phoebe Burgess always pushes the envelope when it comes to her eclectic sartorial tastes. And on Monday, the former WAG ensured all eyes were on her as she attended Australian Fashion Week. The 37-year-old arrived for the Carla Zampatti show dressed to the nines in some bright loungewear. Phoebe chose a bold blue and red jumpsuit which sat close to her figure and featured a pussy bow at the neck as well as a wide legged cut. It was hard to miss her dramatic lip look, with Phoebe coating her ample, over-lined put with a dark pink lipstick. She chose a glowing makeup look with lots of highlighter and bronzed cheeks while wearing her blonde hair down in a casual, beachy do. The budding infleuncer added a pair of white heels and carried a designer purse, otherwise keeping her accessories light. Phoebe is a loving mother to two children, Poppy, eight, and Billy, six, who she shares with her ex-husband Sam Burgess. On Friday, she gushed over her own mum Sarah's support as she prepared to celebrate Mother's Day. The journalist-turned-influencer told The Daily Telegraph, her mother's role in her life is 'more important than ever' as she helps Phoebe raise her kids. 'I need her more than ever, and not in a way like when you're younger... but I get to bring my daughter home and she goes straight out into the horse arena with my mum who's taught her everything she knows about riding to this point,' she said. 'My son wakes up at 5.30 in the morning and puts his boots on with his jammies to feed the horses with my mum. 'She's definitely raising my kids with me which is so special.' Phoebe went on to say her mother Sarah is her 'rock' and described her as 'so self sacrificing'. It comes after Phoebe's ex Sam revealed he was expecting his second child with his hairdresser wife Lucy. Sam, who is coaching Warrington in the UK's Super League, was married to Phoebe for four years before they split in 2019. Sam and Lucy recently enjoyed a babymoon together in Capri, Italy, with Lucy sharing photos of the lavish getaway to Instagram. In the images, the new bride, who married Sam just six months ago, was absolutely glowing. The 33-year-old NRL WAG showed off her growing baby bump in a figure-hugging lace dress with a plunging neckline. She cradled her baby bump and took in the breathtaking coastal views from their hotel balcony. Another image showed the hairdresser's bare bump in a loved-up mirror selfie with Sam, 36. A third photo captured the married couple lounging in the sun by the beach, while a fourth depicted them relaxing by a pool. 'A perfect weekend in Capri,' she captioned her post. The pair already share daughter Robbie, who they welcomed in September 2023. Sam married Lucy in a lavish Italian wedding after two years of dating. He proposed to Lucy in June 2023, just nine months after they went public with their relationship.

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