Latest news with #Łódź
Telegraph
3 hours ago
- Politics
- Telegraph
Warsaw has reclaimed its position as a proud capital
Well-meaning outsiders sometimes warn visitors to Poland to stick to Kraków, overflowing with splendid historical buildings, and avoid Warsaw – 'another boring capital city', as one writer phrased it to me. Ignore them. Kraków is charming, in the way that reliquaries of the past tend to be. But Warsaw is a monument to Polish perseverance – a sprawling symbol of the indefatigability of Europe's most successful post-Cold War nation. To appreciate Warsaw's 21st-century revival, consider what the city endured and overcame in the 20th. Months before he shot himself, Hitler ordered its total destruction. Even as Germany's fate was being sealed, the Führer's marauders executed his instruction to raze the Polish capital 'without trace' with murderous zeal. The city was dynamited block by block. Universities were blown up. Schools were torn down. Libraries were set on fire. Historical monuments were obliterated. Houses were pillaged. Survivors were crammed into trains and deported to concentration camps. When it was over, Warsaw – the site of the most gallant uprising of the Second World War – was a pile of dust and debris. It would have been easier to relocate the capital, and the Moscow-backed government that seized Poland briefly moved its operations to Łódź. Varsovians, however, remained defiant. In 1945, they organised an exhibition in their ruined city. 'Warsaw does not lament, it does not complain,' the event proclaimed, 'but before the tribunal of nations Warsaw Accuses'. General Eisenhower, one of the 43,000 visitors to the show, described the state of Warsaw as 'far more tragic than anything I have seen' in Europe. Not for long. Poles expelled from the city returned, cleared the rubble by hand, buried the dead, and began rebuilding Warsaw brick by brick. They compelled the government to support them by the sheer force of their example. Some buildings were resurrected as facsimiles of the destroyed originals. But the animating ideology of reconstruction was Soviet socialism, and, after a period of frenzied activity, Warsaw became stagnant. A symbol of this slump was Hotel Bristol. Housed in a neo-Renaissance building that opened in 1901, it once numbered among the city's grandest buildings – and was one of the handful to survive the Nazi rampage of 1944. By the 1980s, it had become so derelict that it had to be boarded up and abandoned. Warsaw itself degenerated into a drab city whose centrepiece was a Stalinist tower bequeathed as a 'gift' from the Soviet Union. The fall of communism stimulated a second revival. Varsovians seized the moment: they converted the Communist Party headquarters into the country's new stock exchange, and opened casinos inside the Stalinist behemoth. A cluster of glass-clad skyscrapers proliferated around them. Despite the recent election of the social conservative Karol Nawrocki as Poland's next president, Warsaw remains a haven for minorities. 'I am of course very uncomfortable,' a gay student at Warsaw University told me a day after the result. 'But this is Warsaw, and we still feel safe in Warsaw.' 'This city', another dejected voter told me, 'gives us hope'. Politics can conceal Poland's extraordinary achievement. Its GDP is rapidly approaching $1 trillion. The living standards of its people are the envy of Europeans. The Polish army is larger than the armed forces of Britain. Poles who emigrated abroad in search of opportunity at the start of the century are now drifting home. Some are running successful businesses – cocktail bars, breweries, restaurants – at home. Others are investing in the technologies of the future. A Canadian tourist was so impressed by the city that he was considering moving his business there. 'I have not seen a place with such work ethic,' he told me. Warsaw, reduced to the ground within the lifetime of many of its elderly citizens, has reclaimed its position as the proud capital of a great country.
Daily Mail
10 hours ago
- Daily Mail
EXCLUSIVE I've solo travelled to over 60 countries - there's an underrated European city that feels like you're in South America
Solo travel is having a moment; never has it been more written about, talked about, and tagged on social media. But, while travelling alone as a woman is not a new phenomenon, there are certainly many more people willing to travel solo than ever before. The problem is, unlike the rugged adventures of pioneers like cyclist and author Dervla Murphy or travel writer Martha Gellhorn, many of today's solo travellers prioritise shiny Insta backdrops and photoshoots, over connecting with local people, or delving into the culture and history of a place. From the heavily-touristic capitals of Paris and Rome, to little-visited Polish and Romanian gems, over the past 20 years, I've visited more than 60 countries, and over 30 European cities. Some impress with ornate and ancient buildings, intriguing street art and great food. But, unfortunately, many now overflow with spots geared up for social media - all style and no substance. So if you're looking to escape the crowds for a culture-filled, solo-friendly trip that won't break the bank, these are my top picks. Łódź, Poland As soon as I arrived in the Polish town of Łódź (pronounced 'woodge'), I knew I was going to love it. Filled with over 30 large-scale street art murals by talented global and local artists, Łódź draws creative souls, including the late film director David Lynch, who described the city as having 'beautiful winter light'. Once a textile manufacturing hub, the now-burgeoning city has a seriously special air and a handful of top-notch modern art galleries, including my favourite, MS2, which houses works by Natalia LL, a controversial Polish artist who was way before her time with her work that comments on feminism and misogyny. Spanning out from the city's main street, sit reclaimed factory buildings, outdoor markets, fun cafes, and mirrored passageways. Łódź is also home to some of the most delicious and affordable cuisine in Europe, making it ideal for solo travellers. Head to Len i Bawełna and Anatewka to sample some of the best, and don't miss a homemade doughnut from Gorąca Paczkarnia F-Wiatrak. Tbilisi, Georgia It's debated whether the transcontinental country of Georgia sits in Europe or Asia, but, since many Georgians consider themselves European, I've included wonderful Tbilisi on my list. Ideal for solo travellers due to the large range of well-priced and well-designed apartments for rent, and an array of stunning restaurants, I could spend month after month in Georgia's capital. While it was once slightly more under the radar, thanks to a lack of direct flights from the UK, easyJet and British Airways are now making the journey from London airports. Ideal for both countryside and city lovers, the area surrounding the city centre boasts swimmable lakes, dramatic hikes, and quirky cable car rides - and the food is sublime too. Visit Klike's Khinkali for the best khinkali (Georgian dumplings) in town. Pamplona, Spain Fans of Ernest Hemingway will love Pamplona, since it's where the writer spent time during his 20s. Statues, busts and street art creations of the man himself dot the streets, where compared to Madrid and Barcelona, tourists are few and far between. I loved strolling through old town Pamplona's pastel-coloured townhouses, and admiring the Church of San Saturnino, both of which ensure superlative backdrops as the sun sets. Painted in mustard yellow, and decked out with ornate columns and bold chandeliers, Cafe Iruna was the spot I liked to laze in during the afternoon. One of Hem's fave watering holes, it still serves decent drinks and affordable tapas, plus there's a life-sized statue of Hemingway propping up the bar at the back. Timișoara, Romania The third-largest city in Romania may not be an obvious solo destination, but its under-the-radar status means it's authentic and not touristy at all, making it a true hidden gem. When I visited, during one cold January, I practically had the city to myself, and was met with grandiose buildings and cobblestone plazas that reminded me of my travels through South America. What's more, my return flight cost just £19. I mostly strolled during the day and dined on hearty Romanian food each evening, with Casa Bunicii's pork knuckle with rosemary potatoes, and homemade lemonade being a sure-fire favourite. Frankfurt am Main, Germany Lydia says: 'Less crowded than hip Berlin, prettier than Hamburg, and closer to the UK than Munich, Frankfurt is just the ticket if you're looking for an alternative weekend away' Less crowded than hip Berlin, prettier than Hamburg, and closer to the UK than Munich, Frankfurt is just the ticket if you're looking for an alternative weekend away. For solo travellers, this walkable, photogenic metropolis, and its riverside location, is ideal. It's brimming with plenty of things to see and do, including Goethe House - the birthplace, and now museum, of German poet Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. The only area solo travellers should be weary of is around the main train station as it can get a bit rowdy come nightfall. Art lovers will be particularly impressed by the many large-scale murals around town, with a handful by acclaimed artists, such as Case Maclaim, Thomas Stolz, and Artmos4. Naples, Italy Home to a Banksy, a fun Diego Maradona shrine and the awe-inspiring Museo Cappella Sansevero, Naples delights on each and every corner. And, unlike the shiny, polished streets of Milan and Florence, which overflow with steady streams of tourists all year round, it's possible to witness Naples without the crowds should you time your trip well. I visited in the middle of August when the oppressive Italian heat kept most other tourists at bay and fell in love with the characterful place immediately. Without a doubt, my favourite place is the astounding Museo Cappella Sansevero. Here, a handful of Europe's (if not, the world's) most beautiful sculptures can be found - all of which feature incredible artistic skill with translucent veils and fishing nets crafted from marble. And, for anyone not comfortable dining alone, Naples' large range of pizzerias all offer take-out options. Famed for its inclusion in Elizabeth Gilbert's solo bible, Eat, Pray, Love, the pizza at L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele really is some of the best in the city, regardless of the cliche. But, be prepared to queue - this is a spot loved by locals and tourists alike. Vilnius, Lithuania While tourists are getting wise about the charms of Vilnius, it's still fairly under the radar, with around 120,000 visitors per month, compared to Paris' four million. Known for its medieval old town that features cobblestone streets and Gothic architecture, it also feels safe for solo females and is pretty affordable. Return flights can be snagged for as little as £34 if you're lucky. My favourite part of the city is the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Užupis, a tiny commune that's a haven for artists and art lovers, but there's also riverside walks, plenty of impressive churches to admire, and a range of cosy bars and restaurants to relax in. Istanbul, Turkey After spending two weeks in the vibrant Turkish hotspot that straddles Europe and Asia, the pretty areas of Cukurcuma and Cihangir quickly became my favourites. Delighting travellers with antique stores, historic hammams and cat-filled cobblestones, I found these hip neighbourhoods brimming with warmth and hospitality, without the crowds. One of Istanbul's oldest hammams, Aga Hamami, is unmissable. Dating back to 1454, the building itself is as impressive as the treatments on offer, while the nearby Museum of Innocence is well worth a visit, too. The wide array of cafes, bars and restaurants all are well priced and welcome solo-ers. Tatbak, Geyik and Mellow quickly became my top spots for dining and drinking out alone. Sofia, Bulgaria With an abundance of street art, informative communist walking tours, affordable holiday rentals, and plenty of hearty cuisine, Sofia makes a sound escape for solo travellers. While it is indeed the capital of Bulgaria, Sofia doesn't get the crowds associated with other European capitals. This meant I didn't need to make restaurant reservations or plan too far ahead when I last visited. Even better? Airbnb has over 1,000 listings in the city, starting from just £35 a night for a one-bedroom central apartment.
