Just One Dish — Yannick Alléno

Times

a day ago

'I grew up in the kitchen,' says Yannick Alléno from his first UK restaurant, Pavyllon, at Four Seasons, Park Lane, in London. From a very young age, Alléno spent much of his childhood helping out at the various bistros his parents ran in the Parisian suburbs. By the time he reached the wise age of eight, he'd set his sights on running his own establishment. Good thing too, as he is now one of the most decorated chefs in the world — holding 17 Michelin stars across his 19 restaurants.
Born in Puteaux, on the border of Paris, the culinary champ's first lessons came from his grandmother, who would teach Alléno and his cousins the craft of cooking during their summer holidays at her countryside house. Official training started at age 15 when he enrolled in the catering and hospitality school — Lycée Santos-Dumont in Saint-Cloud. Various apprenticeships with top chefs followed. Even now, despite being at the height of his game, he is insistent that the learning never stops. 'We learn every day. That's the beauty of the job,' he says.
Alléno won his first Michelin star in 1999 for Scribe in Paris. The following stars came in quick succession. He now has something of an empire with his multitude of restaurants, a boutique chocolate shop in Paris as well as a food magazine called YAM — Yannick Alléno Magazine.
Despite all this grandeur, one of Alléno's favourite dishes is the humble eggs benedict. 'Breakfast is the most important meal of the day,' he insists. And it is all about the sauce. 'For me, 80 per cent of the success of the plate is the sauce.'
Watch the video to learn how to make Michelin-starred eggs benedict — from the king of sauces himself.
IngredientsFor the reduction
• 10g finely chopped shallot• 10g white wine vinegar• 10g water• 2g crushed white peppercorns
For the sabayon and finish
• 50g egg yolks• 10g finished vinegar reduction• 150g cold unsalted butter, diced• 10g fresh lemon juice• 2g fine salt• White pepper or espelette pepper
1. Make the reduction — combine the shallot, vinegar, water and crushed peppercorns in a small saucepan.2. Reduce slowly over low heat until nearly dry, leaving around 10g of concentrated liquid.3. Strain through a fine sieve and reserve the reduction.4. Prepare the sabayon — in a mixing bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and 10g of the reserved reduction.5. Place the bowl over a gentle bain-marie.6. Whisk continuously until the mixture thickens, becomes airy, and reaches a temperature of 60-65C.7. Incorporate the butter.8. Remove the bowl from the heat or reduce the heat under the bain-marie.9. Add the cold diced butter gradually, whisking constantly to create a smooth and glossy emulsion.10. Continue until all the butter is fully incorporated and the sauce has a light, creamy consistency.11. Finish and season.12. Add the lemon juice, salt, and a touch of white pepper or espelette pepper.13. Taste and adjust the seasoning.14. Hold warm at 45-55C until serving.
Direction: Mona TehraniDOP: Steve Turvey