Hum: Ek Bar trades tasting menus for dry ice, gold leaf and modern Indian dishes that wow
Larger servings of curries here were all worth ordering again, ranging from the relatively mild Keralan cod moilee ($39) to the zingier Goan shrimp curry ($35) to the chili-forward but complex Northern Indian nihari lamb shank ($35) to my favourite, the dark, earthy and peppery oxtail curry ($34).
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Can't go to an Indian restaurant without ordering butter chicken? Ek Bar's bells-and-whistles rendition ($29) might top your fave. Its white meat is atypically moist and definitely seasoned due to brining, while time in the tandoor adds a touch of smokiness to the chicken. The sauce is fresh, rich and full-on.
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Designated 'chef Sarath's Hyderabadi biryani' on the menu, chicken biryani ($32) at Ek Bar is a carryover from Mohan's previous Ottawa restaurants, Vivaan and NH 44. Fans of the 35-year-old self-taught chef will be glad, as will fans of fluffy, delicious rice and vibrantly spiced chicken.
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Two desserts (each $18) by young pastry chef Diksha Verma made for strong finishes to our meals. Shahi tukda was almost tiramisu-like, with a rose- and cardamom syrup-soaked caramelized saffron brioche, vanilla-condensed milk crème and a pistachio crumble among its attractions. Entirely different, novel and beguiling was a plate of rose ice cream, powdered fennel seed sponge cake, and chocolate mousse flavoured by perfume-y betel leaf, with cherries, syrup and a white chocolate crumble to add some unifying sweetness.
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Cocktails here, made by servers, were well-concocted, smooth and sophisticated. They, and beer, would be better picks than more perfunctory wine choices.
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Service was a little uneven. One server, while friendly and attentive, seemed a little undertrained, and our leftover biryani, which she'd packed, didn't make it back to us before we left. A different server did a better, more polished job.
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Ultimately, Ek Bar managed to erase my bias in favour of Kathā. I like them both a lot, but for their respective great dishes and aspirations.
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Comparison aside, Ek Bar makes some excellent, distinguished food out of the gate and it has tremendous potential to be better still. Together, Bhagwani and Mohan could reach the culinary highs and prominence that Mohan couldn't on his own, and restaurant-lovers in Ottawa and beyond should take note.
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