
The latest in fine dining: a range of bottled water on a special menu
With more than one in five people abstaining from alcohol, Joseph Rawlins, the co-owner and head chef of French fine-dining restaurant La Popote, near Congleton, Cheshire, said it was the right time to offer customers 'something a bit different'.
'We have noticed in the last 18 months that a lot of people don't drink as much and are looking for an alternative to alcohol,' he said. 'We thought there was space for it, so why not?'
Working with Doran Binder, a British water sommelier, the pair selected seven bottled waters from France, Spain, Portugal, Italy, Iceland and the UK.
Prices start at £5 for Binder's own Crag Spring Water all the way up to £19 for the Portuguese sparkling water, the Palace of Vidago. The water will be served in wine glasses.
The menu provides an alternative to the restaurant's wine selection which has bottles from £28 to £400.
Binder had been selling Crag Spring at the restaurant since Rawlins took it over with Gaëlle Radigon. his partner, in 2019.
'He pitched the idea to us and we had a laugh as we were unsure what he meant by it at first,' Rawlins said. 'He then invited us down for a water tasting and that's when we realised that water isn't just water. He explained he thinks there is an exciting new market.'
Rawlins gave Binder the green light in January. He has spent seven months finalising his H₂O selection, whittling down his list from hundreds of types of water.
Binder, who is one of only five British water sommeliers, said the taste of water was determined by the total dissolved solids, which include naturally absorbed minerals.
The solids are rated from super-low (0 to 50) to super-high (1200-plus). Binder, a non-drinker, reckons the perfect hydration level is between 100 and 200.
'I had been working on a water menu for the past three or four years trying to get a restaurant to pick it up but it has been really difficult,' he said. 'People thought it was a gimmick but it was exciting when La Popote took me on.
'I have put together a quality range of interesting water. It is a selection showing off the different [solids] water has to offer. They all have different tastes, mouth-feels and offer a different perspective on dining at a restaurant. It will elevate the dining experience for non-drinkers like myself and millions of others who aren't interested in a wine menu.'
If the water menu becomes too much for diners at La Popote — which received its Michelin listing in 2022 — there is the option of drinking tap water. And that is free.
La Popote's water menu will be launched on Friday.

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But Francesco Winston's wage, let alone Magdalena's, would be regarded as a pittance in Britain. So the most important reason why Italy's GDP per capita at PPP is higher than Britain's is because the cost of living in Italy is much lower. Things that matter, especially, are far cheaper. When I'm drinking, which I am not at the moment, I buy a superb local Sangiovese for €2.60 a litre dispensed into plastic mineral water bottles from a huge cask in a wine shop in Ravenna run by a man whose nickname is God. On a rare visit to London the other day, I went to El Vino's in Fleet Street for old time's sake where I used to be a familiar face in the 1980s and 1990s. I can't for the life of me remember what it cost in those days to get sloshed in EV1, as we used to call it, but nowadays a bottle of house red costs £28.95, a glass £7.80. I struck up a conversation with a striking blond-haired woman from New Zealand at the next table, a university lecturer specialising in the rights of rivers, as it happened, and her friend, a Maori tribal leader, who spent his time punching my arm and hugging me, as if he were itching to get me on the ground for a spot of wrestling. I used to smoke 60 a day – Camel Yellow soft pack – until they took me to death's door and I stopped in 2019. In Italy they still only cost €5.70 a pack, compared to £17.75 at Tesco's. In the bar we frequent in the village, where my youngest daughter Rita, 16, is working (she's paid €9 an hour in regola), an espresso brought by her to your table will cost you €1.20 and a cappuccino €1.50, compared to £1.95 and £4.40 at a Costa coffee shop in Britain. The most expensive fish dish on the menu at Francesco Winston's restaurant, a grigliata mista di pesce, costs €28, an entrecote steak €18, a plate of taglietelle al ragù €8 or spaghetti con vongole €13. 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But a pleasingly spacious restored one in the countryside in my neck of the woods will cost you just €350,000 (£300,000). In Ravenna itself, outside the old city, one bed flats can be rented for €500 a month. Italy's economy remains very sluggish – but so does most of Europe's. GDP grew in 2024 by only 0.7 per cent and this year is forecast by the OECD to grow by only 0.6 per cent (compared to 0.6 per cent in France, 0.4 per cent in Germany which last year was in recession, but 1.3 per cent in Britain). At 136 per cent, Italy's public debt as a proportion of GDP, remains astronomically high (second only to Greece in the EU and in the world's top ten) but remains relatively static while France (111 per cent) and Britain (97.6 per cent) steadily catch up. But since Giorgia Meloni's right-wing coalition came to power in October 2022, one million full time jobs have been created in Italy, by among other things cutting taxes and abolishing long-term unemployment benefit for all except those with non-working dependents. The all-important spread between the interest rates paid on Italian and German government ten-year bonds has plummeted from 236 when Meloni came to power to just 83. The lower the spread between the Italian and the German bonds the more confident the markets are in the stability of Italy's economy. Italy's first female Prime Minister already heads the fourth longest lasting of the country's 69 governments since the fall of fascism in 1945 – just over one a year. If she survives another year, as looks likely, her government will become the longest lasting of all. Significantly, her government has also slashed the budget deficit from 8.1 per cent when she came to power to 3.4 per cent in 2024. Italy's inflation rate at 1.7 per cent is much lower than Britain's which is 3.6 per cent and expected by the Bank of England to increase to 4 per cent in September. Unemployment among young Italians under the age of 24 is still very high at around 20 per cent nationwide and much higher in the deep south. But overall unemployment has decreased to a historic low of 5.9 per cent – 1.6 million people – compared to only 4.7 per cent in Britain – 1.7 million people. But that unemployment figure for Britain is deceptive because in total 6.4 million are on out-of-work benefits: and the unemployment figure only includes those looking for work. The other reason for Italy's higher standard of living is that while Britain's population has rocketed by ten million (17 per cent) since 2000 as a result of mass immigration, most of it perfectly legit, Italy's has declined by 1.5 million since 2014. Italy has far more migrants arriving by boat and pretending to be refugees than Britain but the number of legal immigrants it takes in is dwarfed by the millions who have arrived in Britain. Britain's fertility rate, like that in most European countries, is not much higher than Italy's but its population, thanks to immigration, is expected to grow to 78 million by 2050. If a country's GDP remains the same, and its population goes up, then its GDP per capita goes down, as it is measured by dividing GDP by population. But if its population goes down then its GDP per capita goes up. I'm not an economist, as is obvious, but this does seem to challenge the default view of the experts that without a growing population a country is doomed. Of one thing, I am sure. I would not come back to Britain – even if you paid me. I'll just have to make do with working for British and foreign newspapers and magazines from Dante's Beach.