Review: A master sensualist returns with an alluring star and not much else in ‘Parthenope'
The movie is built on the drifting life of a smart, stunningly beautiful and unfulfilled woman. But 'Parthenope' shouldn't have to strain as hard as it does — it plays like a fragrance ad. That qualifies as a disappointment for a filmmaker whose sensualist impulses are God-tier. Sometimes, his eccentric, loose storytelling style can dampen the impact of the rarefied emotions he's after. And with his overlong 'Parthenope,' the mild suppressing of most of his Fellini-esque impulses in favor of a sexy Michelangelo Antonioni aura yields only scattershot results.
Birthed in the sea of Naples, named for the mythic siren but first made real to us as an 18-year-old bikini goddess emerging from the shimmering water, Parthenope (Celeste Dalla Porta) is, despite her appearance, at odds with the power of her beauty. Carrying an air of winking disruption — the gardener gets a robe-dropping free show — and also a bemused circumspection, she swans around under the summer sun like a bright, shiny, cigarette-smoking seductress, causing rowing teams to stop and stare (so much less lethal than what real sirens did). She also enjoys a playfully flirtatious (and in one case, eye-opening) relationship with the attractive young men around her. And Naples offers plenty of those.
But Parthenope also knows how to gently, and with a teasing smile, push back at anyone's preconceived notions about who she is, and what she is or isn't thinking. A devoted reader and ambitious student, she revels in the depressive stories of John Cheever, who even makes a guest appearance as a tourist-ing acquaintance (played by Gary Oldman), giving gin-soaked pontifications on youth's transience. At her university, meanwhile, Parthenope impresses her jaded anthropology professor (Silvio Orlando) with the openness of her curiosity.
The academic career she craves, however, doesn't stop her from exploring what's out there, and Sorrentino's menu of experiences for her covers a lot of thematic ground: a mysterious encounter with a disfigured acting guru, a night picnic with a wealthy admirer who hovers in a helicopter, an affair with a folk hero who connects her to the city's poor masses, a personal tragedy that reminds her of life's fragility. In perhaps the most outrageous detour, she visits a carnally philosophical bishop (Peppe Lanzetta). Even the preserved blood of Naples' patron saint San Gennaro is susceptible to her charms. Her transfixing allure seems to draw every oddity and incident, but as the years pass, there's also a fixity to her resolve.
That's also the problem with Sorrentino's approach. Is he truly interested in the depths of his creation, or just the surface pleasures of a scenario that makes a few points here and there about beauty's eternal appeal? All while his admittedly gorgeous leading lady plays a cryptic symbol?
One admirable reality to this unfortunately superficial adventure is how steady Dalla Porta is. She meets Sorrentino's demanding direction with a game nonchalance — so much staring at the lens! It's no mere cover-model performance inside the high gloss of Daria d'Antonia's cinematography. And she's asking the questions the movie wants asked. But without a character that we feel connected to, even Parthenope's great beauty, meant to suggest Naples itself, qualifies as an overburdened resource.
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Boston Globe
3 hours ago
- Boston Globe
Where to eat in Rome and Sicily
ROME Get Starting Point A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday through Friday. Enter Email Sign Up Ditirambo Recommended by a foodie family member (who might be annoyed I'm sharing her favorite special spot), Ditirambo is a classic Roman trattoria. Tucked in a warren of streets near the Campo de'Fiori, the intimate space is the opposite of swanky, with a dark beamed ceiling, pale yellow walls, art by local artists, simple cloths on wood tables, and super-friendly staff. When the one table of loud Americans left, we were the only ones not speaking Italian, creating an atmosphere of hanging out with the locals. But don't let the simplicity of the place fool you. The food is the star here, with fresh seasonal ingredients driving the menu's weekly specials and fixed choices. 'I piatti di mezzo' (middle dishes), a cross between an appetizer and a first course, include vegetarian choices such as eggplant meatballs, and zucchini millefeuille with smoked buffalo mozzarella. All breads and pastas are homemade, including filled pastas — ravioli, tortelloni, and such — and the Roman classic cacio e pepe, basically Pecorino Romano cheese and black pepper that is made slightly differently by every chef in town. Other seasonal specialties include rigatoni alla carbonara made with pork cheeks, farro pappardelle with rabbit ragù, sea bream with capers, tomatoes, and olives, and suckling roasted pig. Our choice, fettuccini with fresh and fried artichokes and bacon, was sublime. We paired it with a local white Lazio wine, chosen from an extensive list. Open for lunch and dinner. Advertisement della Cancelleria, 74, 00186 Roma +39-06-687-1626, At Sora Margherita in Rome's Jewish Quarter, the walls are covered with handwritten thank-you notes from happy patrons. Necee Regis Sora Margherita We had hoped to try a certain restaurant in the Jewish Quarter, but alas, it was closed for lunch that day. While wandering the neighborhood, an unexpected downpour led us running to the door of Sora Margherita, a tiny restaurant where we had one of the best meals of our trip. The place was packed with diners, but the friendly hostess managed to squeeze two soggy patrons into the one-room space and produced a handwritten menu of pastas, salads, and traditional Roman dishes: grilled marinated lamb, rustic chicken stew, steak with grilled vegetables, and fried salt cod. We ordered carciofi alla giudia, a deep-fried artichoke dish originating in Rome's Jewish community; polpete al sugo, three massive meatballs in a rich red sauce; and fettuccine cacio e pepe. When the Italian diners at our elbows were served what we had just ordered, we knew we had selected wisely. The smashed artichoke was like a golden sunflower, with leaves as crispy as potato chips that then melted in the mouth. Astonishing. The pasta was just peppery and cheesy enough, though our new friends suggested that next time we try it with added ricotta. The meatballs, flavorful and filling, were the perfect accompaniment to a glass of wine. As the lunch crowd departed, we could view the walls covered with handwritten thank-you notes from happy patrons. We were too full to order dessert, but our neighbors insisted we try a bite of their ricotta and sour cherry tart, a classic Jewish Quarter sweet. Open for lunch and dinner, with outside dining when weather permits. Advertisement Piazza delle Cinque Scole, 30, 00186, Roma +39-06-687-4216, The cool interior of Glass, a restaurant serving typical Sicilian dishes and pizza in the hilltop town of Piazza Armerina. Necee Regis SICILY Glass Clinging to a hilltop in central Sicily, the small town of Piazza Armerina is a terrific place for lunch when visiting the nearby Villa Romana del Casale, a not-to-be-missed fourth-century UNESCO World Heritage site known for its more than 37,000 square feet of well-preserved Roman mosaics. Before visiting the villa, we were hiking the maze of Piazza Armerina's medieval streets on an unsuccessful hunt for pizza when someone directed us to Glass. Stepping from the bright, hot sunshine into the cool stone building, we sat beneath the arched ceiling — hungry, tired — and learned that pizza is only served at dinner. When traveling, it's easier to pivot than to force a plan that isn't working. So, we stayed, and were thrilled that we did. It was tough to choose among the many offerings of typical Sicilian foods: Antipasti with Mortadella, speck, caponata, fresh ricotta, eggplant rolls and more; beef tartar with red wine reduction; fusilli with eggplant and almonds; hand-rolled pasta twists with cream of pistachios from Bronte (a town near Mount Etna famous for its small sweet pistachios only harvested every two years); fusilli with asparagus and speck; grilled Angus beef with arugula and parmesan; rolled veal stuffed with ham and pistachios; and hand-rolled macaroni with sausage and fennel. We chose the latter two dishes, and left sated and satisfied. Maybe someday we'll return for pizza. Open for lunch and dinner. Advertisement Largo Capodarso, 5, 94015 Piazza Armerina +39-093-557-7680 Red shrimp crudo with Sicilian avocado on sauteed spinach with a grapefruit reduction, served at Portocostanza, a stylish restaurant overlooking the port in Palermo. Necee Regis Portocostanza I'd be lax if I didn't mention the prevalence of locally-caught seafood in Sicily. Sardines, anchovies, shrimp, squid, shellfish, and finfish, including swordfish, are served in pasta, grilled, fried, and raw. For a special celebratory meal, a friend in Palermo directed us to Portocostanza, a stylish restaurant overlooking the port. The creative menu focuses on Sicilian flavors, with a farm-to-table approach that includes organic vegetables and herbs acquired from local farmers and its own 5-acre garden. Watching boats lazily glide past our tableside floor-to-ceiling glass windows, we bypassed the tasting menu and shared several dishes for our lunchtime meal: red shrimp crudo with Sicilian avocado on sauteed spinach with a grapefruit reduction; spaghetti with mixed seafood in light tomato cream with capers and mint-flavored breadcrumbs; and snapper fillet with confit cherry tomato cream and Salina caper powder. All were terrific, along with house-made breads, and we'd happily return to taste the many other tempting options, such as risotto with fish broth and shrimp; crispy octopus on smoked eggplant; and mixed salad with tuna tartar, mango cream, and almond flakes. They also have a pizza menu and serve happy hour snacks on an outside upper deck. Reservations are strongly suggested for both lunch and dinner. Advertisement Marina Yachting, Via Filippo Patti, 30, 90133 Palermo +39-091-619-9199, At Bollicine in Palermo. a fire-singed, pillowy crust pizza is topped with salty prosciutto, sweet yellow cherry tomatoes, creamy Buffalo mozzarella, and earthy, nutty artichokes. Necee Regis Bollicine Palermo is known for its street food, especially arancina, cheese or meat-filled deep-fried rice balls, and for its gelaterias serving a wide selection of fruity, nutty and chocolate/coffee flavors. We sampled many of these wondrous things, but nothing — really nothing — could outshine the pizza at Bollicine. Located around the corner from the historic Teatro Santa Cecilia, where we attended a top-notch jazz performance, the restaurant's outdoor seating was packed and festive on a Saturday night, with service friendly and quick. The menu offered a variety of antipasti, pastas, burgers, and salads, but the draw for us was the 20-plus pizzas. It was difficult to choose among offerings that included sausage, champignon mushrooms, anchovies, Mortadella, smoked scamorza, Gorgonzola, speck, red pumpkin cream, spicy salami, pistachio pesto, ricotta, sundried tomatoes, eggplant, rapini, and more. Our friends are tired of hearing us swoon over our choice — the Salento — with its fire-singed, pillowy crust topped with salty prosciutto, sweet yellow cherry tomatoes, creamy Buffalo mozzarella, and earthy, nutty artichokes. When I return to Palermo, this will be my first meal. Piazza Rivoluzione, 13, 90133 Palermo +39-327-002-6314, Necee Regis can be reached at . Necee Regis can be reached at
CNN
4 hours ago
- CNN
12 of America's most iconic sandwiches and where to eat them
Is there any food more intrinsic to America's on-the-move lifestyle than the grab-and-go sandwich? The deep, diverse array of US sandwich options owes much of its greatness to the creativity and resourcefulness of immigrant communities. Cities and states from coast to coast claim their classics. New Orleans' olive salad-studded muffaletta was invented by Italian immigrants who settled in the city's Lower French Quarter. The Cuban sandwich as we know it today evolved in Florida and was shaped by immigrant communities from Cuba, Spain, Italy and Germany. And both Miami and Tampa take credit for it. Feeling hungry already? We've rounded up 12 more of the greatest American sandwiches worth traveling for — or, if you're lucky, seeking out in your own backyard. What are your picks? Please share them in the comments below. Made famous well beyond Chicago thanks to 'The Bear,' this spiced roast beef sandwich traces its origins to the early 1900s and the city's Italian immigrants. It's essentially a hero roll filled with thinly sliced beef and topped with the pickled Italian relish mix called giardiniera. Sweet peppers and melted cheese can be piled on, too. Ciccio at Navy Pier is a popular spot for digging in. The version featured on the FX/Hulu series 'The Bear' was created by the show's culinary producer, chef Courtney Storer, who was raised in Chicago alongside her brother and series creator Chris Storer. A humble Southern staple, pimento cheese is sometimes referred to as the pâté of the South, although there's evidence of early roots in New York City. But the Southern version that made it famous is a particular favorite in states like North Carolina and Georgia. It's a regular offering on the concessions menu at the men's professional golf classic, the Masters Tournament, in Augusta, Georgia (where the sandwich still sells for $1.50). The traditional recipe is always served on white bread. Inside, a mash-up of ingredients turned into a thick spread include the classic artery-clogging mix of sharp cheddar, mayonnaise and diced pimento peppers (a derivative of Spanish pimientos). Cream cheese, grated onion and cayenne or hot sauce may also feature in some recipes. Beef on weck is a local legend in Western New York (primarily the Buffalo area) that's served on a kummelweck roll. Never heard of it? Weck refers to the salt-crusted kaiser roll topped with caraway seeds. The top bun gets dipped au jus before capping a pile of thinly sliced roast beef (usually served rare) livened up with a slathering of horseradish. Buffalonians are highly opinionated when it comes to whose beef on weck is best, but Anthony Bourdain tried the sandwich at Schwabl's, which has been around since 1837, and called it a 'tasty little masterpiece.' Florida might be better known for the Cuban sandwich that both Miami and Tampa claim as their own. But go anywhere along the Sunshine State's Gulf coast, and in the Florida Keys in particular, and you'll see grouper sandwiches on the menu at seafood shacks and upscale waterfront restaurants alike. The white, flaky fish is a sought-after catch in both the Atlantic and the Gulf that can be served grilled, fried or blackened. According to a Tampa Magazine article, the first restaurant ad for a grouper sandwich was in Panama City in 1974. For a classic version of the grouper sandwich served with tartar sauce and a pickle, Frenchy's Original Cafe in Clearwater Beach does an original beer batter-fried version as well as one that's a tasty Reuben twist. The oldest deli in New York City, Katz's Delicatessen on the Lower East Side, debuted in 1888 as the small kosher Iceland Brothers deli before the Katz family got involved in 1903. Known for excellent American Jewish deli foods like corned beef, Katz's has become a pilgrimage site for trying one of the city's most iconic sandwiches, pastrami on rye. The sandwich is thought to have first been popularized in New York by a Lithuanian immigrant who sold it from a Delancey Street deli. Pastrami traces its roots to the Ottoman Turks and then into Romania, where jerky-like beef, goat or mutton gave way to pastirma made, perhaps surprisingly, from goose. Immigrants in New York adapted again to take advantage of cheap and plentiful beef brisket. The American version uses smoked brisket, brined in pickling spices and piled high between two slices of rye bread, with a slathering of spicy brown mustard. Known for more than country music and bachelorette party mayhem, Nashville is the source of a homegrown hot chicken sandwich that has become legendary as the city's de facto fuel for fun. The spicy chicken specialty is said to have been invented more than a century ago when a scorned lover created a spicy food trap in the form of overpoweringly pepper-hot fried chicken that her man unfortunately loved instead of loathed. That man was Thornton Prince, and today his great niece still cooks up the quintessential dish that draws the crowds to Prince's Hot Chicken to dig in. The debate over which Los Angeles restaurant — Philippe's or Cole's —invented the French dip sandwich in the early 20th century may never be resolved. But there's no denying what sets this entry in the thinly-sliced roast beef sandwich category apart — the fact that its French roll gets dunked into pan juices or broth before eating. The effect is deliciously drippy, whether the sandwich is served already 'wet,' as is the case at Phillipe's, or au jus for the eater to dip to their liking, according to Cole's customs. Purists prefer to order the sandwich sans cheese, with spicy mustard as the condiment. New England's quintessential summer sandwich has gained fame across the country and around the globe. Chunky lobster meat fresh from its shell — chilled and mixed with ingredients like lemon juice, mayonnaise and herbs — gets stuffed into a bun split across its top rather than down the side. In Maine, lobster rolls are typically served cold and with mayo while Connecticut's classic version is warm and buttered. There's no better place to sink your teeth into this crustacean sensation than somewhere along the stretch of coastline between Maine and Connecticut — preferably seated at a picnic table with an ocean view at a low-key seafood shack like the seasonal eatery The Lobster Shack at Two Lights in Cape Elizabeth, Maine. A hot mess in sandwich form, nothing goes down quite like the City of Brotherly Love's favorite sandwich. For the quintessential Philly version, a hoagie roll – crusty on the outside and soft and chewy within – is the essential bread vessel. Inside, ribeye steak mingles with melted cheese, which might be provolone or, as some purists argue, Cooper Sharp cheese. Other Philly cheesesteak fans insist that American cheese or Cheez Whiz is the way to go. Peppers and onions can be added according to taste. The sandwich was invented in the 1930s by hot dog vendor Pat Olivieri, whose family still owns Pat's King of Steaks, open 24/7 in South Philadelphia. Built to harness seasonal bounty, this California favorite, sometimes called a 'hippie sandwich,' often puts sprouts, avocado and copious crunchy veggies on multigrain bread. The California veggie sandwich doesn't have a clear origin story but may have started to reach beyond the Golden State during the health food boom of the '70s and '80s. Today, All Time in Los Angeles serves up a tasty version — a white cheddar veggie sandwich with Japanese mayo on house sourdough. Think of this sandwich, which is easy to customize at home, as a salad between two slices of bread. And feel free to create your own take, adding a layer of cheese or hummus. You'll never go wrong with avocado and sliced cucumbers tucked inside, but the key is to focus on the freshest and most seasonal ingredients. Said to have been invented to feed drivers during a streetcar strike in New Orleans in 1929, many go-to po' boys put the spotlight on fried seafood from Louisiana's waters — with shrimp, oysters, crawfish and catfish among the common fillers. A staple in New Orleans' pantheon of incredible eats and far from a light meal, the sandwich is served on French bread with shredded lettuce and copious lashings of creamy remoulade sauce. Look for the handpainted sign at Domilise's in a quiet uptown neighborhood to try a beloved version at one of the city's po' boy institutions Louisville's most legendary dish can be traced to the 1920s and The Brown Hotel, where the broiled and open-faced turkey sandwich with bacon and Mornay sauce was dreamed up as a late-night snack for revelers at the hotel's popular dinner dance. Guests can still dig into it at the hotel's restaurants and bar, where it's served on Texas toast with trimmed crusts. You'll find the sandwich on menus at restaurants throughout Louisville and Kentucky, including at the Kentucky Derby. Terry Ward is a Florida-based travel writer and freelance journalist in Tampa who loves the Cuban sandwiches at La Segunda in Tampa and Sanguich in Miami.
Miami Herald
8 hours ago
- Miami Herald
This year has been tough on Miami restaurants. Here's what closed in 2025 so far
The year 2025 has been a rough year — particularly in the late spring and early summer — for Miami-area restaurants. With so many new restaurants opening in the past several years, a large number closings are almost certainly an inevitability. Many restauranteurs and chefs admit they're hurting. The high prices of food, rent and insurance weigh heavy on them and their customers — especially the locals who can't flee for cooler climates for the entire slow season. Here are some of the notable closings around Miami this year. Some say they'll return, while others vanished quietly. Long-time spots thanked their customers and strode into the sunset with more than a little pride, knowing that 10 years or more is an eternity in restaurant terms. Especially in Miami. EntreNos: This Michelin-starred gem, which focused on Florida ingredients from its fish to its pork to its produce, shared space with Tinta y Cafe in Miami Shores. After two years, when the lease was up, chefs Evan Burgess and Osmel Gonzalez moved on. Should we mention they claim they are reopening at some point? Erba: Nobody involved seems to want to talk about the closing of this fine Italian restaurant in Coral Gables, owned by Nolan Reynolds International and showcasing the culinary talents of Chef Niven Patel (who also is the creative force behind Paya in Miami Beach; Ghee Indian Kitchen in Kendall and Wynwood; and NiMo in Tequesta). All we know is you can't make a reservation any more. Maty's: James Beard Award-winning Chef Val Chang's love letter to her Peruvian grandmother closed in Midtown Miami. The shutdown was a double whammy: It also signaled the impending closure of her brother Nando's exquisite omakase space Itamae Ao, as the restaurants shared a space. Byblos: This Mediterranean gem is closed while its home at the Royal Palm South Beach Miami hotel is undergoing a $100 million renovation project. Gordon Ramsay's Lucky Cat: The Asian-inspired restaurant located in the South of Fifth neighborhood of Miami Beach says it plans to only close for the season. There's no reopening date. Itamae Ao: If we hadn't heard that Chef Nando Chang was seeking a home for his amazing Michelin-starred omakase counter, we'd have filed this under 'huge losses.' But Chang has said he is searching for a new spot. Fingers crossed. Kush Wynwood and Stephen's by Kush: These local favorites from Matt Kuscher's hospitality group are expected to reopen. La Mar by Gastón Acurio: The Peruvian-style restaurant on the water lost its home when it was decided the Mandarin Oriental would be demolished, but there are plans to reopen in Brickell. Piegari: This Italian restaurant, one of many in Wynwood, closed after only a year but reports that it plans to reopen with 'necessary changes and improvements.' Will it? Stay tuned. Torno Subito: The Italian restaurant atop Julia & Henry's food hall insists it will reopen in the fall, despite the fact that development in that part of downtown Miami hasn't quite caught up to it yet. Belmont Spanish Restaurant: Twelve years of Spanish cuisine and culture ended in January when Belmont left Miracle Mile. Le Zoo: Stephen Starr's French brasserie closed after 10 years at the luxurious Bal Harbour Shops. Ms Cheezious: The food truck still exists, but the brick-and-mortar spot in MiMo, conceived in 2010, is no longer in business Red South Beach: When its owners were unable to reach an agreement with the landlord, the luxury steakhouse closed after 17 years. Sugarcane: The influential OG of Midtown Miami announced early in 2025 that it was ending its run after 15 years. Villa Azur: The Mediterranean restaurant and party spot closed after 13 years in Miami Beach. Caffe Vialetto: This beloved Italian spot for celebrating milestones in Coral Gables shut down after 26 years. Osteria del Teatro: This Italian spot on 79th Street Causeway almost made it to 40 years in business. Instead, it closed after 37. Sardinia: After just shy of 20 years, this Italian restaurant in the Sunset Harbour neighborhood of Miami Beach known for its wood-burning oven and robust wine list, said goodbye. Ensenada: The coastal Mexican spot from Brooklyn left its Vagabond Hotel space in the MiMo neighborhood after only six months. RedFarm: The Chinese dim sum giant from New York shut down operations in Coconut Grove a year after its opening. Sereia: This elegant Portuguese restaurant from Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa shut down after a year. Velvet Taco: The brand from Dallas still operates a location in Fort Lauderdale, but its time in Wynwood ended after less than a year. Fiola: The glamorous Italian restaurant in Coral Gables closed but only to make way for Gioia Hospitality's new venture, the upscale Daniel's Steakhouse, which has been a big hit in Fort Lauderdale. Ostrow Brasserie: Chef Olivia Ostrow's kosher French restaurant shut down in the Buena Vista neighborhood, with Ostrow moving on with Maison Ostrow in a bigger space (the former Osteria del Teatro) in North Bay Village. Wabi Sabi: The MiMo location is gone, but in its place is Midorie, one of the other Japanese concepts from restaurateur Alvaro Perez-Miranda (also the force behind the Michelin-starred Ogawa in Little River). Aba: This Mediterranean spot from Chicago moved on from its space in Bal Harbour Shops after two and a half years. Chica: The Latin restaurant from Venezuelan-born celebrity chef Lorena Garcia, located in the old Soyka space in Miami, announced its closing on OpenTable. Harry's Pizzeria: The South Beach and the Coconut Grove locations of the pizza spot from Chef Michael Schwartz quietly shut down. Like Mike: The Italian restaurant in Coconut is now the home of its Italian neighbor restaurant, Sapore di Mare. Planta Queen: The Coconut Grove and Fort Lauderdale locations of this vegan spot are both closed. Tablé by Bachour: You might never have known this French spot from Antonio Bachour had closed if you didn't drive past it in the Design District and notice the windows papered over.
