
No menu, no worries: this Melbourne eatery transports you around the world
In Victoria's capital, where iconic restaurants pepper each main street and back alley, it can be tricky to know where to start. But there's one new restaurant making the paralysis of choice just a little easier to handle.
At Freyja, diners are simply asked if there's anything they don't eat, won't eat or shouldn't eat before the dishes start rolling to the table. The secretive menu gives guests a chance to release control of the dining experience and let one of the city's most talented chefs bring plate after plate of seasonal, boundary-pushing food.
As a young chef, Jae Bang travelled from Seoul to sleep outside Ferran Adria's modernist El Bulli restaurant on Spain's Costa Brava until he was given a chance to cook. He worked his way through some of the most respected kitchens in the US, Europe and Asia before moving to Melbourne in 2022 and opening Freyja.
The restaurant, in one of the CBD's beautiful Gothic and Romanesque buildings, is a reflection of Chef Bang's career. He isn't constrained by cuisine, blending earthy Middle Eastern spices such as ras el hanout with Asian flavours like tangy makrut lime.
The meal starts with an oyster from Boomer Bay and a silky paté dotted with blackberries. Crusty sourdough mops up mussels in a delicate, buttery sauce before beef tartare with nasturtium hits the table. Chef Bang keeps the palate dancing when he serves melt-in-the-mouth pork ribs, roast cauliflower and a beet salad.
Inside the arched cathedral windows of Freyja is a classic Melbourne dining experience that tells the story of the city and its bakers, farmers, butchers and winemakers. freyjarestaurant.com
With all the must-see restaurants, bakeries and sandwich shops serving irresistible morsels, "I've been eating all day, I can't fit in another bite," goes the Melbourne visitor's frequent refrain.
In Victoria's capital, where iconic restaurants pepper each main street and back alley, it can be tricky to know where to start. But there's one new restaurant making the paralysis of choice just a little easier to handle.
At Freyja, diners are simply asked if there's anything they don't eat, won't eat or shouldn't eat before the dishes start rolling to the table. The secretive menu gives guests a chance to release control of the dining experience and let one of the city's most talented chefs bring plate after plate of seasonal, boundary-pushing food.
As a young chef, Jae Bang travelled from Seoul to sleep outside Ferran Adria's modernist El Bulli restaurant on Spain's Costa Brava until he was given a chance to cook. He worked his way through some of the most respected kitchens in the US, Europe and Asia before moving to Melbourne in 2022 and opening Freyja.
The restaurant, in one of the CBD's beautiful Gothic and Romanesque buildings, is a reflection of Chef Bang's career. He isn't constrained by cuisine, blending earthy Middle Eastern spices such as ras el hanout with Asian flavours like tangy makrut lime.
The meal starts with an oyster from Boomer Bay and a silky paté dotted with blackberries. Crusty sourdough mops up mussels in a delicate, buttery sauce before beef tartare with nasturtium hits the table. Chef Bang keeps the palate dancing when he serves melt-in-the-mouth pork ribs, roast cauliflower and a beet salad.
Inside the arched cathedral windows of Freyja is a classic Melbourne dining experience that tells the story of the city and its bakers, farmers, butchers and winemakers. freyjarestaurant.com
With all the must-see restaurants, bakeries and sandwich shops serving irresistible morsels, "I've been eating all day, I can't fit in another bite," goes the Melbourne visitor's frequent refrain.
In Victoria's capital, where iconic restaurants pepper each main street and back alley, it can be tricky to know where to start. But there's one new restaurant making the paralysis of choice just a little easier to handle.
At Freyja, diners are simply asked if there's anything they don't eat, won't eat or shouldn't eat before the dishes start rolling to the table. The secretive menu gives guests a chance to release control of the dining experience and let one of the city's most talented chefs bring plate after plate of seasonal, boundary-pushing food.
As a young chef, Jae Bang travelled from Seoul to sleep outside Ferran Adria's modernist El Bulli restaurant on Spain's Costa Brava until he was given a chance to cook. He worked his way through some of the most respected kitchens in the US, Europe and Asia before moving to Melbourne in 2022 and opening Freyja.
The restaurant, in one of the CBD's beautiful Gothic and Romanesque buildings, is a reflection of Chef Bang's career. He isn't constrained by cuisine, blending earthy Middle Eastern spices such as ras el hanout with Asian flavours like tangy makrut lime.
The meal starts with an oyster from Boomer Bay and a silky paté dotted with blackberries. Crusty sourdough mops up mussels in a delicate, buttery sauce before beef tartare with nasturtium hits the table. Chef Bang keeps the palate dancing when he serves melt-in-the-mouth pork ribs, roast cauliflower and a beet salad.
Inside the arched cathedral windows of Freyja is a classic Melbourne dining experience that tells the story of the city and its bakers, farmers, butchers and winemakers. freyjarestaurant.com
With all the must-see restaurants, bakeries and sandwich shops serving irresistible morsels, "I've been eating all day, I can't fit in another bite," goes the Melbourne visitor's frequent refrain.
In Victoria's capital, where iconic restaurants pepper each main street and back alley, it can be tricky to know where to start. But there's one new restaurant making the paralysis of choice just a little easier to handle.
At Freyja, diners are simply asked if there's anything they don't eat, won't eat or shouldn't eat before the dishes start rolling to the table. The secretive menu gives guests a chance to release control of the dining experience and let one of the city's most talented chefs bring plate after plate of seasonal, boundary-pushing food.
As a young chef, Jae Bang travelled from Seoul to sleep outside Ferran Adria's modernist El Bulli restaurant on Spain's Costa Brava until he was given a chance to cook. He worked his way through some of the most respected kitchens in the US, Europe and Asia before moving to Melbourne in 2022 and opening Freyja.
The restaurant, in one of the CBD's beautiful Gothic and Romanesque buildings, is a reflection of Chef Bang's career. He isn't constrained by cuisine, blending earthy Middle Eastern spices such as ras el hanout with Asian flavours like tangy makrut lime.
The meal starts with an oyster from Boomer Bay and a silky paté dotted with blackberries. Crusty sourdough mops up mussels in a delicate, buttery sauce before beef tartare with nasturtium hits the table. Chef Bang keeps the palate dancing when he serves melt-in-the-mouth pork ribs, roast cauliflower and a beet salad.
Inside the arched cathedral windows of Freyja is a classic Melbourne dining experience that tells the story of the city and its bakers, farmers, butchers and winemakers. freyjarestaurant.com
Hashtags

Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles

Courier-Mail
10 hours ago
- Courier-Mail
Paris's Notre-Dame Cathedral wasn't just restored after the fire, it was reborn
Don't miss out on the headlines from Lifestyle. Followed categories will be added to My News. Sitting at the rooftop bar of the Hôtel Dame des Arts above the beating heart of Paris's Latin Quarter, I admire the unobstructed 360-degree views of the city. The Eiffel Tower, Les Invalides' gilded golden dome, too many rooftops and tucked-away balconies to count, and nearby the soaring medieval beauty of the city's Gothic wonder, Notre-Dame Cathedral. This repository of French culture dating back to the 12th century has seen everything from the coronation of Napoleon to the funerals of presidents. On one night in 2019, however, the view would have been vastly different. It would have been horrific. On April 15, around 6.30pm, a fire started in Notre-Dame's roof, destroying much of its 13th-century oak ceiling, its upper walls, and its symbolic crown, a glorious lead-lined 19th-century timber spire. Flames, fed by the forest of timbers in its ceilings, spread toxic lead and dust across a city stunned into shock and disbelief. The process to restore it, at a cost of €700 million ($1.25bn), befits its monumental status. Over 1000 oak trees from almost 200 public and private forests went through 35 sawmills on their way to the French capital. More than 2000 artisans, including carpenters and stonemasons, glassmakers and scaffolders, painters and sculptors and iron forgers joined to help it rise from the ashes, and Notre-Dame reopened to the public on December 7, 2024. I last visited Notre-Dame in 2010. Back then its interior seemed to me a shadowy realm, a bleak-looking sanctuary, weathered by centuries of neglect. Bacteria and an accumulation of grime and pollution had infiltrated its porous, Lutetian limestone. The passing of time had turned it black. The interior isn't just renewed, it shines. After joining a short but growing queue at 7.45am opening time, what I see when I enter this time, armed only with that memory of a somewhat faded masterpiece, stops me in my tracks. The interior isn't just renewed, it shines. Everything – pillars and pointed arches, its ribbed vaulted ceilings and its statuary and every carving both great and small – seems alive. Though some of its stained glasses have been replaced, most survived the fire and have been cleaned and are alive with colour. Lasers were used to vaporise eight centuries of grime from carvings and hard-to-get-at niches. Calcium carbonate-based abrasives were applied under low pressure to its broader surfaces such as pillars and walls, and its stonework is now without blemish. You can take a guided tour of the renewed cathedral, but I prefer instead to wander on my own and contemplate this enduring testament to the ingenuity of an army of dedicated artisans, and of a people of indomitable faith. Entry to Notre-Dame is always free. How much does admission cost at Notre-Dame Cathedral, Paris Entry to Notre-Dame is always free. It's open from 7.45am-7pm Monday to Friday, and 8.15am-7.30pm on weekends. A range of paid guided tours is also available. Best place to stay in Paris Hôtel Dame des Arts is close to the cathedral. The author was a guest of the Hôtel Dame des Arts. Originally published as Notre-Dame Cathedral wasn't just restored after the fire, it was reborn

Sydney Morning Herald
21 hours ago
- Sydney Morning Herald
Locals are flocking to Italian restaurant Decca, where a top chef is dishing his greatest hits
Restaurateur and former Tonka and Coda chef Adam D'Sylva has lived in Melbourne's north-eastern suburbs for 26 years. He's nailed Alphington's needs with Decca. Previous SlideNext Slide 14.5/20How we score Italian$$$$ Sad tales about hospitality's hard times appear to have been exaggerated. That's the impression you get at Decca, anyway, where people are still dandling babies on their laps at 10pm on a rainy Wednesday night. Restaurateur and chef Adam D'Sylva has lived in Melbourne's north-eastern suburbs for 26 years and he's nailed Alphington's needs: somewhere you can drop in for pasta or steak, find a happy meeting place for pals from Toorak to Templestowe, gather for pinot noir and pepperoni pizza, book a 70th birthday in the function room or lug the littlies for dinner, knowing there's kids' spag bol for $18. Setting aside a COVID-19-era consulting gig at W Hotel, this is D'Sylva's first restaurant since Tonka in 2013, the hot Indian place that followed on from the even hotter multi-Asian Coda in 2009. Back then, D'Sylva was fresh off winning The Age Good Food Guide's Young Chef award in 2007 and not long out of high-flying mod-Oz innovator Pearl, where he was head chef. Over the years, he developed a style that plucks from his Indian-Italian heritage and Aussie training. Decca ties it all together. 'I grew up with curry and pasta together on the table. It all works.' Adam D'Sylva A dish from the Pearl days is betel leaf piled with Thai-spiced prawn meat, battered in tapioca flour and fried into a translucent flavour bomb. That's followed up with Italian-style calamari, a dish that's easy to come by, but you need a plate like this – fresh, thinly sliced, expertly fried – to remind you why it's special. The menu is more Italian than anything else – there's pasta, pizza, salumi and cannoli – but it's eclectic. As D'Sylva tells me when I call to check facts, 'I grew up with curry and pasta together on the table. It all works.' Decca diners are proving him right every day. Paccheri are short, fat pasta tubes, perfect for hugging pork ragu made with sausage mince from local butcher Brenta Meats and cooked with mushrooms, thyme and cavolo nero. The dish is bold and brash and I only share it because I need a swap for my mate's duck curry, served as a maryland, which makes it ideal for one person, or so she tries to tell me. The meat pulls apart, the coconutty yellow curry sauce heady but not hot: tick. Between restaurants, D'Sylva launched Boca Gelato, which is available by the scoop and in a frozen tiramisu dessert. This isn't my favourite, a bit fridge-y and the biscuit layer dry, but I'd come back for the classic creme brulee served in a broad, shallow dish so there's more burnt sugar crust. Decca is in the Alphington Paper Mill development, a half-built mess that's been waiting for a supermarket for years. I miss the obscure sign to underground parking and end up leaving the car on a mudflat before trudging to the restaurant. It's a beacon, curvy glass framing ruffled half-curtains, and spilling with golden light. Inside, the room flows past an open kitchen where D'Sylva finally has the pasta extruder and charcoal grill of his dreams. Waiters know the menu backwards and care whether you're enjoying it. The eight-page wine list offers such value I wonder if some prices are errors. To pull out one, Domaine Gautheron Chablis 2023 is $86 here and $75 online; usually, you'd expect a 100 per cent mark-up in a restaurant.

The Age
21 hours ago
- The Age
Locals are flocking to Italian restaurant Decca, where a top chef is dishing his greatest hits
Restaurateur and former Tonka and Coda chef Adam D'Sylva has lived in Melbourne's north-eastern suburbs for 26 years. He's nailed Alphington's needs with Decca. Previous SlideNext Slide 14.5/20How we score Italian$$$$ Sad tales about hospitality's hard times appear to have been exaggerated. That's the impression you get at Decca, anyway, where people are still dandling babies on their laps at 10pm on a rainy Wednesday night. Restaurateur and chef Adam D'Sylva has lived in Melbourne's north-eastern suburbs for 26 years and he's nailed Alphington's needs: somewhere you can drop in for pasta or steak, find a happy meeting place for pals from Toorak to Templestowe, gather for pinot noir and pepperoni pizza, book a 70th birthday in the function room or lug the littlies for dinner, knowing there's kids' spag bol for $18. Setting aside a COVID-19-era consulting gig at W Hotel, this is D'Sylva's first restaurant since Tonka in 2013, the hot Indian place that followed on from the even hotter multi-Asian Coda in 2009. Back then, D'Sylva was fresh off winning The Age Good Food Guide's Young Chef award in 2007 and not long out of high-flying mod-Oz innovator Pearl, where he was head chef. Over the years, he developed a style that plucks from his Indian-Italian heritage and Aussie training. Decca ties it all together. 'I grew up with curry and pasta together on the table. It all works.' Adam D'Sylva A dish from the Pearl days is betel leaf piled with Thai-spiced prawn meat, battered in tapioca flour and fried into a translucent flavour bomb. That's followed up with Italian-style calamari, a dish that's easy to come by, but you need a plate like this – fresh, thinly sliced, expertly fried – to remind you why it's special. The menu is more Italian than anything else – there's pasta, pizza, salumi and cannoli – but it's eclectic. As D'Sylva tells me when I call to check facts, 'I grew up with curry and pasta together on the table. It all works.' Decca diners are proving him right every day. Paccheri are short, fat pasta tubes, perfect for hugging pork ragu made with sausage mince from local butcher Brenta Meats and cooked with mushrooms, thyme and cavolo nero. The dish is bold and brash and I only share it because I need a swap for my mate's duck curry, served as a maryland, which makes it ideal for one person, or so she tries to tell me. The meat pulls apart, the coconutty yellow curry sauce heady but not hot: tick. Between restaurants, D'Sylva launched Boca Gelato, which is available by the scoop and in a frozen tiramisu dessert. This isn't my favourite, a bit fridge-y and the biscuit layer dry, but I'd come back for the classic creme brulee served in a broad, shallow dish so there's more burnt sugar crust. Decca is in the Alphington Paper Mill development, a half-built mess that's been waiting for a supermarket for years. I miss the obscure sign to underground parking and end up leaving the car on a mudflat before trudging to the restaurant. It's a beacon, curvy glass framing ruffled half-curtains, and spilling with golden light. Inside, the room flows past an open kitchen where D'Sylva finally has the pasta extruder and charcoal grill of his dreams. Waiters know the menu backwards and care whether you're enjoying it. The eight-page wine list offers such value I wonder if some prices are errors. To pull out one, Domaine Gautheron Chablis 2023 is $86 here and $75 online; usually, you'd expect a 100 per cent mark-up in a restaurant.