Violet Oon serves up more of the same at new Dempsey Hill outlet

Business Times

15-05-2025

NEW RESTAURANT
Violet Oon Singapore at Dempsey 7 Dempsey Road, #01-05 Singapore 249671 Tel: [phone] Open daily for lunch and dinner: 12 to 3 pm; 6 to 11 pm
[SINGAPORE] The best way to enjoy your meal at Violet Oon's is to not think about the food. At all. Go with other people. Friends. Lovers. Start a quarrel. Propose. OK, maybe don't do that. Gossip. Anything but scrutinise what you're eating.
This way, you won't quibble that the food is too salty, the spice proportions are out of whack, and how the restaurant is more about the idea of Peranakan food, than the dedication and skill that goes into making it so special.
But – you can marvel at how striking the space is. It may have the same DNA as its other outlets, but here in Dempsey Hill, with its colonial roots and garden setting, it's full-blown British Raj on steroids. It has the kind of over-the-top opulence you would admire in someone else's house, but not want it in yours.
Oh, and if the weather report says heavy rain when you're scheduled to eat there, wear rubber boots. We're not kidding. The (single cubicle) toilet is outside, and you have to wade through flood water to get to it, even though the diligent cleaning person is trying his darndest to sweep it away as fast as he can. No wonder the server inspected our Gore-tex footwear before giving us the green light to go out.
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That the restaurant is packed, even on a Monday at lunchtime, shows just how strong the Violet Oon branding is. It's a well-deserved success built on the right optics, clever marketing and a general soft spot for a heritage personality. Have overseas visitors? It's a no-brainer decision to bring them here. It's like taking them to Newton Circus or Jumbo for chilli crab – a tick-the-box of local exotica. Durian optional. Apologies to Bill Gates.
With down-to-earth pricing, pleasant and polished service and an easy-going ambience, it's not hard to like. It's perfect for a gathering of aunties, for family dinners, people of varying levels of importance, anything. But the key is just that – a place to gather, with food. Not for it.
The familiar favourite, kueh pie tee. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT
That said, conversation and lots of sambal belacan make it all go down. We're in the mood for familiar favourites, so we zero in on kueh pie tee (S$15 for six) and ngoh hiang (S$16). Satisfying crunch aside, the turnip filling of the pie tee shell overdoses on fermented soya beans (taucheo) and skimps on bamboo shoots. Ngoh hiang are ugly little nuggets but at least there's crunch from water chestnut and the stuffing is juicy. Drown it in sweet sauce and chilli and all will be well.
Pork satay with peanut and pineapple sauce. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT
Chicken satay (S$18 for three) is better than pork (S$21 for three), simply because the former is plumper and holds its marinade well. The pork version is thick and dry, with a nicely charred surface, but the lean tenderloin just doesn't cut it. We can't say no to the peanut sauce and pineapple though.
Hati babi bungkus are pork liver balls served with pickled mustard greens. PHOTO: VIOLET OON
We're cheered up by hati babi bungkus (S$24) – a row of savoury liver ping pong balls that are seasoned with enough coriander powder to mitigate the gaminess of offal, while giving you plenty of chunky and smooth textures to bite into. Lightly pickled mustard greens offer contrast without clashing.
Fuyong hai features an omelette topped with crab meat. PHOTO: VIOLET OON
We can't say the same about fuyong hai crab (S$24), a sopping wet omelette crowned with crabmeat that's on the fast track to being not fresh. Now, we've always believed that eggs can do no wrong, but this is scrambled beyond redemption. OK, belacan helps a bit.
The dry laksa is a shadow of what it used to be. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT
No excuses for the dry laksa (S$29), which we remember from years back as one of our favourites. Not any more. It looks like it, smells like it, but between the under-fried dried shrimp and stodgy noodles, taste found an escape route and ran off to Tanglin Halt.
Roti jala with banana pengat. PHOTO: VIOLET OON
Thank goodness for dessert, where we don't mind that the roti jala pancakes are on the papery side and lack resilience (S$16). We use it to mop up gooey, caramelised bananas in a smooth pengat base. And you can't go wrong with coconut jelly, ice cream and shaved coconut flesh (S$16) – the three textures of tropicality a failsafe and refreshing end to an inconsistent meal.
Mind you, we stuck with the classics although, like the hati babi bungkus, there were other new menu additions we didn't try which might have changed our mind. But it feels too much of a gamble to take. Still, there'll be gatherings in the offing, no doubt – and pretty soon, one may land here at Dempsey Hill. In which case, we'll likely be back, for better or worse. Either way, we'll be prepared – with water-resistant shoes.
Rating: 6