Touring Watches and Wonders 2025

The Star

19-05-2025

What went down at Switzerland's premier horology festival this year.
In spite of the looming economic uncertainties across the globe, this year's Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva, Switzerland, turned out to be the biggest one yet, with a record 60 brands participating, up from 54 in 2024!
The number of visitors also rose 12% from the previous year to 55,000.
Best of all, the recently wrapped up 2025 edition of the fair that ran from April 1 to 7, still remains one that many horological fans out there can ill-afford to miss as it offers a first look at cutting-edge innovations and new releases from some of the world's finest watchmakers.
Of course, there was also a host of sideshows, including watchmaking demonstrations from apprentices, not to mention a much talked-about new food court, and also a jewellery story-telling workshops for children.
But back to the main event. So, what are the highlights from this year's show?
Well, to start off, for the first time this year, Bvlgari moved from exhibiting in nearby hotel suites around the Palexpo Convention Centre official venue in Geneva to showing in the Watches and Wonders venue proper itself.
This debut was marked inevitably with the unveiling of its Serpenti Aeterna, with only the subtlest suggestion, no more, of a snake on this attractive and sculptural diamond-set bangle watch.
The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the world's thinnest flying tourbillon. — Photos: Bvlgari
The exhibition space invited visitors to immerse themselves in the Maison's Italian culture, distinctive elegance and avant-garde creative vision – through beautiful marble hues and a blend of precious materials.
The Maison also showed off its other new release, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the world's thinnest flying tourbillon with a total thickness of just 1.85mm. Its case diameter is 40mm.
Bvlgari has taken skeletonisation to the next level, maximising light diffusion throughout the movement, creating striking contrasts through contemporary decorative techniques applied to key visible components.
Powered by the BVF 900 tourbillon calibre, this manually wound mechanical movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and offers a 42-hour power reserve.
Rolex has also taken the event by storm with the debut of its Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller collection.
The Land-Dweller aims to bring a sense of harmony between wearers and their world.
Watchmaking workshops are some of the most popular events at the watch fair.
Offered in both 36mm and 40mm sizes, the striking line-up includes 10 references in Everose gold, platinum and steel.
Inspired by the iconic Oysterquartz models of the 1970s, the Land-Dweller has a barrel-shaped case and features brushed surfaces, polished bevels, and a twinlock crown at 3 o'clock.
Its honeycomb dial motif is also new, complemented with luminescent hands and hour markers which emit a soft blue glow.
Looks like this year is almost all about Formula 1 for TAG Heuer!
After all, if you have spent a fortune on the sponsorship of Grand Prix motor racing like the brand has, then you would want returns on that investment.
TAG Heuer had the Formula 1 on its mind with a slew of motor racing offerings on display.
Its key launch at this year's Watches and Wonders was a reworking of its original Formula 1 watch from the 1980s, with all the bright pops of colour that some of us who are old enough to remember as well.
This new-gen F1 watch comes in a core range of colours, with limited runs of different hues for individual Grand Prix applications.
The original was equipped with a quartz movement, but the revival uses neither conventional quartz nor a mechanical calibre, but is instead fitted with the brand's sun-powered 'solargraph' movement.
Normally a discreet and self-effacing watchmaking house from Glashütte in Germany, A. Lange & Söhne surprised and delighted watch lovers by issuing a full 'Honeygold' case and bracelet Odysseus watch.
While perfect for summer swimming in the river Elbe in Dresden, birthplace of the brand's founder Ferdinand Adolph Lange, this watch is more likely to appear on the Côte d'Azur with all the fabulous sun there!
Meanwhile, Panerai introduces exhibition-goers to its new CEO, Emmanuel Perrin who takes over at this storied maker of some very large-diameter watches.
The watch fair also features an outstanding new food court for guests.
There's also now the new lighter, thinner 500m Luminor Marina with its uncompromisingly generous 44mm case presented at the brand's stand.
At Patek Philippe, it was certainly the year of power reserve innovation.
The Geneva-based watchmaking icons showcased the eight-day Calatrava with a day-date function and the Clous de Paris caseband that has now become a signature of the more exalted watches in the Calatrava line.
Moving on to the Piaget stand, CEO Benjamin Comar announces that the brand is revising its beautiful watches from the late 1960s and 1970s – a wonderful period when jewellery and horology came together as never before.
Key to this is a new timepiece for women: the Sixtie.
This is a trapezoidal watch available on a bracelet and recalls the brand's much-celebrated golden age.
A performance in the opening ceremony of Watches and Wonders Geneva.
In contrast, the more independent watchmakers at Watches and Wonders were all about showcasing the flavour of the day, which lately have been a time-only watch with a highly decorated movement, usually without a dial and instead having the mechanics exposed on the face.
Even brands like Zenith joined the party with the G.F.J., a time-only wristwatch equipped with a reconstructed cal. 135 observatory chronometer movement.
While in the past, independent watchmakers often did their own thing, their recognition of current tastes have bestowed upon them great success.
The demand enjoyed by such independent watchmakers is impressive, with many enthusiasts eager to place deposits for deliveries several years down the road.
All in the hopes that the watchmaker of their choice will be the next Francois-Paul Journe (a much-respected independent watchmaker in his own right, who is the founder and namesake of the Swiss brand F.P. Journe)!
Bvlgari invited visitors to immerse themselves in the Maison's Italian culture, distinctive elegance and avant-garde creative vision.
Finally, not to be outdone by its European brethren, Grand Seiko also introduced an array of enchanting novelties that celebrate the brand's flair with gem-setting, Iwate's (the brand's birthplace in Japan) official flower, and an unprecedented achievement in mechanical accuracy.
A particular standout is the Grand Seiko's Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A SLGB001 and SLGB003 models.
These are compact 37mm watches with the ground-breaking Calibre 9RB2 movement that features an annual accuracy of +/- 20 seconds, making it the most precise mainspring-powered movement in the world.
It boasts a 72-hour power reserve and features a regulation switch for fine-tuning during servicing.
Meanwhile, the watch dials for both are inspired by Japan's frosty Kirigamine Highlands near the brand's Shinshu Watch Studio, evoking icy forests with intricate textures.
The platinum SLGB001 – which is limited to 80 pieces – features a light-blue dial paired with a crocodile strap, while the titanium SLGB003 offers a bluish-green dial with a matching bracelet and micro-adjustment clasp.