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14 of the best places to visit in Japan

14 of the best places to visit in Japan

Times5 days ago
I've been writing about Japan for over a decade and visiting for even longer — the more I uncover, the deeper the intrigue becomes. Take saké. I started with a guided tasting in Tokyo, then over subsequent trips worked my way across the country. From red-rice brews crafted by Japan's first female toji in the coastal village of Ine, to an aged vintage in Toyama that was bottled before I went to school, every new sip contains a multitude of insights into this intriguing culture.
The past and future coexist effortlessly here. On the wild Shiretoko Peninsula, the indigenous Ainu worship brown bears and the world's largest owl. Far to the south, the Yaeyama Islands offer subtropical jungles and traditional Ryukyuan villages with red-tiled roofs, while Tokyo's Shinjuku skyscrapers and Harajuku street fashion appear like messengers from 2070. These are 14 of the most rewarding places to visit in Japan and tips on how to make them your own.
This article contains affiliate links, which may earn us revenue
One week The New Golden Route. The classic first-timer's route takes you from Tokyo to the ancient capital of Kyoto, perhaps continuing on to Nara, Osaka or Hiroshima. For a different take on it, try the New Golden Route instead; this takes you from Tokyo to Kyoto via the mountainous Chubu region, and a new shinkansen line on the Sea of Japan coast.
Two weeks Tohoku and Hokkaido. Few visitors head north of the capital, but those who do are rewarded with spectacular landscapes, rich cultures and raucous festivals. And that's before you even consider the winter, when the region enjoys some of the world's most consistent powder snow.
Three weeks The islands. Japan is made up of thousands of islands, with diverse landscapes, climates and cultures, but most trips only take in one or two. From the main island of Honshu you can easily fly down to Okinawa's idyllic Yaeyama Islands, or take a ferry to the protected wilds of the Oki Islands. It's easy to add on a trip to subtropical Goto and Ojika from Kyushu, while from Shikoku you can drive or cycle the Shimanami Kaido between several Inland Sea islands.
A tight budget Michinoku Coastal Trail. Tackle a section of this 637-mile walking route to immerse yourself in northeast Japan's dramatic coastal landscape and welcoming communities, and learn more about the 2011 earthquake and tsunami. You can stick to your budget by staying at minshuku (traditional guesthouses) along the way, or opt for campsites to save even more.
You might expect the birthplace of visionary artist Yayoi Kusama to be a frenetic, overwhelming place, but beyond the City Art Museum, where her eye-catching polka-dotted pieces spill out of the main entrance, Matsumoto is pretty laid back. At its heart is Matsumoto-jo, the oldest castle in Japan. Its austere appearance is offset by the serene peaks of Chubu-Sangaku National Park rising behind it, and the froth of pink blossoms surrounding it each spring.
Matsumoto's easy access to Tokyo, combined with its thriving food and music scenes, have made it a favourite of young escapees from the capital, many of whom open chic independent businesses. Stroll through Nakamachi for upscale cafés and ryokan (inns) in elegant converted warehouses, or cross the river to Frog Street for shops and restaurants in traditional wooden buildings. Spend a weekend here and you'll quickly understand the appeal of the artsy, relaxing Matsumoto lifestyle.
The city's oldest hotel, opened in 1887, Matsumoto Hotel Kagetsu is just five minutes' walk from the castle. Rooms in the annex feature local folk-craft furniture and the dark wood of the communal areas feels pleasantly old-fashioned
With its seamless blend of tradition and modernity, Matsumoto makes a natural stop on Exodus's 14-day Ancient and Modern Japan tour
• Discover our full guide to Japan
In Hokkaido's far northeast, the Shiretoko Peninsula juts out into the Sea of Okhotsk. Its steep mountains and dense forests look impenetrable at the best of times, and come winter the land is blanketed in deep snow and the shoreline jostled by drift ice. Here in its wildest reaches, it's clear why the Ainu people named this place sir etok: the edge of the earth.
On a trip here, you can acquaint yourself with some of the most important deities in the Ainu pantheon. Take a boat trip to see orcas (Repun-kamuy; god of the sea) slicing through the cold waters, and brown bears (Kim-un-kamuy; god of the mountains) picking along the shore. Or go on a wildlife-spotting night drive for tanuki, foxes and deer. If you're lucky, the world's largest owl might even put in an appearance — Blakiston's fish owl (Kotan-kor-kamuy; god of the village).
Kitakobushi Shiretoko Hotel & Resort has impressive views of the sun setting over the Sea of Okhotsk, and warming cuisine focused on fresh, local fish. Some rooms have hot-spring baths directly overlooking the water
Along with Shiretoko, the nine-day Oku Japan Wild Lands of Eastern Hokkaido tour includes dramatic natural sights like volcanic Meakandake and Lake Mashu
• Discover our full guide to Asia
Japan's capital may be an obvious stop on a first-timer's itinerary, but its sheer variety of experiences keeps people coming back time and again. In chic Daikanyama and Meguro, you can stroll along upscale streets with innovative architecture and trendy boutiques. Waseda has intriguing cultural attractions like the Haruki Murakami Library, Hotel Chinzanso's traditional gardens and the stark brilliance of Tange Kenzo's concrete cathedral. And down in Todoroki you can wander through a natural river valley, feeling a world away from the bustle of city life.
This is before we've even touched on the big hitters — Shinjuku's skyscrapers, Shibuya's nightlife, Roppongi's galleries, Harajuku's street fashion. Truly, you'd have to try very hard to get bored of Tokyo.
With its blend of understated luxury and traditional hospitality, Hoshinoya Tokyo is one of the most memorable places to stay in the capital. It somehow manages to carve out a bubble of calm in the middle of the city
Most tours of Japan include a couple of days in the capital; the Tokyo Welcome Package from Bamba Travel gives you a good introduction to the city over four days
• Best hotels in Tokyo• Best things to do in Tokyo
After the devastating 2011 earthquake and tsunami, much of northeast Japan's Tohoku coastline became the Sanriku Fukko (Reconstruction) National Park. Running through it for over 600 miles is the Michinoku Coastal Trail, giving hikers access to not only stunning scenery, but also some of the communities that are still rebuilding over a decade after the disaster. By spending your yen here — perhaps having fresh-from-the-boat sashimi for lunch, or staying at a traditional ryokan — you'll be directly helping that rebuilding effort.
Slowing down to walking pace also encourages you to connect with the people and places you'll encounter. Whether at a museum dedicated to the disaster or over a glass of saké in the local izakaya, you're sure to hear some deeply personal, moving stories of what happened in 2011.
The Tanesashi and Hashikami sections are gentle, making them ideal for beginners. For more experienced hikers, the towering Kitayamazaki cliffs and mysterious tunnels cut through the rock make the section between Tanohata and Kurosaki very rewarding.
Elegant Jodogahama Park Hotel is situated on high ground above its namesake beach, a famous beauty spot on Honshu's northeastern coast. Rooms either look out over the sea, or the forest of pine trees surrounding the hotel
On G Adventures' Japan: Kyoto, Tokyo & the Michinoku Coastal Trail tour you can spend a day hiking part of the coastal route in Iwate
Okinawa, an archipelago in the far southwest of the country, exerts a strong pull on the Japanese imagination. The string of subtropical islands is seen as a paradise where you can recharge over your precious few days of annual leave — just white sand, turquoise sea and no emails.
To see Okinawa at its best, you need to go beyond the over-touristed main islands. This is surprisingly easy, with the far-flung Yaeyama islands connected to the Japanese mainland by plane. On Ishigaki, you can explore mangrove forests, while Taketomi is home to traditional Ryukyuan villages, where the neat square houses have red-tiled roofs and are guarded by shisa (mythical lion) statues. Finally, the elusive, endangered Iriomote Cat stalks the jungles of its namesake island.
Glamping Resort Yokabushi offers villa-style accommodation with an outdoor pool, bar and barbecue area. There's free bike hire, and Tamatori Observation Platform is a few minutes' walk away
Wild Frontiers' Japan in Style tour includes three nights on Ishigaki-jima, giving you plenty of time to see the Yaeyama Islands
The ancient capital of Kyoto is the ideal place to immerse yourself in traditional Japan. Between the Imperial Palace, Nijo Castle, several major shrines and temples and an impressive range of other historic buildings, the city has more fascinating sights than you could see in a dozen visits.
To see Kyoto at its best, though, skip the most famous spots; unless you're very canny about when you go, crowds are likely to spoil your experience. Instead of Arashiyama's main street and river, visit the weaving workshops of Nishijin or take a boat along Fushimi's picturesque canals. Swap Kinkaku-ji and the rock garden at Ryoan-ji for the serene temples and teahouses of Daitoku-ji. And in place of the palace grounds, wander Heian-jingu's gorgeous gardens.
The jewels in Kyoto's crown are sights like elegant Katsura Villa and the hushed grounds of Kokedera (Moss Temple), where the Imperial Household Agency strictly limits visitor numbers. You'll need to apply in advance, but it's worth it.
Opened in 2021, Tadao Ando-designed Shinmonzen combines modern sensibilities with the traditional Japanese aesthetics which help it blend seamlessly into its Gion surroundings
On Intrepid's Japan Real Food Adventure, you can experience some of the highlights of Japan's regional cuisines in Kyoto, Tokyo and Kanazawa
• Best hotels in Kyoto• Best things to do in Kyoto
Only 0.2 per cent of overseas travellers visited underrated Shimane prefecture in 2019, and those savvy few were rewarded with dramatic Sea of Japan scenery, fascinating museums and high-end onsen resorts.
In Matsue, you can admire both one of Japan's best-preserved castles and, at the Adachi Museum of Art, one of its most spectacular gardens. Further west, impressive Izumo-taisha is thought to be the country's oldest shrine, and is a popular place to pray for luck in love.
Mount Sanbe's gentle slopes and scenic lakes are popular with cyclists, and at Sanbe-Azukihara Buried Forest Museum you can see vast cedars that were buried by a volcanic eruption 4,000 years ago. The beautiful nearby world heritage site of Iwami Ginzan includes an Edo-era silver mine and lovingly preserved townscape.
Tickets for the Sunrise Izumo sleeper train are snapped up quickly, but if you manage to get one you're in for a relaxing, comfortable overnight trip from Tokyo to Matsue or Izumo — slow travel at its best. Add on a boat trip to Shimane's Oki islands, a Unesco Global Geopark, for more slow-paced travel with an ecological focus.
Located on Shimane's northern coast, Kai Izumo has spectacular views of the sea and Hinomisaki lighthouse. As well as its onsen and regional cuisine, the hotel is known for its outdoor performances of local kagura theatre
Explore Shimane and more of the San'in coast on two wheels on Spice Cycling's Coastal Japan: San-in Explorer tour
Japan is full of ancient highways and pilgrimage routes, and the Kumano Kodo is among the most atmospheric. Weaving through the holy mountains of Wakayama, Nara and Mie prefectures, this network of trails has been in use for centuries.
There are several routes to choose from, but the Nakahechi offers the best balance of well-maintained, well-signposted trails and breathtaking scenery. If you have a few days to devote to it, you could walk from the trailhead at Takijiri-oji to ancient Hongu-taisha, one of the area's three Grand Shrines and home to the world's largest torii (shrine gate). Stay in the rustic hot-spring town of Yunomine Onsen to soak your (probably achey) legs before pressing on to one of the other Grand Shrines. Visit Nachi-taisha to marvel at a picturesque vermilion shrine building standing before Japan's tallest waterfall, or enjoy a ride on a traditional wooden boat down the Kumano River to Hatayama-taisha.
Ryokan Adumaya is a perfect place to break up your hike. Located in Yunomine Onsen, the traditional inn serves food steamed over the hot springs, and can prepare you a bento lunch for the next day's walking
The Natural Adventure's Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Trail tour takes you along the Nakahechi route over the course of a week, visiting Hongū-taisha and Nachi-taisha
Only a couple of hours from Kyoto, Ine has one of the most unique townscapes in Japan. The village snakes around the edge of a bay, with its buildings jutting out over the water. Known as funaya, or 'boathouses', they were designed so boats could sail right into them, and many of them are still used in this way now. Several of the funaya are now holiday rentals, where you can gaze out over the bay while you eat mouthwateringly fresh fish for dinner, or get cosy in your futon for the night.
There's plenty to do in the area, from kayaking and boat trips to e-bike tours. Be sure to drop by Mukai Shuzo, too. This historic, family-run saké brewery produces a range of traditional-style and innovative nihonshu, including a variety made from celebratory red rice. In 1999, it became the first brewery in Japan to have a female toji (master brewer), Kuniko Mukai.
In a convenient spot near the tourist information centre, Funayado Ichi is a converted funaya renovated in a clean, simple style which naturally draws your eye to the most important point: the view of the bay right outside
Starting with Ine, the Crooked Compass Sea of Japan, Temples & Mountains tour includes beautiful Sea of Japan scenery, craft experiences and hot-spring towns
Hiroshima is an essential stop to understand one of the key moments of Japan's 20th-century history: August 6, 1945, when the US dropped an atom bomb over the city, killing 80,000 people immediately. The Atomic Bomb Dome is a stark and powerful testament to the destruction, while the nearby Peace Memorial Museum and Park provide context, outline nuclear proliferation since the Second World War, and express hope for a more peaceful future.
While it gives the appropriate weight to its past, Hiroshima today is a thriving, colourful city. You can visit a castle and stroll through a traditional garden, admire works of Impressionism in the art gallery and take a tour on a retro tram. And of course, you have to try the local style of okonomiyaki, a delicious layered dish featuring batter, noodles, meat or fish, and a richly umami sauce.
Hiroshima is also a great jumping-off point for Miyajima, with its 'floating' torii, as well as the Seto Inland Sea area. You could take a short cruise around the islands, or over to Shikoku, from where you can take the scenic route back to Honshu via the Shimanami Kaido.
Centrally located Kiro Hiroshima is a calm, peaceful and design-forward space, with exposed concrete, plenty of natural light and a profusion of plants in the communal areas.
The Splendours of Japan with Hiroshima and Takayama Festival tour from Trafalgar takes you across the Shimanami Kaido and on to Hiroshima, with a boat ride to Miyajima included
On Kyushu's northwestern coast is Fukuoka, its most populous city. It's geographically closer to some cities in China and Korea than it is to Tokyo, and with its young and diverse population, it certainly feels cosmopolitan. This variety is reflected in the local food scene — be sure to try out the yatai, food stalls serving everything from local specialities like Hakata ramen (noodles in a pork-heavy broth) and mentaiko (cod roe, served various ways) to staples like yakisoba and Chinese steamed buns.
Beyond the cuisine, there's plenty to explore in Fukuoka. The city is one of the centres of Japan's tech industry, but also has some notable historic sights. Spend some time decompressing at Japan's oldest Zen temple, Shofuku-ji, or explore the preserved Taisho-era houses of the Hakata Machiya Folk Museum.
There are regular ferries from Fukuoka out to subtropical Ojika and the Goto archipelago. As well as enjoying the laid-back island lifestyle here, you can delve into the fascinating history of Japan's 'hidden Christians'.
The five-star Miyako Hotel Hakata is located right by Hakata, the city's bullet train station, and has sweeping city views from the bar and rooftop onsen-fed pool
The Through the Heart of Japan: Tokyo to Fukuoka Cruise — Premium Adventure trip from Exodus takes in several places in both Japan and Korea, including the Goto islands, before finishing in Fukuoka
Japan has been shaped by tectonic activity — from its dramatic rock formations to its fertile volcanic soils, and of course its 25,000-odd hot springs. A good 3,000 of these have been developed, ranging from rustic wooden huts clustered around a few pools to sprawling high-end resorts where each water's mineral composition and effects are meticulously explained.
Ginzan Onsen in Tohoku's Yamagata prefecture is one of Japan's most charming hot-spring towns, and was an inspiration for the bathhouse in Spirited Away. Its waters were first discovered around 500 years ago, when the nearby silver mine was active. But its heyday came in the Taisho era (1912–1926), when large and elegant inns were built alongside its small canal.
Visit today and you'll almost feel like you've slipped back 100 years — especially in the evening, when the cobblestone main street is lit by the warm glow of gas lamps. Stay overnight for the full experience: kaiseki meals served in your ryokan, a yukata-clad wander by the canal, and plenty of time spent soaking in the thermal waters. It's sure to be a restorative experience.
Set right by the canal, Kosekiya Ryokan is a classic hot-spring hotel. Expect lavish meals, mineral-rich waters, and yukata laid out in your tatami-matted room, ready for you to wear around town
kosekiya.jp
Ginzan Onsen is best experienced with an overnight stay, which is included as part of Crooked Compass's 12-day Tohoku — Uncharted Japan tour
Big, brash and bright — Osaka has a well-deserved reputation in Japan, and makes a perfect contrast to nearby Kyoto. Stop by the Dotonbori area in the evening to see the city at its high-energy best, with neon signs reflecting in the canal, music blasting from amusement arcades and bars, and groups of locals going 'food-hopping'. The city is a gastronomic haven, so do as they do and visit multiple restaurants, food stands and izakaya over the course of your night to try as much as possible.
Osaka is packed with things to do beyond eating and drinking, too. The impressive castle is one of Japan's most-visited destinations, and between its historical displays and great views, it's well worth seeing. There are also several top-tier museums, covering subjects from contemporary art and east Asian ceramics to daily life in Edo-era Osaka and modern-day issues of human rights in Japan. But the city's obsession with food comes up again for the most famous of the lot: the Cupnoodles Museum, dedicated to the invention of instant ramen right here in Osaka.
Lean into the colourful Osaka aesthetic at Cross Hotel, right in the heart of Dotonbori — some rooms even have direct views of the famous Glico man sign over the canal.
Join G Adventures' Epic Japan: Speed Trains & Street Food tour for an introduction to Osaka's food and nightlife scenes, and plenty of free time to explore the city
Nagasaki is a beautiful port city with a fascinating history. One of its unique attractions is Dejima, the artificial island that for over 200 years was the only place European traders could enter Japan. The nearby Chinatown is Japan's oldest, showing this community's lasting impact on the city.
Further up the Urakami River are the Atomic Bomb Museum and National Peace Memorial Hall, where you can learn about August 9, 1945. The bomb dropped here was even more powerful than the one used in Hiroshima, and only Nagasaki's geography kept the day's death toll to around 70,000, rather than higher. The hypocentre was over Urakami Cathedral, where people were at morning prayer; some of the building's remains have been preserved, next to the rebuilt church.
Like Hiroshima, the city remembers its past but is also forward-looking, with a thriving arts scene and several excellent galleries, museums and gardens. Be sure to try its fusion dishes while you're here, such as hearty kakuni manju (pork belly in a Chinese-style bun), toruko rice (a mix of rice, noodles, pork cutlet and curry) and Portuguese-inspired castella cake.
Garden Terrace Nagasaki, across the bay from the city centre, makes a special place to stay. Designed by Kengo Kuma, it's a modernist oasis of calm, with a spa, ocean views, a rooftop infinity pool and several excellent restaurants.
Intrepid Travel's Southern Japan Experience itinerary includes some of Nagasaki's major sights, plus free time with a tram pass to explore further on your own
• Best Japan tours• Cherry blossom in Japan: where and when to see sakura
Additional reporting by Imogen Lepere
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This Tokyo hotel is surrounded by glorious Japanese gardens
This Tokyo hotel is surrounded by glorious Japanese gardens

Times

time9 hours ago

  • Times

This Tokyo hotel is surrounded by glorious Japanese gardens

The Grand Prince Hotel Shin Takanawa rises serenely from a mass of greenery, the white balconies on each room making its façade look almost like it's been embossed. Of the three Seibu Prince hotels here, Shin Takanawa offers the best balance of comfort and cost — and guests can use some facilities in the other two properties as well. All three benefit from access to sprawling Japanese gardens, which are especially beautiful in springtime. The hotel's large size can work against it: it's popular for conferences, so the common areas sometimes become crowded, and service can lack a personal touch at busy times. However, it's also a strength: among other facilities, the hotel has room for three restaurants, two lounges and an excellent bar. Between its convenient location near Shinagawa Station, comfortable rooms, well-maintained facilities and reasonable price point, Grand Prince Hotel Shin Takanawa makes a great base for exploring Tokyo and the wider Kanto region. This article contains affiliate links, which may earn us revenue Score 7/10Most of the hotel's 908 rooms — the Superiors — are on the first 30 floors. Each has a small balcony and a simple but sufficient bathroom with bath, shower and good-size mirror. The Natural category rooms are slightly soulless, but the Modern category ones have touches like adjustable lighting and earth-toned bed runners that warm things up significantly. They're all large by Tokyo standards, but the triple and quad rooms feel a bit cramped. The 14th and 15th floors are reserved for Club rooms (which are similar to the Modern Superior rooms) and spacious elegant suites, which all come with added perks. Chief among these is access to the Club Lounge, where complimentary breakfasts and snacks are served in a luxurious indoor space — all rich, dark colours and natural materials — or on the terrace. Club-floor guests also have access to facilities in the neighbouring Seibu Prince properties: the sauna and whirlpool bath (free) and the gym (extra fee) in the Prince Sakura Tower Tokyo; and the Club Lounge in the Grand Prince Takanawa. Many rooms on the hotel's north side have clear views of the red-and-white Tokyo Tower, while those facing south will enjoy the serene sight of Mount Fuji in the distance on clear days. Score 8/10There aren't many restaurants in the immediate vicinity of the hotel, but with so many in-house options you won't mind. Buffet breakfasts at Zakuro include a huge range of Japanese and western food, omelettes and scrambled eggs to order, and a salad and fruit bar. The signature dish is the Prince Hotel original curry (chicken in a thick, rich sauce served with Japanese rice) — definitely a hearty way to start your day. Lunch and dinner are also buffet-style. Shimizu serves Japanese gozen-style breakfasts: rice, a main dish such as grilled fish plus various sides. Set menus are also available at lunch and dinner, ranging from tempura and sushi to complex kaiseki meals. Children's menus are available, and there are some à la carte dishes at dinner. The third restaurant, Kokiden, focuses on Chinese cuisine. The lunch and dinner menus mostly feature Cantonese and Sichuan dishes, and you can choose between extensive set meals and à la carte. Again, kids' menus are available. Then there's the Momiji Lounge, which specialises in afternoon tea, with seasonal specials featuring different fruits and flowers like delicate pink cherry blossoms in spring or juicy, refreshing Yubari melon in summer. The relaxed space also has simple dining options like pasta, salads and sandwiches, plus everything from tea and coffee to cocktails, which you can enjoy with live music, often classical or usually jazz, on Friday and Saturday evenings. • Discover our full guide to Japan• More of the best hotels in Tokyo Score 7/10Encompassing almost five acres between the Shin Takanawa, Grand Prince Takanawa and Prince Sakura Tokyo Tower hotels, the Prince Hotel Japanese Garden is an impressive sight. Considered planting means it's beautiful in every season, but spring is the standout, when its 210 species of cherry blossom trees are in bloom. As with all of the hotel's public areas, the gardens are wheelchair-accessible, and staff are happy to assist with the hills and bumpy areas. A koi carp-feeding activity is available for children and in the summer months families can enjoy the outdoor Diamond Pool, while the rooftop Sky Pool is restricted to guests aged 16 or above. Score 7/10The hotel is in a fairly quiet neighbourhood without many tourist sights. That said, there are some charming shrines and temples nearby, and bayside Tennozu Isle is half an hour's walk away. Shinagawa Station — ten minutes' walk away — and the area just east has a plethora of shops, restaurants and bars. The location is ideal for anyone using Haneda airport, which is around 25 minutes' drive away, or less than 15 minutes by train from Shinagawa Station. Shinagawa is a major transport hub, with multiple lines including the useful Yamanote loop, the Narita Express to Tokyo's other airport, and bullet trains on the Tokaido line west to Shizuoka, Nagoya, Kyoto and Osaka. Under five minutes' walk west of the hotel is Takanawadai Station on the Asakusa subway line. You can use the excellent public transport connections for easy access to sights including Tsukiji's bustling Outer Market, river cruises from Hinode Pier, Tokyo Port Brewery (one of very few saké producers in the city) and Tokyo Tower. Price B&B doubles from £149 Restaurant mains from £13Family-friendly YAccessible Y Rebecca Hallet was a guest of Grand Prince Hotel Shin Takanawa ( • Best things to do in Tokyo• Tokyo v Osaka: which is better?

Keir Starmer would be a much happier politician in Japan
Keir Starmer would be a much happier politician in Japan

New Statesman​

time19 hours ago

  • New Statesman​

Keir Starmer would be a much happier politician in Japan

You're mad, I was repeatedly told, to go to Japan in summer. The land of the rising sun burns hot in July. Online forums warned of the dangers of drowning in your own sweat, and the risks of being deafened by the din of cicadas in the trees. They weren't wrong. But some Japan is better than no Japan, and if nothing else, it allows you to escape a far worse sound: the endless blare of the iPhone shutter from a thousand tourists trying to take that perfect shot of cherry blossom. To be in Japan in the summer is to live a procession of dualities. Order and chaos. Stillness and noise. Heat and… well, more heat, really. To travel on the Shinkansen, the Japanese bullet train, is to experience a level of human engineering that quickens the pulse. But that quickening won't come from the sound. It is shockingly quiet: not a blip from a phone, the murmur of conversation, or even the hum of an engine transporting you seamlessly along the spine of the country. The quiet comes with a procession of courtly train conductors, walking precisely through every carriage, only to turn and bow to the smattering of passengers in each. It is serene, but it's a serenity quickly shattered as soon as you step on to the train platform – any train platform – where a wall of pitch and sound assaults every sense. Each Japanese station boasts its own jingle, played repeatedly. In public places, it is a country that seems to worry about even a moment's repose. I watched a cleaner in Hiroshima station gamely pulling around his rubbish cart, which played a horrible jingle every time it moved. I sympathised, but he seemed completely unbothered. There is one sphere of Japanese life that has resisted duality, and even eluded interest, for decades: politics. Or rather, it has resisted contestation, which is a peculiar place for a democratic polity to sit. The British Conservative Party likes to think it's the most successful political party in the history of democracy. The Japanese Liberal Democratic Party (LDP) might have something to say about that. It has been in power for all but three years since 1955. In the time since postwar reconstruction, Japanese politics has not been so much a battle between ideas or parties as an extended patronage network that flows through the LDP. Japanese politics has been fought over incremental change and advancement, where stability and consensus have been prized over flair or risk, and where the end goal is gradual progress, and politics is not about competing visions for how society ought to be. It is a politics that values internal harmony and technocratic, managerial leadership over rhetorical flourishes or ideological radicalism. Remind you of anyone? Keir Starmer would fit in well with this political culture; this is partly why he is struggling in our own. It is often said that the Prime Minister is boring. In fact, he is the most fascinating aberration in British political terms since Thatcherism. Great leaders shape political culture but they also tend to swim with its current, not against it. British politicians are expected to offer vision – something Starmer and his aides are wary of, if not actively hostile towards. His government wants to show, not tell. But whether we like it or not, British politics is entrenched in a culture that expects leaders to offer direction. This has left Starmer unmoored, and less able to defend a perfectly creditable record. The space where he refuses to offer ideological direction is being filled by the radical right. In any case, a Starmerite approach isn't working for Japan or the LDP any more. For the first time in a long time, the hard right is showing signs of life in Japanese politics. Last month, a relatively new party 'Sanseitō' (roughly translated as 'the Party of Do-it-Yourself') won a clutch of seats in the upper house, depriving the LDP of its majority. Its leader Sohei Kamiya, cites direct inspiration from Trump, promising to put 'Japan first'. Its success feels familiar, speaking to voters' discontent over wage stagnation, rising food (rice) prices and immigration (still extremely low by Western standards). Yet its success is also peculiarly Japanese, majoring on the problems of over-tourism, citing concern about the behaviour of foreigners, and raising the alarm over Japanese ethnic purity. The LDP now faces a familiar problem as Western centre-right parties: should it defend liberal values or move towards the agenda of those who decry them? In a sense, then, Japan is catching up with our politics as we catch up with its economics. We've now had 15 years of stagnation. They've had 25. We are rapidly ageing, just like Japan. Our economy is becoming more indebted – just like theirs. Both Britain and Japan are having to pay for years of quantitative easing and loose monetary policy while remaining over-regulated and bureaucratic. Japanese society, meanwhile, has another duality: astonishing 20th-century infrastructure, and yet in many ways it's digitally backward. Cash is still king, fax machines remain ubiquitous; everything feels weirdly Eighties. Subscribe to The New Statesman today from only £8.99 per month Subscribe Perhaps Britain, rudderless and under pressure from societies that are rapidly advancing in technological terms, will end up in the same place. Indeed, we're probably already there: Britain as the 21st-century Japan, stuck in a rut. But with less good trains, and ruder conductors. [See also: It's time for angry left populism] Related

14 of the best places to visit in Japan
14 of the best places to visit in Japan

Times

time5 days ago

  • Times

14 of the best places to visit in Japan

I've been writing about Japan for over a decade and visiting for even longer — the more I uncover, the deeper the intrigue becomes. Take saké. I started with a guided tasting in Tokyo, then over subsequent trips worked my way across the country. From red-rice brews crafted by Japan's first female toji in the coastal village of Ine, to an aged vintage in Toyama that was bottled before I went to school, every new sip contains a multitude of insights into this intriguing culture. The past and future coexist effortlessly here. On the wild Shiretoko Peninsula, the indigenous Ainu worship brown bears and the world's largest owl. Far to the south, the Yaeyama Islands offer subtropical jungles and traditional Ryukyuan villages with red-tiled roofs, while Tokyo's Shinjuku skyscrapers and Harajuku street fashion appear like messengers from 2070. These are 14 of the most rewarding places to visit in Japan and tips on how to make them your own. This article contains affiliate links, which may earn us revenue One week The New Golden Route. The classic first-timer's route takes you from Tokyo to the ancient capital of Kyoto, perhaps continuing on to Nara, Osaka or Hiroshima. For a different take on it, try the New Golden Route instead; this takes you from Tokyo to Kyoto via the mountainous Chubu region, and a new shinkansen line on the Sea of Japan coast. Two weeks Tohoku and Hokkaido. Few visitors head north of the capital, but those who do are rewarded with spectacular landscapes, rich cultures and raucous festivals. And that's before you even consider the winter, when the region enjoys some of the world's most consistent powder snow. Three weeks The islands. Japan is made up of thousands of islands, with diverse landscapes, climates and cultures, but most trips only take in one or two. From the main island of Honshu you can easily fly down to Okinawa's idyllic Yaeyama Islands, or take a ferry to the protected wilds of the Oki Islands. It's easy to add on a trip to subtropical Goto and Ojika from Kyushu, while from Shikoku you can drive or cycle the Shimanami Kaido between several Inland Sea islands. A tight budget Michinoku Coastal Trail. Tackle a section of this 637-mile walking route to immerse yourself in northeast Japan's dramatic coastal landscape and welcoming communities, and learn more about the 2011 earthquake and tsunami. You can stick to your budget by staying at minshuku (traditional guesthouses) along the way, or opt for campsites to save even more. You might expect the birthplace of visionary artist Yayoi Kusama to be a frenetic, overwhelming place, but beyond the City Art Museum, where her eye-catching polka-dotted pieces spill out of the main entrance, Matsumoto is pretty laid back. At its heart is Matsumoto-jo, the oldest castle in Japan. Its austere appearance is offset by the serene peaks of Chubu-Sangaku National Park rising behind it, and the froth of pink blossoms surrounding it each spring. Matsumoto's easy access to Tokyo, combined with its thriving food and music scenes, have made it a favourite of young escapees from the capital, many of whom open chic independent businesses. Stroll through Nakamachi for upscale cafés and ryokan (inns) in elegant converted warehouses, or cross the river to Frog Street for shops and restaurants in traditional wooden buildings. Spend a weekend here and you'll quickly understand the appeal of the artsy, relaxing Matsumoto lifestyle. The city's oldest hotel, opened in 1887, Matsumoto Hotel Kagetsu is just five minutes' walk from the castle. Rooms in the annex feature local folk-craft furniture and the dark wood of the communal areas feels pleasantly old-fashioned With its seamless blend of tradition and modernity, Matsumoto makes a natural stop on Exodus's 14-day Ancient and Modern Japan tour • Discover our full guide to Japan In Hokkaido's far northeast, the Shiretoko Peninsula juts out into the Sea of Okhotsk. Its steep mountains and dense forests look impenetrable at the best of times, and come winter the land is blanketed in deep snow and the shoreline jostled by drift ice. Here in its wildest reaches, it's clear why the Ainu people named this place sir etok: the edge of the earth. On a trip here, you can acquaint yourself with some of the most important deities in the Ainu pantheon. Take a boat trip to see orcas (Repun-kamuy; god of the sea) slicing through the cold waters, and brown bears (Kim-un-kamuy; god of the mountains) picking along the shore. Or go on a wildlife-spotting night drive for tanuki, foxes and deer. If you're lucky, the world's largest owl might even put in an appearance — Blakiston's fish owl (Kotan-kor-kamuy; god of the village). Kitakobushi Shiretoko Hotel & Resort has impressive views of the sun setting over the Sea of Okhotsk, and warming cuisine focused on fresh, local fish. Some rooms have hot-spring baths directly overlooking the water Along with Shiretoko, the nine-day Oku Japan Wild Lands of Eastern Hokkaido tour includes dramatic natural sights like volcanic Meakandake and Lake Mashu • Discover our full guide to Asia Japan's capital may be an obvious stop on a first-timer's itinerary, but its sheer variety of experiences keeps people coming back time and again. In chic Daikanyama and Meguro, you can stroll along upscale streets with innovative architecture and trendy boutiques. Waseda has intriguing cultural attractions like the Haruki Murakami Library, Hotel Chinzanso's traditional gardens and the stark brilliance of Tange Kenzo's concrete cathedral. And down in Todoroki you can wander through a natural river valley, feeling a world away from the bustle of city life. This is before we've even touched on the big hitters — Shinjuku's skyscrapers, Shibuya's nightlife, Roppongi's galleries, Harajuku's street fashion. Truly, you'd have to try very hard to get bored of Tokyo. With its blend of understated luxury and traditional hospitality, Hoshinoya Tokyo is one of the most memorable places to stay in the capital. It somehow manages to carve out a bubble of calm in the middle of the city Most tours of Japan include a couple of days in the capital; the Tokyo Welcome Package from Bamba Travel gives you a good introduction to the city over four days • Best hotels in Tokyo• Best things to do in Tokyo After the devastating 2011 earthquake and tsunami, much of northeast Japan's Tohoku coastline became the Sanriku Fukko (Reconstruction) National Park. Running through it for over 600 miles is the Michinoku Coastal Trail, giving hikers access to not only stunning scenery, but also some of the communities that are still rebuilding over a decade after the disaster. By spending your yen here — perhaps having fresh-from-the-boat sashimi for lunch, or staying at a traditional ryokan — you'll be directly helping that rebuilding effort. Slowing down to walking pace also encourages you to connect with the people and places you'll encounter. Whether at a museum dedicated to the disaster or over a glass of saké in the local izakaya, you're sure to hear some deeply personal, moving stories of what happened in 2011. The Tanesashi and Hashikami sections are gentle, making them ideal for beginners. For more experienced hikers, the towering Kitayamazaki cliffs and mysterious tunnels cut through the rock make the section between Tanohata and Kurosaki very rewarding. Elegant Jodogahama Park Hotel is situated on high ground above its namesake beach, a famous beauty spot on Honshu's northeastern coast. Rooms either look out over the sea, or the forest of pine trees surrounding the hotel On G Adventures' Japan: Kyoto, Tokyo & the Michinoku Coastal Trail tour you can spend a day hiking part of the coastal route in Iwate Okinawa, an archipelago in the far southwest of the country, exerts a strong pull on the Japanese imagination. The string of subtropical islands is seen as a paradise where you can recharge over your precious few days of annual leave — just white sand, turquoise sea and no emails. To see Okinawa at its best, you need to go beyond the over-touristed main islands. This is surprisingly easy, with the far-flung Yaeyama islands connected to the Japanese mainland by plane. On Ishigaki, you can explore mangrove forests, while Taketomi is home to traditional Ryukyuan villages, where the neat square houses have red-tiled roofs and are guarded by shisa (mythical lion) statues. Finally, the elusive, endangered Iriomote Cat stalks the jungles of its namesake island. Glamping Resort Yokabushi offers villa-style accommodation with an outdoor pool, bar and barbecue area. There's free bike hire, and Tamatori Observation Platform is a few minutes' walk away Wild Frontiers' Japan in Style tour includes three nights on Ishigaki-jima, giving you plenty of time to see the Yaeyama Islands The ancient capital of Kyoto is the ideal place to immerse yourself in traditional Japan. Between the Imperial Palace, Nijo Castle, several major shrines and temples and an impressive range of other historic buildings, the city has more fascinating sights than you could see in a dozen visits. To see Kyoto at its best, though, skip the most famous spots; unless you're very canny about when you go, crowds are likely to spoil your experience. Instead of Arashiyama's main street and river, visit the weaving workshops of Nishijin or take a boat along Fushimi's picturesque canals. Swap Kinkaku-ji and the rock garden at Ryoan-ji for the serene temples and teahouses of Daitoku-ji. And in place of the palace grounds, wander Heian-jingu's gorgeous gardens. The jewels in Kyoto's crown are sights like elegant Katsura Villa and the hushed grounds of Kokedera (Moss Temple), where the Imperial Household Agency strictly limits visitor numbers. You'll need to apply in advance, but it's worth it. Opened in 2021, Tadao Ando-designed Shinmonzen combines modern sensibilities with the traditional Japanese aesthetics which help it blend seamlessly into its Gion surroundings On Intrepid's Japan Real Food Adventure, you can experience some of the highlights of Japan's regional cuisines in Kyoto, Tokyo and Kanazawa • Best hotels in Kyoto• Best things to do in Kyoto Only 0.2 per cent of overseas travellers visited underrated Shimane prefecture in 2019, and those savvy few were rewarded with dramatic Sea of Japan scenery, fascinating museums and high-end onsen resorts. In Matsue, you can admire both one of Japan's best-preserved castles and, at the Adachi Museum of Art, one of its most spectacular gardens. Further west, impressive Izumo-taisha is thought to be the country's oldest shrine, and is a popular place to pray for luck in love. Mount Sanbe's gentle slopes and scenic lakes are popular with cyclists, and at Sanbe-Azukihara Buried Forest Museum you can see vast cedars that were buried by a volcanic eruption 4,000 years ago. The beautiful nearby world heritage site of Iwami Ginzan includes an Edo-era silver mine and lovingly preserved townscape. Tickets for the Sunrise Izumo sleeper train are snapped up quickly, but if you manage to get one you're in for a relaxing, comfortable overnight trip from Tokyo to Matsue or Izumo — slow travel at its best. Add on a boat trip to Shimane's Oki islands, a Unesco Global Geopark, for more slow-paced travel with an ecological focus. Located on Shimane's northern coast, Kai Izumo has spectacular views of the sea and Hinomisaki lighthouse. As well as its onsen and regional cuisine, the hotel is known for its outdoor performances of local kagura theatre Explore Shimane and more of the San'in coast on two wheels on Spice Cycling's Coastal Japan: San-in Explorer tour Japan is full of ancient highways and pilgrimage routes, and the Kumano Kodo is among the most atmospheric. Weaving through the holy mountains of Wakayama, Nara and Mie prefectures, this network of trails has been in use for centuries. There are several routes to choose from, but the Nakahechi offers the best balance of well-maintained, well-signposted trails and breathtaking scenery. If you have a few days to devote to it, you could walk from the trailhead at Takijiri-oji to ancient Hongu-taisha, one of the area's three Grand Shrines and home to the world's largest torii (shrine gate). Stay in the rustic hot-spring town of Yunomine Onsen to soak your (probably achey) legs before pressing on to one of the other Grand Shrines. Visit Nachi-taisha to marvel at a picturesque vermilion shrine building standing before Japan's tallest waterfall, or enjoy a ride on a traditional wooden boat down the Kumano River to Hatayama-taisha. Ryokan Adumaya is a perfect place to break up your hike. Located in Yunomine Onsen, the traditional inn serves food steamed over the hot springs, and can prepare you a bento lunch for the next day's walking The Natural Adventure's Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Trail tour takes you along the Nakahechi route over the course of a week, visiting Hongū-taisha and Nachi-taisha Only a couple of hours from Kyoto, Ine has one of the most unique townscapes in Japan. The village snakes around the edge of a bay, with its buildings jutting out over the water. Known as funaya, or 'boathouses', they were designed so boats could sail right into them, and many of them are still used in this way now. Several of the funaya are now holiday rentals, where you can gaze out over the bay while you eat mouthwateringly fresh fish for dinner, or get cosy in your futon for the night. There's plenty to do in the area, from kayaking and boat trips to e-bike tours. Be sure to drop by Mukai Shuzo, too. This historic, family-run saké brewery produces a range of traditional-style and innovative nihonshu, including a variety made from celebratory red rice. In 1999, it became the first brewery in Japan to have a female toji (master brewer), Kuniko Mukai. In a convenient spot near the tourist information centre, Funayado Ichi is a converted funaya renovated in a clean, simple style which naturally draws your eye to the most important point: the view of the bay right outside Starting with Ine, the Crooked Compass Sea of Japan, Temples & Mountains tour includes beautiful Sea of Japan scenery, craft experiences and hot-spring towns Hiroshima is an essential stop to understand one of the key moments of Japan's 20th-century history: August 6, 1945, when the US dropped an atom bomb over the city, killing 80,000 people immediately. The Atomic Bomb Dome is a stark and powerful testament to the destruction, while the nearby Peace Memorial Museum and Park provide context, outline nuclear proliferation since the Second World War, and express hope for a more peaceful future. While it gives the appropriate weight to its past, Hiroshima today is a thriving, colourful city. You can visit a castle and stroll through a traditional garden, admire works of Impressionism in the art gallery and take a tour on a retro tram. And of course, you have to try the local style of okonomiyaki, a delicious layered dish featuring batter, noodles, meat or fish, and a richly umami sauce. Hiroshima is also a great jumping-off point for Miyajima, with its 'floating' torii, as well as the Seto Inland Sea area. You could take a short cruise around the islands, or over to Shikoku, from where you can take the scenic route back to Honshu via the Shimanami Kaido. Centrally located Kiro Hiroshima is a calm, peaceful and design-forward space, with exposed concrete, plenty of natural light and a profusion of plants in the communal areas. The Splendours of Japan with Hiroshima and Takayama Festival tour from Trafalgar takes you across the Shimanami Kaido and on to Hiroshima, with a boat ride to Miyajima included On Kyushu's northwestern coast is Fukuoka, its most populous city. It's geographically closer to some cities in China and Korea than it is to Tokyo, and with its young and diverse population, it certainly feels cosmopolitan. This variety is reflected in the local food scene — be sure to try out the yatai, food stalls serving everything from local specialities like Hakata ramen (noodles in a pork-heavy broth) and mentaiko (cod roe, served various ways) to staples like yakisoba and Chinese steamed buns. Beyond the cuisine, there's plenty to explore in Fukuoka. The city is one of the centres of Japan's tech industry, but also has some notable historic sights. Spend some time decompressing at Japan's oldest Zen temple, Shofuku-ji, or explore the preserved Taisho-era houses of the Hakata Machiya Folk Museum. There are regular ferries from Fukuoka out to subtropical Ojika and the Goto archipelago. As well as enjoying the laid-back island lifestyle here, you can delve into the fascinating history of Japan's 'hidden Christians'. The five-star Miyako Hotel Hakata is located right by Hakata, the city's bullet train station, and has sweeping city views from the bar and rooftop onsen-fed pool The Through the Heart of Japan: Tokyo to Fukuoka Cruise — Premium Adventure trip from Exodus takes in several places in both Japan and Korea, including the Goto islands, before finishing in Fukuoka Japan has been shaped by tectonic activity — from its dramatic rock formations to its fertile volcanic soils, and of course its 25,000-odd hot springs. A good 3,000 of these have been developed, ranging from rustic wooden huts clustered around a few pools to sprawling high-end resorts where each water's mineral composition and effects are meticulously explained. Ginzan Onsen in Tohoku's Yamagata prefecture is one of Japan's most charming hot-spring towns, and was an inspiration for the bathhouse in Spirited Away. Its waters were first discovered around 500 years ago, when the nearby silver mine was active. But its heyday came in the Taisho era (1912–1926), when large and elegant inns were built alongside its small canal. Visit today and you'll almost feel like you've slipped back 100 years — especially in the evening, when the cobblestone main street is lit by the warm glow of gas lamps. Stay overnight for the full experience: kaiseki meals served in your ryokan, a yukata-clad wander by the canal, and plenty of time spent soaking in the thermal waters. It's sure to be a restorative experience. Set right by the canal, Kosekiya Ryokan is a classic hot-spring hotel. Expect lavish meals, mineral-rich waters, and yukata laid out in your tatami-matted room, ready for you to wear around town Ginzan Onsen is best experienced with an overnight stay, which is included as part of Crooked Compass's 12-day Tohoku — Uncharted Japan tour Big, brash and bright — Osaka has a well-deserved reputation in Japan, and makes a perfect contrast to nearby Kyoto. Stop by the Dotonbori area in the evening to see the city at its high-energy best, with neon signs reflecting in the canal, music blasting from amusement arcades and bars, and groups of locals going 'food-hopping'. The city is a gastronomic haven, so do as they do and visit multiple restaurants, food stands and izakaya over the course of your night to try as much as possible. Osaka is packed with things to do beyond eating and drinking, too. The impressive castle is one of Japan's most-visited destinations, and between its historical displays and great views, it's well worth seeing. There are also several top-tier museums, covering subjects from contemporary art and east Asian ceramics to daily life in Edo-era Osaka and modern-day issues of human rights in Japan. But the city's obsession with food comes up again for the most famous of the lot: the Cupnoodles Museum, dedicated to the invention of instant ramen right here in Osaka. Lean into the colourful Osaka aesthetic at Cross Hotel, right in the heart of Dotonbori — some rooms even have direct views of the famous Glico man sign over the canal. Join G Adventures' Epic Japan: Speed Trains & Street Food tour for an introduction to Osaka's food and nightlife scenes, and plenty of free time to explore the city Nagasaki is a beautiful port city with a fascinating history. One of its unique attractions is Dejima, the artificial island that for over 200 years was the only place European traders could enter Japan. The nearby Chinatown is Japan's oldest, showing this community's lasting impact on the city. Further up the Urakami River are the Atomic Bomb Museum and National Peace Memorial Hall, where you can learn about August 9, 1945. The bomb dropped here was even more powerful than the one used in Hiroshima, and only Nagasaki's geography kept the day's death toll to around 70,000, rather than higher. The hypocentre was over Urakami Cathedral, where people were at morning prayer; some of the building's remains have been preserved, next to the rebuilt church. Like Hiroshima, the city remembers its past but is also forward-looking, with a thriving arts scene and several excellent galleries, museums and gardens. Be sure to try its fusion dishes while you're here, such as hearty kakuni manju (pork belly in a Chinese-style bun), toruko rice (a mix of rice, noodles, pork cutlet and curry) and Portuguese-inspired castella cake. Garden Terrace Nagasaki, across the bay from the city centre, makes a special place to stay. Designed by Kengo Kuma, it's a modernist oasis of calm, with a spa, ocean views, a rooftop infinity pool and several excellent restaurants. Intrepid Travel's Southern Japan Experience itinerary includes some of Nagasaki's major sights, plus free time with a tram pass to explore further on your own • Best Japan tours• Cherry blossom in Japan: where and when to see sakura Additional reporting by Imogen Lepere

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