‘Light, androgynous and chic in the heat' – why waistcoats are the new wardrobe must-have

CNA

3 days ago

As summer heatwaves intensify, assembling an appropriate outfit to wear in the city – when the desire to look smart and polished is often stymied by the more pressing need to stay cool on the commute – can feel increasingly challenging. What do you wear when the floaty chiffon dress and denim cut-offs you wore on holiday just won't do? Enter the waistcoat.
First popularised in the 17th century, when Charles II decreed the 'vest' to be a symbol of nobility and part of an Englishman's correct uniform, the formal menswear garment has recently been co-opted by the style set as a sleek, more structured summer alternative to the basic T-shirt or tank. The trend has been percolating on the runway for some seasons, but has now made the transition off it, with Alexa Chung and actress Ayo Edebiri cementing its status as a worthy wardrobe staple.
'I've always been drawn to waistcoats, particularly in the warmer months,' said Danielle Mulham, founder of Australian womenswear label Posse, whose linen waistcoats have become something of an 'It' item among the minimalist Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy-adoring fashion crowd. 'They allow you to feel chic and put-together without too much effort.'
The brand's Emma vest, which features a high square neckline and a lightly flared hem, has been worn by Sofia Richie and The White Lotus actress Michelle Monaghan and accounted for about 17 per cent of sales last year. 'Waistcoats are our most popular tops subcategory,' said Mulham, whose other popular styles include the V-neck Lorenzo and the on-trend butter-yellow linen Nancy, which features spaghetti-like straps and would look right at home with an Aperol spritz on the Italian Riviera (£240; US$322, S$416, mytheresa.com).
Sometimes referred to as a suit vest, the current iteration of the waistcoat is generally fitted and cinched at the waist, and typically worn buttoned up. 'It's a sophisticated take on what is effectively, for my purposes anyway, a 'going out' top,' said fashion journalist Monica de La Villardiere. 'You just throw jeans on, and you're dressed up.'
For a summer evening event or dinner, she alternates between a Posse tomato-red style with mottled brown buttons and a tailored black waistcoat with a ribbon cinch at the back by Danish label By Malene Birger, which she styles with blue denim and simple slingbacks. 'It's so easy, yet it looks intentional and it's a nod to the trends without getting all wound up about them,' she said. For her, a waistcoat strikes the balance between being sophisticated but still 'quite sexy without letting it all hang out 101. It's also so structured you could generally go braless.'
Part of the appeal of the waistcoat is its ability to seamlessly transition between multiple environments, from meetings in the office to date night – that elusive 'day to night' quality in fashion jargon. 'It allows you the versatility of not having to keep a suit jacket on and still look smart,' said Becky Fatemi, executive partner at Sotheby's International Realty. A longtime waistcoat enthusiast, she has 'about 20' in her arsenal, ranging from a pinstripe style by Dolce & Gabbana to a gold hardware-embellished vintage Moschino one, with many of them hangovers from her days of wearing a three-piece suit.
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'A lot of clients aren't turning up in suits any more, so I think if you're wearing a whole suit it looks a bit intense, whereas a waistcoat provides a kind of bridge where you still look corporate and professional, and it gives you that air of power,' she said.
She will typically wear them over a little vest or a Wolford body 'so it's not showing too much skin...We're quite corporate at Sotheby's so I haven't really seen anyone wear one without something underneath.' At a recent fashion breakfast event hosted by cult dress brand The Irish Twin, the artist Indre Serpytyte-Roberts wore a sand-coloured waistcoat unbuttoned over a simple black cami top, which she paired with matching wide-leg trousers. It's 'effortless and refined,' she said. 'Few pieces strike the balance between structure and ease quite like it.'
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So, what should you look for when choosing? 'In general, I always prefer a fitted cut,' said French designer and tailoring aficionado Marie Marot, who wears hers with vintage Levi's or paired with tailored Bermuda shorts in high summer. 'It's light, a bit androgynous and I find it very chic in the heat.'
Personally, I like a longer-length waistcoat in a heavier linen or cotton, with a scooped hem, which I think lends a certain ladylike elegance to everyday jeans and makes you look a bit less Annie Hall-ish. London-based brand Aligne, a favourite among fashion editors, has several elongated styles, including its best-selling crewneck Leo waistcoat, which features an hourglass silhouette and higher armholes for a more fitted look (£119, aligne.co), while New York brand Attersee's Sculpted vest features a darted bodice and covered fabric buttons for an extra touch of polish (£374, shopattersee.com).
Though a more cropped style works well with high-waisted coordinating trousers, 'I prefer them to be neat and not too oversized and hit right above the hip bone,' said Ilona Hamer, co-founder and creative director at Matteau, whose tailored waistcoat, available in black, taupe or coffee brown, features angled welt pockets reminiscent of more traditional Savile Row-type menswear styles (£335, matteau-store.com). 'It's about getting the right length and proportion to the trousers so it's flattering and doesn't feel like a costume.'