In Search of Anyplace but the ‘Most Charming Village in France'
I was finishing a monthlong book tour in France, traveling by train to new cities each night—many I'd never seen. Those 28 days revealed how much of France exists beyond Paris's allure.
With four days before returning home, I decided to rent a car and take a spontaneous road trip through southern France. No plans, just the open road. I initially planned to go alone, but then I learned Stephen, an old friend, was also in France, finishing work in Marseille. I suggested we share the adventure. His wife, also a friend, wasn't with us, and there was no romantic motive—just two friends seeking a quiet escape.
'Two for the Road,' minus the love story.
We started in Nice, picked up a car, and a local friend recommended we visit Èze, famous for its beauty. But Èze was swarmed with tourists: winding streets lined with shops selling soap and towels. I turned to Stephen. 'Let's avoid any place called the Most Charming French Village.'
We headed north, aimless but eager for small moments—good, affordable food and unexpected sights. My goal was to feel like a character in a French film, though I wasn't sure which one.
Soon, I saw a handmade sign reading 'Fromage' outside a farmhouse. Inside, a young woman looked like she'd stepped out of a Marcel Pagnol film, offering us chèvre. I asked about nearby bread; she pointed to a dirt road where cows ambled. No English, just locals, fresh cheese, and quiet charm.
Later, we drove to Gorges du Verdon, a winding river between steep cliffs, bustling with birds. For about $10, we rented a paddleboard, swam, and ate cheese and bread.
'What about the Côte d'Azur?' Stephen proposed. Who was I to argue?
In Villefranche-sur-Mer, we searched for Jean Cocteau's Chapel, famed for its frescoes. It was closed, so we swam near a small quay instead.
A good road trip has no plan, and we embraced that. Around 6 p.m., we searched for Airbnb. Usually, I'd spend hours hunting, but I let go. We found a simple place and settled in.
The novelist Joyce Maynards four-day road trip in the south of France was guided by pure spontaneity, which is how she ended up in Le Love Room. (Victoria Tentler-Krylov/The New York Times)
'A Dozen Oysters'
Next morning, we wandered into a village market. For about 10 euros, I bought a dozen oysters and a glass of Muscadet. Alain, behind the stand, handed me the oysters with flair, saying 'vive la France.' They might've been the best I'd ever had. He even sang as he shucked the second dozen. Stephen glanced at his watch.
Sometimes we had plans, then abandoned them. I wanted to see the Calanques near Cassis, but instead, swam and relaxed on rocks, napping in the sun.
We made a quick stop in Marseille at Maison Empereur, a historic hardware store. I wanted vintage bulbs and cast iron for cooking, but I only bought a feather duster, a pink hot water bottle, and some French jokes.
Le Love Room
Later, in Fayence—a quiet, charming town—the name evoked images of still-life paintings, but the town was peaceful. Flowers spilled from stone houses; fields stretched beyond. No tourists—just locals and one Airbnb: Le Love Room. After booking, Stephen suggested dinner. The only open restaurant was Les Temps des Cerises, a cozy bistro crowded with locals. We ordered house wine, foie gras with Calvados, and coq au vin—perfectly prepared.
Walking back, we passed an elderly woman leaning out her window with her cat, smiling and greeting us. We returned her wave.
Our Airbnb was in an old stone building. Climbing the narrow, steep stairs, we entered Le Love Room, dimly lit with red bulbs. Inside, hooks held whips. The decor was eccentric but spotlessly clean. A machine offered condoms and accessories. The owner thought of everything.
Stephen and I settled for the night—he in the bed, I on a leather couch. I laid out my toothbrush; he pulled out his book. Just two friends, calling it a night.
The next morning, we returned the car early, heading for Charles de Gaulle. Passing the same woman in her window with her cat, I waved, but she didn't respond. 'She probably knows where we spent the night,' I said. We quickly looked away.
Stephen laughed. 'I'll tell my wife I was just sightseeing,' he said as we headed back out on the road—our brief, surprising escape from the 'Most Charming Village in France' confirmed: sometimes, the best moments happen without a plan. —NYT
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Observer
3 days ago
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In Search of Anyplace but the ‘Most Charming Village in France'
I was finishing a monthlong book tour in France, traveling by train to new cities each night—many I'd never seen. Those 28 days revealed how much of France exists beyond Paris's allure. With four days before returning home, I decided to rent a car and take a spontaneous road trip through southern France. No plans, just the open road. I initially planned to go alone, but then I learned Stephen, an old friend, was also in France, finishing work in Marseille. I suggested we share the adventure. His wife, also a friend, wasn't with us, and there was no romantic motive—just two friends seeking a quiet escape. 'Two for the Road,' minus the love story. We started in Nice, picked up a car, and a local friend recommended we visit Èze, famous for its beauty. But Èze was swarmed with tourists: winding streets lined with shops selling soap and towels. I turned to Stephen. 'Let's avoid any place called the Most Charming French Village.' We headed north, aimless but eager for small moments—good, affordable food and unexpected sights. My goal was to feel like a character in a French film, though I wasn't sure which one. Soon, I saw a handmade sign reading 'Fromage' outside a farmhouse. Inside, a young woman looked like she'd stepped out of a Marcel Pagnol film, offering us chèvre. I asked about nearby bread; she pointed to a dirt road where cows ambled. No English, just locals, fresh cheese, and quiet charm. Later, we drove to Gorges du Verdon, a winding river between steep cliffs, bustling with birds. For about $10, we rented a paddleboard, swam, and ate cheese and bread. 'What about the Côte d'Azur?' Stephen proposed. Who was I to argue? In Villefranche-sur-Mer, we searched for Jean Cocteau's Chapel, famed for its frescoes. It was closed, so we swam near a small quay instead. A good road trip has no plan, and we embraced that. Around 6 p.m., we searched for Airbnb. Usually, I'd spend hours hunting, but I let go. We found a simple place and settled in. The novelist Joyce Maynards four-day road trip in the south of France was guided by pure spontaneity, which is how she ended up in Le Love Room. (Victoria Tentler-Krylov/The New York Times) 'A Dozen Oysters' Next morning, we wandered into a village market. For about 10 euros, I bought a dozen oysters and a glass of Muscadet. Alain, behind the stand, handed me the oysters with flair, saying 'vive la France.' They might've been the best I'd ever had. He even sang as he shucked the second dozen. Stephen glanced at his watch. Sometimes we had plans, then abandoned them. I wanted to see the Calanques near Cassis, but instead, swam and relaxed on rocks, napping in the sun. We made a quick stop in Marseille at Maison Empereur, a historic hardware store. I wanted vintage bulbs and cast iron for cooking, but I only bought a feather duster, a pink hot water bottle, and some French jokes. Le Love Room Later, in Fayence—a quiet, charming town—the name evoked images of still-life paintings, but the town was peaceful. Flowers spilled from stone houses; fields stretched beyond. No tourists—just locals and one Airbnb: Le Love Room. After booking, Stephen suggested dinner. The only open restaurant was Les Temps des Cerises, a cozy bistro crowded with locals. We ordered house wine, foie gras with Calvados, and coq au vin—perfectly prepared. Walking back, we passed an elderly woman leaning out her window with her cat, smiling and greeting us. We returned her wave. Our Airbnb was in an old stone building. Climbing the narrow, steep stairs, we entered Le Love Room, dimly lit with red bulbs. Inside, hooks held whips. The decor was eccentric but spotlessly clean. A machine offered condoms and accessories. The owner thought of everything. Stephen and I settled for the night—he in the bed, I on a leather couch. I laid out my toothbrush; he pulled out his book. Just two friends, calling it a night. The next morning, we returned the car early, heading for Charles de Gaulle. Passing the same woman in her window with her cat, I waved, but she didn't respond. 'She probably knows where we spent the night,' I said. We quickly looked away. Stephen laughed. 'I'll tell my wife I was just sightseeing,' he said as we headed back out on the road—our brief, surprising escape from the 'Most Charming Village in France' confirmed: sometimes, the best moments happen without a plan. —NYT
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America's summer hot spots wonder: Will the vacationers still come?
Tim Cafferty, who owns a vacation rental business on North Carolina's Outer Banks, is upbeat about the summer season, but he is also doing anything he can to lure would-be vacationers. His company, Outer Banks Blue, ran a special promotion in March offering a 15 per cent discount on bookings. He is encouraging property owners to drop their prices. And for the first time, he is allowing visitors to reserve many of the 300 houses his company manages for just a few days instead of requiring them to stay a full week. All that has helped juice his sales, but there are still surprising vacancies. The week of the Fourth of July, a highly coveted rental period, is 'very soft for some reason,' Cafferty said. And more houses than usual are still available for late August, which could be because people are waiting until the last minute to book their getaways. In the end, Cafferty said, he would count himself lucky if Outer Banks Blue's occupancy levels this summer ended flat compared with last year, given the uncertain economic climate. Dishes are preapred at Lucky 12 Tavern in Nags Head, N C. — The New York Times 'People are ready to come,' he said. 'They are just looking for a good price.' Cafferty's cautious optimism in the face of those worrisome trends is indicative of how many business owners in popular vacation areas are approaching the crucial summer months. Although American consumers are showing some signs of strain amidst concerns about higher prices and the prospect of a recession, many businesses that cater to domestic tourists are preparing, somewhat guardedly, for what they expect to be a relatively normal summertime surge. Their bullishness is not unfounded. For all the concerns in recent years that consumer spending would buckle under soaring inflation and high borrowing costs, it has managed to remain solid, powering economic growth even when the economic outlook was hazy. The summer season will provide the latest stress test for that sunny spending pattern — and the lifeblood of many vacation towns is at stake. Seating at a restaurant at the Nags Head Fishing Pier in Nags Head, N C. — The New York Times 'Right now, it's all scary,' said Gary Jonas, who owns a bar and food truck lot, the Little Fleet, in Traverse City, Michigan, a summer destination in northern Michigan known for its cherries and vineyards. 'We're just crossing our fingers and hoping that it's similar to previous years.' Typically, American consumers put their money to work during the summer months on trips and leisure activities. Airlines, hotels and short-term rental companies count on bumps in bookings. Local economies in destination areas benefit from a swelling summertime population that buoys beachside cafes, souvenir shops, ice cream parlors and resorts. But consumers are bedeviled this year by a confluence of challenging circumstances that could curtail their summer spending. Their feelings about the economy have soured significantly since the beginning of the year amidst President Donald Trump's tariff rollout. Stock market volatility has made some consumers more apprehensive. So far, consumers are still spending. But for the most part, they no longer have the savings they had amassed during the pandemic that allowed them to spend more freely. Credit card debt that is 90 days or more past due has been rising across income levels and household debt has piled up. On calls with investors, consumer-facing companies are reporting that customers are trimming spending on discretionary items like meals out and snack foods; and warning that tariffs will force them to raise prices. Anglers at the fishing pier in Nags Head, N C. — The New York Times And if tariffs rise at the end of Trump's 90-day pause, that will put additional pressure on consumers who may suddenly find themselves facing higher costs for goods and services — just as the summer season is revving into high gear. 'There's a pullback in travel demand,' said Laura Rosner-Warburton, senior economist at MacroPolicy Perspectives, a forecasting firm. Prices for hotels and airfares have fallen, she noted, which suggests consumers are pulling back their spending on leisure. 'That's a sign of some weakening,' she said. There are some bright spots for summer businesses. Travel often holds up reasonably well when the economy softens, though it takes a hit if the circumstances become dire enough. Spending on travel dipped during and after the Great Recession in 2007-09, for instance. And for now, the labour market remains strong, without the kind of steep job losses that typically translate into less spending. Domestic destinations could also see a boost from American travellers, especially those with lower incomes, who may choose to vacation in the United States rather than go abroad. The share of consumers planning to go on a domestic vacation in the next six months bounced back in May, to about 42 per cent, according to The Conference Board. 'I would expect there to be more domestic travel this year than the previous few,' said David Tinsley, an economist at the Bank of America Institute, which found that lower- and middle-income households were more likely to drive to their destinations than fly. 'It's consistent with an idea of people being a little bit more prudent,' he said. It is that consumer frugality that has made Brian Gagnon, president of the Lake Area Chamber of Commerce, confident about the upcoming months. The Lake of the Ozarks, a human-made body of water in central Missouri, is a favoured driving destination for people in the Midwest, which he hopes will make it more attractive for travellers looking to save on airfare this summer. Gagnon, who also owns a swimwear shop in the area called Summer USA, says foot traffic on Bagnell Dam Strip, the main shopping and dining street, has been high. Tickets for an annual car show in May sold out within days. Sales at his store are slightly up at this point compared with last year. Racers at LeMans Go-Karts in Lake Ozark, Mo. — The New York Times 'We'll keep an eye on things and just keep our finger on the pulse with everything,' he said. 'But I think going into it, it looks pretty positive from everything we've seen so far.' The picture could be very different for places that depend heavily on overseas visitors, such as New York. 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On the Outer Banks, a chain of barrier islands off North Carolina, businesses are likewise adapting to the current economy — and holding their breath. Mark Ballog, who owns Lucky 12 Tavern in Nags Head, North Carolina, said he did not plan to raise menu prices this summer despite the hefty cost of fish and meat because he worried about 'scaring people away.' He is anticipating selling a lot of his signature 16-inch New York-style pizzas this year to families who want cheaper meals. But his outlook is hardly gloomy. 'I'm pretty hopeful,' he said. 'This area here — we attract a lot of people that don't have a money problem in the world.' — The New York Times BLURB Consumers are bedeviled this year by a confluence of challenging circumstances that could curtail their summer spending. Their feelings about the economy have soured significantly since the beginning of the year amidst President Donald Trump's tariff rollout
Observer
20-05-2025
- Observer
Spain orders Airbnb to take down 66,000 rental listings
PARIS — The Spanish government on Monday ordered Airbnb to remove nearly 66,000 listings from its platform, widening a crackdown on tourist rentals as it seeks to alleviate a housing crisis that has become among the worst in Europe. The government said the listings were in violation of rules because they either lacked licenses, had fake license numbers or failed to reveal whether the property was run by a corporation or an individual. Airbnb said in a statement that it would continue to appeal all decisions linked to the case. A spokesperson said the company would keep the listings up until the appeal made its way through the courts. Housing affordability has become a critical social and political issue in Spain, where mass demonstrations have been held across the country by people who say the proliferation of real estate investors and the conversion of lodging into tourist accommodations have pushed families from their homes. The scarcity has helped drive up prices much faster than wages, putting affordable housing out of reach for many. Spain's consumer affairs minister, Pablo Bustinduy, said the action was part of a broader push by national, regional, and local authorities 'to ensure that no economic interest takes precedence over the right to housing.' His agency had previously investigated Airbnb and notified the company several months ago that 65,935 listings did not meet legal requirements and would need to be taken down, but the company appealed in court. On Monday, Madrid's high court backed the order. The government will require Airbnb to remove a first batch of 5,800 ads on the site, and additional orders will be issued until all the illegal listings are removed, Bustinduy said. The company said that the root cause of the affordable housing crisis in Spain was a lack of housing supply and that stricter restrictions in cities including Barcelona, Spain; Edinburgh, Scotland; Amsterdam and New York 'failed to ease local housing challenges while hurting local families who rely on hosting and driving up the price of accommodations for everyday travelers.' 'The solution is to build more homes — anything else is a distraction,' the company said in the statement. Airbnb's listings in Madrid and Catalonia, whose capital is Barcelona, are among those affected by the ruling on Monday. Barcelona had announced that it would become the first European city to end licenses for vacation rentals, requiring owners to offer them as long-term lodging at capped rents by 2028 or put them up for sale. Mayor Jaume Collboni told The New York Times recently that tackling rising inequality that stemmed from the lack of affordable housing was the top priority. Spain's woes mirror the pain lashing other European cities: Residential real estate has increasingly been turned into financial assets by investors. A surge in global tourism and workers crossing borders has prompted landlords to favor short-term rentals over protected long-term tenants. Cities need more homes, but high costs and complex regulations have stifled construction. A once-vaunted stock of social housing across Europe to shelter struggling families has shrunk after governments sold units to raise cash. In Spain, the government has sought to reverse the problem with an ambitious program to build more affordable lodging and social housing. Prime Minister Pedro Sanchez has sought to curb foreign buyers, including by proposing a 100% tax aimed at foreign real estate investors. And in December, Spain's Supreme Court ruled that homeowners' associations could prohibit tourist rentals in their buildings if they got a three-fifths majority to agree. This article originally appeared in
