Mandarin Oriental Qianmen, Beijing hotel review

Independent

22-03-2025

Location
In a maze of hutongs in central Beijing, the Mandarin Oriental has opened its second hotel in the capital city. Some of the residential courtyards that make up these small alleys have been transformed into luxury rooms, but they are peppered in and around courtyards where locals still live. Buggies carry hotel guests from their rooms to the restaurant for breakfast, stopping to allow locals on their mopeds or swerving around a table of elderly mahjong players.
The hotel is ideally located to explore all of historic Beijing's attractions while experiencing what life is like in the hutongs among the locals. Cool independent bars, noodle restaurants and vintage boutique stores line the traditional streets just outside the residential area which are a delight to explore and duck into for a cocktail or coffee break.
The vibe
The small winding alleys are cosy and feel secluded and peaceful compared to the hubbub of Beijing just a few streets over. The lobby courtyard is breathtaking, with towering old trees jutting from the centre. There isn't a grand porte-cochère at the entrance, instead the main building is quite unassuming. The reception area once you're inside is tastefully and elegantly decorated, allowing the wooden beams of the ceiling and walls to become a central feature of the decor.
The buildings in Beijing's hutongs are protected and cannot be built upwards, so every part of the hotel is on the first floor like in the old times. Sculptures and artworks throughout allow moments to pause, with an overall feeling of serenity permeating the main building. Concepts of feng shui were employed when the hotel was first built as small square houses, that reveals a calming connection to nature with a focus on plant life in the middle of the courtyards.
The service
Whether chatting cheerfully when carting guests through the hutongs in the buggies, ensuring the cleaning is up to standard, or taking breakfast orders, the staff are all clearly trained to a very high standard to ensure a smooth, enjoyable and peaceful experience. Almost all the staff encountered have good English. Although it's fun to explore the hutongs by yourself, after a boozy dinner, a nice buggy ride back to your room is just the ticket.
Bed and bath
To live among the Beijing locals in a private courtyard villa is truly a unique experience. The courtyard rooms (just 43 in total) cover three sides of the square, meaning you can see across from the kitchen/living room to the bedroom with pretty foliage in the middle. The floor-to-ceiling windows allow plenty of light, while the tall wooden ceilings and grey brick reflect the traditional Chinese style.
Modern comforts include a rainfall shower, toilet with heated seats and bidets, Dyson hairdryers, and Frederic Malle products in the bathrooms. The interiors are chic and understated. Cream linen wallpaper creates a neutral backdrop to nature-focused artworks. Furniture is trimmed in gold and features traditional Chinese floral motifs with fabrics throughout in tones of blue, grey, creams and burnt umber. There's a complimentary minibar including wine, beer and soft drinks. Sitting out in the courtyard is a lovely way to while away an hour or two, and some larger rooms even have a private teahouse.
Food and drink
Yan Garden is the Michelin-starred restaurant serving Cantonese and Chaozhou cuisine. Chef Fei creates diverse set menus bursting with Chinese flavours. Think wok-fried wagyu beef with Sichuan peppers, rich chicken broth with Shanghai noodles and the chef's signature deep-fried pigeon eaten with your hands. Up to seven courses are meticulously served with style and substance. Tea is a major feature of the restaurant too, with a dedicated tea station. The interiors evoke old China with deep burgundy walls, fresh orchids on the tables and quiet traditional music playing – it's utterly blissful.
Breakfast is served daily in Vicini, the Italian restaurant hidden down one of the alleys that doubles as a tasty pasta spot for lunch and dinner. With a terrace that overlooks the city, this restaurant is headed by an Italian chef, who creates dishes such as tagliolini with Tibetan truffle and aged parmesan, wonderfully tender lamb saddle, and Italian desserts like sgroppino: lemon sorbet topped with prosecco and limoncello.
The Tiao bar is where the cool Beijingers come to sip on cocktails inspired by Chinese legends in the atmospheric low-lit room. At least three people around us ordered a cocktail made famous by social media, created by a barman at your table with a burst of edible glitter dramatically lit up by a lamp.
Facilities
From sound bath therapy, to massages to tea ceremonies and a gym, wellness of body and mind is a focus at this hotel. There is no pool due to building restrictions. There are a number of tranquil rooms accessed via a quiet courtyard where massages and treatments can take place in peace. Tea ceremony and tea meditation classes can be booked in at the spa.
Accessibility
The hotel is not accessible, as the traditional doorways, including the lobby, have a steep plank to step over and some rooms have steps to enter.
Pet policy
Pets allowed by request, but charges apply.
Check in/check out
Check in from 3pm; check out by 12pm.
Family friendly?
Yes, there are plenty of family rooms with extra beds for free for children under 12, and cots for babies up to two years old.
At a glance
Best thing: Hearing the buzz of the locals as you explore the hutongs.
Perfect for: Experiencing a slice of old Beijing in luxury.