A visionary and Hublot 4.0

The Star

3 days ago

Murakami wearing the MP-15 Tourbillon Sapphire. — Photo: Hublot
After Julien Tornare took the helm at Hublot in September 2024, he coined a phrase that encapsulates his vision for the Swiss watch brand: Hublot 4.0.
More than just a playful nod to being Hublot's fourth chief executive and a ­tribute to his predecessors, it also signals the next chapter in the brand's evolution – one the 53-year-old Swiss is eager to shape.Hublot's story began in 1980 with Carlo Crocco, an Italian visionary who introduced a watch that fused gold cases with natural rubber straps.
This audacious combination redefined luxury timepieces and quickly found favour among watch fans, including celebrities.
Then came Jean-Claude Biver, the industry legend credited with reviving Blancpain and Omega.
In 2004, he took over a stagnant Hublot and injected it with fresh energy.
One of his first moves was launching the Big Bang series in 2005, a game changer that blended high-tech materials with avant-garde design.
Under Biver's leadership, Hublot joined the LVMH luxury empire in 2008.
Fellow Swiss Ricardo Guadalupe, who had worked closely with Biver, took over in 2012.
His tenure was marked by global ­expansion and deeper investments in innovation, cementing Hublot's position as a powerhouse in the luxury watch industry.
Fast forward to 2024. Eight months after leaving Zenith to become head honcho of Tag Heuer, Tornare received an unexpected call from Frederic Arnault, LVMH's then newly appointed head of watches.
The offer? The top job at Hublot.
Asked if he was surprised by the offer, he says in crisp Swiss-accented English: 'Yes and no. I wasn't expecting the change to happen so quickly, but I always knew I was a good fit for Hublot.'
Although he requested two days to mull over the offer, he had made up his mind on the spot.
'It took mere seconds to decide,' says Tornare.
'When you feel connected, you just know.'
Comfortably ensconced in a sofa at the Hublot boutique in Marina Bay Sands, Singapore, the economics graduate from the University of Geneva is known in the watch industry as a 'transformer'.
It is a fitting title.
At Zenith, he took annual sales from 80 million Swiss francs (RM426.8mil) when he started in 2017 to more than 120 million Swiss francs (RM640.2mil) when he left in 2023.
His goal at Hublot? To rediscover the magic that made it an icon.
'I want to bring back that sense of excitement. Hublot has always been about breaking rules, about fusing tradition with the unexpected.
'That's what I want to push even further,' he says, adding that he has already commissioned a new advertising campaign and will be announcing fresh collaborations in the next couple of months.
Enthusiastically, he talks about how Hublot's flagship watch, the Big Bang, is celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2025, a milestone he is leveraging to redefine the brand.
He likens the watch to German luxury carmaker Porsche's legendary 911 model: 'The core design stays, but it must evolve constantly.'
The Swiss luxury watchmaker, he says, is preparing to introduce a Big Bang that blends the revered original design with two decades of innovation.
'Think of it like mixing classic DNA with modern boldness,' he explains, his hands moving expressively.
'It's respecting the past, yet preparing for the next 20 years.'
His time so far at Hublot, he says, has gone smoothly.
He then launches into an animated spiel about how he has galvanised his teams, pushing for innovation from every corner – marketing, design, research and production.
'I'm asking them to bring new initiatives, new ideas. Because this is what Hublot is about.
'Innovation is our gasoline,' he emphasises passionately. 'It's in our blood.'
Tornare will have you know, however, that he is not just about forward momentum.
He is equally invested in elevating perceptions of Hublot's craftsmanship, which he feels has not been given enough credit.
'We're not just flashy marketing,' he insists. 'Hublot has serious watchmaking expertise.'
This is an area he understands intimately, given his background with Vacheron Constantin and Zenith, companies celebrated for their precise movements and mechanical ingenuity.
'Elevating technical excellence – that's central to my vision,' he says, adding that he wants consumers to appreciate the intricate artistry beneath the brand's bold exterior.
The ebullient man is also doubling down on what he calls Hublot's emotional drivers: sports, art and music.
Hublot, famous for its collaborations with global sporting legends such as French footballer Kylian Mbappe and artists like Japan's Takashi Murakami, will soon rekindle its connection to music – another of Tornare's personal passions.
Grinning, he describes the Hublot customer as bold, entrepreneurial and expressive.
'When you wear a Hublot, you're making a statement,' he says emphatically. 'It's for people who like fun, action, who aren't afraid to stand out.'
Leaning forward conspiratorially, he adds that Hublot fans have enthusiastically invited him to nightclub outings on his visit.
'That's so Hublot. It's fun, dynamic, vibrant. It suits me perfectly.'
Trade wars, geopolitics and conflicts are creating a lot of uncertainty in the world, but he is not too worried about the sluggish economy. Instead, he sees opportunity.
'Markets always have ups and downs,' he says with a shrug.
'My job is to prepare Hublot for the rebound.'
His strategy involves careful market management, avoiding oversupply, and investing strongly in innovation and authenticity.
'Brands fail when they chase trends,' he cautions. 'Authenticity matters. We must remain true to Hublot's spirit.'
Asked where he sees the brand in five years, he says excitedly: 'Hublot will be celebrating its 50th anniversary then. We want to do something unforgettable – mark a major milestone in watchmaking history, do something people will always remember.'
As the conversation draws to a close, Tornare reflects briefly on his reputation as a 'transformer'.
He grins modestly, accepting the description.
'It's true,' he admits. 'But transformation isn't about changing who we are.
'It's about becoming even more authentically ourselves.' — The Straits Times