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Italian Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri Out At Dior

Italian Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri Out At Dior

Dior announced Thursday that Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri was stepping down as artistic director of the French fashion house's women's collection after almost a decade on the job.
Dior has boomed since Chiuri took over in 2016, becoming the second-biggest brand in the stable of luxury labels owned by French powerhouse LVMH.
The 61-year-old designer's modernisation and feminist activism helped attract new customers.
Chiuri, who was the first woman to be named Dior's creative director after a career at Italian brands Valentino and Fendi, had long been rumoured to be on her way out.
"The House of Dior wishes today to express its deepest gratitude to Maria Grazia Chiuri after a wonderful collaboration as Artistic Director of the Women's collections since 2016," Dior said in a statement.
"After nine years, I am leaving the House of Dior, delighted by the extraordinary opportunity I have been given," Chiuri said in the statement.
Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson, who was named creative director of Dior Men last month, has been tipped as a possible successor, which would make him the first person to head both the men's and women's collections.
If that came to be, it would give "greater consistency" between the men's and women's offerings and would be "impactful for the public and for consumers", said Serge Carreira, an academic specialising in the luxury industry.
Already anticipation is building around Anderson's first Dior menswear show in June.
Chiuri on Tuesday presented Dior Women's 2026 Cruise collection in Rome, the city of her birth, in an 18th century villa.
The show concluded with a standing ovation for the designer.
Guests including Silvia Venturini Fendi, granddaughter of Fendi's founders and the menswear artistic director of the brand, and Valentino founder Valentino Garavani.
After training at Italy's Istituto Europeo di Design, Chiuri worked for Fendi in the 1990s before joining Valentino in 1999, where she and artistic partner Pier Paolo Piccioli became creative co-directors.
In 2016, she was tapped to succeed Raf Simons at Dior, and "she really wrote a whole chapter in Dior's history", said Carreira, who teaches at Paris's Sciences Po university.
Even if some critics argued that she lacked creativity, he disagreed, saying: "She managed to boost and create a very consistent identity at Dior Women... that she constantly refreshed and fed with new ideas."
Speculation already swirled around Chiuri's future at her last Paris Fashion Week in March.
Her face was inscrutable at the end of a 25-minute Fall/Winter 2025 show in the Tuileries Gardens, as she briefly acknowledged applause from a crowd that was relatively low on A-list celebrities.
Some observers had suggested the classic French house was growing stale.
Its growth is of crucial financial and dynastic importance to LVMH owner Bernard Arnault, who placed his daughter Delphine in charge of Dior in February 2023.
In the Dior statement, Delphine Arnault praised Chiuri's "immense work with an inspiring feminist viewpoint and exceptional creativity".
Speaking to Grazia magazine in February, Chiuri said she had seen the fashion business change greatly over her 40-year career.
"Fashion used to be about family companies and there were small audiences -- clients and buyers," she said. "Now fashion is like a channel. It's something more popular, it's like pop. It's a form of media."
LVMH's global first-quarter results were weaker than expected, with sales over the period dropping two percent against the backdrop of trade uncertainty unleashed by US President Donald Trump's tariffs.
French group Hermes overtook LVMH as the world's most valuable luxury company in April after shares in the Louis Vuitton maker tumbled following weaker-than-expected quarterly sales.
LVMH shares have been sliding since the end of February. Maria Grazia Chiuri's last show for Dior -- the 26 cruise collection, shown in Rome -- received a standing ovation AFP Dior is a crucial brand in the LVMH luxury group -- so much so that LVMH boss Bernard Arnault has put his daughter Delphine in charge of it AFP

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Italian Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri Out At Dior
Italian Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri Out At Dior

Int'l Business Times

time4 days ago

  • Int'l Business Times

Italian Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri Out At Dior

Dior announced Thursday that Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri was stepping down as artistic director of the French fashion house's women's collection after almost a decade on the job. Dior has boomed since Chiuri took over in 2016, becoming the second-biggest brand in the stable of luxury labels owned by French powerhouse LVMH. The 61-year-old designer's modernisation and feminist activism helped attract new customers. Chiuri, who was the first woman to be named Dior's creative director after a career at Italian brands Valentino and Fendi, had long been rumoured to be on her way out. "The House of Dior wishes today to express its deepest gratitude to Maria Grazia Chiuri after a wonderful collaboration as Artistic Director of the Women's collections since 2016," Dior said in a statement. "After nine years, I am leaving the House of Dior, delighted by the extraordinary opportunity I have been given," Chiuri said in the statement. Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson, who was named creative director of Dior Men last month, has been tipped as a possible successor, which would make him the first person to head both the men's and women's collections. If that came to be, it would give "greater consistency" between the men's and women's offerings and would be "impactful for the public and for consumers", said Serge Carreira, an academic specialising in the luxury industry. Already anticipation is building around Anderson's first Dior menswear show in June. Chiuri on Tuesday presented Dior Women's 2026 Cruise collection in Rome, the city of her birth, in an 18th century villa. The show concluded with a standing ovation for the designer. Guests including Silvia Venturini Fendi, granddaughter of Fendi's founders and the menswear artistic director of the brand, and Valentino founder Valentino Garavani. After training at Italy's Istituto Europeo di Design, Chiuri worked for Fendi in the 1990s before joining Valentino in 1999, where she and artistic partner Pier Paolo Piccioli became creative co-directors. In 2016, she was tapped to succeed Raf Simons at Dior, and "she really wrote a whole chapter in Dior's history", said Carreira, who teaches at Paris's Sciences Po university. Even if some critics argued that she lacked creativity, he disagreed, saying: "She managed to boost and create a very consistent identity at Dior Women... that she constantly refreshed and fed with new ideas." Speculation already swirled around Chiuri's future at her last Paris Fashion Week in March. Her face was inscrutable at the end of a 25-minute Fall/Winter 2025 show in the Tuileries Gardens, as she briefly acknowledged applause from a crowd that was relatively low on A-list celebrities. Some observers had suggested the classic French house was growing stale. Its growth is of crucial financial and dynastic importance to LVMH owner Bernard Arnault, who placed his daughter Delphine in charge of Dior in February 2023. In the Dior statement, Delphine Arnault praised Chiuri's "immense work with an inspiring feminist viewpoint and exceptional creativity". Speaking to Grazia magazine in February, Chiuri said she had seen the fashion business change greatly over her 40-year career. "Fashion used to be about family companies and there were small audiences -- clients and buyers," she said. "Now fashion is like a channel. It's something more popular, it's like pop. It's a form of media." LVMH's global first-quarter results were weaker than expected, with sales over the period dropping two percent against the backdrop of trade uncertainty unleashed by US President Donald Trump's tariffs. French group Hermes overtook LVMH as the world's most valuable luxury company in April after shares in the Louis Vuitton maker tumbled following weaker-than-expected quarterly sales. LVMH shares have been sliding since the end of February. Maria Grazia Chiuri's last show for Dior -- the 26 cruise collection, shown in Rome -- received a standing ovation AFP Dior is a crucial brand in the LVMH luxury group -- so much so that LVMH boss Bernard Arnault has put his daughter Delphine in charge of it AFP

'One In A Billion': French Stuntwoman Putting Fizz Into Hollywood
'One In A Billion': French Stuntwoman Putting Fizz Into Hollywood

Int'l Business Times

time6 days ago

  • Int'l Business Times

'One In A Billion': French Stuntwoman Putting Fizz Into Hollywood

When Sarah Lezito began messing around with motorbikes at 13 she never dreamed that one day she would become the stunt double of some of Hollywood's biggest stars. The French winemaker's daughter has stood in for Scarlett Johansson -- twice -- on "Avengers 2" and "Black Widow" and appeared in a dozen films including "The Batman". The 32-year-old is one of a very rare breed of motorcycle stuntwomen, with a massive social media following that helped bring her from the vineyards of France's Champagne region to Hollywood. AFP caught up with her on her own personal training track amid the otherwise tranquil vineyards near Epernay, the Champagne capital in northeast France. Barely astride her red chrome Kawasaki, she was off down the track performing stunts with disconcerting dexterity, her long brown hair trailing out of her helmet in the wind. "This is kind of my temple," she said after performing a series of gravity-defying tricks including standing with both feet on top of her 200-kilo (440-pound) machine and then flipping herself onto the handlebars. "People think I'm working, but it mostly allows me to release all the pressure," said Lezito, whose lucky charm -- a plastic beaded bracelet -- is wrapped around the throttle of her bike. The woman now popularly known as the "world stunt champion" (although there is no recognised world championship) began her acrobatics career young on the family holding near Epernay. "I fell into stunts by watching videos," she told AFP. "No one in my family was in the motor sports world. My father only had an agricultural quad, not at all made for sports, but I started trying to do wheelies with it in a field." Then she began posting her stunt videos on YouTube. But she seemed destined to follow her family into wine and viticulture until she posted a video of a medley of tricks one day in March 2013 called "One out of Billion Girls". "It was thanks to this video that they noticed me," she said. The "they" being the team from the Hollywood blockbuster "Avengers 2". A few months later, she abandoned her winemaking studies to fly to South Korea to perform Johansson's stunts in the movie. Because she "adapted quickly" to stunt work, Lezito decided to go professional, appearing in several major movies, including "Inferno", "Millennium" and "The Batman" with Zoe Kravitz. "I met all the actresses I've doubled for," she said. She has had her moments on some of the movies, although she insists she has never felt fear on those she does "at home" for social media. "I had to ride through flames for 'Bad Girl', a film which was never released. On paper, it was very simple, but I didn't have a helmet," she recalled. And in the summer of 2023 while filming David Fincher's "The Killer" in Paris, starring Michael Fassbender, Lezito had a severe fall. "I flew off the motorcycle, I wasn't going very fast but fast enough to land on my head and the helmet cracked." She ended up in the emergency room with a head injury. It "made her think", she told AFP, and she "decided to take a break" and put her Hollywood career on hold. Lezito now devotes herself to her social media channels, posting videos of her stunts to her more than 30 million followers -- including 9.5 million on Instagram, some two million more than MotoGP star Marc Marquez. Her garage doubles as a studio, with her YouTube trophies and gifts from her fans displayed on the walls. But it is also where she gets her hands dirty repairing her fleet of roughly 10 motorcycles. "As long as I enjoy sitting on the motorcycle, I'll keep doing this," she said. French stuntman Sarah Lezito does her stuff AFP The stuntwoman has doubled twice for US star Scarlett Johansson AFP Daredevil: Lezito has put her Hollywood career on pause after an accident AFP

Hitler's food tasters inspire new film – DW – 05/27/2025
Hitler's food tasters inspire new film – DW – 05/27/2025

DW

time6 days ago

  • DW

Hitler's food tasters inspire new film – DW – 05/27/2025

Italian filmmaker Silvio Soldini's "The Tasters" is a fictional version of the story of a woman who worked as Hitler's food taster. But how much of it is true? The first scene of the film "The Tasters" is set in November 1943, in the East Prussian village of Gross-Partsch (present-day Parcz, Poland). A young woman called Rosa Sauer (Elisa Schlott) is fleeing her bombed-out apartment in Berlin by moving in with her in-laws who live there. Her husband, a German soldier, is fighting in Ukraine. Just a couple of kilometers away from the village, hiding in a thick forest surrounded by barbed wire, is the "Wolf's Lair" — Adolf Hitler's Eastern Front military headquarters. Shortly after her arrival, Rosa lands among a group of women who are forcibly recruited by the SS. The women are driven every day to Hitler's secret complex to serve as his food tasters. Without ever seeing him, the women know that the Nazi "Führer" has many enemies and that his meals — and thereby theirs — could be poisoned. Even though so many Europeans at the time are desperate for food amid the war, the elaborate meals are a source of terror for the women. A scene from 'The Tasters': Even in times of food scarcity, the women can't enjoy the meals they are required to eat Image: Luca Zontini/Busch Media Group Amid the tension, Rosa develops a secret relationship with SS lieutenant Ziegler (Max Riemelt) and becomes friends with a shy woman in the group, Elfriede (Alma Hasun), who has good reasons to be discrete. The German-language film, directed by Italian filmmaker Silvio Soldini ("Breads and Tulips," 2000), is based on Rosella Postorino's bestselling novel, "Le assaggiatrici" (2018), which was translated into more than 30 languages, including in English as "At the Wolf's Table." Postorino's 2018 novel won the 56th Campiello Prize The filmmaker, who worked with German actors without speaking the language himself, had previously avoided directing period pieces, but one of the reasons that motivated him to adapt the novel was that it focuses on women, which is unusual for a World War II story. Soldini told DW that he also liked the fact that the story isn't judgemental about the two main characters, Rosa Sauer and Albert Ziegler, who are "simply human, despite being caught in the gears of a horrific system." Based on Margot Wölk's story Postorino's novel was inspired by the testimony of a woman called Margot Wölk. She had never talked about her World War II experiences, but at the age of 95 in December 2012, she started giving interviews to the press. She recalled how, for about two and half years starting in 1942, she was among the 15 young women who were required to taste food prepared for the Wolf's Lair. Margot Wölk only revealed her story to the world at the age of 95, and died shortly afterwards, in 2014 Image: Markus Schreiber/AP Photo/picture alliance The film's portrayal reflects the tasters' recruitment and the daily schedule, as described by Wölk. Wölk also said she survived thanks to a lieutenant who put her on a train to Berlin in 1944; he knew that the Soviet army was just a few kilometres away from reaching the Wolf's Lair. After the war, she met the lieutenant again, and he told her that all the other food tasters in her group had been shot by Soviet soldiers. Wölk's escape inspired Postorino to include the love affair in her novel; the author speculated that Wölk was saved because she had developed a privileged relationship with one of the SS guards. If anything did ever happen between the taster and the lieutenant, Wölk didn't mention it in her interviews. Photos of Margot Wölk as a young woman Image: Markus Schreiber/AP Photo/picture alliance In an interview with Der Spiegel in 2013, she did however mention being raped by one of the SS officers while she was working as a taster. She was also raped repeatedly by Soviet soldiers after she returned to Berlin. More than a year after the end of the war, she was reunited with her husband, who was also traumatized by his wartime experiences. Postorino tried to reach Wölk to interview her for the novel, but the elderly woman died in 2014 before they could talk. Lacking historical evidence After a documentary featuring Margot Wölk came out in 2014, German historian Sven-Felix Kellerhoff pointed out that the story was unlikely to be true. In his piece for the daily Welt, he points out that in the final years of his life, Hitler had digestive problems, and that instead of eating the meals prepared for his inner circle, he hired a dietician who prepared special meals for him in a separate kitchen close to his bunker, within "Sperrkreis 1" (Security Zone 1). It therefore wouldn't have made much sense to have had the food transported outside of this highly restricted area to have it tasted by a group of women before Hitler's meals. In this new book, Felix Bohr looks into how the Wolf's Lair was organized According to Felix Bohr in his new book "Before the Downfall: Hitler's Years in the 'Wolf's Lair'," the first dietician to cook separately for Hitler, Helene von Exner, was hired in July 1943. Before that, a cook called Otto Günther prepared meals in large pots for the Nazi leaders based at the Wolf's Lair. Beyond Hitler's inner circle, up to 2,000 people were working in the Wolf's Lair. Were the women perhaps required to taste other food, being told it was Hitler's meals? In his book detailing the organization of daily life at the Wolf's Lair, Bohr only mentions Wölk's testimony in a footnote, noting that no other historical sources back her claims. As he confirmed to DW, throughout his intensive research into the Wolf's Lair structures, he "found no sources that confirm Margot Wölk's story," but, he adds, "neither did I find any documents that prove the opposite." Soldini is unfazed by any potential historical inaccuracies: After all, he points out, "the film is based on the novel, it's not from the true story." The story that is told remains relevant, he adds, because the movie portrays parallels with current developments in the world. Like the tasters, we can all feel today's political violence — even if we have the privilege of eating good meals. For filmmaker Silvio Soldini, the story reflects today's political violence Image: Elizabeth Grenier/DW Surviving an assassination attempt as a sign of providence One thing that historians have definitely well documented are the various attempts to kill Hitler. At least 42 plots have been uncovered. The best-known one is Operation Valkyrie, in which Wehrmacht officers, led by Claus von Stauffenberg, tried to kill Hitler at the Wolf's Lair by detonating an explosive hidden in a briefcase. This failed assassination attempt on July 20, 1944 is also referred to in the film through Hitler's actual radio broadcast, in which he describes the attack that killed four people and injured 20 more. "I myself am completely unhurt except for very small skin abrasions, bruises or burns," stated the leader of Nazi Germany at the time. Like Trump following his assassination attempt in July 2024, Hitler saw the fact that he survived the attack practically unharmed as a sign of destiny: "I take it as a confirmation of the mission of providence to continue to pursue my life purpose, as I have done so far." Edited by: Brenda Haas

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