Aesthetics guru Dr Barbara Sturm reveals the ultimate anti-ageing routine
While lots of things get better with age — wine, jeans, relationships, when it comes to the world of beauty, many of us associate ageing with less lovely things such as fine lines, wrinkles and an overall loss of plumpness. Because of this, the world of luxury anti-ageing skincare, from creams, serums, treatments and peels, is positively booming. But with more products promising to reverse time than ever, it's hard to decipher between fact and fiction. To help, keep scrolling for a guide to the ultimate anti-ageing skincare routine.
It's a simple fact our skin changes as we get older. Cellular function begins to decline and we produce less collagen and elastin. A loss of volume can have an effect on the skin's luminosity and brightness and a decrease in hyaluronic acid in the skin can result in dryness and fine lines. The leading German dermatologist Dr Barbara Sturm says: 'At the same time, the telomeres (the protective end caps of our DNA) naturally shorten, which further impacts the skin's ability to regenerate and repair.' Unsurprisingly the shifts in hormones as we age also has an effect and increases the skin's sensitivity, 'women can lose about 30% of their skin collagen within the first five years after menopause,' Sturm says.
Essentially vitamin A in different forms, retinoids are one of the most frequently used anti-ageing compounds to help reduce fine lines and wrinkles by increasing the production of collagen in the skin. The most common, over the counter derivative is retinol (a more gentle form compared to prescription choices such as tretinoin and adapalene), that can be gradually incorporated into a skincare routine to potentially fade age spots, roughness and hyperpigmentation.
Also known as Vitamin B3, using Niacinamides can help minimise the appearance of pores, potentially improve the skin's texture and tone, while reducing inflammation.
Chemical exfoliants such as AHA (Alpha Hydroxy acids) and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy acids) work by dissolving the bonds that hold dead skin cells together to promote cell turnover and can give the appearance of a more youthful, brighter complexion.
Used over time, hyaluronic acid can help maintain the skin's elasticity and plumpness while being soothing and nourishing on even the most sensitive of skin.
Skincare with added Vitamin C gets to work neutralising free radicals in the body which are known to cause oxidative stress — for your skin that means a defence against dull and tired-looking skin. It's best used in the morning as it can also provide added protection against daily aggressors such as pollution and UV rays while potentially evening skin tone and having a brightening effect.
While ceramides are naturally found in the skin, as we age the quality of these fats decreases, therefore, they need to be replenished by ceramide-rich anti-ageing skincare products. Known as the mortar that holds skin cells together, ceramides form a protective layer and help to prevent moisture loss which in turn strengthens the skin barrier and can give the effects of more supple skin.
Despite the swanky science names, acids and enzymes, an effective anti-ageing regime doesn't need to be complicated. Like any skincare routine, it should start with a cleanser and an exfoliator should be added twice weekly to help invigorate the skin and remove dead skin cells. Arguably a potent anti-ageing serum is the most important step. The best? 'One packed ingredients like purslane, skullcap and glutathione offers an even deeper level of nourishment and is enriched with skin-identical ceramides and peptides to strengthen the skin barrier,' Sturm says.
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'My hyaluronic serum is fundamental. It is the 'white t-shirt' of any skincare routine,' Sturm says. Inside there's a combination of low, medium and high weight hyaluronic acid molecules to provide instant hydration at the surface, as well as deeper nourishment to support the skin barrier and target fine lines and wrinkles caused by dehydration. £85 for 10ml, Dr Barbara Sturm
While it's important to incorporate a facial exfoliant into your anti-ageing skincare routine a couple of times a week, you want to make sure it's gentle and never stripping. 111SKIN's clever cleanser transforms from a fine powder to a light foam and features the brand's signature NAC Y²™ complex to help sweep away dead skin cells and leave a more radiant, even complexion. £60 for 40g, 111SKIN
Focussing on recharging and reactivating the skin, this two step mask from legendary longevity science label La Prairie comprises a high potency concentrate of hyaluronic acid and collagen (handily encapsulated in a monodose vial to preserve it perfectly) to plump and revive the skin, as well as a nourishing cream mask full of powerful peptides. £1,275, La Prairie at Harrods
It's refreshing to see an anti-ageing cream specially created for men hit the crowded, female-focussed skincare sphere. This lightweight moisturiser from Italian brand Seed to Skin can be used to calm and comfort irritated skin post-shave. It is enriched with multi-vitamins and anti-inflammatory, botanical ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and squalane to nourish the skin's barrier. £183 for 50ml, Seed to Skin at Space NK
A frequent mature skin woe is the loss of firmness and elasticity in the skin that can leave you feeling your face is lacking the natural contours it once possessed. Thankfully Sisley-Paris' anti-ageing line, which first launched in 1999, contains sweet Majoram extract, a new active ingredient and antioxidant which acts like an alarm clock for the skin in boosting cells into action by reducing inflammation. £435 for 30ml, Sisley-Paris at Space NK
La Mer's silky serum offers a boost of hydration as the brand's signature Miracle Broth, the luxury skincare brand's unique elixir of sea kelp, vitamins and minerals, gets to work soothing the skin and an additional restructuring ferment plumps. The brand recommends applying with flat fingers in upward sweeping motions to enhance definition. £650 for 75ml, La Mer at Space NK
A gentle retinol, perfect for beginners, Eve Lom's hydrating serum has a combination of wrinkle-fighting Liposome Encapsulates Retinol and a microbiome re-balancing prebiotic to protect the skin from the inside. They've managed to also incorporate AHAs to help exfoliate dead skin cells in this sleek, gold bottle, too. £145 for 30ml, Eve Lom
It's rare you find a single-ingredient serum, but this fast-absorbing gel from Westman Atelier contains only one hundred per cent THD Ascorbate —- a vitamin C derivative crafted in Japan that is oil-soluble rather than water-soluble, meaning it is more stable and can penetrate deeper into the skin. It's loved for its antioxidant properties that work to help diminish hyperpigmentation and provide a hit of hydration. £300 for 20ml, Westman Atelier at Harrods
Nothing says luxury like the addition of caviar into your skincare, but if you're worried about a fishy face, fret not, you're in safe hands with La Prairie's Skin Caviar range. The Swiss skincare line uses caviar infinite and caviar micro-nutrients in the form of tiny yellow caviar beads and a light serum that mixes together as you pump to give the effects of brighter, smoother under eyes. £450 for 20ml, La Prairie at Space NK
Founded in 1997, SkinCeuticals is the skincare brand that forgoes fussy and fancy labels for straight-talking serums that simply do the job. Its latest eye serum has been designed to tackle dark circles specifically while helping smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles caused by collagen decline. The silky formula glides on and has an instantly tightening effect thanks to the addition of caffeine, glycyrrhetinic acid which helps counter dull tone and Matrixyl 3000 which supports the skin's natural firmness and elasticity. £105 for 15ml, SkinCeuticals at Look Fantastic
Sue Nabi, former president of Lancome and L'Oreal Paris, founded luxury skincare line Orveda with Nicolas Vu to create vegan, bio-fermented products that work with your skin, not against it. In terms of anti-ageing, all its highly-concentrated treatments can be used, as they target the effects of past damage, including overprocessing that can occur from years of using too many different skincare products. Inside Orveda's most potent serum, the Omnipotent Concentrate, there's 16 actives, concentrated at 24%, including soothing bio-tech schisandra sphenantera, biomimetic tripeptide to help firm skin texture and bio-activated gallic acid derivative to aid a natural glow. £405 for 30ml, Orveda at Harrods
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