Hotel Review: Aurora Anguilla Resort & Golf Club
Except, that is, in Anguilla.
Because in fabulous Anguilla—the flat shrub of a Caribbean island that epitomizes barefoot chic and is the poster-child for low-volume, high-cost tourism; the island that boasts Michelin-starred chefs but also one of the most rootsy reggae festivals in the region (my take on Moonsplash here)—even a sizable resort can still feel like a divine boutique property.
Case in point: Aurora Anguilla Resort & Golf Club. The expansive hotel boasts many grand 'onlys': it's home to the island's only golf course, water park, hydroponic farm, amphitheater, pickleball courts, double-decker bus, steakhouse and Teppanyaki dining experience. With 178 suites and villas, it spans 300 beachfront acres. Yet during my stay, the hotel still managed to make me feel as if I was the only one there. Here's how Aurora Anguilla—busy prepping plenty of new offerings for the upcoming busy season—serves up the conveniences of an all-inclusive resort without losing an ounce of chic, boutique style.
SLEEP Aurora has a split personality—it's really not one resort but two, with Rendezvous Bay and Merrywing Bay each acting as the Ying to the other's Yang. On the Merrywing side is The Tower: a high-rise, currently being renovated, that offers modish rooms and suites featuring sweeping vistas of neighboring St. Martin. Rendezvous Beach at Aurora Anguilla, meanwhile, is more horizontal than vertical; its gorgeous, newly remodeled sea-front suites and multi-bedroom villas make for quite the scene: Mediterranean-style white angles against a backdrop of dazzling blue skies, impossibly florescent sea and bright white sand—so vividly pristine it almost hurts your eyes.
Both sides of the property feature stellar beaches, pools and eateries (more on these later) but they have distinct identities, which makes sense: for the 'chill' experience, stay on serene Rendezvous Beach; if you're more of a doer, Merrywing—where the waterpark, the golf course and most of the sporting activities are—is your place.
EAT Back to those Michelin stars I mentioned: They set Anguilla's bar very, very high, making it a true culinary capital of the Caribbean. Aurora's manifold eateries rise to the occasion thanks especially to a secret weapon: profound freshness, courtesy of one of the hotels 'onlys': its gorgeous hydroponic farm, capable of growing ridiculously fresh produce on an arid island where agriculture is all but impossible. This means that breakfast at Chef's Table includes touches like homemade hot sauce and garlic and ginger spread, perfect for pairing with your eggs and grilled veggies; dinner there complements just-caught fish and seafood—the seafood curry was my favorite—with hydroponic salads and garnishes.
At C Level—featuring beachside bites like West Indian Creole conch, house-smoked baby-back ribs and homemade gelato—the lobster salad with tarragon vinaigrette won my heart. And at the steakhouse D Richard's, perched majestically above it all at the Aurora International Golf Club, the feted steaks looked delectable but I couldn't resist the colossal Anguillan lobster, served with fennel, kaffir-lime black garlic sauce and chives; there was also hydroponic salad; snapper crudo with horseradish cream and dill oil, scallop with squid ink orzo pasta and tiger shrimp. The restaurants on the Merrywing side—Tokyo Bay, serving sushi and sashimi, Teppanyaki and Japanese steak; Breezes, boasting New England favorites like clambakes, lobster rolls and fish taco; and Oliva, with Italian fare—are all getting remodeled in time to welcome peak-season guests from November on.
DO My stay had just one big 'do': luxuriate in that perfect Anguilla beach, cocktail in hand. But for those wanting action—and especially those with kids to entertain—Aurora's options are staggering. On land, the sporting fun to be had includes 11 pickleball courts (the Caribbean's largest), a climbing wall, a world-class tennis center, beach volleyball, clay bocce, cycling, basketball, a 9-hole mini-golf course and the resort's crown jewel: Greg Norman's signature 18-hole golf course, with breathtaking views. In water, adults enjoy Aurora's partnership with SCUBA SHACK, Anguilla's only PADI 5-Star Dive Resort, while kids find their heaven at the massive waterpark, complete with slides and a lazy river. There's an island tour on a double-decker bus every Wednesday, movie nights at the impressive amphitheater every Friday and options for hikes, cave exploration and flora-and-fauna tours.
BE WELL Sorana Spa is a temple to wellness, with a gleaming fitness center, steam room and sauna, beauty salon and an array of treatments. Traditional Balinese and Thai massages are on the menu, along with some quite creative options: the VDM Marma Facial Massage uses Ayurvedic techniques; a golf ball massage is in homage to the course; 'Sand Bed Therapy' immerses you in alpha quartz during a 'touch dynamic flow' massage—it's inspired by the ancient practice of 'Psammotherapapy,' or sand bathing.
LOCAL TIP I planned my trip to coincide with August Monday, part of Anguilla's summer Carnival celebrations, known as the Anguilla Summer Festival. This Carnival connoisseur patted herself on the back many times for that sage decision. The massive boat race, party and concert on the beach, totally free of cost, is one of the least commercialized and most authentically community-driven Carnivals I've ever been to. Performances by big-name Caribbean artists like Mical Teja, Kes the Band and Kassav were phenomenal, and ogling the gorgeous Anguilla-made boats was pure joy.
LOCAL TIP The easiest way to get to Anguilla is by boat from St. Maarten/St. Martin, and it's an island definitely not worth just passing through. Check into Le Petit Hotel on the French side, which—along with its sister property down the road, L'Esplanade—remain my favorites on the island, decades after my first flawless stay there. It's all about the size: Le Petit Hotel has only 10 rooms, all with kitchens and balconies beckoning with magical views, all within steps of the beach, all decorated with French Creole flair; breakfast of fruit, yogurt, cafe and croissants is served on a grand tray in your room by your gracious hosts. The hotel is in Grand Case, a small fishing village that has everything you need in a holiday in just a few square miles: incredible French restaurants like Rainbow Cafe and Ocean 82, boutique shops selling chic bikinis and jewelry, nighttime Caribbean vibes at Tropic's Beach Bar, the famous lolos (barbeque stands), and the overall local feel of, well, a world before AI took the gorgeous grit out of life. You'll need to get around to explore the rest of the island—there's lots to see and do—and Marcus of Justice Car Rental is your man, with both taxi service and rentals that do justice to 'good service.'
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But despite all the new development, you'll still find seemingly untouched beaches that meet towering mountain peaks coated with lush tropical forests. It's a different side of the Dominican Republic that feels raw, real, and absolutely breathtaking. Here's what you need to know before visiting Rio San Juan, Dominican Republic. A guest room at Playa Grande Beach Club. Colorful Caribbean style and Palm Beach design meet at Playa Grande Beach Club, once a privately-owned collection of beachfront bungalows, that are now a luxury boutique hotel. Antique furniture and art pieces, handmade tiles, and ornate Dominican-inspired architecture make this property one of a kind, which is all the work of award-winning interior designer and owner Celerie Kemble. With just nine intimate bungalows, each with thoughtful touches like private verandas and copper soaking tubs, Playa Grande Beach Club feels like nothing less than the home away from home you've always dreamed of. One of just two Aman hotels in the Caribbean, Amanera overlooks expanses of untouched jungle and white sands that serve as breathtaking reminders of the area's natural beauty. The property's 25 stylish standalone casitas make use of clean lines and minimalist, modern design to maximize the tropical views. Amanera has amenities such as a state-of-the-art gym, sports courts, and a wellness center with a full range of spa treatments and experiences like guided meditation and yoga sessions. Dining in the hotel's clifftop, open-air restaurant is a must on your itinerary, whether you're a guest or not. ÀNI Dominican Republic feels like the pinnacle of luxury. It's an intimate resort that welcomes just one group of guests at a time to its private peninsula, which has sweeping 270-degree views of the sea. Designed for groups of up to 28 guests at a time, the property has a 30-person staff to take care of every detail of an all-inclusive stay the likes of which you've never experienced before. Private chef and butler service, childcare, excursions and activities, and even spa treatments are all inclusive here, a staple of the experience at Àni private resorts, found in a handful of dreamy destinations, including Anguilla, Sri Lanka, and Thailand. Many locals consider the beaches on the country's north coast to be some of the best in the country. Playa Grande is the area's largest and most picturesque, and its shores are surrounded by cliffs, but Valla also recommends visiting Playa Preciosa, located just a few minutes away. "Consistent waves, uncrowded beaches and temperate waters" make it suitable for both surfing and swimming, he says. Drive down the coast to Playa Calentón for a smaller yet similarly gorgeous stretch of sand with beach chairs and umbrellas for rent and food vendors to try. Set back from the serene beaches just north of Rio San Juan, Laguna Gri-Gri is a crystal-clear lagoon lined with mangrove forests and caves where tropical birds nest, making it one of the region's most important bird sanctuaries. Excursions include boat rides through the lagoon's peaceful channels that cut towards the sea, and stops at coves and caves for swimming and snorkeling. Adrenaline junkies rejoice! The northern coast of the Dominican Republic is a haven for watersports enthusiasts looking to spend their days surfing, paddleboarding, sailing, and more. Kitesurfing is the name of the game in Cabarete, with its aptly-named Kite Beach and a line of shops renting gear and offering classes for all levels. The region is one of the few places in the world where conditions are ideal for the sport year-round, though winds tend to be most favorable for kitesurfing in the warmer summer months. Every year between January and March, the Dominican Republic welcomes migrating humpback whales who seek out these warm waters to give birth to their young. You'll have to head to Samaná Bay to spot them, but it's well worth the hour-and-a-half drive to see baby whales frolicking with their mothers up close. Reward yourself with a stop at the white sand beaches of Cayo Levantado along the way. The Playa Grande Beach Club restaurant. Wander in off the beach for a late lunch or sunset dinner at Playa Grande Beach Club's main restaurant, set in its stately main house and within earshot of the ocean. The farm-to-table ethos is on full display in dishes throughout the menu, which features fresh fish and seafood alongside classic Dominican dishes available all day. There is nothing better than sipping drinks at sunset on the clifftops at Amanera's Casa Grande, though the restaurant's menu of impeccably fresh, flavorful dishes, drawing inspiration from both island and international influences, might give the views a run for their money. Casa Grande is open throughout the day and particularly popular in the evening, though brunch is its own culinary highlight. Reservations are required. The best bites in town are some of the simplest, sold directly on the sand at Playa Grande from a handful of vendors who set up shop rain or shine. "You can eat fresh fish, the sweetest piña coladas served right out of the pineapple, perfectly crispy fried plantain, and drink ice-cold beers," says Alexandra Jeronimo, the general manager at Playa Grande Beach Club. "You can also shop their little market of country souvenirs, including larimar, a gorgeous blue stone found only on the island." Rio San Juan has a handful of local eateries to choose from, but Cheo's is a popular choice for its friendly, welcoming atmosphere and generous servings of local favorites. The space is simple, but dishes like grilled lobster and fresh seafood served with fried plantains make it a standout, while affordable lunch specials make it the best deal in town. Aerial view of Playa Preciosa in Rio San Juan. Despite growing interest in travel to this part of the country, Rio San Juan remains largely unchanged, and it's still a small fishing village at its core. Though there's little to do beyond grabbing beachside bites and stocking up on staples for your stay, that's kind of its charm. However, be sure to make time to take in its mountain viewpoints, stunning beaches, and local eateries. Playa Grande, just a few minutes north of town, boasts the region's sleekest accommodations and dining outlets, making it a must-visit destination while exploring the area. "Cabarete is world-renowned for kitesurfing, but the sweeping stretches of coastline will also take your breath away," says Valla of the beach town located just an hour down the coast. Wild watersports excursions and lessons for would-be surfers and pros make this a haven for the laidback rather than the luxe. However, even the poshest of travelers will have trouble finding any fault with the line of beachfront bars and restaurants. Jeronimo recommends spending some time in Cabrera, sited just half an hour from Rio San Juan. He says one of the highlights here is"a walk on the cliffs in Cabrera at sunset," since the region is known for its less-visited beaches and beautiful mountainous hiking areas that hide waterfalls and lovely viewpoints. Make sure to stop at Laguna Dudú, an oversized cenote filled with crystal clear water for cliff diving and snorkeling. The pool area at Playa Grande Beach Club. The best time to visit the north coast of the Dominican Republic is between December and April, when sunny skies and slightly cooler temperatures make for ideal beach weather. Picture-perfect days draw many snowbirds and higher prices to match. However, this less-visited region still only gets a fraction of Punta Cana's travelers and never feels crowded. Atlantic hurricane season spans from June through November, so travelers visiting during the summer should expect more frequent rain showers and warmer temperatures, even when no tropical storms are in sight. The benefit of visiting during the low season is slashed prices on everything from flights to hotels, and the opportunity to see the island in all its lush, green abundance. Worried about the tangles of sargassum seaweed that have overtaken the beaches of many nearby Caribbean destinations? Don't be. Due to its location, "Rio San Juan is untouched by the sargassum that has impacted many other parts of the Dominican Republic and the Caribbean," says Valla. Aerial view of a small boat pulling into a Rio San Juan lagoon. This stretch of the country's northern coast is most easily accessible via Gregorio Luperón International Airport (POP) in Puerto Plata, located about an hour and a half west of Rio San Juan. Though Puerto Plata doesn't have as many arrivals as Punta Cana, direct flights from cities like Atlanta, New York, Charlotte, Miami, and Boston make it easily accessible from the East Coast. Starting in January, Copa Airlines will begin offering direct flights to Puerto Plata via Panama City, making it even more easily accessible from the rest of the region. Travelers can also consider flying into nearby airports and making a slightly longer drive to the region. The island's capital city, Santo Domingo, is about 2.5 hours away, and Santiago de los Caballeros is about 2 hours away. A white sand beach with clear blue travelers can pick up a rental car from the airport in Puerto Plata and will find it relatively easy to navigate the main roads in the region. However, most visitors prefer to book transportation with their hotel or resort before arriving, whether in the form of a private car and driver or shared transportation with other guests. As most travelers tend to stick close to the beach or hotel for most of their stay in the region, having a rental car for your visit may be more of a hassle and an expense than it is worth.
