‘The closest I tried to homemade': the best supermarket mayonnaise, tasted and rated

The Guardian

8 hours ago

I've spent my whole adult life making mayonnaise from scratch, turning my nose up at store-bought versions with chef-like snobbery, but after this tasting, I'm ready to accept that jarred mayonnaise is a valid addition to the store-cupboard.
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I wanted to consider in more depth what it is we want from a mayonnaise. According to Harold McGee in On Food and Cooking, mayonnaise is an emulsion of two liquids that don't normally combine – oil and water – stabilised by egg yolk's lecithin, which allows the oil to form tiny droplets dispersed in the water and creates that wonderful, unctuous, fatty texture we so love.
I think texture is the No 1 priority but, of course, flavour and the quality of the ingredients are also important factors. Mayonnaise lubricates and adds umami savouriness to our food, making otherwise bland ingredients desirable. I prefer a gently flavoured mayonnaise with a subtle tang of lemon juice or white-wine vinegar, but most shop-bought options, including 'premium products', use spirit vinegar, which gives them the aroma of a chip-shop pickled egg.
Mayonnaise isn't meant to be eaten straight from the jar, but tasting these that way was invaluable, because it let me see how each brand might have a more distinctive or pronounced sweetness or sourness or salt content. I also sampled each mayo with salad leaves and chips to see how it behaved in real-life conditions. For me, the best vehicle for mayo is a crunchy lettuce leaf or a chicken sandwich; for my wife, it's tuna. Either way, a good mayo should enhance our food.
I'm normally firmly of the opinion that you get what you pay for, but surprisingly, while I'm sure the more expensive mayonnaises use higher-quality, ethically sourced ingredients, my taste buds couldn't always tell the difference; some of the humble, lower-priced options delivered just as much satisfaction as their premium counterparts. While I've discovered that there are some worthy shop-bought options that deserve a place in my pantry for convenience, there's still a special magic to homemade mayonnaise that can't be replicated in a factory.
£4.50 for 500g at Waitrose (90p/100g)£4.55 for 500g at Ocado (91p/100g)★★★☆☆
This really packs a punch, but it's one of the more processed options. Naturally sweet from sake lees (the grain mash left over from making sake), which brings a unique depth, this is sweet, sour, salty and has an umami-rich profile that's enhanced by MSG and vegetable oils (soya and rapeseed), while mustard adds complexity. With a high egg yolk content of 17%, this is rich and satisfying, making it a good choice if you want full-on flavour. It's also well priced compared with its main competitor, Kewpie (see below).
£3.25 for 250g at Ocado (£1.30/100g)£3.30 for 250g at Waitrose (£1.32/100g)★★★★★
A pale mustard yellow colour with a distinct scent of white-wine vinegar, egg and dijon mustard. Well emulsified but loose, this has a natural sweetness with no added sugar – a refreshing change. The vinegar acidity is clear but not overpowering, while the dijon really stands out, landing a satisfying punch. The closest I tried to homemade, with classic ingredients, and lemon juice instead of concentrate. It also uses sunflower oil rather than rapeseed oil, which I prefer for environmental reasons due to the lower pesticide levels and the natural weed-suppressing benefits of sunflowers.
99p for 500ml at Tesco (20p/100ml)★★☆☆☆
Pale ivory in colour and glossy. The aroma is eggy and acidic, probably due to the spirit vinegar, and it's thick, with a slight jelly-like consistency from the corn starch. On tasting, it's quite sweet but still enjoyable, with a clear vinegar acidity that's not overpowering. There's also a hint of lemon. Worryingly cheap (how do supermarkets make such cheap food and at what cost?), but pretty good for the bottom of the price range.
£6.50 for 175g at Ocado (£3.71/100g)★★★☆☆
Dairy cream in colour, with a gentle egg aroma. This was the only mayonnaise tested that didn't have a strong acidic smell. It has a light texture, partially thickened with xanthan gum, which is perhaps used to play it safe and avoid separation. Sweet but enjoyable, with a balanced acidity and a pleasing complexity from the mustard and olive oil. It's a nice choice, but a bit disappointing given the extremely high price, especially because I usually find organic mayonnaise to be leagues ahead of conventional options.
£2.50 for 170g at Ocado (£1.47/100g)★★★☆☆
Nice, golden-yolk colour with specks of mustard seed. The aroma is sour, with complex notes of egg and mustard, and it's thick-textured, with a slight jelly-like consistency. A subtle, natural sweet taste with a sour kick, though sadly the apple vinegar doesn't come through clearly, possibly due to the addition of concentrated lemon juice and white vinegar. Overall, a good all-rounder, with balanced flavours and a loose texture that maintains good emulsification. A nice option, though not a heavy hitter. B-Corp certified, meaning it meets high social and environmental performance standards.
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£4.95 for 470g (500ml) at Sainsbury's (99p/100ml) £5.90 for 355ml at Amazon (£1.66/100ml)★★★☆☆
Creamy in colour, with a faint pink hue from the red-wine vinegar. The aroma is dominated by egg, with a sharp acidity. Firm and thick, with a well-emulsified consistency, and sweet with a noticeable sour tang. Mustard and a blend of vinegars (spirit, apple and red wine) add depth and complexity. The high 14% egg yolk content gives it a rich, satisfying texture and its umami-rich flavour is boosted by MSG and the preservative calcium disodium EDTA. Despite its industrial production using caged hens' eggs, Kewpie's popularity could stem as much from its brand recognition as its distinctive flavour.
£2.28 for 400g at Asda (57p/100g)£2.80 for 400g at Tesco (70p/100g)★★☆☆☆
Pale cream-white, with an acidic aroma and subtle eggy notes. It has a thick texture and a jelly-like wobble. It's quite sweet but otherwise bland, with a balanced sourness and a hint of mustard in the background. Although it contains calcium disodium EDTA, there's nothing especially alarming about the ingredients list. Overall, a classic and inoffensive option.
£2.90 for 540g at Tesco (54p/100g)£3.40 for 540g at Sainsbury's (63p/100g)★★☆☆☆
Snow-white in colour (an indication that little yolk is used in the recipe), with a pungent aroma of vinegar and egg. Light texture, yet stiff from the added starches. Mildly sweet, with a balanced acidity and subtle egginess, it's less salty than others. While it's neutral and inoffensive, the overall flavour is fairly bland and uninspiring. Like Hellmann's and Kewpie, it contains calcium disodium EDTA. If you're looking for a mayo without strong character, this one will fit the bill, but it falls short if you want depth and richness.
£3.25 for 165g at Ocado (£1.97/100g)★★☆☆☆
A lovely pale-mustard yellow with a strong vinegar aroma. The texture is loose but well emulsified, and there's a subtle sweetness, but the acidity dominates, with a little complexity from mustard and olive oil. Disappointingly, the olive oil didn't add the depth I was hoping for, and the dominant flavour was vinegar. A nice enough mayo, but it falls way short of expectations for the price.
£4 for 345g at Waitrose (£1.16/100g)£15.95 for 3 x 345g at Amazon (£1.54/100g)★★☆☆☆
A pale ivory colour and a glossy sheen. The aroma is pungent with acetic acid, and the texture is thick and slightly jelly-like. Very sweet and a touch too sour, though the mustard and olive oil bring some complexity. Made with British free-range whole eggs, it has a slightly looser texture than the others, but is still well emulsified, although there was some oil separation – a big faux-pas.
£2.75 for 500ml at Waitrose (55p/100ml)★☆☆☆☆
Pale custard-yellow (coloured with paprika), with an aroma that's quite acidic from the spirit vinegar. The texture is thick and slightly jellified, and it's fairly sweet, though with a touch of sourness. The mustard flavour adds a subtle complexity. The addition of 5% olive oil adds nothing and doesn't justify the price, making it underwhelming overall.