
A sacred moment at a dried-up oasis: M'Hammed Kilito's best photograph
Mustapha was my guide that day. At first, he took me along the typical tourist trails, which didn't speak to my photographic interests. Then he suggested we explore the sand dunes. Initially, I wasn't particularly interested in these either, but then we came across this old well. I set up my camera, a 1972 Hasselblad 500, and my tripod. As I started to photograph the well, Mustapha stepped forward, instinctively leaning in to look inside. I hadn't imagined him in the picture but he didn't pay attention to me. That spontaneous gesture – part ritual, part desperation – transformed the scene completely. It felt sacred, as though he were praying for the return of something essential: water.
This unplanned moment encapsulates the core of my wider project, Before It's Gone: the fragility of ecosystems, the human search for survival, the quiet persistence of memory in the face of environmental loss. I began the project in 2018, driven by my growing awareness of how dramatically oasis environments were changing in Morocco. I started noticing patterns: rising temperatures, shrinking water sources, abandoned palm groves and increasing rural exodus. What was once a source of life and resilience for entire communities was slowly being erased. I felt an urgent need to document this transformation – not just ecologically but socially and culturally.
Over the years, the project has taken me to dozens of oases and expanded to include Tunisia, Egypt, Saudi Arabia and Mauritania. It has unfolded through travel, extended conversations and long-term engagement with the people who live in these spaces. What drives me is the conviction that these are not just local stories – they are global warnings. The climate crisis is often framed in abstract or future terms. Through this work, I want to make it visible, human and grounded in the present.
Including the human figure was essential. Oases are not just geographic features: they are homes, livelihoods and cultural reservoirs shaped over centuries. In this photograph, Mustapha embodies that deep connection. His gesture of looking into the well is both literal and symbolic – it speaks to dependence, resilience and vulnerability, but also to hope and remembrance. This reflects my work, which explores the complex relationship between people and their environments. Whether I'm documenting oases' decline, Moroccan youth, or the sociology of work and migration, I'm interested in how individuals navigate change.
Water scarcity is no longer just an environmental issue. It's a humanitarian crisis, especially in regions such as the Sahara, where life has always depended on fragile water sources. I hope images like this can serve as visual testimonies – simple, powerful reminders of what is at stake.
Photography has taught me to slow down and pay attention to people, landscapes and silence. This shot is a portrait of loss but also of quiet resistance. Communities are being forced to leave the only homes they've ever known, not because of war but because the water is disappearing. I hope the image evokes empathy and awareness. I want viewers to connect emotionally – to see the climate emergency not as a distant headline, but to recognise the urgent need to protect natural resources and the cultures and communities that depend on them.
This was a fleeting moment, entirely unplanned, yet it now speaks to so much. Seeing it enlarged today as a poster in underground stations across London, advertising the Wellcome Trust exhibition Thirst, is humbling. It shows the importance of staying open, of letting the story find you.
Born: Lviv, Ukraine, 1981Trained: Master in Political Science, University of OttawaInfluences: Alec Soth, Hakim Belabbes, Carlos ReygadasHigh point: 'Becoming a National Geographic explorer, having my photo on the cover of Nat Geo magazine, and winning the World Press Photo prize.'Low point: 'At a time when I was experiencing financial hardship, a gallery in Marrakech with which I'd planned an exhibition let me down.'Top tip: 'Believe in yourself, do your research, understand your niche, carve out your own path.'
The free exhibition Thirst: In Search of Freshwater is at the Wellcome Collection, London, until 1 February. See more images from Before It's Gone at www.kilito.com
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BBC News
13 hours ago
- BBC News
Tracee Ellis Ross' top tips for travelling solo
The black-ish actor is her own favourite travel companion. Here are her top tips for taking on the world one destination at a time, all on your own. When Tracee Ellis Ross needs to unwind, she books a trip with her favourite travel companion: herself. "I've been solo travelling since I was, like, 24 or 25," the effervescent star of the award-winning comedies black-ish and Girlfriends tells the BBC. "And I think my first solo trip went so well that it just… stuck." Ross, who now takes herself on holiday at least once a year, believes there are different reasons for travelling on one's own. "Some people solo travel for adventure," she says. "Some people solo travel to meet people. Some people solo travel to get away from their families and their lives… I solo travel as a way to be with myself out in the world." What does being with oneself out in the world look like for a beauty brand CEO, actor and producer who admits to living a "very regimented, full, hard, working life"? "I decompress," she says. "[I] let the dust settle... I learn a lot about myself but mostly I gain this emotional muscle of how to hold space for myself even when things don't go according to plan. I can do uncomfortable things and find joy." Ross is such a passionate advocate of travelling on her own that she has made her own docuseries Solo Traveling with Tracee Ellis Ross for The Roku Channel, which premieres on the platform 25 July. The three episodes follow Ross as she travels to Morocco, Mexico and Spain to indulge in her passions: beauty, fashion, design, food and culture. The style maven breaks down her routine from overpacking to how to relax on the plane, all while sharing her favourite ways to enjoy a new place entirely on your own. "I find that it's a glorious luxury," she says. "[But] I've never had any shame about it. I think I've had more shame around having so much luggage, but not about solo travelling. And I think that's really part of what I hope people gain from the show… It's okay to know yourself. It's okay to know the things that work best for you. It's okay to know how to take care of yourself. It's okay to lean into that." She adds: "One of the ways I've gotten over the shame of overpacking: my overpacking has never hurt anybody. It only brings joy. So do it. Pack it!" What other tips does Ross have for people who are dreaming of taking the plunge? Here are her tips. What advice do you have for people who aren't sure if they're ready to travel on their own? If you have an inkling inside that you might be somebody who wants to solo travel but you're anxious about it, go to dinner by yourself on a Tuesday or a Wednesday night at 18:00 when the restaurant opens. If you can do that and it feels good, upgrade yourself to Friday or Saturday night at 20:00 when the restaurant is hopping and full. In those experiences, ask yourself: Are you somebody who wants to bring a book? Are you fine just sitting there? Do you feel embarrassed? Do you feel ashamed? What's making you feel uncomfortable? How can you address that? Is that something that's real? Or do you really not care? If the experience was great, you can graduate to solo travelling. How do you pick your perfect solo travel destination? I do have to say that safety is a much bigger factor than it was when I was younger. I don't know if that's the world we live in now or if it's that I'm a 52-year-old woman who's very aware… but I do look for safety. I personally love a resort. I love a hotel room with a bathtub. I love a hotel room that has natural light. I love a hotel room that if I get too anxious to go out and do things out by myself, I can stay in the hotel room the whole time and feel fine. [pauses] I love a hotel that has really good French fries. How do you plan for safety beyond the hotel? That's when you ask yourself the question: 'Are there things about me, my life and who I am and my identity that are going to leave me vulnerable?' [Whether you say] I'm a woman, I'm a Black woman, I'm LGBTQ, I'm non-binary, I'm differently abled… Whatever those things are, research so that you make sure, to the best of your ability, that you know you're not going to feel overly vulnerable in those areas. [Then], go enjoy yourself! In the episode where you travel to Mexico, you wind up working. Does that happen often? I think it depends what's happening in my life, but the truth is that I'm a founder and CEO of a big, huge beauty company. There's no off time. This is my big, beautiful life so I don't find it to be a burden. I do answer texts more slowly when I'm on vacation. I don't have my phone with me every move I make. And I sometimes day drink. [laughs] So if you day drink, you can't be on that phone working! What are the first things you do in a new place? I settle in. I like to unpack; I'm an unpack girl. I also like to take a bath, because I feel like it settles my body off the plane, and I now actually have my feet on the ground. I love to look for a lymphatic drainage massage. How do you plan your trip? Usually, I have researched in advance if there's a particular restaurant I want to try or if there's a gallery or a museum that I want to visit so that I'm not spending my time researching. My favourite thing to do is find those places by asking [local] people versus TikTok, you know? Because I lived in Europe growing up and went to school in Europe, I know people and I can usually collect a really good sort of itinerary for myself. What's one thing you never do? I don't overbook. If I go on a trip, it might be like one restaurant that I try. I don't like to jam pack my days in any way, shape or form. You don't want to need a vacation from the vacation. I come home from my solo trips and I'm, like, ready to jive back into my life. There are some great scenes of you celebrating local food culture in the series. I try to keep it simple and order things that I know and love. [But in] Morocco, my mouth was so happy and I had no idea what I was eating. [There] were flavours that my mouth had never tasted! And it was delicious! I was, like, 'I don't even know what these things are!' So I love that part of it. And then you just wanna have some fries. What's the best way to experience a city on your own? I listen to the sounds. I find it so soothing to listen to the sounds of an environment, because they sound different everywhere. Wind sounds different. The birds sound different. The traffic sounds different. So I do a lot of listening when I'm travelling. One of my favourite sounds in the world is wind on trees. Truly, it's just magic to me. -- For more Travel stories from the BBC, follow us on Facebook and Instagram.


Daily Mail
a day ago
- Daily Mail
Popular tourist hotspot makes big change to travel advice
A popular winter sun city break destination has seen travel advice issued by the UK government changed this week. British tourists planning to visit Morocco have been warned by the Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office about the risks of carrying drugs in and out of the country, including Class B drug cannabis. The North African country has severe penalties for tourists caught carrying illegal substances while transiting through Moroccan airports, with heavy fines and long jail sentences handed out. The new Government travel advice issued yesterday says drug-detecting technology has been ramped up in recent years in the country. Its advice now reads: 'Illegal drugs, including cannabis, carry severe penalties. You should expect a long jail sentence and heavy fines for possessing, using or smuggling illegal drugs, including when transiting through the airport. 'Airports in Morocco have excellent technology and security for detecting illegal items. This is also used to scan the baggage of transiting passengers.' Tourism in Morocco continues to grow year-on-year, with around a million visitors descending on cities including Marrakech, Casablanca and coastal resorts including Essaouira and Agadir. The update comes just a day after a British mother was charged with trafficking drugs into Germany after being caught allegedly smuggling cannabis from Thailand. Cameron Bradford, 21, from Knebworth in Hertfordshire, was arrested at Munich Airport on April 22nd when she attempted to collect her luggage. Authorities had become suspicious after she allegedly changed her flight at the last minute, having originally been due to fly to London Heathrow via Singapore. Her family had filed a missing person report after raising concerns when she did not return home as expected, but then learned the next day she was in Germany. Miss Bradford was arrested and held in custody - and has now been charged with attempted transit of cannabis and abetting the international trafficking of cannabis. The mother, who has a young son, is set to make an appearance at a hearing in Munich District Court on August 6 as authorities continue to investigate. A Foreign Office spokesman said today: 'We are supporting a British woman who is detained in Germany and are in contact with her family and the local authorities.' Miss Bradford's arrest is one of a series of cases involving suspected young British female drug mules stopped by police at airports in countries around the world. This week, another British woman was arrested in Mauritius accused of trying to smuggle cannabis inside her six-year-old son's suitcase. This week, Natashia Artug, 35, of Huntingdon, Cambridgeshire, was detained alongside seven other people accused of carrying more than 161kg of the drug - worth £1.6million - in their luggage. The boy's luggage alone is said to have had 24 packages of drugs wrapped in clear cellophane inside weighing 14kg. Campaign group Justice Abroad claimed Ms Artug is 'vulnerable' and was coerced into travelling to Mauritius by people involved in the drug trade who threatened her and her family, adding that she did not know the bags contained cannabis. Miss Artug's partner Florian Lisman, a 38-year-old Romanian, was also arrested and said to be carrying 32 drug packages, an iPhone and £260. The other Britons detained were Patrick Lee Wilsdon, 22, Lily Watson, 20, Shannon Ellen Josie Holness 29, Laura Amy Kappen 28, and Shona Campbell, 32, who each had between 30 and 32 packages, according to local newspaper Le Mauricien. They were all on the same British Airways flight from London Gatwick to Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam airport last month. The suspects have all been charged with drug trafficking and remain in custody.


The Guardian
2 days ago
- The Guardian
A sacred moment at a dried-up oasis: M'Hammed Kilito's best photograph
I travelled to Merzouga in east Morocco three years ago, hoping to photograph some wall drawings and writings I had seen there earlier – markings that showed the distance from the village to Timbuktu, in Mali, by camel. But when I arrived, the markings had vanished. Faced with this absence, I found myself seeking a new story, something unplanned. Mustapha was my guide that day. At first, he took me along the typical tourist trails, which didn't speak to my photographic interests. Then he suggested we explore the sand dunes. Initially, I wasn't particularly interested in these either, but then we came across this old well. I set up my camera, a 1972 Hasselblad 500, and my tripod. As I started to photograph the well, Mustapha stepped forward, instinctively leaning in to look inside. I hadn't imagined him in the picture but he didn't pay attention to me. That spontaneous gesture – part ritual, part desperation – transformed the scene completely. It felt sacred, as though he were praying for the return of something essential: water. This unplanned moment encapsulates the core of my wider project, Before It's Gone: the fragility of ecosystems, the human struggle for survival, the quiet persistence of memory in the face of environmental loss. I began the project in 2018, driven by my growing awareness of how dramatically oasis environments were changing in Morocco. I started noticing patterns: rising temperatures, shrinking water sources, abandoned palm groves and increasing rural exodus. What was once a source of life and resilience for entire communities was slowly being erased. I felt an urgent need to document this transformation – not just ecologically but socially and culturally. Over the years, the project has taken me to dozens of oases and expanded to include Tunisia, Egypt, Saudi Arabia and Mauritania. It has unfolded through travel, extended conversations and long-term engagement with the people who live in these spaces. What drives me is the conviction that these are not just local stories – they are global warnings. The climate crisis is often framed in abstract or future terms. Through this work, I want to make it visible, human and grounded in the present. Including the human figure was essential. Oases are not just geographic features: they are homes, livelihoods and cultural reservoirs shaped over centuries. In this photograph, Mustapha embodies that deep connection. His gesture of looking into the well is both literal and symbolic – it speaks to dependence, resilience and vulnerability, but also to hope and remembrance. This reflects my work, which explores the complex relationship between people and their environments. Whether I'm documenting oases' decline, Moroccan youth, or the sociology of work and migration, I'm interested in how individuals navigate change. Water scarcity is no longer just an environmental issue. It's a humanitarian crisis, especially in regions such as the Sahara, where life has always depended on fragile water sources. I hope images like this can serve as visual testimonies – simple, powerful reminders of what is at stake. Photography has taught me to slow down and pay attention to people, landscapes and silence. This shot is a portrait of loss but also of quiet resistance. Communities are being forced to leave the only homes they've ever known, not because of war but because the water is disappearing. I hope the image evokes empathy and awareness. I want viewers to connect emotionally – to see the climate emergency not as a distant headline, but to recognise the urgent need to protect natural resources and the cultures and communities that depend on them. This was a fleeting moment, entirely unplanned, yet it now speaks to so much. Seeing it enlarged today as a poster in underground stations across London, advertising the Wellcome Trust exhibition Thirst, is humbling. It shows the importance of staying open, of letting the story find you. Born: Lviv, Ukraine, 1981Trained: Master in Political Science, University of OttawaInfluences: Alec Soth, Hakim Belabbes, Carlos ReygadasHigh point: 'Becoming a National Geographic explorer, having my photo on the cover of Nat Geo magazine, and winning the World Press Photo prize.'Low point: 'At a time when I was experiencing financial hardship, a gallery in Marrakech with which I'd planned an exhibition let me down.'Top tip: 'Believe in yourself, do your research, understand your niche, carve out your own path.' The free exhibition Thirst: In Search of Freshwater is at the Wellcome Collection, London, until 1 February. See more images from Before It's Gone at