Paris Fashion Week lights up with bold hues from Issey Miyake, Sean Suen, Bluemarble and Amiri

Fashion Network

27-06-2025

A renewed sense of vibrancy pulsed through the menswear collections on day three of Paris Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2026. In contrast to the subdued tones that have dominated recent seasons—often reflecting the world's uncertain climate—color made a striking comeback. Designers embraced both delicate, springlike hues and fearless, high-impact tones, signaling a shift toward optimism on the runway. Nowhere was this bold resurgence more apparent than at Issey Miyake, Sean Suen, Bluemarble and Amiri.
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At Issey Miyake, innovation met performance in a showcase that placed fabric and movement at the forefront. The IM Men collection, titled "Dancing Texture," debuted at the soon-to-be-relocated Fondation Cartier, where colossal textile panels depicting abstract landscapes floated above a live performance. Dancers moved fluidly beneath them, dressed in samurai-inspired garments that brought the designs' sculptural qualities to life.
Color and texture took the lead, expressed through inventive techniques. The design trio of Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara and Nobutaka Kobayashi drew inspiration from Japanese ceramicist Shoji Kamoda. His rounded, scale-like motifs were echoed across suits, tunics, kimono jackets and draped trench coats in a lively color palette.
Elsewhere, the collection explored the contrast of matte vermilion against undulating white, inspired by Kamoda's jars, or adopted the look of ash-glazed ceramics. Textures deepened—from faded gray denim sets to wavy-knit leggings and satin harem trousers in emerald green.
As always, the label displayed a masterful sense of color harmony. Vivid and pastel tones were layered with effortless finesse, such as a grass-green raincoat worn over a bright red jacket and electric blue trousers, or a lilac cotton suit paired with a lime mandarin-collar shirt.
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At Sean Suen, subtle bursts of color brought freshness to a neutral-toned wardrobe. Golden yellow and olive green cropped sweaters were layered over powder blue and sky-colored shirts, paired with flowing trousers or Bermudas. A pale pink trench was thrown over an ice-blue knit and a sage green shirt, creating a dreamlike palette.
The Chinese designer envisioned a hazy summer afternoon: a student slouched over his desk in a law library—specifically, the historic Cujas Law Library, repurposed as the show venue—drifting into reverie. These daydreams materialized as silhouettes that blurred eras, styles and fabrics. Draped wraps reminiscent of antiquity were worn over modern shorts, blending fantasy and wearability.
Classic suits in lightweight wool or distressed leather were reinterpreted through surreal details: trousers clipped to jackets, shirt collars with ancient coin buttons, tank tops adorned at chest height with the same coins, sleeve-like scarves trailing to the ground, and ribbon-tied socks evoking the opulence of the Louis XIV era.
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At Bluemarble, color reached an explosive crescendo. Roaring tigers were woven into red sweaters, highlighter-yellow pants clashed playfully with oversized green coats lined in camouflage, and caftan-style tunics were covered in travel pins, rendered in both vibrant orange and multicolor versions.
This season, designer Anthony Alvarez looked to his childhood in Toulon for inspiration, recalling trips up Mont Faron in a cable car. These nostalgic visuals—azure skies, snow-capped peaks, steel cables—were translated into prints on denim pieces, while models walked through a fog-filled runway scattered with leaves and bark.
The collection leaned into Bluemarble's streetwear essence with a more focused, grounded approach: ripped and washed jeans, hoodies, bombers, and knitwear—all accented with shimmering embellishments. Sequined mosaics lit up white T-shirts, rhinestone edelweiss motifs climbed up trousers and burst across shirts, and metal studs discreetly dotted lumberjack plaids. Climbing ropes edged pockets, continuing the mountaineering theme with a youthful twist.
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Amiri transported its audience to a romantic, storybook setting, presenting its collection in a classic French garden adorned with fountains, gravel paths and rose-covered trellises. Spring unfolded in full bloom—both figuratively and literally—as embroidered cherry blossoms stretched across shoulders, crept down jackets and spilled over cardigans. One standout tapestry-style bomber was entirely saturated in florals, blurring the line between garment and garden.
The American label's signature dandies remained as suave as ever, with vintage hotel room keys dangling from belt loops and lapels, and '70s sunglasses completing the look. Waistcoats plunged dramatically, jackets lengthened with exaggerated lapels, and leather pieces were so soft they mimicked the sheen of satin.
Models strode confidently in three-piece suits—whether in lightweight wool with pinstripes or Prince of Wales checks, or in lush velvets. Tailoring was flawlessly fluid, and rich embellishments—satin lapels, embroidered motifs—elevated the ensembles. Pajama sets were paired with luxurious silk robes, and sparkling polos added flair. Between safari jackets with cigar pockets and lace-trimmed pieces, these modern dandies had no shortage of stylish choices.