High jewellery encounters Singapore's cultural heritage
The Parisian jeweller Frédéric Boucheron was a maverick in his time. While his contemporaries thought of jewels as standalone objects, he was thinking of them as part of a complete stylistic message. Hence his invention in 1879 of the Question Mark necklace, a liberated jewel without a clasp that could be worn without assistance. That expression and philosophy evolved by 1883 into peacock feather, or plume de paon , designs that aimed to evoke the fluttery lightness of its inspiration. Most recently, the house's creative director Claire Choisne has taken the feather motif and given it brilliant chromatic life, by fusing white gold with coloured titanium to give her peacock feathers even more nuanced gradations of colour. Boucheron Plume de Paon earrings. Titanium, white gold, white diamonds, brown diamonds, tanzanites, sapphires, tsavorites; 21st century; Paris, France. Ching Lee Function and flair
Traditional Peranakan terrace houses tend to feature pintu pagar , a Baba Malay term for which the literal English translation is 'fence door'. Constructed at half height, these doors are meant to provide ventilation, as well as a little privacy and security during the day when they are left open. This one from the Asian Civilisations Museum's collection is a rare and unusually ornate example. Fine carving and gilt work are present on both sides, as opposed to the usual one, and it features an eclectic mix of Chinese and European motifs—a symbol of status, displayed to visitors, for what was perhaps a wealthy Peranakan family. Outer gates (pintu pagar). Teak, gilt paint, glass; late 19th to early 20th centuries; Singapore. Collection of the Asian Civilisations Museum. Courtesy of the Asian Civilisations Museum
Van Cleef & Arpels is deeply feminine and romantic, but some of its most inventive and enduring creations were born out of functional, industrial advances. In 1934, amid burgeoning serialised production and the Bauhaus school's design philosophy of replicability, the Parisian maison embarked on a creative quest. It designed the Ludo (a nickname of Louis Arpels), inspired ostensibly by the wraparound function of a belt, with a supple, new-at-the-time gold mesh technique. It has endured as a Van Cleef & Arpels signature, taking on stylistic evolutions in keeping with its time. This modern example is crafted with classic details: hexagonal briquette links, star-set round rubies and a functional twisting jewelled clasp. Van Cleef & Arpels Ludo bracelet. Rose gold, rubies, diamonds, coral; 21st century; Paris, France. Ching Lee Artistic roads
Tiles are one of the more unassuming but vibrant expressions of a culture's artistic heritage. Geometric motifs, for instance, are one of the core modes of artistic expression in the Islamic world. Some scholars posit that the repeatable infinity of geometric designs connects with the infinite nature of the divine. Twelve-pointed stars, arabesques and diamond-shaped motifs, which feature on these tiles, are elements of this rich visual canon which has had a wide and lasting influence. Pair of geometric tiles. Ceramic; 15th century; Multan, Pakistan. Collection of the Asian Civilisations Museum. Courtesy of the Asian Civilisations Museum Hexagonal tile with central quatrefoil motif. Ceramic; late 16th to early 17th centuries; Bijapur, India. Collection of the Asian Civilisations Museum. Courtesy of the Asian Civilisations Museum Hexagonal tile with central diamond motif. Ceramic; late 16th to early 17th centuries; Bijapur, India. Collection of the Asian Civilisations Museum. Courtesy of the Asian Civilisations Museum
The simplest of design motifs has also a way of travelling across cultures, escaping boundaries and finding its way into artistic heritages the world over. Rosettes, which are a graphical representation of the leaves of a flower, can be found as far back as ancient Mesopotamia. This motif travelled and was adopted in Renaissance Italy, where it featured as a decorative architectural element. The Milanese jeweller Buccellati, which has an abiding love for Renaissance-era craftsmanship and an ornate, old-world look, uses these in many of its designs. In these Tulle watches, the rosette compositions on the dial, as well as the articulated bracelets, are filled with coloured enamel for a stained-glass effect. Buccellati Tulle watches. White gold, diamonds, enamel; 21st century; Milan, Italy. Ching Lee Summer Splendour
The auspicious, blooming colours and motifs of flora and fauna on this circa 1920s beaded tablecloth are thought to be part of the 'spring table' of a Peranakan wedding chamber. Crafted so that it can be appreciated from all sides, the designs draw inspiration and influence from the colours and compositions of Chinese embroidery as well as bird and flower elements from Europe. It is crafted with over a million glass beads, some of them faceted, and said to be one of the largest and most important pieces of Peranakan beadwork in existence. Table cover. Cotton needlepoint canvas and European glass seed beads; around 1920; Penang. Collection of the Asian Civilisations Museum, restoration sponsored by BNP Paribas Foundation and BNP Paribas Singapore Branch. Courtesy of the Asian Civilisations Museum Tablecloth. Beadwork; early 20th century; Penang. Collection of the Asian Civilisations Museum. Courtesy of the Asian Civilisations Museum
Cartier's Anansi necklace is named after a trickster deity from African folklore who is often portrayed as a spider. This creation comes from the Parisian jeweller's [Sur]naturel high jewellery collection, which is themed around creative abstractions of nature. It is set with a rare sequence of eight hexagonal peridots, composed with fine diamond and platinum lines and faceted peridot beads to resemble light glistening off a spider's web—perhaps after a summer rain. Cartier Anansi earrings and necklace. Platinum, peridots, diamonds; 21st century; Paris, France. Ching Lee Treasures of the old world
One of the more remarkable qualities of jewellery, viewed historically, is that it lasts. Metal and stones are hardy materials, and surviving jewels can tell us a lot about the tastes and styles of a different time. That much is obvious in this magnificent 1900s jewelled peacock belt, one of the Peranakan Museum's prized artefacts. It is made of 18 linked panels of gold, set with a central diamond weighing over five carats. Each of these panels features peacock designs, decorated with white, yellow, brown and orange-pink diamonds. Peacock belt. Gold, diamonds; early 20th century; Singapore or Straits Settlements. Collection of the Peranakan Museum, Peacock belt, gift of Edmond Chin. Courtesy of the Peranakan Museum
Tiffany & Co. is relishing the legacy of Jean Schlumberger, the talented midcentury designer whose works for the New York jeweller helped advance and define a modern look of jewellery. With time, Schlumberger's design codes have acquired the lustrous patina of an older, rarer and more refined world. Glamour, after all, is often more tantalising when it's just out of reach. The Fringe necklace, based on a celebrated 1956 design, references Schlumberger's origins in a family of Alsatian textile merchants. Each 'fringe' of hand-twisted gold rope is articulated, and dotted with diamonds set on platinum so it looks as though they are floating. The paillonné enamel Croisillon bracelet, first introduced in 1962, is meanwhile one of the jewellery world's icons of design history. The ancient technique of enamelling is enhanced with sheets of gold foil, laid in layers, to create colours that are deep, vibrant and luminous. Schlumberger by Tiffany & Co. Fringe necklace and Croisillon bracelet. Yellow gold, platinum, diamonds; 21st century, New York, the US. Yellow gold, paillonné enamel; 21st century; New York, the US. Ching Lee
Photography Ching Lee
Styling Lance Aeron
Vogue Singapore's July/August 'Home' issue is available on newsstands and online.
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Vogue Singapore
20 hours ago
- Vogue Singapore
High jewellery encounters Singapore's cultural heritage
Emily, that famed matriarch of Emerald Hill, is one of Singapore's great literary and stage icons. The Stella Kon play has been staged many times, and is an iconic expression of Peranakan culture and identity. An indelible part of the nyonya expression is the sarong kebaya, a style of clothing that conjures a sense of heritage and tradition. Here, a sarong kebaya created by Raymond Wong, the designer at Rumah Kim Choo who also contributed bespoke costumes for this year's hit television series Emerald Hill – The Little Nyonya Story. That series features, as it happens, the dual cover stars of Vogue Singapore's 'Home' issue: television legend Zoe Tay, and ingenue of the moment Tasha Low. This costume was commissioned by Ivan Heng, a luminary of Singapore theatre, who has stepped into the beaded shoes of the play's titular Emily Gan over 100 times. Its meanings are subtly coded: peony and phoenix motifs, as well as a vibrant palette, that allude to rebirth and blossoming in spring. Sarong kebaya costume by Raymond Wong. Cotton, batik; 2019; Singapore. Collection of the Peranakan Museum, gift of Ivan Heng, founder and artistic director of Wild Rice and Cultural Medallion 2013 honouree. Courtesy of the Peranakan Museum The Parisian jeweller Frédéric Boucheron was a maverick in his time. While his contemporaries thought of jewels as standalone objects, he was thinking of them as part of a complete stylistic message. Hence his invention in 1879 of the Question Mark necklace, a liberated jewel without a clasp that could be worn without assistance. That expression and philosophy evolved by 1883 into peacock feather, or plume de paon , designs that aimed to evoke the fluttery lightness of its inspiration. Most recently, the house's creative director Claire Choisne has taken the feather motif and given it brilliant chromatic life, by fusing white gold with coloured titanium to give her peacock feathers even more nuanced gradations of colour. Boucheron Plume de Paon earrings. Titanium, white gold, white diamonds, brown diamonds, tanzanites, sapphires, tsavorites; 21st century; Paris, France. Ching Lee Function and flair Traditional Peranakan terrace houses tend to feature pintu pagar , a Baba Malay term for which the literal English translation is 'fence door'. Constructed at half height, these doors are meant to provide ventilation, as well as a little privacy and security during the day when they are left open. This one from the Asian Civilisations Museum's collection is a rare and unusually ornate example. Fine carving and gilt work are present on both sides, as opposed to the usual one, and it features an eclectic mix of Chinese and European motifs—a symbol of status, displayed to visitors, for what was perhaps a wealthy Peranakan family. Outer gates (pintu pagar). Teak, gilt paint, glass; late 19th to early 20th centuries; Singapore. Collection of the Asian Civilisations Museum. Courtesy of the Asian Civilisations Museum Van Cleef & Arpels is deeply feminine and romantic, but some of its most inventive and enduring creations were born out of functional, industrial advances. In 1934, amid burgeoning serialised production and the Bauhaus school's design philosophy of replicability, the Parisian maison embarked on a creative quest. It designed the Ludo (a nickname of Louis Arpels), inspired ostensibly by the wraparound function of a belt, with a supple, new-at-the-time gold mesh technique. It has endured as a Van Cleef & Arpels signature, taking on stylistic evolutions in keeping with its time. This modern example is crafted with classic details: hexagonal briquette links, star-set round rubies and a functional twisting jewelled clasp. Van Cleef & Arpels Ludo bracelet. Rose gold, rubies, diamonds, coral; 21st century; Paris, France. Ching Lee Artistic roads Tiles are one of the more unassuming but vibrant expressions of a culture's artistic heritage. Geometric motifs, for instance, are one of the core modes of artistic expression in the Islamic world. Some scholars posit that the repeatable infinity of geometric designs connects with the infinite nature of the divine. Twelve-pointed stars, arabesques and diamond-shaped motifs, which feature on these tiles, are elements of this rich visual canon which has had a wide and lasting influence. Pair of geometric tiles. Ceramic; 15th century; Multan, Pakistan. Collection of the Asian Civilisations Museum. Courtesy of the Asian Civilisations Museum Hexagonal tile with central quatrefoil motif. Ceramic; late 16th to early 17th centuries; Bijapur, India. Collection of the Asian Civilisations Museum. Courtesy of the Asian Civilisations Museum Hexagonal tile with central diamond motif. Ceramic; late 16th to early 17th centuries; Bijapur, India. Collection of the Asian Civilisations Museum. Courtesy of the Asian Civilisations Museum The simplest of design motifs has also a way of travelling across cultures, escaping boundaries and finding its way into artistic heritages the world over. Rosettes, which are a graphical representation of the leaves of a flower, can be found as far back as ancient Mesopotamia. This motif travelled and was adopted in Renaissance Italy, where it featured as a decorative architectural element. The Milanese jeweller Buccellati, which has an abiding love for Renaissance-era craftsmanship and an ornate, old-world look, uses these in many of its designs. In these Tulle watches, the rosette compositions on the dial, as well as the articulated bracelets, are filled with coloured enamel for a stained-glass effect. Buccellati Tulle watches. White gold, diamonds, enamel; 21st century; Milan, Italy. Ching Lee Summer Splendour The auspicious, blooming colours and motifs of flora and fauna on this circa 1920s beaded tablecloth are thought to be part of the 'spring table' of a Peranakan wedding chamber. Crafted so that it can be appreciated from all sides, the designs draw inspiration and influence from the colours and compositions of Chinese embroidery as well as bird and flower elements from Europe. It is crafted with over a million glass beads, some of them faceted, and said to be one of the largest and most important pieces of Peranakan beadwork in existence. Table cover. Cotton needlepoint canvas and European glass seed beads; around 1920; Penang. Collection of the Asian Civilisations Museum, restoration sponsored by BNP Paribas Foundation and BNP Paribas Singapore Branch. Courtesy of the Asian Civilisations Museum Tablecloth. Beadwork; early 20th century; Penang. Collection of the Asian Civilisations Museum. Courtesy of the Asian Civilisations Museum Cartier's Anansi necklace is named after a trickster deity from African folklore who is often portrayed as a spider. This creation comes from the Parisian jeweller's [Sur]naturel high jewellery collection, which is themed around creative abstractions of nature. It is set with a rare sequence of eight hexagonal peridots, composed with fine diamond and platinum lines and faceted peridot beads to resemble light glistening off a spider's web—perhaps after a summer rain. Cartier Anansi earrings and necklace. Platinum, peridots, diamonds; 21st century; Paris, France. Ching Lee Treasures of the old world One of the more remarkable qualities of jewellery, viewed historically, is that it lasts. Metal and stones are hardy materials, and surviving jewels can tell us a lot about the tastes and styles of a different time. That much is obvious in this magnificent 1900s jewelled peacock belt, one of the Peranakan Museum's prized artefacts. It is made of 18 linked panels of gold, set with a central diamond weighing over five carats. Each of these panels features peacock designs, decorated with white, yellow, brown and orange-pink diamonds. Peacock belt. Gold, diamonds; early 20th century; Singapore or Straits Settlements. Collection of the Peranakan Museum, Peacock belt, gift of Edmond Chin. Courtesy of the Peranakan Museum Tiffany & Co. is relishing the legacy of Jean Schlumberger, the talented midcentury designer whose works for the New York jeweller helped advance and define a modern look of jewellery. With time, Schlumberger's design codes have acquired the lustrous patina of an older, rarer and more refined world. Glamour, after all, is often more tantalising when it's just out of reach. The Fringe necklace, based on a celebrated 1956 design, references Schlumberger's origins in a family of Alsatian textile merchants. Each 'fringe' of hand-twisted gold rope is articulated, and dotted with diamonds set on platinum so it looks as though they are floating. The paillonné enamel Croisillon bracelet, first introduced in 1962, is meanwhile one of the jewellery world's icons of design history. The ancient technique of enamelling is enhanced with sheets of gold foil, laid in layers, to create colours that are deep, vibrant and luminous. Schlumberger by Tiffany & Co. Fringe necklace and Croisillon bracelet. Yellow gold, platinum, diamonds; 21st century, New York, the US. Yellow gold, paillonné enamel; 21st century; New York, the US. Ching Lee Photography Ching Lee Styling Lance Aeron Vogue Singapore's July/August 'Home' issue is available on newsstands and online.
Straits Times
3 days ago
- Straits Times
Fun With Kids: Peranakan-inspired workshops, $4 cable car rides for two, new Monopoly S'pore edition
Sign up now: Get ST's newsletters delivered to your inbox Until Aug 31, local residents can enjoy a round-trip cable car ride for two people at $4 on the Sentosa Line, where the cabins are adorned with Peranankan-inspired designs. SINGAPORE – Make family time all the more special with these ideas and activities. Peranakan-inspired workshops; $2 cable car ride Learn to make ang ku kueh, ondeh-ondeh and kuih dadar – using polymer clay, that is. Join artist Nur Rashidah Khalid, known for her miniature food crafts on Instagram account Sherry's Minis, for the Tiny Traditions workshop. You and your children will create non-edible miniature clay kueh to take home as a magnet or brooch. Rashidah's two sessions on Aug 30 are part of a Peranakan-inspired workshop series curated by Mount Faber Leisure Group to celebrate the 10th anniversary of Singapore Cable Car's Sentosa Line. Held at the Siloso Point Cable Car Station, each hands-on class is 90 minutes and costs $40.50 a person, which includes a round trip on the Sentosa Line. Kids must be at least six years old and accompanied by a paying adult. Learn to create non-edible miniature clay kueh from artist Nur Rashidah Khalid. PHOTO: SHERRY'S MINIS The Gunong Sayang Association, which promotes Peranakan culture, will also lead two different classes on Aug 31. At its Manek Magic workshop, you will learn the time-honoured art of embellishing the kasut manek (beaded slippers). Alternatively, engage your senses in Scents Of Sayang, a session focused on crafting bunga rampay. This potpourri of flowers, pandan leaves and herbs is a traditional gift at Peranakan and Malay weddings. Artisans of Gunong Sayang Association will guide you and your kids on the traditional art of Peranakan beading. PHOTO: GUNONG SAYANG ASSOCIATION To mark its 10th anniversary, cable car cabins on the Sentosa Line are adorned with Peranakan-inspired designs, featuring colourful motifs reminiscent of Koon Seng Road's iconic shophouses. Until Aug 31, Singapore citizens and local residents can enjoy promotions on the Sentosa Line: a round-trip ride for two people costs $4 (usual price: $17 an adult) and one-day unlimited rides for two are at $14 (usual price: $27 an adult). Sentosa island admission is not included. Go to for details. New Monopoly Singapore edition Landmarks such as Jewel Changi Airport and Bird Paradise have made their way onto the revamped Monopoly Singapore edition board game. PHOTO: HASBRO The Monopoly Singapore edition gets a reboot, aligning with the nation's progress. This latest version of the classic board game introduces new landmarks such as Jewel Changi Airport and Bird Paradise, and updated MRT stations such as Marine Parade on the Thomson-East Coast Line. Pity that while S.E.A. Aquarium is included, it has not yet been updated with its new name Singapore Oceanarium, which opened on July 24. The Monopoly Singapore edition was released in 2006, followed by a second update in 2016. Globally, Monopoly has also unveiled a fresh look for its board game as it celebrates its 90th anniversary. The new Singapore edition, like others, features larger tokens, houses and hotels, making them easier for players to handle and move around the board. The packaging has also been redesigned into a more compact square box, saving space compared with the previous rectangular version. In addition to the visual revamp, the company has introduced three new expansion packs, injecting new life into the gameplay. For instance, the Free Parking Jackpot expansion pack transforms the existing 'free parking' space into a jackpot, allowing players to draw bonus cards and acquire free properties. The new Monopoly Singapore edition retails for $49.90 at major retailers and online stores. Expansion packs can be purchased separately for $16.90 each.
Vogue Singapore
7 days ago
- Vogue Singapore
Vogue's Watches Report: Seriously beautiful high jewellery watches
Courtesy of Piaget A ladies' timepiece used to be a bit of an afterthought for many watchmakers. Going by the releases and design trends this year at Watches and Wonders, the world's biggest horological showcase, that is surely no longer. Pursuits of beauty, poetry and (surprise!) usefulness are making the ladies' category perhaps the most exciting it's ever been. In this series of Vogue Watch Reports, we curate 2025's most noteworthy releases from Geneva. Here, high jewellery watches that pack a serious punch in the aesthetic arena. There are those who hold the short-sighted view that high jewellery watches are unserious. That's far from the truth. The pursuit of beauty in its extremes can inspire the creation of watches so beautifully, elegantly and masterfully crafted that they make almost banal the function of hours and minutes. As watch brands continue to hone and improve their offerings for women, and as men's interest in jewellery looks set to grow, there's a point where the interests to join to create high jewellery pieces that are spectacular highlights. Rather than fuss over reference numbers and one- or two-millimetre differences in case sizes, or the hours in a power reserve and how many metres of waterproofness, how about a more indulgent spread of vital statistics in the form of carats and gemstones? Courtesy of Patek Philippe 1 / 7 Patek Philippe ref. 5811/1460G Nautilus Haute Joaillerie In this new Nautilus Haute Joaillerie model, Patek Philippe has paired the silhouettes of round brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds to create a watch that's as mesmerising as it is structured. It's crafted in white gold and set with a total of 1,285 brilliant-cut diamonds weighing 6.43 carats total, and 195 baguette-cut diamonds weighing 13.27 carats. The case is set with 100 brilliants, with 32 baguette-cuts on the bezel; 13 baguette-cuts and 297 brilliant-cuts on the dial; and finally 150 baguettes and 888 brilliants on the bracelet. 2 / 7 Van Cleef & Arpels Ruban Mystérieux The Parisian high jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels counts the world of haute couture as one of its core inspirations, and this new watch evokes the delicate fold of a ribbon on the wrist. It's crafted in white and rose gold, with a virtuosic snow-set arrangement of diamonds. On its left edge, a line of emeralds; and on the right edge of this ribbon, the house's signature Traditional Mystery Set with emeralds and sapphires. The dial, with a base of mother-of-pearl, is its most subtle but breathtaking detail. It is, in fact, an oval-cut 3.72-carat DIF diamond so internally flawless that it reveals a perfect, clear view of the dial. Courtesy of Cartier 3 / 7 Cartier Panthère Bangle One of Cartier's inimitable skills with its Panthère icon is sculpting jewellery into functional objects of artistry. This bangle design in white gold places the Parisian house's cherished feline in a gentle stretch, one paw reaching for the cleverly angled dial of the watch. It's animated with emerald eyes, an onyx nose and spots, and 1,103 diamonds weighing 11.90 carats in total that have been snow-, pavé-, and fur-set to give its sparkling coat a bristly, living effect. Courtesy of Chopard 4 / 7 Chopard Precious Lace Chopard continued this year to enrich its Precious Lace collection of high jewellery with this new timepiece, a masterpiece in ethical white gold that arranges diamonds in such a delicate manner as to evoke lace. The piece is set with 436 diamonds in total, weighing 9.13 carats. Most strikingly, it features a scalloped guipure lace design on the rim of the dial and the bracelet, with lines of larger diamonds accented by smaller stones. The sapphire crystal, in keeping with this spirit of sculpted brilliance, is faceted to resemble the shape of diamond. Courtesy of Chanel 5 / 7 Chanel Toi & Moi The Lion of Mademoiselle ring watch If an haute joaillerie timepiece already doubles as both a jewel and a watch, why not consider other types of wearing it besides the wrist? Chanel had the bright idea to craft a veritable statement of a cocktail ring as a watch. Yellow gold is exquisitely sculpted and shaped to create a pair of lion 'sculptures', each of them set with a 0.42-carat princess-cut diamond. The rest of the ring-watch features 134 brilliant-cut diamonds weighing around 3.21 carats; a dial with 57 baguette-cut diamonds of 0.89 carats; and a bezel with 20 baguette-cuts weighing 0.6 carats. Courtesy of Hermès 6 / 7 Hermès Maillon Libre Hermès may have debuted its Maillon Libre as a non-traditional, nomadic brooch, but it's also come up with a more classic wristwatch style that turns its links into a structured cuff bracelet. This model in rose gold is bezel-set with four cushion-cut terracotta tourmalines, 218 brilliant-cut diamonds weighing around 3.96 carats, and 12 baguette-cut diamonds weighing around 1.08 carats. 7 / 7 Piaget Essentia Piaget has dedicated its thematic focus this year to shapes, and in its high jewellery timepieces the most charming expression is perhaps this Essentia. Instead of a definite, geometric shape, this cuff watch has a biomorphic fluidity, like pebbles that have been shaped by running water—the hands of the divine. It's a testament to the maison's gold crafting savoir-faire to create such an organic feeling. The yellow gold case and bracelet are accented by gentle, wavy lines of brilliant-cut diamonds, and a resplendent opal dial. Vogue Singapore's June 2025 'Gold' issue is available on newsstands and online.
