Filling the U.S. gap

Winnipeg Free Press

2 days ago

Opinion
It's been just more than six months since Manitoba Liquor and Lotteries (MLL) was directed by the provincial government to pull all U.S. alcohol from store shelves in response to tariffs threatened by U.S. President Donald Trump.
With many other provinces following suit, and other countries dialing back imports of U.S. alcohol owing to similar tariffs (or threats of tariffs), producers south of the border have been feeling the pain.
A recent chart by the American Association of Wine Economists (yes, that is a thing) shows U.S. wine exports to Canada, the largest export market for American wine, fell in value by 72.5 per cent between March 2024 and March 2025, was down 93.2 per cent year-over-year between April of 2024 and 2025 and 97.2 per cent between May of last year and this year. In May 2024, the export value of U.S. wine exports was US$34.3 million — this year in the same month it was just US$960,000.
Spirits producers haven't been immune to the effects of Canada turning off the taps on American booze, with a number of distilleries, particularly those making bourbon, filing for bankruptcy. A recent story by the Drinks Business magazine on the troubles in bourbon country cites a number of factors in producers' troubles, including a change in preferences among younger drinkers (in both products and quantity) and, you guessed it, the fallout from tariffs (either implemented or threatened). Canada is (or was, at least) the second-largest export market for American spirits.
Yes, you can still buy American wines at some of Winnipeg's private wine stores — they've got stock purchased before the 2024 U.S. election, bought before Manitoba's decision to stop ordering American alcohol. But for those who'd prefer to keep elbows firmly up, there are some tasty options out there that will fill in quite nicely for the missing U.S. booze.
Here are three whites and a trio of reds that fit the bill…
Quails' Gate Field & Flight Chardonnay
Quails' Gate Field & Flight Chardonnay
The Quails' Gate 2023 Field & Flight Chardonnay (California/B.C. — $25.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) actually features fruit sourced from vineyards in California (pre-Trump) and crafted in B.C. in response to brutal winter temperatures in the Okanagan Valley that killed many vines and left the future of many area wineries in the lurch.
It's pale straw in colour and offers ripe pear, red apple and subtle peach notes, with a secondary floral and vanilla/spice component that's pretty.
On the dry, light-plus bodied palate there's a solid helping of ripe tree fruit (apple, peach and pear), with a lemon candy note that comes with medium acidity, a touch of viscosity and a hints of spice on the medium-length finish (it's 13.5 per cent alcohol). 3.5/5
Radford Dale 2023 The Winery of Good Hope Unoaked Chardonnay
Radford Dale 2023 The Winery of Good Hope Unoaked Chardonnay
The Radford Dale 2023 The Winery of Good Hope Unoaked Chardonnay (Stellenbosch, South Africa — around $22, private wine stores) is a solid option for those who miss ripe California Chardonnay but aren't crazy about big oaky flavours.
Pale gold in colour, it brings beautiful baked apple, peach, lemon candy, apricot and spice notes, all unencumbered by barrel influence.
It's dry and light-plus bodied, offering bright, fresh red apple and peach notes along with marmalade and spice, a lemony note that comes with the moderate acidity and, at 13.5 per cent alcohol, a decently lengthy finish.
An exceptional value — available at The Winehouse, Ellement Wine + Spirits and Kenaston Wine Market. 4/5
Torres Gran ViñaSol Chardonnay on Lees
Torres Gran ViñaSol Chardonnay on Lees
The Miguel Torres 2023 Gran ViñaSol Chardonnay on Lees (Catalunya, Spain — $17.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) is an organic, vegan Chardonnay (with about 15 per cent Parellada grapes) aged on lees — the spent yeast cells which did the work of converting the sugar inthe grapes to alcohol.
The wine's medium gold in colour and aromatically brings ripe red apple and pear as well as floral, bread dough and peachy notes.
It's medium-plus bodied, viscous and dry, with the lees aging (and maybe some oak and malolactic fermentation) adding fantastic texture that highlights the ripe apple and pear flavours as well as the secondary peach notes.
Hints of lemon and vanilla lurk in the background, and the 13.5 per cent alcohol is unobtrusive. Surprisingly complex for the price, and very well done. 4.5/5
Santa Ema 60/40 Cabernet Sauvignon Carmenère
Santa Ema 60/40 Cabernet Sauvignon Carmenère
On the red wine side of things, the name of the Santa Ema 2022 60/40 Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenère (Maipo Valley, Chile — $16.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) denotes the split of grapes in this Chilean red blend; aromatically it brings together eucalyptus, blackcurrant, plum, dark chocolate and violet notes.
It's dry and full-bodied, with the herbal/eucalyptus notes bringing a touch of bitterness to the tannins that surround the ripe plum and blackcurrant flavours, while a hint of vanilla (from 6-8 months in barrel) lingers with the medium-length finish (it's 13.5 per cent). 3/5
Dirty Laundry Cabernet Sauvignon
Dirty Laundry Cabernet Sauvignon
The Dirty Laundry 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon (British Columbia — $29.99, De Nardi Wines) is 90 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 10 per cent Merlot, with fruit sourced from both the Okanagan and Similkameen valleys.
It's bright cherry in colour, delivering cassis, plum, violet, earth and dark chocolate aromas. On the dry, medium-plus bodied palate it's ripe and juicy, with cassis, blueberry and plum flavours coming with a subtle bell pepper note, hints of white pepper, medium tannins and, at 13.5 per cent alcohol, a slightly warm finish.
The 15 months the wine spent in barrels before bottling contributes to the structure here. Available at De Nardi Wines. 4/5
Penny's Hill 2022 Cracking Black Shiraz
Last but not least, the Penny's Hill 2022 Cracking Black Shiraz (McLaren Vale, Australia — $29.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) is inky purple in colour, with a pronounced black cherry note on the nose of this Aussie Shiraz along with lacquer, plum, cassis, iron and earthy notes which show well.
It's dense, full-bodied and ripe, with red cherry, blackberry and cassis flavours along with secondary raspberry, black tea, mocha and spice notes, the latter three in large part thanks to 14 months in French oak barrels.
Tannins are moderately grippy, while the 14.5 per cent alcohol provides warmth and length. Drink now after letting it sit in the glass for 15-20 minutes, or set aside for 2-3 years. 4.5/5
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Ben SigurdsonLiterary editor, drinks writer
Ben Sigurdson is the Free Press's literary editor and drinks writer. He graduated with a master of arts degree in English from the University of Manitoba in 2005, the same year he began writing Uncorked, the weekly Free Press drinks column. He joined the Free Press full time in 2013 as a copy editor before being appointed literary editor in 2014. Read more about Ben.
In addition to providing opinions and analysis on wine and drinks, Ben oversees a team of freelance book reviewers and produces content for the arts and life section, all of which is reviewed by the Free Press's editing team before being posted online or published in print. It's part of the Free Press's tradition, since 1872, of producing reliable independent journalism. Read more about Free Press's history and mandate, and learn how our newsroom operates.
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