What Bengal Eats When It Rains: 7 Seasonal Favourites You Must Try
The rains bring with them an abundance of seasonal produce, including brinjal, pumpkin, teasel gourd, and the queen of all monsoon fish - ilish or hilsa. The food becomes gentler on the stomach, yet richer in flavour. Whether it is a humble bowl of khichuri or a celebratory plate of shorshe ilish, monsoon meals in Bengal are deeply rooted in tradition and tuned to nature.
So, what does Bengal eat when the skies pour and the rivers swell? Let us take you through the dishes that define the season for Bengalis.
Here Are 7 Traditional Recipes That Define Monsoon For Bengal:
1. Bhuna Khichuri - For A Rainy Afternoon
A rich, fragrant version of khichdi made with gobindobhog rice, roasted moong dal, ghee, and whole spices, this dish is all things simple and flavourful.
What is the difference between bhuna khichuri and regular khichuri?
Regular khichuri is a lighter, often runnier preparation made with minimal spices, suited for everyday meals or when one is under the weather. Bhuna khichuri, on the other hand, is richer. Here, the moong dal is dry roasted before cooking, and the rice is sauted with ghee and whole spices, giving it a deeper aroma and festive feel.
Pairing tips:
Begun bhaja and papad
Fried ilish for the perfect monsoon meal
Chutney on the side
2. Begun Bhaja - The Perfect Companion
The melt in mouth khichuri with hot and crispy begun bhaja is a match made in heaven. Thick slices of brinjal, marinated in turmeric and salt, are deep fried till golden for a crisp and smoky texture.
For fish lovers, begun bhaja can be replaced with a thick slice of ilish, fried following the same process.
Expert insight: Khichuri-mach bhaja (fried fish) or khichuri-begun bhaja combos are easily available at any Bengali restaurant. If you do not feel like cooking, simply order online through food delivery apps.
3. Shorshe Ilish - Monsoon's Crown Jewel
Hilsa, rightly referred to as the queen fish, is cooked in a bold mustard gravy with green chillies and mustard oil. The dish is iconic, indulgent, and deeply rooted in Bengali culinary tradition.
Expert insight: Although available year-round at Bengali restaurants, try the fresh monsoon catch to enjoy the buttery flavour at its best. Cook some rice at home, order shorshe ilish online, and have a hearty lunch.
Why is hilsa eaten in monsoon in Bengal?
Hilsa migrates from the sea to the rivers during the monsoon to spawn, making this the season when the fish is at its fattest, juiciest, and most flavourful form. Bengalis relish the soft, buttery flesh and delicate aroma that is at its peak during this time of the year.
How to cook shorshe ilish at home?
Grind fresh mustard seeds with green chillies into a smooth paste.
Marinate hilsa pieces with turmeric and salt.
In mustard oil, add the paste with a bit of water, season with salt, and simmer the fish till just cooked. The key is not to overcook the fish.
Click here for the detailed recipe of sorshe ilish.
4. Taler Bora - The Sweet Fritters With Festive Flair
Made from ripe sugar palm pulp, coconut, wheat flour, and jaggery, taler bora is deep fried till golden and chewy. Traditionally made during Janmashtami, it is a monsoon delicacy that bridges rural nostalgia and urban indulgence.
How is taler bora made during Janmashtami?
The pulp of ripe sugar palm is extracted and strained.
Then it is mixed with grated coconut, wheat flour, rice flour, and jaggery to form a thick batter.
Finally, small portions are dropped into hot oil and fried till golden and crispy.
Quick tip: Taler bora tastes best a day after frying when the flavours settle.
5. Peyaji And Alur Chop - The Rainy Day Essentials
Chai and pakoda go hand in hand, and it is no different in Bengal. Across every street corner, stalls fry up hot, crispy peyaji (onion fritters) and alur chop (spiced potato patties). More often than not, there is a chai stall right next to the pakoda counter, making it the perfect stop for an evening snack.
Which other Bengali snacks go best with tea in rainy season?
Apart from peyaji and alur chop, favourites include beguni (brinjal fritters) and phuluri (gram flour fritters). Muri (puffed rice) is often eaten alongside to balance the oiliness and for a true street-style experience.
6. Kakrol Bhaja - For A Seasonal Bite
It is teasel gourd, a quintessential monsoon vegetable, sliced into rounds, coated in rice flour or besan, and fried till crisp. Sometimes the kakrol is also stuffed with prawns or spiced coconut before frying, creating a perfect balance of texture and mild bitterness.
Chef's tip: Double fry for added crispiness and serve immediately with rice and a dollop of ghee.
What vegetables are in season in Bengal during monsoon?
The vegetables that dominate the market during the rainy season are:
Brinjal
Pumpkin
Teasel gourd (kakrol)
Pointed gourd (parwal)
Ridge gourd (jhinge)
Ash gourd (chalkumro)
Many leafy greens like pui shaak (Malabar spinach) and kolmi shaak (water spinach) also flourish in this season. However, it is always advised to clean these leafy greens with extra care during monsoon to avoid food contamination.
7. Macher Jhol With Seasonal Veggies - The Everyday Favourite
A light fish curry made with rohu or katla, potatoes, tomatoes, pumpkin, and pointed gourd (parwal) is what Bengalis truly define as comfort food. Spiced with ginger, cumin powder, turmeric, and green chillies, it is gentle on the stomach and packed with seasonal goodness.
Cooking tip:
Cook with mustard oil for depth and aroma
Serve with a wedge of lime to add a bright layer of flavour
These recipes are not only about satisfying hunger but also about keeping traditions alive, passing them from one generation to the next. So, try some of them and experience a slice of what Bengal eats during monsoon.
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NDTV
5 days ago
- NDTV
What Bengal Eats When It Rains: 7 Seasonal Favourites You Must Try
Bengal's love affair with food needs no separate introduction. Food here is more like poetry, memory and mood. And when monsoon arrives, a Bengali kitchen responds with a quiet shift in rhythm. The heat of summer gives way to the cooling downpour, and with it comes a change in ingredients, cooking styles, and cravings. Bengali cuisine, known for its versatility and depth, adapts beautifully to the season. From light, digestible meals to indulgent fried snacks, every dish reflects the weather outside and the emotions it stirs within. The rains bring with them an abundance of seasonal produce, including brinjal, pumpkin, teasel gourd, and the queen of all monsoon fish - ilish or hilsa. The food becomes gentler on the stomach, yet richer in flavour. Whether it is a humble bowl of khichuri or a celebratory plate of shorshe ilish, monsoon meals in Bengal are deeply rooted in tradition and tuned to nature. So, what does Bengal eat when the skies pour and the rivers swell? Let us take you through the dishes that define the season for Bengalis. Here Are 7 Traditional Recipes That Define Monsoon For Bengal: 1. Bhuna Khichuri - For A Rainy Afternoon A rich, fragrant version of khichdi made with gobindobhog rice, roasted moong dal, ghee, and whole spices, this dish is all things simple and flavourful. What is the difference between bhuna khichuri and regular khichuri? Regular khichuri is a lighter, often runnier preparation made with minimal spices, suited for everyday meals or when one is under the weather. Bhuna khichuri, on the other hand, is richer. Here, the moong dal is dry roasted before cooking, and the rice is sauted with ghee and whole spices, giving it a deeper aroma and festive feel. Pairing tips: Begun bhaja and papad Fried ilish for the perfect monsoon meal Chutney on the side 2. Begun Bhaja - The Perfect Companion The melt in mouth khichuri with hot and crispy begun bhaja is a match made in heaven. Thick slices of brinjal, marinated in turmeric and salt, are deep fried till golden for a crisp and smoky texture. For fish lovers, begun bhaja can be replaced with a thick slice of ilish, fried following the same process. Expert insight: Khichuri-mach bhaja (fried fish) or khichuri-begun bhaja combos are easily available at any Bengali restaurant. If you do not feel like cooking, simply order online through food delivery apps. 3. Shorshe Ilish - Monsoon's Crown Jewel Hilsa, rightly referred to as the queen fish, is cooked in a bold mustard gravy with green chillies and mustard oil. The dish is iconic, indulgent, and deeply rooted in Bengali culinary tradition. Expert insight: Although available year-round at Bengali restaurants, try the fresh monsoon catch to enjoy the buttery flavour at its best. Cook some rice at home, order shorshe ilish online, and have a hearty lunch. Why is hilsa eaten in monsoon in Bengal? Hilsa migrates from the sea to the rivers during the monsoon to spawn, making this the season when the fish is at its fattest, juiciest, and most flavourful form. Bengalis relish the soft, buttery flesh and delicate aroma that is at its peak during this time of the year. How to cook shorshe ilish at home? Grind fresh mustard seeds with green chillies into a smooth paste. Marinate hilsa pieces with turmeric and salt. In mustard oil, add the paste with a bit of water, season with salt, and simmer the fish till just cooked. The key is not to overcook the fish. Click here for the detailed recipe of sorshe ilish. 4. Taler Bora - The Sweet Fritters With Festive Flair Made from ripe sugar palm pulp, coconut, wheat flour, and jaggery, taler bora is deep fried till golden and chewy. Traditionally made during Janmashtami, it is a monsoon delicacy that bridges rural nostalgia and urban indulgence. How is taler bora made during Janmashtami? The pulp of ripe sugar palm is extracted and strained. Then it is mixed with grated coconut, wheat flour, rice flour, and jaggery to form a thick batter. Finally, small portions are dropped into hot oil and fried till golden and crispy. Quick tip: Taler bora tastes best a day after frying when the flavours settle. 5. Peyaji And Alur Chop - The Rainy Day Essentials Chai and pakoda go hand in hand, and it is no different in Bengal. Across every street corner, stalls fry up hot, crispy peyaji (onion fritters) and alur chop (spiced potato patties). More often than not, there is a chai stall right next to the pakoda counter, making it the perfect stop for an evening snack. Which other Bengali snacks go best with tea in rainy season? Apart from peyaji and alur chop, favourites include beguni (brinjal fritters) and phuluri (gram flour fritters). Muri (puffed rice) is often eaten alongside to balance the oiliness and for a true street-style experience. 6. Kakrol Bhaja - For A Seasonal Bite It is teasel gourd, a quintessential monsoon vegetable, sliced into rounds, coated in rice flour or besan, and fried till crisp. Sometimes the kakrol is also stuffed with prawns or spiced coconut before frying, creating a perfect balance of texture and mild bitterness. Chef's tip: Double fry for added crispiness and serve immediately with rice and a dollop of ghee. What vegetables are in season in Bengal during monsoon? The vegetables that dominate the market during the rainy season are: Brinjal Pumpkin Teasel gourd (kakrol) Pointed gourd (parwal) Ridge gourd (jhinge) Ash gourd (chalkumro) Many leafy greens like pui shaak (Malabar spinach) and kolmi shaak (water spinach) also flourish in this season. However, it is always advised to clean these leafy greens with extra care during monsoon to avoid food contamination. 7. Macher Jhol With Seasonal Veggies - The Everyday Favourite A light fish curry made with rohu or katla, potatoes, tomatoes, pumpkin, and pointed gourd (parwal) is what Bengalis truly define as comfort food. Spiced with ginger, cumin powder, turmeric, and green chillies, it is gentle on the stomach and packed with seasonal goodness. Cooking tip: Cook with mustard oil for depth and aroma Serve with a wedge of lime to add a bright layer of flavour These recipes are not only about satisfying hunger but also about keeping traditions alive, passing them from one generation to the next. So, try some of them and experience a slice of what Bengal eats during monsoon.
Time of India
24-07-2025
- Time of India
A season of comfort: Monsoon menus get a conscious makeover
'It's a time when people often find joy in the culinary rituals' A rainy day calls for chai, pakoras, and indulgences that are warm and comforting. While pakoras and masala chai remain timeless, foodies are now also moving towards health-conscious comfort foods and healthier adaptations. Though nothing can beat a hot samosa chaat with masala chai on a rainy day, ramen bowls, Thai curries, dim sums, fusion dishes like miso khichdi, kimchi, and homemade pickles have found their way into monsoon menus. 'The monsoon season invites a kind of slow, sensory indulgence that's both nostalgic and comforting' Monsoon calls for indulgences that are warm, comforting, and full of flavor, says Chef Ravi Kant, Executive Chef from The LaLiT, New Delhi. 'We celebrate the season with our 'Hi-Chai' experience - a nostalgic yet luxe tea-time spread featuring crispy pakoras, soulful sandwiches, and aromatic teas - the perfect monsoon pairing. For something unique and indulgent, our signature ramen bowls at OKO are a must-try, offering a wholesome, umami-packed experience that feels like a warm hug on a rainy day,' shares the chef. 'It's a time when people often find joy in the culinary rituals - savoring hot chai with pakoras by a rainy window, roasting corn over an open flame, or devouring pungent and tart chaats,' adds Shivneet Pohoja, Executive Chef, ITC Maurya. 'Warm, spiced broths like rasam or light soups are not just meals but a way to feel grounded and cozy during the damp, overcast days,' shares Shivneet. At hotels, experiences are also curated to celebrate the season with culinary delights. 'From piping hot masala chai with assorted pakoras to seasonal treats like bhutta, spicy chaats, and even indulgent regional dishes like Maharashtrian misal pav or Bengali khichuri with begun bhaja, guests often enjoy these with a view of the rain-soaked gardens or from our cozy lounge overlooking the city,' points out Chef Rakesh Sethi, Corporate Executive Chef, South Asia, Radisson Hotel Group. 'There's been a marked evolution in preferences - from indulgent, fried comfort food to more mindful, balanced meals' Chefs share that they have seen a shift towards health-conscious comfort foods during monsoon. 'Today's diners are more discerning and informed than ever before. There's been a marked evolution in preferences - from indulgent, fried comfort food to more mindful, balanced meals. Diners now gravitate towards cuisines that offer both bold flavour profiles and health-forward ingredients. This has made Southeast Asian cuisine increasingly popular, thanks to its use of fresh herbs, lean proteins, minimal oil, and naturally gluten-free elements like rice noodles and broths. The modern palate is adventurous, seeking authenticity with a contemporary twist,' explains Chef Shekhar Kiroula, Executive Sous Chef, Le Meridien, New Delhi. While the essence of monsoon cravings remains the same - warm, spicy, and soothing - there's been a noticeable shift toward more mindful indulgences, points out Chef Rakesh Sethi. 'Guests today look for cleaner ingredients, regional twists, and sometimes even vegan or gluten-free options. For example, instead of deep-fried fritters, we now also offer air-fried jackfruit bites or millet tikkis with mint chutney. The focus has evolved from just comfort to comfort with consciousness,' he adds. "Air-fried versions of traditional snacks, fusion dishes like miso khichdi or ramen with Indian spices, and a rising preference for seasonal, gut-friendly preparations like kombucha, kimchi, and homemade pickles have found their way into monsoon menus," says Shivneet Pohoja, Executive Chef, ITC Maurya. Need a comforting monsoon recipe? For a quick and comforting monsoon recipe, a Thai-style stir-fry makes for a brilliant choice Simply heat sesame oil in a wok, add chopped garlic, red chili, and Thai basil, and toss in your preferred protein or vegetables Season with light soy sauce and a splash of tamarind or lime juice for that signature tang Serve it hot over jasmine rice or rice noodles. It's hearty, vibrant, and ready in under 15 minutes - a perfect balance of speed, flavour, and soul. - Chef Shekhar Kiroula Add seasonal immunity-boosting ingredients like ginger, turmeric & garlic in your recipes Seasonal immunity-boosting ingredients like ginger, turmeric, garlic, and citrus are essential during monsoon. They pair beautifully with broths. 'We incorporate fresh Asian greens, mushrooms, and spices to create comforting bowls like ramen, making it a must-try indulgence for this season,' shares Chef Ravi Kant. Monsoon calls for ingredients that are warming yet easy on the digestive system. 'Ginger and turmeric, with their anti-inflammatory properties, are ideal for daily use, whether in teas, dals, or soups. Garlic, cumin, and black pepper not only add flavor but also aid digestion and help the body cope with increased humidity. Tulsi is a wonderful, soothing herb especially when brewed into tea. Millets or moong dal provide comfort in the form of warm, easy-to-digest meals like porridges,' advises Shivneet Pohoja, Executive Chef. "Seasonal fruits like jamun, papaya, and lychee are excellent, and herbs like ajwain and jeera can be added to warm teas or infused water to aid digestion," shares Chef Rakesh Sethi. Avni Tripathi, CMO, Aahana Resort, says, "Monsoon at Aahana is a celebration of harvest. It's the season of mangoes from nearby farms, water apples picked fresh from our trees, and garden herbs like mint and chillies that thrive in the rain. We grow a variety of vegetables during this time - bitter gourd, beetroot, okra, amaranth, and tomatoes. Our kitchen leans into these flavours to craft deeply comforting dishes. Think bhindi do pyaza made with just-harvested okra, beetroot burgers with mint chutney, or a warm bowl of kaddu sabzi served with amaranth rotis. These seasonal touches add a quiet richness to every meal, reminding guests that nature sets the menu. Our kitchen shifts with the season, focusing on ingredients that naturally support digestion and immunity. Staples like Jakhiya (cleome seeds), Madua (finger millet), Bhatt ki dal (black soybean), Buransh (rhododendron), Pahadi Lahsun (mountain garlic), and Jhangora (barnyard millet) are thoughtfully used across dishes."
Mint
18-07-2025
- Mint
What India cooks during the monsoon
The monsoon is a season of contrasts. The overcast skies make way for hope of a bountiful harvest. Paddy fields get a lush makeover, and wild greens spring up out of nowhere in the mountains. On the coast, life takes a turn when the southwesterlies arrive nudging the fishermen to return home, and stock up on supplies to brave the wet months. Between abundance and scarcity, culinary action peaks during the monsoon, showcasing the endless possibilities that seasonal produce offers. Lounge speaks to cookbook authors, chefs, restaurateurs, food growers, fermenters and researchers across the country, about their favourite monsoon ingredients, especially those that evoke memories of another time. We have also curated some recipes for you to cook, especially when the incessant rain gets too much to bear. Give them a shot, won't you? AMRITA BHATTACHARYA CULINARY RESEARCHER & CHEF, BOLPUR, WEST BENGAL Although Bengalis sing paeans about ilish or hilsa (my favourite too), I am equally excited about various types of fruits and uncultivated greens growing on our farm in Bolpur. I have vivid memories of picking kamranga or star fruit while studying on the Santiniketan campus. We never really allowed them to ripen, which is why I always thought it was sour. When I grew up, I discovered that it had a lovely sweet profile. The best way to enjoy it is as a maakha, by slicing the fruit and tossing it with cumin and red chilli powder, or adding some kashundi (fermented mustard relish) for that extra zing. I also make a dish of small river fish or prawns with it. We have kamranga growing in abundance right now, allowing everyone their share in the ecosystem, from birds to insects and bats. KAMRANGA-R AMISH AMBOL (prawn curry with star fruit) Ingredients 2 star fruits (kamranga) 1 small ball of ripe tamarind 200g small shrimp/prawns Half tsp black mustard seeds 1-2 dried red chillies Salt to taste Turmeric powder A small piece of jaggery (or sugar) A pinch of red chilli powder 1-2 tbsp oil Method Slice the star fruits and set aside. Soak the tamarind in water, extract the pulp and keep it ready. Clean the shrimps, marinate with salt and turmeric and lightly sauté them. Set aside. Heat oil in a pan. Once hot, temper with mustard seeds and dried red chillies. Add the tamarind water, salt, turmeric and red chilli powder. Let it come to a boil. Add the jaggery and star fruit slices. Simmer for a few minutes. Add the shrimps and cook for 2-3 minutes, avoid overcooking. Remove from heat and let it cool to room temperature. Serve with hot rice. SHRADDHA ADHIKARI CO-FOUNDER, MOHRAAN FARMS, SAKURLI, MAHARASHTRA My family runs a food forest and a farm stay in Sakurli. This land was purchased by my father-in-law—a former teacher from Mumbai—around 40 years ago, and he planted several fruit trees. In 2020, we moved into the farm and started working with the indigenous communities such as the Thakars to understand their knowledge systems, and ways of naturally regenerating a food forest. We have a mix of plants—cultivated seasonal and perennials, which yield food every year, and uncultivated seasonal and perennial wild varieties, which grow without human intervention. During the monsoon, we forage for several wild varieties such as the tender shoots of moringa and colocasia. The Malabar spinach also grows very well in the rains, which is cooked as a bhaji. Whenever we come across new veggies, we try it several times with different cooking methods to understand their nature. Only after that do we cook them for the guests. The most important thing is identification and mindful harvesting so that these ingredients are available to the next generation of communities, who are the original custodians of the land. We now know when to take the tender shoots of a plant or some part of the tuber. You need to be careful while cooking these as well. Some might be too bitter, sour or toxic. Take, for instance, the shevala, which needs to be cooked with another wild vegetable like kakad and a souring agent to make it palatable. These days, we are cooking dinda, or the Leea microphylla, with dry fish and coconut. Though this tree is a perennial variety, its tender shoots and flowers appear only during the rains. We forage for these and serve it with a rice bhakri or as a side dish. WILD DINDA LEAVES WITH DRY PRAWNS Ingredients I large bunch of tender dinda leaves 1 big bowl of dry prawns or any dry fish 2 large onions, roughly chopped Half cup of dry coconut (grated and roasted in 1 tsp oil) A handful of peanuts 1 tsp of red chilli powder Half tsp turmeric powder Salt to taste Half tsp cumin seeds Half tsp mustard seeds 2-3 tbsp of oil Method Wash the tender dinda leaves thoroughly. Roughly chop and boil them along with peanuts in a pot with little water for about 10 minutes, until slightly tender. Roast the grated dry coconut in a spoonful of oil until golden, grind it coarsely in a mixer and set aside. In a heavy-bottomed pan, heat 2–3 tbsp of oil. Add mustard seeds and cumin seeds. Let them splutter. Add the chopped onions and sauté until light golden. Mix in red chilli powder, turmeric, and salt. Add the washed dry prawns and sauté for a couple of minutes. Add the boiled dinda leaves and peanuts to the pan. Stir well. Now add the ground roasted coconut and mix. Cook on low heat for another 10 minutes, allowing all the flavours to come together. ADITHYA KIDAMBI CO-FOUNDER, MOSSANT FERMENTARY, BENGALURU At every kitchen I've been part of, pumpkin has found a permanent home on the menu. It's a humble ingredient but its versatility and warmth make it a chef's favourite—especially during the monsoon. At our restaurant, we celebrate it through a curried pumpkin rissois: velvety, spiced pumpkin tucked into crisp, golden pockets. One of my all-time favourite combinations is roasted pumpkin with goat cheese, garlic, burnt butter, and toasted walnuts. There's something deeply comforting about the earthy sweetness of pumpkin meeting the tang of goat cheese and the nuttiness of brown butter. The crunch of walnuts brings it all together with a satisfying contrast. Whether in a European-style preparation or infused with Indian spices, pumpkin always delivers—rich, nostalgic and grounding. It's more than seasonal, it's soulful. And as the rain drums on the roof, few things feel as right as a dish built around this golden, generous vegetable. NAMBIE JESSICA MARAK CHEF & FOOD CONSULTANT, WEST KHASI HILLS DISTRICT, MEGHALAYA In my small village of Upper Rangsa in West Khasi Hills in Meghalaya, rain brings a variety of native greens and vegetables. One of my favourite things to eat is bamboo shoots, which we never buy from the markets but forage for during this time of the year. We enjoy them fresh and preserve the excess for the rest of the year. The recipes are very simple; we eat them mostly as a stir-fry or with dried fish or in dals with bare minimum spices. Every year, I look forward to masoor dal which my mum makes with fresh shoots. Back in the village, we also harvest them, and gather around in circles, to preserve the young shoots. The elders use the edges of a steel tumbler to chop them into big chunks and put them in big jars. It's a fun sight as everyone is in sync, making a unique melody of the chopping sound. By winter, my mum brings out her jars and pickles them, and it's something I have not mastered yet. STIR-FRIED BAMBOO SHOOTS Ingredients 1 cup fresh bamboo shoots, thinly sliced 1 tbsp mustard oil 1 tsp ginger-garlic paste 2–3 dried red chillies, adjust to taste One-fourth tsp turmeric powder Water to boil Salt Method Thinly slice the bamboo shoots. Boil in plenty of water with a little salt for 8–10 minutes to remove its raw smell and bitterness. Strain and keep aside. Heat mustard oil in a pan. Add ginger-garlic paste and fry for a few seconds. Toss in the dried red chillies and a pinch of turmeric. Add the strained bamboo shoot slices and stir well, letting everything come together for 2–3 minutes. Serve hot with steamed rice or rotis. POOJA PANGTEY FOOD RESEARCHER & FERMENTER, KARJAT, MAHARASHTRA There are a bunch of monsoon ingredients that I miss from back home in Uttarakhand, especially when I get chai-pakoda cravings. One of them is jarag or Indian pokeweed (Phytolacca acinosa), a wild edible plant. The tender leaves are used to make crispy pakodas. There's phaphar, buckwheat greens or Himalayan tartary buckwheat that grows at higher altitudes, and bhaangjeera, or perilla/shiso leaves. They are all eaten as fried snacks when it is raining in the mountains, or as saag. We also mill the flour of phaphar to make sweet fritters called chunni. My monsoon memories are also incomplete without lingura or fiddlehead ferns that grow around water bodies and in moist soil. The fronds are cleaned and a simple subzi is prepared by stir-frying them. We also make achar. I have lacto-fermented lingura, and it turned out great. PHAPHAR CHUNNI Ingredients 6 tbsp phaphar (Himalayan tartary buckwheat) flour* 3-4 tsp sugar Water Bhangjeera (shiso/perilla) leaves** Neutral oil for frying Method Sift the flour. Add sugar and water to make a thick batter. Add water in parts to achieve a batter consistency similar to a pancake batter. Whisk gently and air the batter by raising and lowering your spoon in tender, quick motions. Leave the batter aside for 20-30 minutes. Wash your leaves and pat them dry. Heat oil in a kadhai. Softly coat the leaves in the batter. We want the chunni to be crispy, so avoid piling on too thick a coating. Then drop the battered leaves in the hot oil. Drop 3-4 or more leaves together, and wait till one side is done. Stirring them too much can make them oily. Flip them to get the other side done, and then take them out on a bowl/plate laid with paper towels. Best enjoyed on a rainy day with some hot chai made with fresh ginger and ground pepper. *You could also use kuttu (common buckwheat) flour. **Substitute the bhangjeera leaves with any monsoon leafy greens (gourd/ajwain leaves) available where you live. ABHISHEK JOSHI CHEF & CO-FOUNDER, WE IDLIWALE/WE IDLIWALE BARROOM, PUNE Shevala or dragon stalk yam is something that I immensely love and have grown up eating in Kalyan, Maharashtra. It's an ingredient that has a very short window, and is available for a maximum of three weeks. As a kid, it was the only vegetable that got me excited because it'd be cooked with prawns or meat. Since my father is Maharashtrian Brahmin, we didn't really cook non-vegetarian food at home, although eventually we did as I grew up. My mother, on the other hand, belongs to the Sonar community, which bears close resemblance to the Pathare Prabhus when it comes to the cuisine. She prepares shevala in two ways— with karandi, or tiny prawns in a coconut milk-based curry, and with mutton keema. I always fail to describe the exact flavour of the dish, but my memories of the whole sequence of procuring shevala from the markets, and the family sitting together to clean and then cook it, evokes strong emotions. DEEPIKA SETHI CO-FOUNDER, BRIGHT HOSPITALITY, DELHI Delhi's monsoon doesn't always get the love it deserves—but for me, it's always been special. I grew up in Patel Nagar, and at my parent's quintessential Punjabi home, the first showers were always welcomed with puas—sweet, fried delights that instantly made the house smell of celebration. But my personal favourite was a little less traditional—deep-fried bread with a generous spoonful of baked beans on top. Not something you'd find in a recipe book, but woven tightly into our family's rainy-day rituals. Of course, there were always pakodas of every kind, but nothing would beat bread pakodas, served with hot and sweet sauce. At Ikk Panjab chain of restaurants, which celebrates the spirit of homes from pre-Partition Punjab, we serve Jalandhari dal pakodas, which are perfectly synced with the spirit of the monsoon. JALANDHARI DAL PAKODE Ingredients 1 cup green moong dal (chilka) One-fourth cup gram flour Half tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp red chilli powder Half teaspoon yellow chilli powder 1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves 1 tbsp sliced onion 1-2 green chillies, finely chopped Salt to taste Water (for soaking and grinding) Oil for deep frying Method Rinse the dal well and soak for about 2-3 hours. Drain and grind coarsely in a blender with minimal water. The consistency should be thick, not smooth. Transfer the ground dal to a mixing bowl. Add cumin seeds, yellow and red chilli powders, green chilies, coriander leaves, sliced onions and salt. Mix well. Heat enough oil in a deep pan over medium heat. Take small portions of the batter and drop them into the hot oil. Fry in batches, without overcrowding the pan. The pakodas should be golden and crispy. ROHIT KASUGANTI CEO & FOUNDER, TSK FOOD WORKS, HYDERABAD As a small boy, I'd spend the whole day in the fields, walking barefoot, hands muddy, chasing that mix of freedom and fatigue that only village life gives you during the rains. One ingredient I associate with it is corn, and it came from our farms in Yellapur in Warangal district in Telangana. In the evening, ammamma, my grandmother, would have the coals burning to roast the fresh cobs. She'd also make makka garelu, or crispy corn fritters. I remember eating 15 -20 of them at one go. We've brought these memories into the Terrāi kitchen, where the fritters are fried just like my grandmother's, and paired with either a drizzle of spiced milk reduction or a side of naatu kodi shorwa, a peppery country chicken curry that nods to those rainy evenings in Yellapur. MAKKA GARELU Ingredients 2 cups fresh corn kernels 2 green chillies, finely chopped 1 tsp ginger, grated 8-10 curry leaves, chopped 1 tsp cumin seeds 2 -3 tbsp rice flour (for binding) Salt Oil Method Coarsely grind the corn kernels in a mixie, just a few pulses. Do not make it into a fine paste. Combine the crushed corn with green chillies, ginger, curry leaves, cumin, salt, and rice flour. If the mix is too loose, add a little more rice flour to bind. The mixture should hold shape when patted. Wet your hands or take a banana leaf. Take a lemon-sized portion of the batter, flatten it gently into a disc (roughly 2 inches wide, half-inch thick), and poke a tiny hole in the centre, this helps it cook evenly, like a doughnut. Heat oil. Once hot (test with a small drop, it should sizzle), gently slide in the garelu. Fry in batches on medium flame until crisp and golden on both sides. Drain on paper towels. Enjoy them hot. SAEE KORANNE-KHANDEKAR COOKBOOK AUTHOR & CULINARY CONSULTANT, MUMBAI I look forward to the monsoon because it brings to us a small window to enjoy stone fruit. People on the west coast start mourning the end of mango season, but there is such a plethora of opportunities with stone fruit, I wish people would see it. As children, my brother and I were perpetually biting into vibrant pink-purple Indian plums, their juices running to our elbows. Peaches are another Achilles heel. I enjoy them on their own, grilled and added to salads, or baked in desserts. Apricots get made into my annual jam as do plums (I also make a sweet and savoury chutney with plums and a panchphoron tempering). And I enjoy eating cherries and lychees as snacks. I wonder if, more often than not, we look at fruit from a blinkered lens, and tend not to experiment with their savoury avatars—fresh, fully ripe apricots work beautifully with mutton in a spiced curry, semi-ripe apricots and walnuts are ground to a spicy chutney with bright chilies in Uttarakhand, and so on. Since I am particularly partial to the sweet-sour-hot flavour profile, these fruits excite me a fair bit. APRICOT ALMOND CAKE Ingredients 4 eggs at room temperature Three-fourth cup deseeded and quartered fresh apricots 120g plain flour (maida) 80g ground whole almonds 1 tsp baking powder Grated zest of one lime or half an orange 100g ricotta at room temperature (or one-fourth cup full fat paneer) 80g butter at room temperature 200g castor sugar Half tsp pure vanilla paste or 1 tsp pure vanilla extract One-fourth cup almond flakes Icing sugar for dusting Method Sieve the plain flour into a mixing bowl. To this, add the ground almonds, baking powder, and lime zest. Whisk to combine and set aside. In a stand mixer or blender, place the butter, ricotta and castor sugar, and beat until pale. Add the eggs and beat well; don't worry if the mixture looks curdled, it will come together. Add the vanilla and beat again to combine. If using a stand mixer, spoon in the flour mix a little at a time and beat on low speed. If using a blender, add the egg mix to the bowl of the flour mix and fold slowly. Pour into a greased and lined tin (I use an 8-inch round tin) and top with apricots and flaked almonds. Bake in a preheated oven at 170 degrees Celsius on the middle rack for 1 hour or until a skewer inserted in the centre comes out clean. Invert on to a serving dish and dust with icing sugar. Serve warm or at room temperature with tea/coffee or as a dessert with vanilla ice cream. GAYTRI BHATIA FOUNDER, VRINDAVAN FARM, PALGHAR, MAHARASHTRA The word 'foraged" carries a certain romantic notion with it. Maybe it evokes a link to our hunter-gatherer roots. For forest-dwelling communities in and around Palghar (that the Vrindavan Farm works with), this is not an imagined scenario—even now, foraging is a way of living. A little over a month into the monsoon, we're standing in ankle-deep water, feet planted on mushy soil, unearthing seedlings of rice. We glimpse a shiny reddish-black back in the waters, before a creature makes a series of quick side-scurries. Excited chatter ensues. In seconds it has been decided which home, among those present, would cook crab that night, and the hunt begins. A couple of teak leaves are twined into a bucket, which is quickly filled with crabs. Through years of working with the masters of the forest, I have come to understand the deeply-rooted and unspoken principles of foraging. Each field is only visited once by the humans during the time of transplant. The crabs caught during this single event turn into a meal. Mature crabs have voracious appetites. They tend to chomp down on the rice grasses that populate the field. The harvest of crabs brings balance—allowing time for the rice to grow and be useful to man, while leaving enough crab to ensure continuity in the ecosystem. The principles of sustainable harvests and balance in nature have been woven within the fabric of foraging since antiquity by community elders. We need deep lenses that go beyond our immediate desire for an offbeat meal as we approach the forests for food. Arriving during early monsoon in our forests is Dina, or Leea macrophylla. It is a perennial typically seen in the understory of secondary forests or man-made meadows. The stalks are harvested while tender, leaving the tuberous roots in place for the subsequent monsoon. The thread-like strains are peeled off the stalks before cooking. WILD DINA Ingredients A few stalks of Dina Groundnut oil Mango vinegar Finely chopped garlic Mango hot sauce Salt and pepper to taste Method Warm the oil and sauté the garlic until brown. Chop the prepared Dina into bite-sized pieces and add to the pan. Sauté for a few moments until its colour changes, then cover and steam. Drizzle some home-made vinegar and groundnut oil, and season with salt and pepper. If you're a fan of heat, drizzle in some aged mango hot sauce. Dina pairs well with native red rice mahadi. Compiled by Rituparna Roy, Avantika Bhuyan and Shrabonti Bagchi
