From Bvlgari to Cartier, Tiffany & Co and more: A look at this season's key high jewellery releases

CNA

13 hours ago

In 2025, seven maisons embrace bold storytelling, audacious design, and technical brilliance in their latest high jewellery collections that blur the line between art and adornment.
Bvlgari dazzles with chromatic maximalism in its most ambitious offering yet, while Cartier explores the poetry of balance and tension through sculptural finesse. Dior channels its founder's romantic spirit into whimsical dreamscapes, and Tiffany & Co dives into the ocean's depths with a marine-inspired spectacle.
Although each maison tells a distinct story, all are united by a shared pursuit: to push the boundaries of creativity.
BVLGARI
Comprising 250 high jewellery creations, 60 of which are classified as 'millionaire products', Polychroma is Bvlgari's most ambitious collection to date. A dazzling array of 65 different gemstones, cut into over a dozen shapes, brings bold exuberance to the line. But Polychroma is more than a jewellery collection, it's a full-fledged lifestyle universe that extends to one-of-a-kind handbags, eyewear, and even fragrances adorned with gold, diamonds, and precious stones.
At the heart of Polychroma lies the Gallery of Wonders, an ensemble of five masterpieces that embody Bvlgari's chromatic brilliance and Roman audacity. Among them, the Cosmic Vault necklace stuns with a 123.35-carat sugarloaf sapphire from Sri Lanka that evokes the legendary piece once worn by Elizabeth Taylor. The Celestial Mosaic necklace, inspired by the Tree of Life in Jericho, is centred around a 131.21-carat spinel from Tajikistan – the fourth largest spinel in the world. Polychromatic Bloom, a bold tribute to nature, features a phenomenal trio of vivid gems comprising a 106.36-carat rubellite, 55.52-carat peridot, and 55.11-carat tanzanite.
Rounding things off are the Essence of Yellow Trombino ring, which showcases a dazzling 45-carat fancy vivid yellow diamond, and the Magnus Emerald necklace, which flaunts a monumental 241.06-carat Colombian emerald, the largest ever used in Bvlgari's history.
CARTIER
Unveiled recently in Stockholm, Cartier's latest high jewellery collection, En Equilibre, is a poetic study of tension and movement. French for 'In Balance', En Equilibre explores the delicate harmony between fullness and void, symmetry and asymmetry, restraint and radiance. Crafted over 100,000 hours by Cartier's master artisans, En Equilibre exemplifies the maison's architectural vision and technical finesse, where every stone appears suspended in a state of elegant equilibrium.
Among the highlights is the Shito necklace, where a pair of 49.37-carat Zambian emerald drops anchor an asymmetrical silhouette. Set on platinum and framed by pear-shaped diamonds, the piece is a feat of discreet engineering as even its clasp is hidden within the elegant X-shaped motif. The Hyala necklace, featuring a 5.71-carat oval-cut diamond pendant, showcases an airy, web-like quality, thanks to the delicate rose gold workmanship that creates the impression of stones set directly onto the skin.
Cartier's signature animal motifs also take centre stage. Panthere Dentelee reimagines the house's iconic big cat in lace-like openwork white gold, layered over strands of Colombian emerald beads.
The Panthere Orbitale sets the sleek feline atop a coral cabochon surrounded by amethysts and onyx, striking a bold contrast in form and texture. The Tsagaan necklace evokes the elusive snow leopard through interwoven geometric motifs set with kite-, lozenge- and triangle-cut diamonds accentuated by onyx accents. A trompe-l'oeil effect renders the feline's head visible or hidden, depending on the viewing angle. Other standouts include the transformable Pavocelle necklace featuring an incredible 58.08-carat Ceylon sapphire, and Traforato, a dramatic, optical wonder in black, white, and green.
CHAUMET
Chaumet's latest high jewellery capsule collection, Bamboo, is a striking ode to nature, crafted with symbolic reverence and artistic precision. This 10-piece graphic parure pays homage to Asia's revered flora, capturing its upright elegance, strength, and supple resilience in shimmering gold and precious stones.
A continuation of Chaumet's 240-year tradition as a peerless naturalist jeweller, this collection surprises by placing the underexplored motif of bamboo – symbolic of integrity and prosperity – at the heart of its contemporary aesthetic. A key piece is the bib necklace, where yellow and white gold branches cascade in a plunging V-shaped silhouette, centred around a 13.19-carat black Australian opal and 12.91-carat tsavorite garnet. The creation's dynamic articulation lends a lifelike fluidity, a testament to Chaumet's savoir-faire.
Three bold brooches offer versatility, with transformable elements and flowing diamond bands, while the rings highlight the capsule's slender silhouette, showcasing tsavorite garnets and opals in refined harmony. A regal tiara completes the set – an abstract crown where engraved foliage dances with light, echoing the momentum of growing bamboo.
DIOR
The French maison presents the Diorexquis haute joaillerie collection, which celebrates the legacy and passions of Monsieur Dior through the visionary lens of Dior Joaillerie's artistic director, Victoire de Castellane. This new chapter unfolds as a triptych of themes central to the house's identity: magical galas, blooming bouquets, and enchanting landscapes.
Each piece in the collection is a meticulously composed scene that evokes the passage of time and changing seasons. Icy winter splendour gives way to the exuberance of spring flora, culminating in the luminous joy of summer light, all expressed through an interplay of gemstones layered over mineral backdrops hemmed in diamonds. Dior's mastery of craft shines through in techniques such as the opale doublet, where layers of opal are mounted on mother-of-pearl or onyx to create ethereal, watery hues.
The plique-a-jour technique further elevates the high jewellery pieces, using Dior Joaillerie's signature lacquer to create miniature stained-glass windows that allow light to stream through clusters of sparkling colours.
FRED
Nearly 90 years after Fred Samuel founded his namesake maison, Fred reaffirms its legacy as The Sunshine Jeweller with a new high jewellery collection spanning two chapters, 1936 and Soleil d'Or Sunrise. Comprising 19 creations, the house captures the spirit of light, colour, and movement that defined its visionary founder's designs.
Paying tribute to the year the house was established, the 1936 chapter sees a total of 10 pieces featuring a trio of gemstones and pearls channel Samuel's contemporary flair and love for transformable, dynamic designs. Architectural curves nod to the original boutique on Rue Royale in Paris, with sweeping lines and interlacing arches that evoke light in motion.
The Colombian emerald suite features a necklace with a central stone of over four carats nestled in an upturned arch, accompanied by matching earrings and a ring. Next, Sri Lankan sapphire pieces include an elegant necklace elevated by a 7.13-carat royal blue stone, earrings, and ring flaunting a sapphire over six carats. Meanwhile, the Mozambique ruby collection blazes with a supple choker necklace, ring, and earrings displaying intense pigeon blood hues, while cultured Akoya pearls grace a long necklace with interlacing diamond-pave arches.
In Soleil d'Or Sunrise, the house honours its most iconic stone, the 105.54-carat Soleil d'Or yellow diamond, through nine contemporary pieces designed for everyday wear. A striking bib necklace features a central 2-carat fancy intense yellow diamond. Transformable diamond rings and earrings in yellow and white gold allow multiple style options, while a matching brooch completes the solar-inspired collection.
LOUIS VUITTON
The Louis Vuitton Virtuosity High Jewelry collection is a spectacular showcase of savoir-faire and liberated creativity presented in 110 one-of-a-kind pieces across 12 evocative themes. Conceived as a two-part journey, from The World of Mastery to The World of Creativity, it pays tribute to the maison's codes, while fearlessly transcending them.
The World of Mastery is anchored in technical excellence and traditional savoir-faire. The journey begins with Savoir, a theme built around secret knowledge and symbolised by a powerful 30.56-carat triangle-cut Australian black opal, paired with a 28.01-carat emerald.
In Maestria, a sculptural high-collar necklace fuses white and yellow gold with three Colombian emeralds and over 2,500 diamonds, a feat that took 2,730 hours to perfect. The crescendo comes in the Apogee, where Louis Vuitton's trunk-making heritage meets modern brilliance in a transformable necklace starring a 30.75-carat Brazilian pear-cut emerald and 10.56-carat LV Monogram Star-cut diamond.
As the collection transitions through Connection – a diamond-and-pearl necklace woven like a second skin – it opens the door to The World of Creativity, where imagination is unchained. Motion flows with Sri Lankan sapphires in undulating waves, while Florescence blooms in vivid tourmalines, LV Monogram Star-cut diamonds, and pearls. Joy embraces colour in jubilant yellow gold, its stones shifting in hue and volume. Aura follows with ethereal pink tourmalines, interpreted through the maison's iconic flower motif.
The crowning achievement of the collection, Eternal Sun, embodies the pinnacle of creative liberation. Showcasing an extraordinary ensemble of 27 rare, round yellow diamonds totalling 46.13 carats – painstakingly sourced over seven years – this masterpiece glows with golden intensity. Set in gold spirals, the necklace can be worn in six ways with its central 14-carat yellow diamond ingeniously designed to detach and transform into a statement ring, underscoring the maison's technical brilliance and imaginative flair.
TIFFANY & CO
The American jeweller dives into the ocean's depths with Blue Book 2025: Sea of Wonder, a high jewellery collection that captures the allure, motion, and mystery of the sea through exquisitely crafted masterpieces. Designed by the house's chief artistic officer Nathalie Verdeille, this new collection presents a surreal journey from figurative to abstract, drawing inspiration from Jean Schlumberger's legendary aquatic designs.
The collection transforms the boundless variety of oceanic flora and fauna into an ethereal wonderland, featuring a colour palette that mirrors iridescent underwater light and bioluminescent creatures. Six distinct chapters explore different marine motifs, each reimagining the beauty of the deep through a contemporary lens.
Seahorse opens the collection with a tribute to Schlumberger's 1968 brooches, reimagined with over 11 carats of unenhanced purple sapphires, moonstones, and diamonds. Sea Turtle creations combine diamond-rich shapes with intricate gold details, highlighting the geometry of turtle shells through meticulously engraved designs. A transformable pendant captures the creature's versatility, converting from necklace to brooch.
Ocean Flora blooms with marine plant life, featuring exceptional unenhanced Zambian emeralds that appear to float above waves of diamonds. Taking artisans about 1,500 hours to complete, the chapter's key piece is an exquisite necklace that flaunts five matched emeralds totalling over 10 carats alongside 1,351 round brilliant diamonds exceeding 44 carats.
The Starfish chapter glows with over four carats of rare unenhanced rubies from Mozambique, accented by brilliant diamonds, while Urchin pieces juxtapose sublime yellow diamonds with twisted gold rope inspired by Schlumberger's iconic 1961 sea urchin-inspired table clock. The collection culminates with the Wave chapter, where articulated pieces capture dramatic ocean movement through blue and green cuprian elbaite tourmalines totalling over 17 carats.