Trendy sandwich shops, please step away from the focaccia

The Herald Scotland

18-06-2025

It's a dream for dipping, the springy texture acting as a dense sponge for whatever form of pasta sauce or salad dressing might be lingering on your plate after a meal.
And more than once, I've been guilty of polishing off a slice meant for the dinner table before even making it home from a trip to my favourite bakery down the road.
But dear goodness, do I wish trendy cafes and takeaway spots would stop using this characterful bread as the vessel for their sandwich fillings.
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If you're familiar with our Lunch Review series that has been running since the start of this year, you'll know that I've encountered my fair share of TikTok-famous spots and promising new openings.
And while almost all of them have impressed in their own way, after a few months in the game now can't help but sigh when I see a layer of filling squashed between two thick wedges of focaccia.
First up, I know fine well that there will be no dignified way to eat this sandwich in public. Most of the time, it's difficult to even get a decent bite out of these monster creations, let alone avoid bits of meat, cheese or salad spilling out onto the table below.
This inevitably happens just as you've locked eyes with a fellow diner or staff member, who is now just as embarrassed about the whole situation as you are.
And that slick and salty surface layer, usually one of the best bits of focaccia, becomes an unwelcome distraction when each mouthful of your lunch is saturated with oil. Heaven help you if there's not a ready supply of napkins nearby to deal with your now greasy hands.
But more than that, a hill I will die on is that there is simply no need to choose a bread that will steal the spotlight from your sandwich menu. There's just too much dough for any filling, no matter how delicious, to contend with.
These days, I've taken to splitting a sandwich in half and leaving the lid if I suspect I won't be able to taste the middle layer: just know that as a carb lover, that hurts me deep in my soul.
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Of course, food trends come and go. Before this, it was the ubiquitous sourdough, which came with its own issues. Too soft to carry any sort of mayo or sauce without falling apart, and forming a rock-hard crust when toasted.
But surely it's common sense that a sandwich should be up to the task of being eaten on the go, without any risk of injuring your jaw or staining your shirt in the process.
As we enter a new era of our review series, moving from strictly casual lunch spots to a mix of tasting menus and evening bookings at restaurants across Scotland, I say goodbye to sandwich shops for now with a final plea.
Unless you're absolutely sure you can get those all-important ratios just right, please step away from the focaccia.
Pictured: Look out for a review of The Kirkmichael Arms published on Saturday morning (Image: Newsquest) The Saturday Review:
Keep your eyes peeled for our Saturday morning restaurant review, which this week takes us to the only Michelin Guide recognised spot in Ayrshire.
At this traditional country pub, there are more than a few pleasant surprises in store.
Missed last week's review?
Read more about a rocky start for the newly opened Yakitori Shack in Glasgow here: Distracted service and food lacking oomph: A bad start for new Glasgow restaurant