Hooking seafood

The Sun

2 days ago

FOR some foodies, good seafood is not just a dietary preference, it is a full-on lifestyle. Whether it is cracking open a juicy crab by the riverbanks of Seberang Perai, grazing through oysters and sashimi at a luxury KL buffet, or going hands-first into a saucy seafood mountain in Subang, Malaysia serves up more than enough to keep seafood lovers satisfied.
theSun visited three restaurants that approach seafood in completely different ways, but all with one thing in common: freshness, flavour and the kind of satisfaction only the ocean can bring.
Tambun Prawn Village
Set against the backdrop of Sungai Jawi, Tambun Prawn Village is a long-standing favourite in the Bukit Tambun area of Seberang Perai, Penang. Built on stilts and overlooking the river, it serves rustic Malaysian-Chinese seafood in a relaxed, open-air setting. Despite its modest appearance, the restaurant is often packed, especially on weekends and has earned a loyal following over its 35-year history.
We tried seven standout dishes that truly represented the best of what they offer. The Yam Ring featured a crisp taro basket filled with tofu balls glazed in sweet chilli sauce, a perfect balance of crunch and softness that set the tone for the meal. Next, the deep-fried squid arrived golden, crispy and tender inside, paired with a tangy chilli dip that added just enough heat.
The sour and spicy crab was easily the crowd favourite. Coated in a thick, sambal-style sauce, the crab meat was sweet and firm, with the gravy delivering the perfect balance of heat, sourness and umami. It is messy, yes – but worth the effort, especially when you add on fried mantou buns to mop up the sauce.
The baked tiger prawn with cheese leaned into decadence: prawns halved and blanketed in bubbling cheese, served on a bed of crispy vermicelli. The curry prawn with bread ring, a Penang-style classic, stole the show for its presentation alone, juicy prawns swimming in creamy, fragrant curry, encased in a hollowed-out round loaf of bread perfect for tearing and dipping.
We also sampled the murex shell (siput duri), served chilled with a green chilli dip. It is a bit of a novelty dish, where you extract the chewy shellfish with a toothpick and enjoy it with a hit of sharp, citrusy sauce. To round things out, the sambal mixed beans offered a fiery, flavour-packed vegetable side dish that balanced the richness of the seafood mains.
Prices for most dishes range between RM20 to RM80, with seafood priced by weight and clearly displayed. Service was friendly and efficient, and the riverside atmosphere added a charming,
laid-back vibe. For seafood lovers who want classic, wok-fried flavours and truly fresh seafood, Tambun Prawn Village is worth the detour.
Imperial Lexis Kuala Lumpur
If variety is what you are after, the SeaSational Weekend Dinner Buffet at Roselle Coffee House is your ticket to indulgence. Held every Friday, Saturday and eve of public holidays from 6pm to 10pm, this
seafood-forward spread is hosted at Imperial Lexis Kuala Lumpur, a sleek luxury hotel just steps from the vicinity of KLCC.
Priced at RM190 nett per adult and RM120 nett for senior citizens and children aged seven to 12, the buffet is worth it for the quality and quantity on offer. Upon entering, the first thing you see is the seafood on ice station, which feels like a curated ocean harvest. Plump lobsters, oysters, mussels, crab legs, scallops and tiger prawns are artfully arranged on crushed ice, replenished frequently to ensure freshness.
Adjacent to this is the Japanese counter, where you can fill your plate with beautifully sliced salmon sashimi, tobiko gunkan and a colourful array of maki rolls. The freshness of the raw selections was top-notch, rivalling speciality sushi spots around the city.
Among the rotating hot dishes, we enjoyed baked oysters with cheese, pan-seared scallops, salmon in citrus glaze and a flavourful seafood paella. There is also a noodle station and a cheese wheel pasta bar, where seafood pasta is tossed to order in a massive wheel of parmesan.
One unique feature was the kombucha tap bar, offering three house-made brews: Strawberry Rose, Mandarin Yuzu and Peach Jasmine. These light, tart beverages were a refreshing change from sugary sodas or heavy drinks.
Dessert was no afterthought either. Mini cheesecakes, mousse cups, tarts and local kuih were all presented with finesse. Even fruit lovers had plenty to choose from. The ambience on Level 8 is quietly elegant, with marble counters, plush seating and attentive staff that kept the experience running smoothly. For pescatarians looking to indulge in variety without sacrificing freshness, Roselle's buffet checks all the boxes: premium produce, stylish setting and great value for what you get.
Mafioso Shellaut
Over in Subang, Mafioso Shellaut brings a different kind of seafood experience: fun, affordable and gloriously messy. There are no plates or fancy cutlery here. Just a table covered in paper and a bucket of seafood, so you can dig right in.
This is a place built for sharing. We went for the Shellaut Set (RM50), meant for two people and were served a colourful heap of crab, tiger prawns, squid, mussels, clams and broccoli, all drenched in their popular buttermilk sauce.
The seafood was fresh, with springy prawns and tender squid, no overcooking in sight. The sauce was rich without being overwhelming, though spice lovers might want to try the lemak cili api or kam heong alternatives.
Even if the set is supposedly meant for two, the portion fed four comfortably with rice on the side. Add-ons such as fried tiger prawns or siput sedut, let you build a feast to suit your table. The atmosphere is laid-back and loud in the best way. We saw at least two birthday celebrations while dining, complete with balloons, cake and singing.
Staff were warm, fast-moving and happy to assist the customers when needed. It is not fancy, but that is the appeal. Mafioso Shellaut hits the sweet spot between price, portion and flavour. For diners who enjoy seafood without all the formalities, it is a casual crowd-pleaser that is easy on formalities but hits the spot with its flavours.