Review: Sirene by Gaia
And how does Sirene look to stand out in a sea of new beach clubs? Firstly, by being the world's largest – the sprawling space is part-restaurant, part-beach club, and the two are linked by whitewashed bars, a sparkling swimming pool, and a lounge arranged around a DJ booth where guests dine with their toes in the sand – it's all big, bold and beautiful. The neutral shades and endless white stone are laced with pops of colourful bougainvillaea in shades of cerise and orange – the whole aesthetic reminiscent of the oh-so-chic Cyclades.
There's plenty of nods to the original Gaia in DIFC – a fresh fish display, lovely neutral uniforms worn by the team, and plenty of big tables covered in crisp white tablecloths that ensure the air of sophistication remains, even at the beachfront. There's a more chilled vibe at the pool and beach, where plump loungers all gaze down towards the water; so if you're here for the party, be sure to book the restaurant. Under the cover of the indoor space, there are more tables for two and four, while the ones down towards the DJ booth are designed for bigger groups, but the indoor-outdoor spaces seamlessly blend, and all command striking views of the sea.
The menu isn't extensive, but there's lots we like the look of – starting with the bread, which arrives freshly baked and with a side of tangy tomato dip that's refreshing and light. We stick in familiar territory with the seabream carpaccio (Dhs225), and the fish is fresh and cut into slivers, served with a trio of dressings of fragrant truffle, zesty mandarin, and sour lemon, and each offers a complementary flavour. The Greek salad (Dhs135) is a generous glass bowl of neatly cut onion, cucumber and tomatoes, tossed in a traditional dressing and topped with a slab of barrel-aged feta that balances everything perfectly. From the mains, we opt for the king prawns and a sea bass (market price) cooked to order from the fresh fish display – the simple seasoning of olive oil and a squeeze of lemon lets the high-quality ingredients sing, and when paired with a bowl of crispy fries (Dhs50) and baked vegetables (Dhs50).
We make a late afternoon reservation, and even mid-week as we're ordering dessert (go for the fried Greek donuts (Dhs75), drizzled in a sweet honey), the music is turning up and magnums of chilled rosé begin to pour at tables around us. Guests start to migrate to the bars, lingering for sunset drinks as day turns to night.
Verdict: Go for the food, stay for the vibes.
Sirene by Gaia, J1 Beach, daily 10am to 1am. Tel: (0) 4 570 4766 . @sirene_dxb
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