Menorca's soulful second city that stays well out of the spotlight

Times

22-07-2025

Ease and elegance in equal measure: you could be talking about abarcas — Ciutadella's artisan-made slip-on sandals — or the vibe of the city itself. Above a pint-sized marina on Menorca's west coast, medieval fortifications cradle bougainvillea-clad baroque palaces and cobblestone lanes lined with independent boutiques and art galleries — all in the honey-rippled cream of local limestone marés.
The island's capital during Moorish rule, Ciutadella was relegated to second city status in 1714 by the Brits, who favoured Mahon's larger natural harbour. And it has happily stayed out of the spotlight ever since, dancing to a different beat (read: slower-paced, soulful) than its busier, party-loving Balearic neighbours.
At harbourside cafés, chic residents gather for sunset pomadas (Menorcan gin with lemon) after yacht trips to nearby coves. Listen out for locals chatting in Menorcan, a dialect of Catalan, and you might catch the phrase Vella i Bella ('Old and Beautiful') — their fitting nickname for Ciutadella.
• Morning Placa des Born• Eat at Es Tast De na Silvia• Afternoon Cathedral-Basilica of Saint Mary• Drink at Tap Room by Grahame Pearce• Evening Fundacio Numa• Eat at Café Balear
• Morning Lithica• Eat at Katu in Smoix• Afternoon Cala en Brut• Drink at Café Catedral• Evening Esparteria de Magi• Eat at Nonna Bazaar
• Menorca travel guide
● Get your bearings in Placa des Born, its central obelisk commemorating citizens who died trying to ward off 16th-century Ottoman invaders. Most of the imposing palaces around here were rebuilt after the siege, but behind the town hall there are remnants of medieval ramparts to clamber up for ocean views. Then you can delve into the Can Saura museum's archaeological displays to clue up on Menorca's earliest settlers (£4; ajciutadella.org).
● The influences of foreign conquerors are writ large on the Cathedral-Basilica of Saint Mary. Built on the site of a mosque, from when the city was called, in Arabic, al Manurqa, the belltower incorporates the original minaret. Fragments of the 14th-century Catalan gothic structure that survived the Turks' destruction can be glimpsed beneath the neoclassical exterior. The resident cat, Whitey, can often be seen slinking around the neighbouring cloisters and convent (£5.50; bisbatdemenorca.com).
● The latest gallery to emerge in Menorca's flourishing creative scene, Fundacio Numa is a small but perfectly formed hilltop mansion in the up-and-coming Sa Quintana neighbourhood. Explore the dreamy sculpture garden and two floors dedicated to temporary exhibitions, then continue to the rooftop for a stunning city panorama (£8; numamenorca.com)
● On the city outskirts, the abandoned quarry turned cultural site Lithica will give you a new appreciation of the raw materials used to craft the city's magnificent buildings. Wander through limestone labyrinths and pits that dramatically plunge 27m deep into the earth. Some sections have been turned into peaceful botanical gardens — quite the transformation (£5; lithica.es).
● One of Ciutadella's main selling points is its proximity to nature, so cross the harbour and follow the coastal path northwards to find a series of Mediterranean-lapped coves. The sandy shallows of Cala en Brut are a favourite for snorkelling and local kids take turns leaping off the sun-warmed rocks.
● Esparteria de Magi, run by a third-generation artisan, is one of the few places still making abarcas the authentic way, hand-stitched onto soles made from recycled car tyres; and weaving baskets from esparto grass, another traditional island craft. Watch the handiwork at the on-site studio before stocking up on sustainable souvenirs (Mon-Sat, 9am to 1.30pm and 5pm to 8pm; esparteriacanmagimenorca.com).
Es Tast De na Silvia shows off the abundance of fresh, seasonal ingredients that this tiny island can produce, from spring's sweet-and-sour loquat fruit to foraged mushrooms in autumn. Served inside a former chapel, many dishes feature heirloom grains sourced from the owner's family-run farm (mains from £13; hestastdenasilvia.com).
The name may not sound exotic, but the dinky Tap Room by Grahame Pearce on Placa del Merca brews craft beers uniquely flavoured with island botanicals including thyme and camomile. In the wood-beamed interior, regulars shoot the breeze with whomever's on the neighbouring bar stool. Curious about the anglophone name? It's a homage to the owner's British brewing mentor (half-pints from £2.50; grahamepearce.es).
Come sunset, bagging an alfresco table at Café Balear is a reason for serious smugness. This buzzy harbourfront spot serves superlative seafood caught by its very own boat; the lobster stew is the stuff of legend (mains from £21; baleargrup.com).
In the historic centre, sample a joyful meeting of Mexican and Mediterranean cuisine at Katu in Smoix. Miquel Sánchez, the chef, tops his tacos and tostadas with farm-grown veggies and there are great ceviches made with local seafood, as well as colourful salads and inventive mezcal-based cocktails (mains from £10; katurestaurante.com).
With its pot plants and raw plaster walls, Café Catedral makes an ideal boho-chic pitstop for an iced latte or fresh fruit smoothie between sightseeing; its beans are sourced from Mallorcan roastery Arabay. Grab a director's chair beneath the white awnings and soak up the basilica views from its street-corner location (coffee from £2.60; catedralmenorca.com).
Although Nonna Bazaar looks like a rural idyll — 1,000 acres of gardens and orchards — it's only an eight-minute taxi from the old town. And the atmosphere's far from sleepy at its farm-to-table, wood-fired suppers of mezze platters, pizzas and barbecued 30-day-aged Menorcan beef. It plays sets from the island's top DJs, so dancing after dessert is highly encouraged (mains from £16; nonnabazaar.com).
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• 14 of the best family hotels in Menorca
Best for biking and budgetsBehind its sunny yellow exterior, the Alfons has a light-filled lobby suited to the co-working crowd, a spacious fitness centre and smart, contemporary rooms. Its location, just steps outside the old town, makes it a savvy choice for visitors. Exploring the island on two wheels? An in-house Cycling Centre offers servicing and storage as well as rentals and tours (B&B doubles from £54; alfonshotel.com).
A grown-up hideaway As it's adults-only and television-free, calmness reigns at this bijou bolt hole, on a street leading off Placa des Born. There are just six beautifully designed rooms, all airy studies in Balearic minimalism, with their exposed stone walls, wood-beamed ceilings and natural fabrics. Sunbathe on the rooftop terrace or (if staying in a suite) your private patio (room-only doubles from £104; marosihotel.com).
Luxurious old-quarter oasisAt this Relais & Châteaux-approved charmer, rooms are spread across a trio of beautifully restored historic townhouses, each with its own lap pool. Arguably the best is Cal Bisbe, where the cathedral walls are close enough to touch. Seductive fashion photography and bespoke floral murals add flair to the classic interiors, courtesy of the hotel's Parisian owner, while a subterranean spa and jasmine-scented courtyard restaurant add to the sense of being in on a stylish secret (B&B doubles from £218; faustinogran.com).
British Airways, Tui, easyJet, Jet2 and Ryanair operate seasonal direct flights from various UK cities to Menorca Mahon airport. From there, it's a 50-minute drive to reach Ciutadella, or one hour and 30 minutes by coach via Mahon city centre. Ferries run from Barcelona to Ciutadella.
Most sights are walkable within this compact city, so there's no need to hire a car. And TMSA and Autocares Torres run regular bus services connecting Ciutadella to other towns and beaches across Menorca (tmsa.es, bus.e-torres.net).Estella Shardlow was a guest of Faustino Gran (faustinogran.com) and Menorca Turismo (menorca.es)
What are your favourite recommendations for Menorca? Let us know in the comments below