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It's Beni-dormant! Gleeful Spanish locals rejoice after seeing drop in Costa del Sol holidaymakers after years of anti-tourism protests - as pictures show half-empty restaurants

It's Beni-dormant! Gleeful Spanish locals rejoice after seeing drop in Costa del Sol holidaymakers after years of anti-tourism protests - as pictures show half-empty restaurants

Daily Mail​12 hours ago
It's Beni-dormant! Gleeful Spanish locals rejoice after seeing drop in Costa del Sol holidaymakers after years of anti-tourism protests - as pictures show half-empty restaurants
Gleeful Spanish locals are rejoicing after seeing a drop in the number of Costa Del Sol holidaymakers following years of angry anti-tourism demonstrations.
The holiday hotspot has recorded its first decline in visitors since the Covid-19 pandemic - with typically bustling destinations seemingly becoming far less-crowded.
Images from Benidorm taken in the last few days show empty chairs outside bars and restaurants - rare for this time of year when they are usually rammed with tourists.
The pictures follow mass protests across Spain where thousands have claimed excessive tourism is forcing locals out of affordable housing, raising the cost of living and making the city centres unusable.
Majorca has also seen a sharp decline in tourist numbers, with officials claiming that a relentless campaign of anti-tourist protests is 'scaring away visitors' as locals say some resorts are now 'completely dead'.
In Costa del Sol, the holiday rental sector saw a drop of 2.2% in tourist numbers during the first half of the year - a trend that has accelerated since March, when numbers hit a low of 57%, according to local paper Sur In English.
While the downturn has sparked concern among some local businesses, others see it as a welcome break after years of over tourism and have taken to social media to share their relief.
One person wrote: 'The news is painted as bad but the reality is that it's good. Tourism is fine but the tourist mass coming to Malaga was more than the city could handle. I'd rather take care of 10 tourists well than 100 bad.'
Gleeful Spanish locals are rejoicing after seeing a drop in the number of Costa Del Sol holidaymakers following years of angry anti-tourism demonstrations. Pictured: An empty bar a few days ago
An image taken of the same bar sharply contrasts with scenes in March this year (pictured) when the same terrace was rammed with drinkers
Pictured: Benidorm with unusually quiet bar terraces and some space on the local beaches
Images from Benidorm show empty chairs outside bars and space on beaches - rare for this time of year when they are usually rammed with tourists
In Costa del Sol, the holiday rental sector saw a drop of 2.2% in tourist numbers during the first half of the year - a trend that has accelerated since March, when numbers hit a low of 57%. Pictured: A bar in Benidorm with empty tables
While the downturn has sparked concern among local businesses, others see it as a welcome break after years of struggling to cope with overtourism
Another added: 'Very good news, let's see if we stop depending on tourism and the business fabric returns to Spain.
'Tourism should be regulated somehow and see if the real estate bubble explodes because of that and people here can buy a house again like it used to be.'
A third said: 'It seems good to me, that it goes down, even if it negative impact on commerce (and I feel sorry for those freelancers) but if we settle in that niche we will never be able to improve the rent of the Malagasy, added to that the price of the property would continue to rise.
'We don't want displaced Malagasy people, we want Malagasy people thriving. Tourism is not bad, but Malaga needs to grow according to its situation, and what was happening is that we were above what we could stand.
'Let's see if this helps entrepreneurs to rethink if the only business that thrives in Malaga is the quaternary sector... We want more industry, which can really make Malagasy people increase their capital!!!'
Pictured: Locals express their feelings about the decline in tourists
It follows mass protests across Spain where thousands have claimed excessive tourism is forcing locals out of affordable housing, raising the cost of living and making the city centres unusable. Pictured: A beach in Benidorm
The decline in tourist numbers is thought to be caused by a combination of rising prices, overtourism concerns, and a shift in travel preferences
The decline in tourist numbers is thought to be caused by a combination of rising prices, overtourism concerns, and a shift in travel preferences.
It comes as a slump in spending in Majorca this summer has been blamed on the wave of anti-tourism protests that have gripped Spain.
With British holidaymakers seemingly among foreigners turning their backs on the island, its tourism industry is in panic mode as officials overseeing the nightlife sector and tour companies warn that guests no longer feel 'welcomed'.
The restaurant association president, Juanmi Ferrer, gave a stark warning that the messaging of the protests is 'scaring visitors away'.
Additionally, Miguel Pérez-Marsá, head of the nightlife association, told Majorca Daily Bulletin: 'The tourists we're interested in are being driven away; they don't feel welcome and are going to other destinations.'
Local media reports that the situation has become so dire that some managers have given staff holidays in the middle of July, which is often the height of the summer rush.
Costa del Sol isn't the only Spanish holiday hotspot experiencing a drop in visitors this year - Majorca has also seen a sharp decline in tourist numbers. Pictured: Jumping Jacks bar a few days ago
This is the same bar pictured last year, before the decline in tourist numbers
Pictured: A beach in Benidorm unusually quiet for this time of year
This time of year beaches in Benidorm are expected to be rammed with tourists at this time of year but images suggest otherwise
Streets are also far quieter than usual in the Spanish municipality
Costa del Sol isn't the only Spanish holiday hotspot experiencing a drop in visitors this year - Majorca has also seen a sharp decline in tourist numbers. Spanish officials have admitted that a relentless campaign of anti-tourist protests in Majorca is 'scaring away visitors' - with locals claiming some resorts are now 'completely dead'
But it's not just bars, restaurants, and nightlife venues feeling the slump.
Tour guides are seeing the same downward trend. Pedro Oliver, president of the College of Tour Guides, said: 'The anti-tourism messages are resonating.'
He revealed excursion sales have dropped by 20 per cent this summer, with Valldemossa, Palma and Port Soller among the worst-hit areas as British, German, and Italian tourists have all been put off.
'If you generate negative news, which has repercussions in other countries, tourists opt for other destinations when choosing their holidays,' he said. 'We are sending the message that we don't want tourists and that everything is too crowded.'
Excursion operator Proguies Turístics normally offers around 30 excursions per cruise. That number is now down to just 12 to 14.
Its president, Biel Rosales, warned: 'Tourismphobia and the idea that tourists are not welcome are hurting us greatly.' He added that high prices and traffic jams are also turning tourists away.
Transport bosses are also worried. Rafel Roig, president of the transport federation, said: 'You can't send out these messages because people won't go where they're not wanted.'
Coach firms and taxi drivers have both seen a decline in customers.
Majorca's beaches, often filled with tourists has seen fewer people than usual
Pictured: Empty chairs outside a restaurant in Majorca a few days ago
A recent image shows another empty restaurant in Majorca
Biel Moragues, from one of the island's taxi associations, said: 'British tourists are the most upset by the protests and have changed their holiday destination.'
Locals now say tourism on the island is completely different from years gone by.
It comes after anti-tourism activists have wreaked havoc across Spain this summer.
Thousands of protestors marched through central Barcelona last month, waving placards and squirting holidaymakers with water guns in the latest expression of anger at perceived overtourism in Spain.
Under the slogan 'Enough! Let's put limits on tourism', some 2,800 people - according to police - marched along a waterfront district of Barcelona to demand a new economic model that would reduce the millions of tourists that visit every year.
Protesters carried signs reading 'Barcelona is not for sale,' and, 'Tourists go home,' before some used water guns on tourists eating outdoors at restaurants in popular tourist hotspots. Chants of 'Tourists out of our neighbourhood' rang out as some stopped in front of the entrances to hotels.
Barcelona's rising cost of housing, up 68 percent in the past decade, is one of the main issues for the movement, along with the effects of tourism on local commerce and working conditions in the city of 1.6 million inhabitants.
Anti-riot forces gesture as protestors marched through Barcelona's Las Ramblas alley, on July 6
Video showed protestors gathering in Las Ramblas, a hotspot for holidaymakers
Protestors squirted water guns at tourists eating in popular spots in the city
Rents rose by 18% in June from a year earlier in tourist cities such as Barcelona and Madrid, according to the property website Idealista.
For years, the city has worn anti-tourist graffiti with messages such as 'tourists go home' aimed at visitors some blame for the rising prices and shaping of the economy around tourists.
The Barcelona protests came after similar demonstrations in tourist hotspots such as Malaga, Palma de Mallorca and the Canary Islands.
The second most visited country after France, Spain received 85 million foreign visitors in 2023, an increase of 18.7 percent from the previous year, according to the National Statistics Institute.
The most visited region was Catalonia, whose capital is Barcelona, with 18 million, followed by the Balearic Islands (14.4 million) and the Canary Islands (13.9 million).
Furious locals who orchestrated mass anti-tourism protests across the Canary Islands earlier this year issued another warning to British travellers this week as they vowed to target 'main holidaymaker areas' over the summer break.
Again, they aired their frustrations that not enough had been done to answer their calls.
Tens of thousands of people took to the streets of Tenerife on April 20, with roughly 200,000 protesters thought to have taken part in mass demonstrations across the island archipelago.
The protests, organised by various groups including 'Friends of Nature of Tenerife (ATAN)' aimed to discourage foreign holidaymakers while also compelling councils to introduce new legislation aimed at protecting the islands from the effects of an ever-expanding tourism industry.
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Eva Longoria, 50, sizzles in barely-there bikini and sheer romper as she enjoys family getaway in Spain
Eva Longoria, 50, sizzles in barely-there bikini and sheer romper as she enjoys family getaway in Spain

Daily Mail​

time5 hours ago

  • Daily Mail​

Eva Longoria, 50, sizzles in barely-there bikini and sheer romper as she enjoys family getaway in Spain

Eva Longoria put on a sizzling display in a plunging ensemble as she enjoyed a day out in Marbella, Spain with her family. The 50-year-old Desperate Housewives alum - who recently went bra-free during a stroll - was joined by her husband Jose Baston and their son Santiago, seven, as they soaked up the warm sunshine. The actress showed off her toned legs wearing a sheer white romper that had a low plunging neckline on the front. Underneath, the mom-of-one sported a skimpy white bikini top as well as matching bottoms. Eva slipped into a pair of open-toed sandals and accessorized the outfit with a pair of dangly earrings as well as a gold necklace with a cross-shaped pendant on the front. The Hollywood star additionally carried a wicker purse over her left shoulder while a stylish hat was placed on top of her brunette locks that flowed down in light waves. Eva Longoria, 50, put on a sizzling display in a plunging ensemble as she enjoyed a day out in Marbella, Spain with her family The Desperate Housewives alum was joined by her husband Jose Baston and their son Santiago, seven, as they soaked up the warm sunshine Eva - who has been spending most of the summer along the Spanish coast - enjoyed a walk outdoors with her loved ones. At one point, the Land Of Women star flashed a cheerful smile during the lighthearted excursion. She also indulged in a bit of shopping as she visited a nearby vendors and picked up a few items. The star has been spending her time abroad at homes in both Mexico and Spain following Trump's U.S. presidential win late last year. 'I had my whole adult life here,' Eva told Marie Claire about living in California, before opening up about how it has changed over the years. 'Whether it's the homelessness or the taxes, not that I want to s**t on California - it just feels like this chapter in my life is done now.' She continued, 'I'm privileged. I get to escape and go somewhere. Most Americans aren't so lucky. They're going to be stuck in this dystopian country, and my anxiety and sadness is for them.' During her recent time in Spain, the beauty was seen getting her steps in during a power walk in Marbella last week and also glammed up for the Global Gift Gala at Hotel Don Pepe Gran Meliá. The actress showed off her toned legs wearing a sheer white romper that had a low plunging neckline on the front Eva slipped into a pair of open-toed sandals and accessorized the outfit with a pair of dangly earrings as well as a gold necklace with a cross-shaped pendant on the front The Hollywood star additionally carried a wicker purse over her left shoulder while a stylish hat was placed on top of her brunette locks that flowed down in light waves Eva - who has been spending most of the summer along the Spanish coast - enjoyed a walk outdoors with her loved ones She also indulged in a bit of shopping as she visited a nearby vendors and picked up a few items The star has been spending her time abroad at her homes in both Mexico and Spain following Trump's U.S. presidential win late last year She also flaunted her summer-ready body in a fashionable bikini as she spent time by the water - five months after celebrating her 50th birthday in March. While talking to People in April, Eva opened up about the milestone and gushed, 'I'm having a moment. 'My skin's having a moment, I feel like my eyebrows are having a moment, I feel the healthiest I've ever been - it feels amazing.' The actress further reflected on how she has been focusing on her heath and explained, 'I travel, I exercise, I'm running up and down with my 6-year-old.' Eva and husband Jose welcomed their son Santiago in 2018 - who officially turned seven-years-old in June. 'I want to be able to do those things as long as I can. Your life when you're young should be about saying yes to everything. Now that I'm 50, it's about saying no and curating what I want my life to look like.' When it comes to fitness and self-care, the star expressed to Marie Claire that she often does cold plunges, meditation, journaling and also strength-training. 'I wake up with the sun; I'm doing the grounding; I have an Oura ring to track deep sleep; I'm taking magnesium and other supplements.' She continued, 'I'm privileged. I get to escape and go somewhere. Most Americans aren't so lucky. They're going to be stuck in this dystopian country, and my anxiety and sadness is for them' Eva is seen looking at toys as she stopped by one of the many vendors along the Spanish coast this week While talking to People in April, Eva opened up about the milestone and gushed, 'I'm having a moment' 'I want to be able to do those things as long as I can. Your life when you're young should be about saying yes to everything. Now that I'm 50, it's about saying no and curating what I want my life to look like,' the actress explained When it comes to fitness and self-care, the star expressed to Marie Claire that she often does cold plunges, meditation, journaling and also strength-training She continued, 'I'm doing everything. Not because I don't want to age but because I want to age' She continued, 'I'm doing everything. Not because I don't want to age but because I want to age.' While Eva has been spending her time abroad with her family, the star has been keeping busy in front of the camera as well. The beauty recently appeared in the comedic film Alexander And The Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Road Trip which was released on Disney+ back in March. She starred alongside other cast members such as Jesse Garcia, Paulina Chavez, Cheech Marin and Thom Nemer. And in April, her CNN docuseries Eva Longoria: Searching For Spain premiered and concluded in June following eight episodes. Throughout the series, the actress explored a number of cities in the country including Madrid, Barcelona, Marbella, Galicia and San Sebastian. Eva and husband Jose welcomed their son Santiago in 2018 - who officially turned seven-years-old in June; the actress seen with her son in 2024 in Abu Dhabi And in April, her CNN docuseries Eva Longoria: Searching For Spain premiered and concluded in June following eight episodes Eva expressed in a statement, per CNN: 'Spain's rich culture, passionate people and bold and diverse cuisines have captivated me as long as I can remember, especially knowing that one of my Mexican-American ancestors has deep roots in this remarkable country. 'The opportunity to immerse myself in Spain's many regions, to discover its fascinating history, to indulge in its dynamic culinary traditions and innovations has been nothing short of exhilarating. 'I am so excited to finally share this incredible journey with the world!' Eva is set to travel to France for the upcoming season of Searching For - which will air next year in 2026.

How a seaside gem once loved by holidaymakers is packed with derelict ghost hotels... but locals say 'it's still better than Skegness'
How a seaside gem once loved by holidaymakers is packed with derelict ghost hotels... but locals say 'it's still better than Skegness'

Daily Mail​

time9 hours ago

  • Daily Mail​

How a seaside gem once loved by holidaymakers is packed with derelict ghost hotels... but locals say 'it's still better than Skegness'

With its pristine sandy beaches and bustling seafront its easy to see why Great Yarmouth was beloved by millions of day trippers for decades. In recent years the council has splashed cash to brighten up the ageing Britannia Pier and promenade in an effort to recapture some of the town's past glory. But while crowds of summer holidaymakers still enjoy strolling past its arcades, fish and chip shops and walking on the sand – a few roads over it is a very different story. Like a lot of Britain's faded seaside gems, Yarmouth has a big hotel problem. Victorian guest houses and converted homes once packed to the rafters with excited visitors are now left empty, boarded-up and derelict after years of decline. Neglected back streets are now becoming used by fly-tipping yobs to dump rubbish and old furniture. Even the town's Winter Gardens, a grand grade-II listed glass hall, is boarded-off while it awaits a much needed spruce-up thanks to £10m in lottery funding. But residents want funding spread evenly to tidy up the streets packed with eyesore buildings. One local told the Daily Mail: 'The same investment hasn't gone into other buildings. 'It's cosmetic on the seafront but there's fly tipping on the back streets. An overhead view of the derelict Victory Hotel in Great Yarmouth. The abandoned hotel went up in flames in 2023 in a suspected arson attack and has been left in its damaged condition Pictured: The Victory Hotel. Great Yarmouth, like many other resorts in the UK, was once a seaside gem, but is now packed with boarded up hotels The seaside resort's Winter Gardens attraction was the last surviving Victorian glasshouse but has sat derelict for years. A restoration project is due to begin, and could be reopened by 2027 The roof of the Victory Hotel after firefighters fought to put out a blaze in 2023. Eight weeks before the fire, the empty hotel was found to have been used as a cannabis farm While parts of the hotel have been boarded up, the upper windows remain smashed in, with shards of broken glass around the edges 'The two years after lock down were alright because people hadn't been anywhere. 'Then after that the decline started and you had foreign men put into hotels with no outlook or work at all.' While the council are keen to suggest that all seaside towns have a problem with empty buildings - Yarmouth's are hard to ignore. An eerie building just one street back from the seafront is the former home of The Victory Hotel. The hotel has remained derelict for years and in 2023 its roof was damaged by a fire caused by a suspected arson attack. Just eight weeks before the fire broke out, police discovered a cannabis farm growing inside the dilapidated building. Just a few minutes away, a blue plaque on the front of the Royal Hotel on the seafront, proudly tells visitors Charles Dickens had stayed there from 1848 to 1849 while he was writing David Copperfield. But now the once-grand hotel is closed with weeds growing up around the edges and a sign saying it was guarded by 24/7 security. Further along the front, Trafalgar House, a large Victorian building once home to a restaurant, is boarded up with a sign saying it is for let. The Show Boat amusement arcade is also closed for business, with its windows whited-out. While a Victorian sailors' refuge, dating from 1861, called The Sailors Home is also boarded-up. The building had been a museum between 1967 and 2003 but now a sign says 'renovation plans' are being 'finalised'. Further up on the North Quay, the derelict Star Hotel just about remains intact. The grade-II listed building has been standing since the 1600s but has become riddled with crime after its closure in 2020. The hotel, which was left in a state of disrepair, has been the subject of numerous break-ins and earlier this year had to be attended by fire crews after a crumbling part of the structure nearly fell to the floor. Yarmouth seems to be a tale of two towns - the grim, neglected back streets and the smarter sea front. The Star Hotel, which occupies a grade-II listed building, was abandoned in 2020 but in 2023 also suffered a suspected arson attack When the Daily Mail visited Great Yarmouth this week, while the back streets laid derelict with abandoned buildings and barely any activity, the main pier was still attracting holidaymakers The Royal Hotel, where Charles Dickens is said to have stayed between 1848 and 1849 while writing David Copperfield, is yet another one of many shuttered hotels in the seaside resort An overhead view of the Winter Gardens, which is currently closed, but is due to undergo restoration works over the next few years Shops and arcades on the main pier, though not as busy as in its heyday, was still bustling with families visiting the area during the summer holidays Tracy Crowther, 56, was visiting the seaside town with her father Malcolm Crowther. Tracy said she wanted to visit because they would go there when she was a kid, but admitted the town was looking 'run-down' and a 'bit tired' Nadine Fox, 44, who works in one of the food kiosks by the beach said the cost of living is crippling the town's economy. She said: 'I have lived here my whole life. As a holiday resort, it has gone downhill, mainly because of Covid. 'People cannot afford to do the same things as they did before. 'Now, if they have donuts and ice-cream, they can't afford to have lunch out as well. They either do one or the other. 'It's a lovely town but things have just become too expensive. 'We open until 11pm but a lot of the other businesses on the seafront close at 4pm or 5pm. It's because it's cheaper to close. 'They cannot afford to pay the staff, even if it's on the minimum wage, that's still £12 plus. And there's the tax and National Insurance. 'I would not want to see the bills for this place because these machines have to be left on all night [slush and ice cream machines]. The overheads have gone sky high. 'People will walk around the arcades and won't spend a penny and come and see the firework shows on Wednesday evenings.' Nick Robson, 56, runs a gift shop. He said: 'I think the investment in the town has changed it considerably. It looks a lot cleaner on the seafront but other areas have suffered because of it. The same investment hasn't gone into other buildings. 'It's cosmetic on the seafront but there's fly tipping on the back streets. 'The two years after lock down were alright because people hadn't been anywhere. Then after that the decline started and you had foreign men put into hotels with no outlook or work at all.' Councillors from Great Yarmouth Borough Council blamed the cost of cheaper holidays in Spain for the lack economic downturn - but said the town's future is bright. Pictured: A former HMO on Nelson Road South. It was gutted by a fire in 2023 The entire roof can be seen burnt through in aerial images. The building has since been left in a derelict state by its owner A sign outside the Royal Hotel reads: 'Charles Dickens stayed at the Royal Hotel in 1848-49 whilst engaged in writing the novel "David Copperfield" The now boarded up Maritime House once housed the Maritime Museum, but was closed in 2004 when the Time and Tide Museum opened. It was then used as a tourist information centre by the council but has stood empty and vandalised since it closed due to Covid Fire damage and graffiti can be seen on the exterior of the Star Hotel. The grade-II listed building has been riddled with crime since its closure in 2020 Despite looking 'run down' and 'tired' with many abandoned hotels and buildings, the seaside resort is still bringing in visitors. Whilst the pier itself was busy, the back streets and the stretch of beach itself remained empty John Quinn, 78, and Rita Smith, also 78, said 'We've been to a few English resorts, Blackpool, Morecambe, Scarborough and Skegness, and this is the nicest', though they said 'some of the back streets are a bit run-down' Cllr Malcolm Bird said: 'I do not think any seaside town is like it was in the Fifties or Sixties. I think there has been a decline. People's holidays have changed. 'There's a lot of positives but hotels need to invest in the future and offer people nothing less than what they've got at home. You have to invest. 'But a lot of these hotels are owned by middle-aged hoteliers and guest-house operators who do not want to throw that money into the business and instead rent them out as houses in multiple occupation which brings them revenue but does not do the town that great.' He added: 'We've had problems [with refuse collection] but from the first of April we have had a complete change of operators and they're investing in new sweepers and are trying to eradicate the dumping of furniture. It has improved. 'There are parts of Yarmouth, the back of the seafront, where there's a lot of property which is in need of major refurbishment and unfortunately we are not in such a bright economic period we used to be in. 'You can always go anywhere and find the bad parts. 'People say they think Great Yarmouth will be like Skegness or Canvey Island but I say 'No, we have a third river crossing and all the amusement arcades that my kids and their kids love are there and looking nice.' 'It's part of an English summer holiday.' Amanda Organ, 52, with son Thomas, four, said the issue was that people could not afford to visit Great Yarmouth anymore because it was too expensive An aerial view looking at the back streets behind the seafront. The tops of broken and burnt down roofs can be seen Pictured: The former Trinity Arms pub on Southgates Road in Great Yarmouth has been shut for more than half a century The Barking Smack pub, off which parts of the sign has fallen off, lays derelict on the seafront The fire damage to the grade-II listed Star Hotel can be spotted from above, with parts of the roof collapsing The hotel, on Hall Quay, sits along the River Yare. The building was cordoned off earlier this year after fears a crumbling section near the top was to fall through Despite the derelicts buildings littering the town centre, visitors said Yarmouth was nicer than other seaside favourites. Rita Smith, 78, on holiday with partner John Quinn, also 78, from Glasgow, said: 'We've been to a few English resorts, Blackpool, Morecambe, Scarborough and Skegness, and this is the nicest. But some of the back streets are a bit run-down.' Amanda Organ, 52, was with her son Thomas, aged four, said: 'I've known Great Yarmouth for a long time. 'It's a little bit more run down, but it always has been. 'What we find quite surprising is how expensive everything is. For holiday-makers, it's very expensive. 'For me, its best years were 30 years ago, when I was young, when the whole sea front was lined with shops selling candy floss, buckets and beach shoes and it's okay now but all the restaurants are closed. 'We have a lovely sandy beach there. Why is that not being heavily-promoted? It's because people cannot afford to come here. People have to spend a lot. 'We were going to go up to the model village but that's £11 so we didn't. 'I've only got one child but my friend has three children and for her to do crazy golf would cost £40.' Winter Gardens has received a £0.5m grant for its restoration. As initial works are set to begin, the venue is hosting a 'show and tell' event to share memories of the iconic site Despite the rainy weather when the Daily Mail visited on Thursday, visitors were still strolling down the pier Ms Organ told of how she has known Great Yarmouth for a long time and that while it has 'always been' run down, now it is a 'little bit more run down' The Showboat restaurant sits boarded up along the seafront Souvenir and candy shops remain open along the promenade as summer holidaymakers visit the famous Britannia Pier Tracy Crowther, 56, was staying in Great Yarmouth with her father, Malcolm, 86, for a five-day holiday. They came down on a coach trip from Leeds and were disappointed when they first saw the hotel they were staying at. Tracy, a teacher, said: 'I was disappointed when I first saw it. I didn't want to get off the coach. It looked tired from the outside and not very nice. But it's lovely on the inside. The food is lovely and it's nice. 'We came here because we used to come as kids.' Malcolm said: 'It's a bit run-down now. It's looking a little bit tired and that was a bit of a surprise. 'The back streets remind me a little bit of Blackpool. 'A couple of years ago me and my wife [Doreen] were here and stayed at that hotel [The Royal Hotel]. I'm not surprised it's closed down. 'We were very disappointed to say the least. It was very run-down and badly organised. They had no idea how to run the place.' Malcolm said: 'I'd still rather be here than Scarborough or Blackpool.'

The charming town in Andalusia that deserves more attention
The charming town in Andalusia that deserves more attention

Times

time9 hours ago

  • Times

The charming town in Andalusia that deserves more attention

It's hard to set foot in the Plaza de España in Vejer de la Frontera without a sense of expectation. Allow me to draw back the curtain. Greeting you at the heart of the plaza is an ornamental fountain — tiles, finials, lanterns, the lot — fed by four ceramic frogs. Around it, seats with more colourful tiling and wrought-iron backs are shaded by tall, slender palms. There's chatter from café customers and optimistic sparrows, orange trees and bougainvillea adding fragrance and colour, and a sweep of cobbles leading round past the whitewashed buildings in front of the town hall and up a ramp to a medieval archway. In other words, it is a perfect stage set, and the fact I have yet to witness any Vejeriegos breaking into a spontaneous chorus or serenading the crowd from a balcony must only, I feel sure, be down to bad timing on my part. But then Vejer, near the Atlantic southwestern coast of Spain, does have a habit of playing tricks with visitors' expectations. When a 24-year-old James Stuart rolled into this hilltop Andalusian town in 1980 in his VW Beetle, he was hoping only for a cheap base for himself and his surfboard, handy for the Costa de la Luz breakers a few miles away. Bread and milk were still delivered by donkey then and the Moorish old town was becoming run-down and abandoned as residents moved into newer houses. Stuart found an old building on the plaza that had been on the market for four years and snapped it up for £1,000. Forty-five years on that old building is the heart of La Casa del Califa, one of five hotels he owns in Vejer and nearby, along with a local holiday-home rental service, five restaurants and a hammam — all kept busy by the steady stream of visitors here for the charms of a place that he helped to put on the map. Padstow has Rick Stein; Vejer has James Stuart. Well, sort of. As empire-building goes it's been more organic than strategic. 'It became a lifelong project without that being the plan,' he says. 'Now I can't leave it. I can't sell it — it's my life.' After Stuart moved in, he worked as a guide, taking visitors on bicycle tours of this lesser-known region, before turning his home into a B&B. He managed to buy adjoining properties — some in ruins — and eventually, in 2001, transformed the collection of medieval buildings into the 21-room Casa del Califa, which soon earned its reputation as one of Andalusia's most charming boutique hotels. Two of its sister properties are neighbours: the quieter eight-room Las Palmeras opened in 2015, the only hotel in town with a swimming pool; the swisher Plaza 18 opened its six 19th-century rooms in 2020. Like a patient older sibling, La Casa del Califa has had to wait for Stuart's full attention, and it finally came last year, in the form of a top-to-toe makeover, its first in 25 years. 'I was never able to invest a lot — the hotel grew little by little — so it became a bit of a jumble,' Stuart says. 'Now we've tried to refine it, making everything more sumptuous, more cohesive.' That's easier said than done in a hotel made up of buildings from the 10th to the 16th centuries; it takes me a few days and a few wrong turns to make sense of the narrow staircases, connecting hallways, surprising courtyards and ancient archways. It's hotel design by way of MC Escher and Lewis Carroll. You think you've entered at the ground floor but, because Vejer stands on a hill, much of the hotel is downstairs — apart from the rooms that are upstairs, of course. 'The hardest thing has been the plumbing,' Stuart says. There are bedrooms in what were once stables, and restaurant tables in former water cisterns and grain silos. 'I've never changed the volume of the spaces, just adapted them.' • The easy way to see Andalusia's beautiful, history-packed villages It's his interior designer wife, Ellie Cormie, who can take credit for the updated decor. Gone are the desks and harder surfaces; in their place are linens, velvets and brocades draped over easy chairs, antique wall hangings and headboards. The strong Moroccan influence remains, especially in the fittings and artwork — unsurprising given that Morocco lies just across the Strait of Gibraltar. It is also evident in the popular Jardin del Califa restaurant, with its menu of pastilla pie and rice-and-beef maqluba, patio seating and new hanging gardens. But Africa and the Levant are well represented too, in photos, rugs and artefacts collected by Stuart's father during his time in Botswana, Syria and beyond. 'The caliphate of Damascus was the original one that sent tribes along the North African coastline to reach here,' Stuart says. Hence the hotel name. Among the antiques and saturated colours are paler fabrics, exposed stone walls and fun, fronded lampshades. In the Africa suite under the eaves — which I share with my husband and son (it was once Stuart's family apartment) — there's an old steamer trunk, bentwood armchairs upholstered with patterned hide, large rugs on the terracotta floor and framed black-and-white portraits of African people. Through the windows on one side we catch wafts of conversation, smoke and the tinkling fountains of Plaza de España; on the other side we can see all the way to Africa, the Atlas mountains shimmering in the distance. • The 25 coolest hotels in Andalusia Alongside its lovely new interiors, what Casa del Califa has always had is phenomenal views. Stuart's favourite room is No 12, a relatively modest double with a tasselled canopy over the bed, lots of windows and direct access to one of the hotel's panoramic terraces. You might think that a hilltop town would have views coming out its ears, but Moorish settlements like this were built more for protection from enemies and the elements than for panoramas and public viewpoints. Step through La Casa del Califa's front door, however, and look out the other side — from bedrooms, terraces and especially the rooftop tea-and-cocktail joint La Teteria del Califa — and you realise that you've landed one of the best seats in the town's natural amphitheatre. Royal-icing-white houses step sedately down the slope, their rosy dawn blush becoming a shades-on dazzle by noon. Below the town are rice fields, marshes and grazing retinto cattle; beyond them the oak-draped Sierra de los Alcornocales, the sea and another continent. It's not unlike Santorini in terms of spectacle — just without the eye-watering prices and queues of selfie-seekers. Not that streetside Vejer is short on eye candy. We have the Plaza de España for starters, but for mains and pud we get stuck in to the delicious tangle of medieval streets — glimpses of leafy patios through open doors; little independent boutiques and galleries; café tables on ramparts or in the shadow of the mosque-turned-church; a 15th-century castle with its Moorish arches and tropical gardens. Sure, it's touristy, and Airbnb has ruffled feathers here as it has elsewhere, but most visitors are Spanish and the tourism seems well managed. There are parallels with hippyish Tarifa, southeast along the coast, and Chefchaouen, the Moroccan mountain town with which Vejer is twinned, but Vejer is the boho sophisticate of the three — the place for grown-up hippies. • Read our full guide to Spain Strolls and cerveza stops and low-key sightseeing make Vejer the sort of place where it's easy to lose track of time. But we make sure that we keep our appointment at the hammam. Moorish Vejer didn't have one, but Stuart opened his where one would have been, near the mosque, and Cormie has decorated it with artisan wood and brasswork from Marrakesh. In the pleasingly dark and echoey space we dunk our way round the pools — from tepid to hot, to soap and salt scrub in the steam room, to a gaspingly cold plunge under a star-punctured dome. A sweet mint tea for the road and we're drifting back out into the street, feeling as zen as only grown-up hippies can — especially ones who've dried their cossies in the possibly-not-artisan spinny machine. On a previous visit to Vejer, in October 2019, we ventured out of town for surf lessons at El Palmar, a 20-minute drive away, and to explore the installations by Turrell, Eliasson and Abramovic at Fundacion NMAC, the brilliant pine forest sculpture park ten minutes' drive away. We visited Barbate — not because it was Franco's favourite seaside spot, but for its El Campero restaurant, which does masterful things with every part of a tuna — I still remember the exquisite fatty gill. Next time maybe we'll bring our walking boots for the trails around Vejer or sign up for a foodie tour with Annie B — like Stuart, a Scot adopted by the town as one of its own. This time we combine history with swimming and sandcastles by the dunes on Cape Trafalgar. And one evening we join a walking tour of Vejer with Juan Jose Ruiz. It's in Spanish, but he gives us an English-language pamphlet and recaps for us along the way, so we get the gist. He leads the group through the old town, taking us to courtyards and corners we might otherwise have missed, regaling us with ancient tales of thieves, ghosts, star-crossed lovers and the mysterious cobijadas — emblematic women of the 16th-century town who showed just one eye from behind a black veil. But every walking tour needs a twist, and Ruiz's is that he performs his as a walking minstrel, complete with a hooded cape, little leather bootees and a guitar to accompany his sung stories. It's … unconventional, but somehow it works. So it's not strictly true that I've never seen a Vejeriego burst into song. And it's not just Plaza de España — all the town's a stage. This article contains affiliate links that will earn us revenue Liz Edwards was a guest of the Califa Group, which has B&B doubles at La Casa del Califa from £108, mains at El Jardin del Califa from £12 and at Califa Tapas from £9 and 90-minute hammam sessions from £35pp ( She was also a guest of Vueling, which flies to Malaga from £39 ( and Marimantas Vejer, which has walking tours from £10 ( Do you have a favourite town in Spain? Let us know in the comments

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