From American Gigolo to Princess Diana—Bottega Veneta celebrates 50 Years of its iconic Intrecciato bags
The Intrecciato technique utilises long leather fettucce, or thin strips, that are woven into a leather base with slits in a diagonal pattern, instead of the more common vertical pattern. Much like cutting a piece of fabric on the bias, this technical development allowed for a softer structure. Its unique appearance became Bottega Veneta's calling card; eschewing the logo-driven trends of other luxury labels, in its first advertising campaigns it boasted: 'People know a Bottega the minute they see one. So we put our name on the inside only.'
With Paul Schrader's 1980 film American Gigolo , the Intrecciato bag became an indelible part of the fashion pop culture canon when Lauren Hutton's character carried a burgundy clutch in the crook of her arm. The bag was appropriately re-released as the 'Lauren Clutch' in 2017, and it's since become a favorite of celebrities—and the not-so-famous—who want to show off their good taste in a subtle way; although these days the Intrecciato is as easily recognizable as anything with logos on it. Tina Turner carrying her all-white Intrecciato at Spago, 1984. Getty Brooke Shields at the Death Becomes Her premiere, 1992. Getty
There is a world of possibility within Intrecciato. In 2002, when Tomas Maier was the creative director at the brand, he introduced the Cabat bag, which was entirely hand-woven on a wooden frame, a process that was named Intreccio (the Intrecciato utilises a needle for the weaving process). Further experiments with different types of leather have yielded other signature styles; Zanin mentions 'a padded fettucce for a more plush appearance,' or an 'an ultra-soft nappa leather that retains the impression of movements and folds of the weaving process to create a specially textured look.' Madonna at the Los Angeles premiere of Truth or Dare, 1991. Getty
There is a world of possibility within Intrecciato. In 2002, when Tomas Maier was the creative director at the brand, he introduced the Cabat bag, which was entirely hand-woven on a wooden frame, a process that was named Intreccio (the Intrecciato utilizes a needle for the weaving process). Further experiments with different types of leather have yielded other signature styles; Zanin mentions 'a padded fettucce for a more plush appearance,' or an 'an ultra-soft nappa leather that retains the impression of movements and folds of the weaving process to create a specially textured look.'
To ensure that a passion for craft continues to be at the heart of Bottega Veneta, the house launched the Accademia Labor et Ingenium in 2023, a school that instructs the next generation of artisans on the intricacies of their labor. 'A central pillar of the school is a training program for 50 students a year, with guaranteed employment at Bottega Veneta on completion of the course,' explains Zanin, who helped establish it. 'It's our responsibility to ensure the transmission of our artisanal savoir-faire.' Bottega Veneta's first Intrecciato bag from 1975. A close-up at the Intrecciato process. Matteo de Mayda The Intreccio technique, meanwhile, is all made by hand. Matteo de Mayda The bags are woven on a wooden frame. Matteo de Mayda
This story was originally published on Vogue.com.
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