Which is the best Canary Island?
With endless activities and hugely varied, well-established accommodation, both Tenerife and Gran Canaria are ideal for families. Whether you fancy kayaking, whale-watching, hiking, waterpark adventures or lazing on lava-sand beaches, the two grandes dames of Canarian tourism have it covered. But they also provide plenty of fun for a holiday as a couple, with friends or as a solo traveller. Lanzarote, meanwhile, pulls in active types with its great cycling, hiking and surfing, along with a growing number of design-savvy independent travellers drawn to its boutique hotels, the local creative scene and the legacy of the 20th-century artist César Manrique.
It's easy to see why these are the archipelago's most popular islands, and overtourism concerns have grown in recent years, so it pays to tread lightly and (if possible) consider visiting outside peak season for a more relaxed experience.
Beaches
Winner Lanzarote
On all three of the islands, the southern coasts have the best sunny weather (coastal temperatures rarely dip below 15C), while the north brings a wilder, less touristy feel but a more varied climate. Both Tenerife and Gran Canaria have their share of knockout-pretty beaches, from volcanic-sand coves to sweeping golden crescents and glassy, natural Atlantic pools.
In Tenerife, surfy El Medano, golden Playa de las Teresitas near Santa Cruz and the natural pools at Bajamar and Garachico are favourites, along with the busy, family-friendly sands in the south around Costa Adeje, Playa de las Americas and Los Cristianos.
Gran Canaria has the urban beauty of Playa de las Canteras in Las Palmas, the protected Sahara-like dunes of Maspalomas to the south, and natural pools (like Los Charcones) dotted along its northern shoreline.
But if fabulous beaches are your Canaries must-have, Lanzarote steals the spotlight. One of the loveliest places in the entire archipelago is Lanzarote's Punta del Papagayo, a rugged, protected promontory just east of Playa Blanca on the south coast. Here, a string of powdery, pale-gold beaches sits between cliffs plunging into the turquoise Atlantic, with just a laid-back chiringuito (beach venue) and a few dusty hiking trails for company.
Then there's Famara, a dream of a boho-cool surf beach stretching beneath spine-tingling cliffs on the north coast, also popular with swimmers, yogis and sun-seekers. Or go for a dip in the sparkling natural sea pools at Punta Mujeres, paddle in the gentle Caletones coves near Orzola, or take a day trip over to undeveloped La Graciosa by ferry for blissful back-to-nature strands.
Winner Tenerife
Canarian gastronomy has put itself firmly on the map over the past decade or so, with local chefs celebrating both wonderfully creative recipes and traditional flavours all over the archipelago.
If you're picking just one foodie destination, make it Tenerife, which as of April 2025 hosts seven of the Canaries' Michelin-starred restaurants (an eighth is currently moving premises) — including the only two kitchens awarded two stars each. Leading the charge are Canarian chefs the Padrón brothers, Juan Carlos and Jonathan, who are behind double-starred El Rincón de Juan Carlos in Adeje.
Tasting menus aside, the island also delights diners with its seafood restaurants, innovative tapas bars, Japanese-fusion kitchens, brunch-fuelled coffee spots and more. Don't miss the mid 20th-century Mercado de Nuestra Señora de Africa in Tenerife's capital Santa Cruz, with its overflowing fresh-produce stalls and low-key bar-restaurants. And for a taste of classic Tenerife cuisine, hunt down a guachinche — these frills-free, budget-friendly restaurants serve simple home-style meals, mostly in the northern part of the island and during the winter months (get a local recommendation on the ground for the best).
Gran Canaria is home to its own line-up of cutting-edge restaurants, two of which are nestled in Santa Catalina, a Royal Hideaway Hotel: the Padrón brothers' Michelin-starred Poemas by Hermanos Padrón, and Muxgo, which recently bagged the Canaries' first ever Michelin green star for its inventive, sustainably rooted menus. Tapas bar-hopping around the narrow old streets of Triana and Vegueta in Las Palmas is a joy too.
Caldera-strewn Lanzarote also has a crop of fired-up kitchens reimagining Canarian food with fresh flair (try SeBE, Palacio Ico, or Mirador de las Salinas), while the island's simple teleclubs (social centres) do typical Canarian dishes such as grilled goat's cheese and wrinkly potatoes with mojo sauces.
Hotels
Winner It's a tie . . . Lanzarote for boutique hotels, Tenerife and Gran Canaria for five-star resorts and family-focused properties
La Casa de los Naranjos in Lanzarote
Each of these islands is crammed with heavenly hotels, so it's a matter of which kind of base matches your needs. For boutique boltholes and creative design, Lanzarote easily leads the way. A fresh wave of independent small-scale retreats is celebrating the island's arty spirit and volcanic landscapes while also reviving intriguing historical buildings, such as the former home of César Manrique's family, now transformed into the chic César Lanzarote hotel. Other stars include Alava Suites in Costa Teguise, La Casa de los Naranjos in Haria, Buenavista Lanzarote among La Geria's lava fields and the Palacio Ico hotel in the former capital Teguise.
• More great hotels in Lanzarote
Intimate boutique escapes have arrived in Gran Canaria's capital Las Palmas too. Veintiuno (a converted 18th-century mansion), La Colonial Suites (a stylish twist on an early 20th-century casa de Indianos) and Hotel Masanet (an art deco-inspired beauty) all await in the old Vegueta neighbourhood. And Las Palmas' garden-filled Santa Catalina hotel — a luxuriously revamped 19th-century landmark — ranks among the top places to stay in the Canaries. But the island still remains most loved for its facility-laden resorts, which cluster around Maspalomas, Puerto de Mogan, Meloneras and Playa del Ingles in the south. Retro-feel Seaside Palm Beach is a well-established Maspalomas favourite.
Hacienda de las Cuatro Ventanas in Tenerife
Over in Tenerife, five-star wonders are a signature on the southwest coast, where seductive addresses such as Bahia del Duque (one of the Canaries' original luxury escapes), Tivoli La Caleta Tenerife Resort (with a gorgeous Anantara spa) and the Ritz-Carlton Tenerife, Abama (a citadel-like hideaway with Michelin-starred dining) lure regulars. If retreating to the wild north coast appeals, Be Tenerife has restored a collection of north-coast haciendas as design-led villas, and Puerto de la Cruz's historic Gran Hotel Taoro — where Agatha Christie once stayed — is relaunching in summer 2025 following a head-to-toe makeover.
Things to do
Winner Tenerife
On the Anaga coast of Tenerife
GETTY IMAGES
The queen of the Canaries outshines its siblings in sheer, thrilling variety. Where else offers the chance to hike up Spain's tallest peak — the 3,718m (12,200ft) Mount Teide — then go whale-watching in Europe's first whale heritage site, or bodega-hopping through sloping volcanic vineyards? Hiking is a key draw all over Tenerife, from cliff-hugging paths in the remote Anaga mountains to solitary trails around the offbeat Parque Rural de Teno and routes through the Unesco-listed volcanoscapes of the Parque Nacional del Teide. It's worth keeping in mind that some of the most popular trails now require prebooked permits, including Teide's summit and the Barranco de Masca.
Elsewhere, you can take a kitesurfing class, join morning yoga in El Medano, kayak past the unbelievably beautiful Los Gigantes cliffs, explore grand Canarian architecture in La Laguna and La Orotava, and even day-trip across to the go-slow neighbouring island of La Gomera. Then there's the lively arts scene in Santa Cruz, which also hosts one of Spain's greatest carnival celebrations; start with the design-forward Tenerife Espacio de las Artes (TEA), then wander through the mural-splashed historic centre. And that's all before even thinking about flopping on Tenerife's beaches.
•
ALAMY
Gran Canaria has a similarly tempting adventure-activity menu, along with excursions into the mountainous centre of the island around Artenara and Tejeda, the chance to see ancient art by the indigenous Guanches at the Cueva Pintada ('Painted Cave') in Galdar, and the cultural joys of the dynamic capital Las Palmas.
It's an active scene in Lanzarote too, where the great César Manrique's 'interventions' add an arts-focused edge to any itinerary: don't miss his 1960s house-studio built into the lava fields at the Fundación César Manrique.
• Best things to do in Gran Canaria
•
Bars
Winner It's a close call between Gran Canaria and Tenerife
Enjoying the sunset with a drink in Las Palmas
ALAMY
The archipelago's go-to party island is Gran Canaria, where all-night clubs mingle with craft cocktail bars, music festivals and vibey chiringuitos. Maspalomas is the centre of the action, drawing travellers from all over Europe with its lively year-round LGBT scene, especially the activity-packed Pride celebrations each May. Or hit the town in Gran Canaria's buzzing capital Las Palmas for rooftop cocktail spots (try Alis at the Santa Catalina, or Rocktop La Peregrina in Vegueta) and trendy, multi-concept haunts such as Talleres Palermo.
• More LGBT-friendly destinations
Café life in La Laguna, Tenerife
ALAMY
Tenerife has its own stash of swish roof-terrace cocktails bars, laid-back chiringuitos with live music and open-late clubs, especially around Los Cristianos and more upmarket Costa Adeje and La Caleta. Some of the Canaries' finest cocktails are served at Maresia Atlantic Bar, the rooftop terrace at La Caleta's five-star Royal Hideaway Corales Beach resort, whose head mixologist Yoni Mesa was Spain's champion cocktail maker in 2023. Then there's studenty nightlife in La Laguna, and plenty going on in Santa Cruz, where kiosk bars buzz until late on leafy plazas and La Noria is a popular old-town nightlife area with tables spilling out on to the street.
Lanzarote has a much more relaxed nightlife scene, mostly centred on the local bars overlooking the Charco de San Gines lagoon in the capital Arrecife. You'll find plenty of tempting spots for crisp Canarian wines at sunset (El Chupadero in vine-filled La Geria is popular) and many vineyards have smart wine-tasting terraces. But the best way to savour Lanzarote's wine scene is by touring one of its many respected bodegas, whether at a long-established spot like El Grifo (the oldest winery in the Canaries) or a newer, small-scale operation such as Bodega Cohombrillo.
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La Casa de los Naranjos hotel review: a history-steeped boutique stay in Lanzarote's north
Circled by citrus trees on the fringes of picturesque Haria is this handsome 19th-century manor that's been sensitively brought back to life by owner José Antonio, who stumbled upon the then-neglected building just short of a decade ago. Step inside and you'll find it rich with romance — original timber boards creak underfoot, beamed ceilings are hung with hefty chandeliers, and enormous sash windows encourage near-constant contemplation of the volcanic scenery beyond. What's so special about the place though is that for all the gilt and grandeur, the mood is more home-from-home than hotel; service is warm yet pleasingly uncomplicated, and since the staff clock off around midnight, guests are invited into the house kitchen to rustle up their own gin and tonics after hours. This article contains affiliate links, which may earn us revenue Score 8/10Light pours into the eight well-dressed bedrooms through sizeable windows edged with jade-green frames. Each one is unique as far as the layout is concerned, though they're all decidedly lofty with headboards crafted out of repurposed wooden panels, antique writing desks and freestanding wardrobes. The bathrooms are equally elegant with walk-in rainfall showers, age-speckled mirrors and greenery planted in white enamel pots. Some of them have clawfoot bath tubs from which you can glimpse the mountaintops glowing in the last of the day's sun, and you can expect full-size products from French skincare label Nuxe. Rooms One and Two are the most impressive — the latter has its own mezzanine complete with twin beds, making it ideal for families — while Room Six leads out onto a sweeping private terrace. Score 7/10The sun-washed central courtyard provides the backdrop for simple yet delicious breakfasts. There's no buffet but the à la carte line-up features just-cut jamon, herby omelettes and toast smothered in marmalade made with the oranges grown outside, and guests are encouraged to try a couple of plates from the menu each morning by attentive staff. Dinner is taken in the high-ceilinged dining room, where a huge grandfather clock towers over candelabra-lit tables. Stand-outs include the blackened Lanzarote octopus with potato and lime, and the delicate island grouper with cauliflower cream. The wine list is heavy on Canarian labels and the chef is happy to adapt most of the dishes on the menu to suit children. • Read our full guide to Lanzarote• Best things to do in Lanzarote Score 7/10Though it's searingly hot throughout the day, the house's vast, view-toting rooftop is a glorious spot to perch once the sun has begun to dip. In the south-facing salon you'll find floral upholstered armchairs for lounging in, and bibliophiles will feel right at home in the small upstairs library, with its shelves of leather-bound tomes and historic maps. There's no pool at present but the team has one in the works, and although there are few dedicated facilities for them, children are very welcome — babysitters can be arranged for parents keen to have an evening to themselves during their stay. Score 9/10On the fringes of Haria: a sleepy whitewashed village in the island's north with narrow streets, a couple of low-key bars and a small artisanal market which takes over the central square every Saturday. The hotel is within strolling distance of the Casa Museo de César Manrique while being remarkably well-placed for other sights, too. The Jameos del Agua caves and the high-perched Mirador del Rio for example are just a 15-minute drive away, plus there are some beautiful white-sand beaches and hiking routes nearby. Price rooms from £134Restaurant mains from £20Family-friendly YAccessible N Harriet Charnock-Bates was a guest of La Casa de los Naranjos ( • Best all-inclusive hotels in Lanzarote• The best family hotels in Lanzarote
Times
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Which is the best Canary Island?
Dotted in the Atlantic, about 850 miles southwest of mainland Spain, the eight sun-baked Canary Islands often feel like their own spectacular, volcanic world. Each of the three most-visited islands — Tenerife, Gran Canaria and Lanzarote — makes a richly rewarding destination in its own right, and many holidaymakers return year after year to their favourite. So if it's your first time in the Canaries, which should you pick? Or, if you're making a return trip, should you mix things up or stay loyal? With endless activities and hugely varied, well-established accommodation, both Tenerife and Gran Canaria are ideal for families. Whether you fancy kayaking, whale-watching, hiking, waterpark adventures or lazing on lava-sand beaches, the two grandes dames of Canarian tourism have it covered. But they also provide plenty of fun for a holiday as a couple, with friends or as a solo traveller. Lanzarote, meanwhile, pulls in active types with its great cycling, hiking and surfing, along with a growing number of design-savvy independent travellers drawn to its boutique hotels, the local creative scene and the legacy of the 20th-century artist César Manrique. It's easy to see why these are the archipelago's most popular islands, and overtourism concerns have grown in recent years, so it pays to tread lightly and (if possible) consider visiting outside peak season for a more relaxed experience. Beaches Winner Lanzarote On all three of the islands, the southern coasts have the best sunny weather (coastal temperatures rarely dip below 15C), while the north brings a wilder, less touristy feel but a more varied climate. Both Tenerife and Gran Canaria have their share of knockout-pretty beaches, from volcanic-sand coves to sweeping golden crescents and glassy, natural Atlantic pools. In Tenerife, surfy El Medano, golden Playa de las Teresitas near Santa Cruz and the natural pools at Bajamar and Garachico are favourites, along with the busy, family-friendly sands in the south around Costa Adeje, Playa de las Americas and Los Cristianos. Gran Canaria has the urban beauty of Playa de las Canteras in Las Palmas, the protected Sahara-like dunes of Maspalomas to the south, and natural pools (like Los Charcones) dotted along its northern shoreline. But if fabulous beaches are your Canaries must-have, Lanzarote steals the spotlight. One of the loveliest places in the entire archipelago is Lanzarote's Punta del Papagayo, a rugged, protected promontory just east of Playa Blanca on the south coast. Here, a string of powdery, pale-gold beaches sits between cliffs plunging into the turquoise Atlantic, with just a laid-back chiringuito (beach venue) and a few dusty hiking trails for company. Then there's Famara, a dream of a boho-cool surf beach stretching beneath spine-tingling cliffs on the north coast, also popular with swimmers, yogis and sun-seekers. Or go for a dip in the sparkling natural sea pools at Punta Mujeres, paddle in the gentle Caletones coves near Orzola, or take a day trip over to undeveloped La Graciosa by ferry for blissful back-to-nature strands. Winner Tenerife Canarian gastronomy has put itself firmly on the map over the past decade or so, with local chefs celebrating both wonderfully creative recipes and traditional flavours all over the archipelago. If you're picking just one foodie destination, make it Tenerife, which as of April 2025 hosts seven of the Canaries' Michelin-starred restaurants (an eighth is currently moving premises) — including the only two kitchens awarded two stars each. Leading the charge are Canarian chefs the Padrón brothers, Juan Carlos and Jonathan, who are behind double-starred El Rincón de Juan Carlos in Adeje. Tasting menus aside, the island also delights diners with its seafood restaurants, innovative tapas bars, Japanese-fusion kitchens, brunch-fuelled coffee spots and more. Don't miss the mid 20th-century Mercado de Nuestra Señora de Africa in Tenerife's capital Santa Cruz, with its overflowing fresh-produce stalls and low-key bar-restaurants. And for a taste of classic Tenerife cuisine, hunt down a guachinche — these frills-free, budget-friendly restaurants serve simple home-style meals, mostly in the northern part of the island and during the winter months (get a local recommendation on the ground for the best). Gran Canaria is home to its own line-up of cutting-edge restaurants, two of which are nestled in Santa Catalina, a Royal Hideaway Hotel: the Padrón brothers' Michelin-starred Poemas by Hermanos Padrón, and Muxgo, which recently bagged the Canaries' first ever Michelin green star for its inventive, sustainably rooted menus. Tapas bar-hopping around the narrow old streets of Triana and Vegueta in Las Palmas is a joy too. Caldera-strewn Lanzarote also has a crop of fired-up kitchens reimagining Canarian food with fresh flair (try SeBE, Palacio Ico, or Mirador de las Salinas), while the island's simple teleclubs (social centres) do typical Canarian dishes such as grilled goat's cheese and wrinkly potatoes with mojo sauces. Hotels Winner It's a tie . . . Lanzarote for boutique hotels, Tenerife and Gran Canaria for five-star resorts and family-focused properties La Casa de los Naranjos in Lanzarote Each of these islands is crammed with heavenly hotels, so it's a matter of which kind of base matches your needs. For boutique boltholes and creative design, Lanzarote easily leads the way. A fresh wave of independent small-scale retreats is celebrating the island's arty spirit and volcanic landscapes while also reviving intriguing historical buildings, such as the former home of César Manrique's family, now transformed into the chic César Lanzarote hotel. Other stars include Alava Suites in Costa Teguise, La Casa de los Naranjos in Haria, Buenavista Lanzarote among La Geria's lava fields and the Palacio Ico hotel in the former capital Teguise. • More great hotels in Lanzarote Intimate boutique escapes have arrived in Gran Canaria's capital Las Palmas too. Veintiuno (a converted 18th-century mansion), La Colonial Suites (a stylish twist on an early 20th-century casa de Indianos) and Hotel Masanet (an art deco-inspired beauty) all await in the old Vegueta neighbourhood. And Las Palmas' garden-filled Santa Catalina hotel — a luxuriously revamped 19th-century landmark — ranks among the top places to stay in the Canaries. But the island still remains most loved for its facility-laden resorts, which cluster around Maspalomas, Puerto de Mogan, Meloneras and Playa del Ingles in the south. Retro-feel Seaside Palm Beach is a well-established Maspalomas favourite. Hacienda de las Cuatro Ventanas in Tenerife Over in Tenerife, five-star wonders are a signature on the southwest coast, where seductive addresses such as Bahia del Duque (one of the Canaries' original luxury escapes), Tivoli La Caleta Tenerife Resort (with a gorgeous Anantara spa) and the Ritz-Carlton Tenerife, Abama (a citadel-like hideaway with Michelin-starred dining) lure regulars. If retreating to the wild north coast appeals, Be Tenerife has restored a collection of north-coast haciendas as design-led villas, and Puerto de la Cruz's historic Gran Hotel Taoro — where Agatha Christie once stayed — is relaunching in summer 2025 following a head-to-toe makeover. Things to do Winner Tenerife On the Anaga coast of Tenerife GETTY IMAGES The queen of the Canaries outshines its siblings in sheer, thrilling variety. Where else offers the chance to hike up Spain's tallest peak — the 3,718m (12,200ft) Mount Teide — then go whale-watching in Europe's first whale heritage site, or bodega-hopping through sloping volcanic vineyards? Hiking is a key draw all over Tenerife, from cliff-hugging paths in the remote Anaga mountains to solitary trails around the offbeat Parque Rural de Teno and routes through the Unesco-listed volcanoscapes of the Parque Nacional del Teide. It's worth keeping in mind that some of the most popular trails now require prebooked permits, including Teide's summit and the Barranco de Masca. Elsewhere, you can take a kitesurfing class, join morning yoga in El Medano, kayak past the unbelievably beautiful Los Gigantes cliffs, explore grand Canarian architecture in La Laguna and La Orotava, and even day-trip across to the go-slow neighbouring island of La Gomera. Then there's the lively arts scene in Santa Cruz, which also hosts one of Spain's greatest carnival celebrations; start with the design-forward Tenerife Espacio de las Artes (TEA), then wander through the mural-splashed historic centre. And that's all before even thinking about flopping on Tenerife's beaches. • ALAMY Gran Canaria has a similarly tempting adventure-activity menu, along with excursions into the mountainous centre of the island around Artenara and Tejeda, the chance to see ancient art by the indigenous Guanches at the Cueva Pintada ('Painted Cave') in Galdar, and the cultural joys of the dynamic capital Las Palmas. It's an active scene in Lanzarote too, where the great César Manrique's 'interventions' add an arts-focused edge to any itinerary: don't miss his 1960s house-studio built into the lava fields at the Fundación César Manrique. • Best things to do in Gran Canaria • Bars Winner It's a close call between Gran Canaria and Tenerife Enjoying the sunset with a drink in Las Palmas ALAMY The archipelago's go-to party island is Gran Canaria, where all-night clubs mingle with craft cocktail bars, music festivals and vibey chiringuitos. Maspalomas is the centre of the action, drawing travellers from all over Europe with its lively year-round LGBT scene, especially the activity-packed Pride celebrations each May. Or hit the town in Gran Canaria's buzzing capital Las Palmas for rooftop cocktail spots (try Alis at the Santa Catalina, or Rocktop La Peregrina in Vegueta) and trendy, multi-concept haunts such as Talleres Palermo. • More LGBT-friendly destinations Café life in La Laguna, Tenerife ALAMY Tenerife has its own stash of swish roof-terrace cocktails bars, laid-back chiringuitos with live music and open-late clubs, especially around Los Cristianos and more upmarket Costa Adeje and La Caleta. Some of the Canaries' finest cocktails are served at Maresia Atlantic Bar, the rooftop terrace at La Caleta's five-star Royal Hideaway Corales Beach resort, whose head mixologist Yoni Mesa was Spain's champion cocktail maker in 2023. Then there's studenty nightlife in La Laguna, and plenty going on in Santa Cruz, where kiosk bars buzz until late on leafy plazas and La Noria is a popular old-town nightlife area with tables spilling out on to the street. Lanzarote has a much more relaxed nightlife scene, mostly centred on the local bars overlooking the Charco de San Gines lagoon in the capital Arrecife. You'll find plenty of tempting spots for crisp Canarian wines at sunset (El Chupadero in vine-filled La Geria is popular) and many vineyards have smart wine-tasting terraces. But the best way to savour Lanzarote's wine scene is by touring one of its many respected bodegas, whether at a long-established spot like El Grifo (the oldest winery in the Canaries) or a newer, small-scale operation such as Bodega Cohombrillo.
Times
28-04-2025
- Times
Rangers defy new threat to protect Virunga National Park
Even from the air, Virunga National Park's scale and beauty are almost impossible to grasp. At the controls of a Bat Hawk bush aircraft, the park's director Emmanuel De Merode points north towards the Rwenzori massif where 17,000ft peaks defy the equatorial heat with their permanent snow cover and glaciers that feed the Nile. He banks low to follow the curving Semliki river. Below, hippos and crocodiles slip into the current that drains Lake Edward, which straddles the border between the Democratic Republic of Congo and Uganda. A pair of elephants emerging from acacia trees completes the Eden-like scene. 'They're feeling safe enough to return to Virunga,' De Merode, 54, says, his voice crackling through the headset over the roar of the single propeller. He
