'I'll never return to popular Italy holiday spot - everything shuts by 10pm'
I travelled to this popular destination in early June, when the spot is at peak season perfection. Initially, it seemed like a dream come true, but my choice of destination soon felt misguided.
Lake Como, with its alpine splendour and Italian allure, has long been a top pick for those looking to escape. The lake is sprinkled with quaint pastel-coloured villages, grand villas, and striking mountain scenery.
Plus, it's a stone's throw from Milan; you can hop on a train from Milan Centrale to Como San Giovanni, which takes roughly 37 to 47 minutes, or drive there in about an hour and 36 minutes.
I made my way there in early June, when Lake Como was at its peak season perfection. Initially, it seemed like a dream come true, but my choice of destination soon felt misguided.
Arriving at the bustling ferry port in Bellagio, my first impression was stunning – it's easy to see why it's dubbed "the pearl of Lake Como". Yet, the charm of Bellagio quickly wore off, overhyped by the endless TikTok and Instagram reels that had bombarded me before my visit.
Bellagio sits on the Lario Peninsula, nestled in the southern reaches of Lake Como. By day, its beauty is undeniable, and even with throngs of tourists, the cobbled lanes feel manageable, reports the Express.
But come evening, the magic seems to dissipate.
To my surprise, most eateries close early – around 9pm or 9:30pm - with only a handful staying open until 10pm or 11pm.
After spending the day discovering the lake's delights, we were longing for a leisurely late-night meal or a drink against the picturesque backdrop. Alas, Bellagio was already tucking itself in for the night.
Hailing from Milan, where nightlife spills into the bustling squares, Bellagio seemed oddly quiet. Looking back, we may have been a bit naive to expect the same late-night European buzz in a small lakeside town.
Still, we were let down by the early closing times.
It was especially annoying on nights when we came back from other towns like Lenno, where eateries stayed open later and the atmosphere was more laid-back, warm and inviting.
Our day at Villa del Balbianello (famous for its Star Wars and James Bond scenes) ended with a more lively late afternoon in Lenno, highlighting that Bellagio simply wasn't the right base for us.
For a place as tourist-focused and polished as Bellagio, the food was a letdown. We had a string of rather forgettable dinners, and one night was particularly marred by a very dry tiramisu served by a host who had strong views on local Airbnb owners.
While some restaurant owners were kind - one even lent us umbrellas and plastic bags when we got caught in a dramatic rainstorm - most meals felt overpriced and underwhelming.
Despite its culinary backdrop, Bellagio lacked flavour; however, there's something to be said for long queues at restaurants luring us away from some of the most popular spots.
Bellagio, the busiest town on Lake Como, feels more commercialised than its quieter, more authentic neighbours. Even Varenna and Lenno, which are equally popular, retain a rustic Italian charm.
However, Bellagio has its own allure. Staying with an Airbnb host who lived on-site offered a fantastic chance to practise Italian and enjoy fresh fish cooked in the garden after his fishing trip.
Another highlight was the stunning landscape, with Bellagio offering almost panoramic views. It felt like discovering San Giovanni beach, a hidden gem reached by a scenic walk (with plenty of stairs).
By this measure, Bellagio is not very accessible for less mobile visitors beyond the cobbled streets leading to the bustling port. Public transport is limited to ferries, buses and a few elusive taxis.
The slow ferry from Como to Bellagio is a must-do. This nearly two-hour cruise passes charming villages like Tremezzo, Lenno, and Cernobbio.
At just £18, it's scenic and relaxing, making the long journey absolutely worth it, even if it means returning to the drizzly UK summer.
The ferry schedule to other parts of the lake is simple enough if you pop by the ferry port. A bit of friendly advice: secure your ticket first, then nip across to the restaurant opposite the port for a drink while you wait.
Enjoying complimentary nibbles with an Aperol in the sunshine certainly makes queuing a more enjoyable affair, but don't let yourself get too swept up in the moment, or you might just miss the ferry.
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