ShoMan in Seattle Makes A Convincing Case For Kappo-Style Dining

Forbes

3 days ago

Most Japanese food fans have experienced omakase, a lavish multi-course menu determined by the chef. Kappo-style sushi restaurants amp up that approach by adding luxe creations including elegant dashi-based preparations made while guests watch. Here's how one restaurant owner is determined to take this approach to a bigger stage.
Yoshi Yokoyama has been in the business of making seafood lovers swoon for years, dating back to the opening of I Love Sushi in the Seattle suburb of Bellevue back in the 1980s. When sushi legend Shiro Kashiba left his namesake restaurant to rock and roll at a new spot at the Pike Place Market, he turned his original operation over to Yokoyama.
Last fall, the enterprising entrepreneur launched the stylish ShoMan just a few blocks away. Its configuration – with 14 seats wrapping around the busy kitchen – sets the tone for the elaborate meal. The chefs are the stars, diners the appreciative audience. The feast isn't fussy, though. There's plenty of conversation playing out between bites and admiring mmmm's.
Yokoyama recalled what spoke to him about this approach to dining during a recent interview via email.
For those who aren't familiar, how would you describe Kappo-style dining?
Kappo is a traditional Japanese dining style where guests are seated at a counter facing an open kitchen, and the chef prepares each dish in front of them, often after engaging in conversation to understand their preferences. The word kappo is derived from two kanji characters: katsu (割), meaning "to cut," and ho (烹), meaning "to cook." Together, they reflect the essence of this style—cutting and cooking, performed in full view of the guest.
Kappo dining typically includes both à la carte options and dishes crafted spontaneously from rare or seasonal ingredients delivered fresh each day. Chefs may also customize dishes based on individual requests. Many kappo restaurants—especially at the high end—offer multi-course tasting menus.
At ShoMon, we currently serve our menu in a course format, but we are gradually exploring more flexible offerings to better suit the tastes and expectations of our American guests.
What's the history of this type of approach?
While kappo originally referred to cooking more broadly, it evolved in the late 17th to 18th centuries—particularly in Osaka—into a refined dining style where chefs prepare and serve food directly in front of diners. It thrived within the merchant culture of the time, emphasizing seasonality, skill, and hospitality, often paired with sake.
In the late 19th century, as Western cuisine gained popularity, kappo played a vital role in preserving traditional Japanese culinary techniques. The style spread beyond urban centers and became recognized as a refined and elegant form of dining.
By the mid-20th century, more casual taishū kappo restaurants began to appear, making the experience more accessible, while high-end kappo establishments continued to emphasize tradition and craftsmanship. Today, counter-style kappo has grown in popularity, fostering direct interaction between chefs and guests, and continues to evolve as a uniquely Japanese expression of seasonality, artistry, and connection.
The amount of prep that goes into each service is impressive. What's the daily routine for each chef?
Our chefs begin prep work around 10:00 a.m., followed by a short break in the afternoon. Dinner service begins at 5:00 p.m. and typically runs until around 10:30 or 11:00 p.m.
Can you provide some background on the chef who's in charge of the dashi?
Our dashi is overseen by Assistant Head Chef Taka Murakami, who spent a decade training and working at a Michelin-starred kappo restaurant in Kyoto before joining our team.
How did you find this collection of talented chefs?
All of our chefs were introduced through personal referrals or professional recruiters. I personally conducted the final interviews for each of them.
Our current team includes:
What's the plan for expanding?
For now, we are focused on establishing and promoting the kappo concept through ShoMon in Seattle, with the goal of increasing awareness and appreciation across the U.S. Once we've built a strong foundation here, we plan to explore expansion through additional locations.
Because many ingredients are imported from Japan, what's the strategy for dealing with tariffs?
While the 10 percent Global Tariff has already taken effect, the 24 percent Reciprocal Tariff (applicable to Japan) has been temporarily suspended for 90 days. Given the uncertainty, we're not in a position to implement a definitive long-term strategy. Supplier responses vary widely, with many still determining their approach. For now, our priority is staying informed and maintaining a flexible internal framework that allows us to respond swiftly and effectively as the situation evolves.
What's your favorite item on the menu? And your favorite kappo-style restaurant in Japan?
We take immense pride in our dashi, which we believe to be among the finest in the world. Any dish at ShoMon that incorporates this dashi is one I hold in the highest regard. We are continuously refining our offerings to ensure that they resonate with our American guests and exceed their expectations.
As for kappo restaurants in Japan, there are countless exceptional ones—each with its own distinct character—so it's difficult to choose a single favorite. Through my past experiences and ongoing visits to kappo restaurants across Japan, I remain committed to refining a style that brings the most joy to our guests here.