Latest news with #Kappo
Time Out
09-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Time Out
Kappo reopened more refined, more ambitious (and closer to the star)
The light wood tones and red lights have vanished, along with the tables behind the counter and some of the informal charm. A new light contrasts with the black that now dominates the space, there's a new counter — even closer to the kitchen — and a fresh energy. Tiago Penão's Kappo has reopened in Cascais after two months of renovations. It's more elegant, refined, and hopefully closer to its goal: a Michelin star. 'I'm like a kid in a toy shop,' laughs Tiago Penão after another fully booked service — 12 seats at the counter. 'The feedback we've received has been great. People say we're really in a Kappo 2.0. It was a pretty cool upgrade. That was our goal and we're happy with it,' the chef proudly says, for whom two months were more than enough to develop a 'new restaurant'. 'This is the restaurant I've always imagined, with the concept I always envisioned, served exactly as I imagined.' Unlike before, this new Kappo only offers one seating. The aim is to serve all 12 guests at the same time, without rush or pressure to turn tables, as could happen since opening in 2021 — and even before Izakaya launched a year later, not far from here. 'That was always the plan, and now was the right time to implement it,' explains Tiago Penão. This was also made possible by Izakaya's success, which will open a second location in Príncipe Real later this year, and the addition of both restaurants to the Cook Book group portfolio, led by chef José Avillez and the Arié family. 'We believe we should bring something new every year, and this transformation had been planned for a year because we felt the restaurant was a bit tired, so to speak. We wanted to do an extreme makeover, almost,' he adds. The transformation was entrusted to architect João Tiago Aguiar, who also designed LOCO, Alexandre Silva's Michelin-starred restaurant. 'Our idea was for the kitchen to be the stage so that people focus on what they're eating and what we're preparing. That's why everything around is dark,' explains the chef, comparing it to the audience sitting in the shadows at the theatre while the show takes place. 'I don't like to say the space feels more luxurious, but it is certainly more comfortable and nicer to be in. As for the gastronomy, we haven't changed our concept or our offerings, only the way we serve. Gastronomically, we maintain our identity, but now we really have a bit more room to do a little more and better,' he sums up. 'That's always been the goal from the start, and now was the right time to put it into practice.' Guests are invited to arrive a little before 8pm (or 1pm on Saturdays and Sundays when they also serve lunch) so that, even if service happens simultaneously, the personalised attention doesn't disappear. Sometimes from outside the counter, sometimes from inside, where front-of-house and kitchen intersect so often. 'The idea is to serve everyone at the same time, but we can also adapt a bit to each person's pace, and we have tricks within the menu in case there's any timing mismatch,' Penão explains confidently in this new phase. 'We really like trying to practice Omotenashi, which is the Japanese art of impeccable hospitality – anticipating unspoken wishes. Now we have time for that, and increasingly, we'll be focusing on it and improving in this area,' he adds. The menu (€135) is slightly larger and follows the same line that has defined Kappo so far, drawing inspiration from the Japanese omakase tradition, where trust in the chef and their team is absolutely essential. The dishes aren't announced, only the techniques. 'Kappo cuisine in Japan is always divided by several cooking techniques – raw, grilled, fried, boiled, marinated… That's the structure of the menu and it will never change,' he assures. With 11 courses, there are classics that cannot disappear, such as the toro roll (tuna belly) wrapped in nori seaweed with caviar right at the start, or the Edomae-style nigiris towards the end. But there are also surprising new additions, like the crunchy snack made with mochi dough combining caviar and monkfish liver, or the traditional shabu-shabu where thin slices of wagyu are cooked with vegetables in a kombu dashi broth. 'I don't think it's more difficult [to serve the whole counter at once], I think it's more interesting for us and more challenging in the way we prepare things. There are dishes we can make individually, and others that are made for everyone at the same time, like the shabu-shabu. It's also more rewarding because we have time to talk to people, ask if they liked it or not, and that's where the front-of-house team really comes into its own. It's always been the goal to do things this way. We couldn't at first, but now we can,' Tiago Penão reflects. Without rushing, but with a very clear goal, and while avoiding the pressure that comes with it, the chef feels free and with more space to create. 'I've always had complete freedom to create, I've always been comfortable, but now we simply have more time,' he explains. He adds: 'With the kind of service we're doing, it's easier to introduce things that are more complex.' Does that mean Kappo is better today? Tiago Penão has no doubts. 'We've managed to raise the quality of what we deliver a bit, and we can offer Japanese cooking techniques that aren't seen very often.' At the end of the meal, another new touch: coffee is also a moment in itself – or matcha for those who prefer – served alongside petit fours and a poem, in true Japanese style. 'We wanted to improve the final moment, so people could relax and linger in the restaurant afterwards,' explains the head chef. 'We thought of many things we could give guests to take home as a keepsake, and we felt a poem was the nicest and most original way to do that. I also really love matcha – I drink it every day. We wouldn't claim to perform a full matcha ceremony because that's highly complex, but we like to serve it with quality,' he adds, highlighting the 'greater effort to bring Kappo even closer to Japan.' 'Always keeping our identity because none of us are Japanese, and we like to bring a bit of our own experiences and backgrounds, while never disrespecting Japanese cuisine.' Back in March, when announcing the restaurant's temporary closure, the chef wasn't shy with his warning: '[Kappo] is really going to level up, both gastronomically and in terms of the customer experience.' Two months on, the results are clear. 'The goal from day one – and it's always been clear on our part – is the Michelin star. We're putting everything on the line. It's all or nothing,' he jokes, with the lightness of someone who knows the only way to achieve it is through focused, respectful teamwork, as has been the case. 'I owe a lot to my team as well, so I'm living the dream.' Avenida Emídio Navarro 23A (Cascais). 21 484 4122. Wed-Fri 20.00, Sat-Sun 13.00, 20.00
Forbes
30-05-2025
- Business
- Forbes
ShoMan in Seattle Makes A Convincing Case For Kappo-Style Dining
Most Japanese food fans have experienced omakase, a lavish multi-course menu determined by the chef. Kappo-style sushi restaurants amp up that approach by adding luxe creations including elegant dashi-based preparations made while guests watch. Here's how one restaurant owner is determined to take this approach to a bigger stage. Yoshi Yokoyama has been in the business of making seafood lovers swoon for years, dating back to the opening of I Love Sushi in the Seattle suburb of Bellevue back in the 1980s. When sushi legend Shiro Kashiba left his namesake restaurant to rock and roll at a new spot at the Pike Place Market, he turned his original operation over to Yokoyama. Last fall, the enterprising entrepreneur launched the stylish ShoMan just a few blocks away. Its configuration – with 14 seats wrapping around the busy kitchen – sets the tone for the elaborate meal. The chefs are the stars, diners the appreciative audience. The feast isn't fussy, though. There's plenty of conversation playing out between bites and admiring mmmm's. Yokoyama recalled what spoke to him about this approach to dining during a recent interview via email. For those who aren't familiar, how would you describe Kappo-style dining? Kappo is a traditional Japanese dining style where guests are seated at a counter facing an open kitchen, and the chef prepares each dish in front of them, often after engaging in conversation to understand their preferences. The word kappo is derived from two kanji characters: katsu (割), meaning "to cut," and ho (烹), meaning "to cook." Together, they reflect the essence of this style—cutting and cooking, performed in full view of the guest. Kappo dining typically includes both à la carte options and dishes crafted spontaneously from rare or seasonal ingredients delivered fresh each day. Chefs may also customize dishes based on individual requests. Many kappo restaurants—especially at the high end—offer multi-course tasting menus. At ShoMon, we currently serve our menu in a course format, but we are gradually exploring more flexible offerings to better suit the tastes and expectations of our American guests. What's the history of this type of approach? While kappo originally referred to cooking more broadly, it evolved in the late 17th to 18th centuries—particularly in Osaka—into a refined dining style where chefs prepare and serve food directly in front of diners. It thrived within the merchant culture of the time, emphasizing seasonality, skill, and hospitality, often paired with sake. In the late 19th century, as Western cuisine gained popularity, kappo played a vital role in preserving traditional Japanese culinary techniques. The style spread beyond urban centers and became recognized as a refined and elegant form of dining. By the mid-20th century, more casual taishū kappo restaurants began to appear, making the experience more accessible, while high-end kappo establishments continued to emphasize tradition and craftsmanship. Today, counter-style kappo has grown in popularity, fostering direct interaction between chefs and guests, and continues to evolve as a uniquely Japanese expression of seasonality, artistry, and connection. The amount of prep that goes into each service is impressive. What's the daily routine for each chef? Our chefs begin prep work around 10:00 a.m., followed by a short break in the afternoon. Dinner service begins at 5:00 p.m. and typically runs until around 10:30 or 11:00 p.m. Can you provide some background on the chef who's in charge of the dashi? Our dashi is overseen by Assistant Head Chef Taka Murakami, who spent a decade training and working at a Michelin-starred kappo restaurant in Kyoto before joining our team. How did you find this collection of talented chefs? All of our chefs were introduced through personal referrals or professional recruiters. I personally conducted the final interviews for each of them. Our current team includes: What's the plan for expanding? For now, we are focused on establishing and promoting the kappo concept through ShoMon in Seattle, with the goal of increasing awareness and appreciation across the U.S. Once we've built a strong foundation here, we plan to explore expansion through additional locations. Because many ingredients are imported from Japan, what's the strategy for dealing with tariffs? While the 10 percent Global Tariff has already taken effect, the 24 percent Reciprocal Tariff (applicable to Japan) has been temporarily suspended for 90 days. Given the uncertainty, we're not in a position to implement a definitive long-term strategy. Supplier responses vary widely, with many still determining their approach. For now, our priority is staying informed and maintaining a flexible internal framework that allows us to respond swiftly and effectively as the situation evolves. What's your favorite item on the menu? And your favorite kappo-style restaurant in Japan? We take immense pride in our dashi, which we believe to be among the finest in the world. Any dish at ShoMon that incorporates this dashi is one I hold in the highest regard. We are continuously refining our offerings to ensure that they resonate with our American guests and exceed their expectations. As for kappo restaurants in Japan, there are countless exceptional ones—each with its own distinct character—so it's difficult to choose a single favorite. Through my past experiences and ongoing visits to kappo restaurants across Japan, I remain committed to refining a style that brings the most joy to our guests here.
Time Out
07-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Time Out
Six chefs to watch out for in Cascais
Since 2021, Tiago Penão, a local from the area, has been a rising star in Cascais' culinary scene. That was when he opened Kappo in the heart of the town, a name that translates to "cut and cook." Ambitious yet laid-back, it's a high-end Japanese restaurant that centres on the intimate connection between the chef and those seated at the counter. While you can choose à la carte, the ideal experience is to surrender to the omakase menu, where the chef takes you on an authentic journey to Japan with the finest ingredients. And it's not a cliché – each course is accompanied by a perfect blend of explanation and storytelling. Every dish is served in bespoke crockery, like a custom-made frame designed to surround a work of art. Although the Japanese tradition is woven throughout Kappo's concept – which has been such a success that it quickly led to a younger sibling, the Japanese tavern Izakaya, run by Tiago's older brother – the stories and experiences of the team who work there daily also shine through on the plate. For instance, Manu prepares a Venezuelan dessert that she used to share with her grandmother – a three-milk cake that's then charred with Japanese charcoal. At Christmas, they make rabanadas. While Japan is always the focus, they also leave room for other explorations, further enriching the personality of the restaurant. Before Kappo, Tiago Penão worked at Midori, at the Penha Longa Resort in Sintra, the first Japanese restaurant in Portugal to earn a Michelin star – many believe he will soon be joining the list of Michelin-awarded chefs himself.
