A Fulfilling Feast Of Refined Flavours: What To Expect At Comorin Mumbai

NDTV

a day ago

Comorin, Gurugram's acclaimed all-day restaurant and bar, has opened doors at its second location: a swanky new space in Lower Parel, Mumbai. Situated in Nilaya Anthology within Peninsula Corporate Park, the establishment is here to dazzle the city with its redefined regional Indian plates and award-winning drinks programme. Comorin is a brand by EHV International, a part of the renowned Old World Hospitality Group, which includes restaurants such as Indian Accent, Hosa, and Fireback. The kitchen is led by Chef Dhiraj Dargan, while the bar is helmed by celebrated mixologist Varun Sharma.
Comorin Mumbai's striking layout and design elements are the work of Rishiv Khattar (a creative director with the company), London's Russell Sage Studio and Gurugram-based Incubis Consultants. They have established a slightly different identity in terms of colours (as compared to the original location). However, they have followed the overall ethos of Comorin, along with the inclusion of the signature long communal table and deconstructed bar. At the back of the restaurant is a door to the serene Orangery at Nilaya, a small indoor garden with a skylit roof.
Comorin's menu is inspired by traditional delicacies from different parts of India. It enhances regional comfort foods with soft, clever never nudges - it doesn't seek to overhaul the familiar completely, nor does it overwhelm diners with elaborate combinations. The first few dishes we happened to order epitomised Comorin's approach to food well. The zingy Lemon Gunpowder Idlis, topped with crunchy cashews, arrived with pretty quenelles of three chutneys at the side. The wholesome Smoked Kathal Galawat delighted us with its meat-like softness. The Tawa Crab Anda Bhurji gave a fun seafood twist to a breakfast staple beloved in this city, and the crisp pieces of Chilli Butter Toast made for the perfect pairing. The message here was clear: there is space for elements of experimentation, but that is not its sole focus.
Talking about the process of adapting Comorin's menu for Mumbai, Chef Dhiraj Dragan revealed, "One of the key challenges was accounting for the city's tropical climate - the high humidity, monsoon rains, and the way these factors influence appetite and dining preferences. We aimed to create dishes that felt lighter, fresher, and more in tune with the weather. Another important consideration was the significant vegetarian clientele in Mumbai. We ensured the menu reflected this by developing dishes that weren't just meat-free, but were equally exciting and flavour-forward." We saw part of this reflected in plates like the Dahi Batata Puri with Kachalu, which melts in the mouth and leaves behind a tinge of a fiery sensation derived from an ingredient unexpected in the domain of chaat. Among the non-vegetarian small plates, we also enjoyed the Fried Chicken Bun with Kolkata Mustard and Bheja Fry with Khasta Roti. Whatever their origin, the spotlight was shone on robust flavours expertly and unapologetically.
Comorin Gurugram has won multiple accolades for its beverage programme, and we are glad Mumbai can now relish its signature sips. Comorin's cocktails are not only a reflection of technical prowess, but also of the freshness of flavours derived from its various liqueurs, syrups and other drink components that are all made in-house. While we found the Nashik Spritz (Gin, Green Apple, Limoncello, White Wine and Ginger Ale) refreshing, it is the gorgeously smooth Walnut Sour that we would definitely return for. The latter is made by infusing bourbon whiskey with walnuts using a pressure infusion technique. Later, the whiskey is shaken with house-made cinnamon & pineapple oleo saccharum, a touch of apricot and a saline solution. Comorin is also renowned for its Sous Vide cocktails, wherein Varun Sharma adapts the culinary technique generally used for slow-cooking food to create flavour-forward drinks. He explains how he does so: "We take a double shot of spirit (Gin, Tequila, or Vodka) and add the selected ingredients into a sous vide bag, which is then vacuum sealed and placed in a sous vide bath at a set temperature for 90 seconds. After the infusion, the bag is given a 20-second cold bath to chill it instantly. We then pour the liquid directly into a stem glass, top it with tonic or carbonated water, and garnish it with the same fresh ingredients used in the infusion." The method is seemingly simple yet genius. From this section, we tasted and loved the Vodka with Orange and Peach.
Comorin also has an approachable wine programme led by Kevin Rodrigues. Every wine on the list (which featured over 50 labels from around the world) is available by the glass. If you're not drinking alcohol, you'll be happy to know that the zero-proof section is far from an afterthought here. Rather, it features a wide range of refined drinks enjoyable in their own right - rather than just being bland versions of cocktails. We suggest starting with something light, like the creamy Coconut Licuado made by blending coconut water and coconut flesh (malai). Next, move to a more layered concoction like the Pomegranate Salted Shrub. Don't miss the opportunity to try the House Sodas too. We sampled all of them, and it was difficult to pick a single favourite. While the Raspberry & Thyme is sure to be a crowd-pleaser, the Saffron Ginger Ale must not be overlooked. In effect, thanks to their superb blend of sweetness, aroma and fizziness, these drinks redefined what a soda means. As with their alcoholic counterparts, technique reigns supreme here.
Coming back to the food, note that Comorin's menu has large plates as well as "extra large plates." New offerings like the Amrud Ki Subzi, Aam Ki Kadhi, Keema Kofta Curry, Himachali Cha Gosht, and Paranthe Wali Gali are available only at the Mumbai outpost. We tried some old favourites, including the Comorin Dal Tadka with Chilli Mint Laccha Paratha and the Banana Leaf Bhetki with Chilli Coconut Masala. We can see the dal (featuring five types of lentils) becoming a fast favourite with the corporate diners this restaurant is bound to attract. On the other hand, the soft and spicy Bhetki exudes coastal leisure - we took our time relishing it with rice. As for desserts, note that, except for the famous Cheeni Malai Toast, all are new additions. We highly recommend the innovative and scrumptious Comorin Cassata, with layers of vanilla, mango and jamun ice cream.
The seriousness of Comorin's dedication to quality is balanced with the fun of simply delicious food, resulting in a meal that couldn't help but be memorable. It's always reassuring to realise that the question isn't if we're going to revisit a new restaurant like this, but when we're going to come back. Have you made your reservations yet?
Address: Comorin@NilayaAnthology, Peninsula Point, Peninsula Corporate Park, Ganpatrao Kadam Marg, Lower Parel(West), Mumbai.