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The Hindu
27-05-2025
- Entertainment
- The Hindu
Comorin lands in Mumbai with a tasting tour of the country
For years, the shorthand for dining out in Indian metros meant calling in a Thai curry, picking pasta over paratha, or playing it safe with butter chicken and naan. It was not that we did not love our local food, it is just that certain flavours, usually North Indian or vaguely 'Mughlai,' dominated menus and imaginations alike. But that is changing. Slowly, then suddenly, regional Indian cuisine has slipped into the spotlight. What was once siloed to homes, festivals, or specific communities is now making its way to small plates and chef's tasting menus. This culinary curiosity has opened new doors, especially for a generation of diners. After earning a devoted following in Gurugram for its elevated take on regional Indian comfort food, Comorin has finally made its Mumbai debut at Nilaya Anthology, the new concept store by Asian Paints that spotlights design and home decor in Lower Parel. It marks the arrival of a philosophy that honours India's street-side staples and regional gems, all through a distinctly contemporary lens. Operated by EHV International (part of Old World Hospitality), Comorin has carved a reputation for doing something quite rare: making diners nostalgic and intrigued at the same time. Brand Chef Dhiraj Dargan draws from the country's diverse culinary map to create a menu that feels both city-specific and universally comforting. And it is not just the food that invites exploration. Varun Sharma, EHV International's head of bars, brings his award-winning cocktail craftsmanship to Mumbai too. The bar programme continues Comorin's tradition of innovation with sous-vide infusions, cocktails on tap, and an array of house-made sodas and beverages. The space Building on the original Gurugram outpost, the Mumbai edition is not a replica but a re-interpretation — rooted in brand identity, yet sensitively tailored for its new home. London-based Russell Sage Studio, in collaboration with creative director Rishiv Khattar of EHV, carries forward the design language with a renewed eye. The palette deepens, quite literally — blushes and deep reds that formed accents in Gurugram now take centrestage here, enveloping the space in warmth and tactility. Materials are the quiet protagonists: Indian wood, richly grained; tactile fabrics; metal finishes with a burnished sheen; tiles that subtly segment the space into zones. From the experimental, almost disjointed bar at the entrance, communal tables extend inward, guiding guests through a mix of seating arrangements until they reach a tucked-away room at the back — part retreat, part reveal. The food There is something delightfully rogue about a menu that gives you bheja fry with khasta roti, then turns around and hands you a chocolate dessert with a Monaco biscuit crumble. Comorin's Mumbai chapter is indulgent, but with restraint. Take the Smoked Kathal Galawat. It is smoky, yes, but not heavy. The jackfruit does not try to impersonate meat — it holds its own, bolstered by the sweetness of mango chilli chutney that arrives like a sharp little side note. Then comes the Kalari Cheese Bun, a gooey nod to Jammu, offset with sweet chilli onions that flirt rather than overwhelm. Andhra Gongura Chicken served with crisp shards of murukku is another standout — punchy, tart, crunchy, and deeply South Indian without needing to over-explain itself. Three Pepper Chicken Tikka with peanuts and green onions leans more toward bar snack, the kind you keep nibbling between conversations. The Tawa Chicken Liver lands bold and iron-rich, but softened cleverly with a messy, spicy tomato toast that is like a chaser in solid form. There is also a deep-seated love for offal here: the Bheja Fry is silkier than expected, wrapped in nostalgia and a crisp roti. Meanwhile, the Green Chilli Prawns with Mizoram black rice feel like a chef's palate-cleanser — subtle heat, textural play, and a slight whisper of smoke. On the heavier side of the spectrum: Champaran Mutton, all slow-cooked drama and sattu-stuffed parantha on the side, and a Murgh Yakhni Pulao that is not too rich. Then there is the Banana Leaf Bhetki in a chilli coconut masala that demands finger-eating reverence. Dessert does not let up. The Cheeni Malai Toast is both cheeky and comforting — old-school bakery meets honeycomb and a well-placed crunch. But it is the Comorin Cassata, with jamun, mulberry, and salted chocolate, that tastes like a memory you cannot quite place. There are subtle nods to Maharashtra too — think a reimagined dahi batata puri, and a comforting pao bhaji with caramelised onion pao. Rohit Khattar, founder-chairman of EHV International, notes that the Mumbai menu features around 10–15 additional dishes tailored to the city. But it does raise the question — was it all necessary? The menu could have been leaner, perhaps with a handful of city-specific staples and a well-curated tasting menu to tie it all together. That said, the flexibility here is guests can request tasting portions of large plates, allowing for a more exploratory, less overwhelming experience. The drinks Comorin's cocktail list walks the tightrope between botanical nerdiness and pure, unfussy pleasure. The Fennel Paloma lingers in memory long after the glass is empty. Fennel-infused tequila meets a grapefruit-dill-fennel oleo shrub, rounded out with fresh grapefruit juice and bubbles. It is refreshing, vegetal, and citrus-bright. The Mango and Fig Highball is familiar yet fresh. Choose your base — gin or vodka — but the real story is in the cordial: mango's tropical lushness grounded by fig, topped with carbonated water and a light dusting of gunpowder mix that adds an earthy, almost smoky note. The Nashik Spritz leans softer but does not skimp on flavour. A crisp gin base mingles with green apple and Comorin's house-made limoncello, then gets lengthened with Nashik white wine and a hit of ginger. It's India's answer to the Venetian spritz —zesty, lightly spiced, and unmistakably local. The cocktails are companions to a menu that is already pushing the boundaries of comfort and curiosity. A meal (including alcohol) for two costs ₹4,000 plus taxes. Address: Peninsula Corporate Park, Peninsula Point, At Nilaya Anthology, Ganpatrao Kadam Marg, Lower Parel West, Mumbai 400013
Time of India
26-05-2025
- Business
- Time of India
Comorin Restaurant Launches in Mumbai: A New Culinary Destination, ET HospitalityWorld
Delhi NCR's Comorin restaurant offering creative regional Indian cuisine with an innovative beverage program, is set to open in Mumbai at Nilaya Anthology. Rohit Khattar, founder Chairman, EHV International, says 'We are delighted to announce the opening of Comorin Mumbai at Nilaya Anthology, an incredible design destination in Lower Parel. Comorin is a relaxed space that encourages communal dining and welcomes guests to drop in at any time for a meal, coffee, cocktails, and conversations. We hope Mumbai will embrace Comorin as warmly as Gurugram has.' Amit Syngle, CEO, Asian Paints, says 'With the launch of Comorin, we're proud to have one of the best hospitality brands housed within Nilaya Anthology. This addition to our offerings makes Anthology a destination for one more reason and completes the family of services at an already unique space in Mumbai. At Asian Paints, the customer is always at the heart of everything we create. Nilaya Anthology is an exceptional design experience and now with a food and beverage brand like Comorin residing here, Nilaya Anthology becomes a truly one-stop destination.' Advt Comorin is operated by EHV International, a part of the Old-World Hospitality group. The original concept was created by Rishiv Khattar , a director with the company, and designed by Russell Sage Studio, a leading London-based design practice. They collaborated again for Comorin, Mumbai, on a design that is intended to create a sense of journey as guests explore the restaurant and experience it through the day and till late night. With architectural design by Incubis Consultants, Comorin opens into The Orangery at Nilaya, making for an exceptional outdoor extension that is truly unique in the Dargan, brand chef, Comorin, has designed a menu of comfort dishes and unusual food combinations from across the country. The menu features some of Comorin's signature dishes as well as some new ones especially curated for Mumbai, said an EHV International International's head of bars and mixologist, Varun Sharma's bar will feature craft cocktails , including Comorin's trademark sous vide infusion counter. There shall be cocktails on tap, and a unique selection of house-made beverages and sodas, it of wines at EHV International, Kevin Rodrigues, aims to establish a unique and approachable wine program centred around accessibility and exploration. Featuring an impressive selection of over 50 diverse wines, all available by the glass, the program invites guests to embark on a personalised wine journey without the commitment of a full bottle. By , ETHospitalityWorld Join the community of 2M+ industry professionals Subscribe to our newsletter to get latest insights & analysis. Download ETHospitalityWorld App Get Realtime updates Save your favourite articles Scan to download App
