Comorin lands in Mumbai with a tasting tour of the country

The Hindu

27-05-2025

For years, the shorthand for dining out in Indian metros meant calling in a Thai curry, picking pasta over paratha, or playing it safe with butter chicken and naan. It was not that we did not love our local food, it is just that certain flavours, usually North Indian or vaguely 'Mughlai,' dominated menus and imaginations alike. But that is changing.
Slowly, then suddenly, regional Indian cuisine has slipped into the spotlight. What was once siloed to homes, festivals, or specific communities is now making its way to small plates and chef's tasting menus. This culinary curiosity has opened new doors, especially for a generation of diners. After earning a devoted following in Gurugram for its elevated take on regional Indian comfort food, Comorin has finally made its Mumbai debut at Nilaya Anthology, the new concept store by Asian Paints that spotlights design and home decor in Lower Parel. It marks the arrival of a philosophy that honours India's street-side staples and regional gems, all through a distinctly contemporary lens.
Operated by EHV International (part of Old World Hospitality), Comorin has carved a reputation for doing something quite rare: making diners nostalgic and intrigued at the same time. Brand Chef Dhiraj Dargan draws from the country's diverse culinary map to create a menu that feels both city-specific and universally comforting. And it is not just the food that invites exploration. Varun Sharma, EHV International's head of bars, brings his award-winning cocktail craftsmanship to Mumbai too. The bar programme continues Comorin's tradition of innovation with sous-vide infusions, cocktails on tap, and an array of house-made sodas and beverages.
The space
Building on the original Gurugram outpost, the Mumbai edition is not a replica but a re-interpretation — rooted in brand identity, yet sensitively tailored for its new home. London-based Russell Sage Studio, in collaboration with creative director Rishiv Khattar of EHV, carries forward the design language with a renewed eye. The palette deepens, quite literally — blushes and deep reds that formed accents in Gurugram now take centrestage here, enveloping the space in warmth and tactility.
Materials are the quiet protagonists: Indian wood, richly grained; tactile fabrics; metal finishes with a burnished sheen; tiles that subtly segment the space into zones. From the experimental, almost disjointed bar at the entrance, communal tables extend inward, guiding guests through a mix of seating arrangements until they reach a tucked-away room at the back — part retreat, part reveal.
The food
There is something delightfully rogue about a menu that gives you bheja fry with khasta roti, then turns around and hands you a chocolate dessert with a Monaco biscuit crumble. Comorin's Mumbai chapter is indulgent, but with restraint.
Take the Smoked Kathal Galawat. It is smoky, yes, but not heavy. The jackfruit does not try to impersonate meat — it holds its own, bolstered by the sweetness of mango chilli chutney that arrives like a sharp little side note. Then comes the Kalari Cheese Bun, a gooey nod to Jammu, offset with sweet chilli onions that flirt rather than overwhelm.
Andhra Gongura Chicken served with crisp shards of murukku is another standout — punchy, tart, crunchy, and deeply South Indian without needing to over-explain itself. Three Pepper Chicken Tikka with peanuts and green onions leans more toward bar snack, the kind you keep nibbling between conversations. The Tawa Chicken Liver lands bold and iron-rich, but softened cleverly with a messy, spicy tomato toast that is like a chaser in solid form.
There is also a deep-seated love for offal here: the Bheja Fry is silkier than expected, wrapped in nostalgia and a crisp roti. Meanwhile, the Green Chilli Prawns with Mizoram black rice feel like a chef's palate-cleanser — subtle heat, textural play, and a slight whisper of smoke.
On the heavier side of the spectrum: Champaran Mutton, all slow-cooked drama and sattu-stuffed parantha on the side, and a Murgh Yakhni Pulao that is not too rich. Then there is the Banana Leaf Bhetki in a chilli coconut masala that demands finger-eating reverence.
Dessert does not let up. The Cheeni Malai Toast is both cheeky and comforting — old-school bakery meets honeycomb and a well-placed crunch. But it is the Comorin Cassata, with jamun, mulberry, and salted chocolate, that tastes like a memory you cannot quite place.
There are subtle nods to Maharashtra too — think a reimagined dahi batata puri, and a comforting pao bhaji with caramelised onion pao. Rohit Khattar, founder-chairman of EHV International, notes that the Mumbai menu features around 10–15 additional dishes tailored to the city. But it does raise the question — was it all necessary? The menu could have been leaner, perhaps with a handful of city-specific staples and a well-curated tasting menu to tie it all together. That said, the flexibility here is guests can request tasting portions of large plates, allowing for a more exploratory, less overwhelming experience.
The drinks
Comorin's cocktail list walks the tightrope between botanical nerdiness and pure, unfussy pleasure.
The Fennel Paloma lingers in memory long after the glass is empty. Fennel-infused tequila meets a grapefruit-dill-fennel oleo shrub, rounded out with fresh grapefruit juice and bubbles. It is refreshing, vegetal, and citrus-bright.
The Mango and Fig Highball is familiar yet fresh. Choose your base — gin or vodka — but the real story is in the cordial: mango's tropical lushness grounded by fig, topped with carbonated water and a light dusting of gunpowder mix that adds an earthy, almost smoky note.
The Nashik Spritz leans softer but does not skimp on flavour. A crisp gin base mingles with green apple and Comorin's house-made limoncello, then gets lengthened with Nashik white wine and a hit of ginger. It's India's answer to the Venetian spritz —zesty, lightly spiced, and unmistakably local.
The cocktails are companions to a menu that is already pushing the boundaries of comfort and curiosity.
A meal (including alcohol) for two costs ₹4,000 plus taxes. Address: Peninsula Corporate Park, Peninsula Point, At Nilaya Anthology, Ganpatrao Kadam Marg, Lower Parel West, Mumbai 400013